INNOVATIVE đ§ Off Grid Water System IN A VAN đ§!!! ProPex, Gray/Fresh Water Tanks, Electronic Drain
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 4. 07. 2024
- This is a detailed video about how to build a self-contained off-grid water system in a van (also works for RV's, boats, and tiny homes). We start off with the basics on fresh water, gray water, and black water and work our way up to building the entire water/plumbing system. This particular system uses a lot of innovative components, the most notable of which is the Propex/Uponor/Pex-A tubing... this stuff is INSANE! I also show some specialized space-saving water tanks, electronic ball valves and other innovative water system tech.
Product Links:
- 32 Gallon Over Wheel Well Water Tank (fits most vans): vanlandstore.com/products/32-...
- 20, 22, 24, and 30 Gallon Over Wheel Well Tanks (search "water tank"): vanlandstore.com/?ref=10vt82zdo0
- Spare Tire Water Tank (Sprinter vans): vanlandstore.com/products/21-...
- Clearsource Water Filter: amzn.to/34o9b4N
- Shurflo 4048 Water Pump: amzn.to/3uiKJN2
- Accumulator: amzn.to/3fiQTIA
- Electronic ball valve: amzn.to/3bThud3
- Propex (uponor) expansion tool: amzn.to/2SlttcB
- ProPex (uponor) Blue tubing: amzn.to/34epsJx
- ProPex (uponor) Red tubing: cant find link... search google
- Propex (uponor) expansion rings: amzn.to/3zHsqE2
- Propex (uponor) 90 degree elbow: amzn.to/3ujn8vx
- Propex (uponor) three-way T fitting: amzn.to/3bP7j9u
- Propex (uponor) ball valve: amzn.to/3hRSzdL
- Propex (uponor) to npt (pipe) male adapter: amzn.to/3Ewfrui
- Propex (uponor) to npt (pipe) female adapter: amzn.to/3USSdUr
- Water Level Sensor: amzn.to/3oPY9Pd
- Water Level Gauge: amzn.to/34ioI6g
- Plumbers tape (blue monster): amzn.to/3ulewVh
- Flexible PVC (spa tubing) for grey tank: amzn.to/3fHZIuB
- 1/2 Flexible ID Vinyl Tubing: amzn.to/3fJoLNJ
- Isotherm slim square water heater: pantherrvproducts.com/isother...
- water heater timer: amzn.to/3hXuwKv
Timestamps:
0:00 - 1:05 Intro
1:05 - 4:20 Prep Work: Drilling Holes & Mounting Stuff
4:20 - 9:03 Pipe & Fittings Overview
9:03 - 11:30 Propex (Uponor) Overview & Demo
11:30 - 12:40 Fresh Tank Gravity Drain
12:40 - 16:30 Hot & Cold Fresh Water Plumbing
16:30 - 18:30 Fresh Water Tank Breathing Vent
18:30 - 23:20 Gray Water Tank & Plumbing
23:20 - 25:30 Fresh Water Fill Inlet
25:30 - 27:20 Electrical Connections
27:20 - 33:40 Does it all work?
33:40 - 34:43 Conclusion
You need to insulate the pipes under the van with the gray foam pipe insulation.
You need a sink p-trap.
Next time you build the plumbing system, make sure you run your main lines first from front to back then splice into the main lines left and right as needed . This way you get maximum pressure and less restrictive flow with all the turns like that.
Iâd also install that water filter in an upward position under the sink.
Props to you for using the uponor wirsbo pipe and fittings. Pex A expands 3 times its size in case of freezing so perfect application for the van.
All this coming from a plumber that works with this stuff every dayđđ»
You do not need a sink p-trap for mobile applications like boats or vans where gravity takes care of the drainage. There is no chance of sewer smells if you're not connected to a sewer.
Am I considering one? Yup, for insect purposes, but definitely not needed.
I do not follow. Gravity takes care of the drainage in a house just as well. The problem is what grows on the pipe past the p-trap , bacteria will eventually start to smell even if you only put clean water through the drain.
We are licensed plumbers in Texas. On new construction, at the rough in stage when pipes have been under concrete for 2-3 weeks at this point, we uncover pipes to continue venting the fixtures and the water definitely smells.
Now imagine that in a van after a year or so on a well used gray tank.
No thank you. P trap is cheap insurance and takes 2 minutes to install.
@@andrealaphilippe5926 do you recommend your customers put some hydrogen peroxide down the drains. it seems to work well for me.
@@andrealaphilippe5926 I have seen someone adding a vent on the drain (air admitance valve) to avoid gulping in the sink. What do you think of this technique?
AAVâs are perfectly fine . They do go bad sometimes so you just need to keep an eye on them.
We use them all the time where traditional venting is not possible.
They have to be accessible so you canât put them behind walls.
My parents owned an ocean-voyage worthy sailboat. The plumbing didnât have anything pressurized. Their was a marine grade foot-operated pedal below the sink. Worked fantastic. Marine solutions are designed to optimize reliability. I think van builders should look at these types of solutions, rather than just motorhome solutions. Also, reducing potential failure points is just good engineering. Things to consider.
There are some vans that implement the foot pump to simplify their water system, but that's not really possible if you want an indoor shower like this build. The builds that use the foot pump tend to be budget builds that leave out an indoor shower in favor of outdoor units or using public showers. If you're going to include an indoor shower that needs electric components, it makes sense to use that for your sink as well for the convenience of having a faucet that functions like a normal house faucet.
@@sarabeth3016 My parentsâ sailboat had two indoor showers. They had pumps for each shower. But nothing was pressurized. The shower flow rate was controlled by the pump and not a pressurized line and a valve.
The main difference between marine and land vehicles is the fact that you might be at sea when a part breaks, and then what are you going to do? (hence the priority on longevity for certain parts in boats) Vans and RVâs are on land and 99% of the time, are near civilization. OâSavage is building vans to sell to the 1%. Having a foot-pump isnât going to get you the $150-$200k heâs looking for. đ€đœ
@@dannysan1272 Perhaps you are correct. I wasnât aware OâSavage is in business so much, and not a DIYâer. Either way, Iâm sure his followers are DIYâers and are not so interested in $150k motorhomes. For me, building a van is to make it how I want it and to know how everything works so I can fix everything. Also to make it robust and rattle free. The last thing I want is a pre-made âmotorhomeâ van. I certainly donât want leaking plumbing fittings. In my house, I have copper pipes that are soldered together. Having many plastic fittings that are pressurized in my van just seems like a failure waiting to happen. What a mess that would be. So I bought a pump you use when you need water. My Westphalia and my Eurovan Camper both had non-pressurized systems and electric pumps for on-demand use. I didnât like the flow-rate (splatter) and noise of those. So Iâve opted for a high quality marine foot pump. It is an under-suggested solution on CZcams DIY videos, but I think people might be interested and made aware of this optionâs benefits.
@@swagonman oâsavage is definitely building these to sell. I entirely understand where youâre coming from, but the 1% have more money than brains and people like myself and Savage know this, and want to take their money. Again, from a utility standpoint, a foot pump is the way to go for certain situations. Iâve used one for 9 months in my first van I built. Itâs ok but itâs nothing to write home about. I just bought pro-pex fittings with the Milwaukee pro pex tool to install all my plumbing, and Iâll report back to you after dozens of hours of testing as to how they hold up. Iâm convinced with the research Iâve done, that pex will hold up fine in these rv/camper van builds.
Excellent video! For those doing a similar setup, make sure if you use clear vinyl as part of your drinking water system, that you use NSF food grade vinyl. If you don't, you'll get a really funky taste and smell in your water system.
Thanks for the shout out to the two women who watch your channel - yay!
Make that 3 women!!! 67 yr old women that's building a lovely sprinter. See you on the road.
Jan
me 4!
Holla
1. Those filters should be mounted vertically.
2. Use some hangers and route differently , you have pipes wrapping your filters etc
3. You went with a indoor tank to avoid freezing, then proceeded to run water lines through the floor and outside. Those will freeze.
4. Can that hot water tank and water pump be mounted in whatever position. Usually they have a specific orientation.
5. All those checks are totally unnecessary especially on the tank vent line. Should have a gravity water fill on the side of the van which has a vent connection built in. That vent should be uninhabited. Road debris would never make its way up that line, and you have a sediment filter and multi stage filter system of it somehow did
6. Should have a separate line tâd in for when you are hooked to city that bypasses the tank. City pressure will almost always be more pressure than that pump produces and that saves you from using your pump and battery power. Gravity feed fills tank when your off grid and you use pump. When you hook up your city fill it runs through the filters and directly to your faucet shower etc bypassing the pump. This saves your pump from needing to run, saves power, and offers redundancy in case your pump ever fails you can still hook up to city water and use your components
Thank you !
City pressure here is 80 PSI. Protect your tank from that with a pressure reducer fitting.
Smart observations.
thank you. was going absolutely insane watching this; as you noted. good constructive critcism
Don't forget about no p-trap on the sink. Even if it is just gray water, it's eventually going to allow some foul smells.coming up the sink
Every time I watch a Savage video I get pumped to start building mah van!! Can't wait and really appreciate all the videos and instructions.. and also user comments to help even further. Going down my van build rabbit hole is most definitely my happy place! Thank you!
Yours is the easiest to understand video on how the loop works. Great job, I appreciate it.
Such a joy learning and watching SOS content. Team Savage.
That water heater timer is a great idea. I'm stealing that. Don't get me wrong, I'm stealing most of your ideas for my build, I just like that one the best.
Just don't steal the horizontal filters idea. Water/gunk is gonna go everywhere when those need changing.
@@pau1phi11ips You're a hero to me for doing this build so I can learn these things the easy way.
The timer is a great idea
Any issue with mounting the isotherm heater horizontally?
You could remove that little bit of vinyl tube between the pump and the accumulator (and all those right angle bends) and just run a line direct from the pump to filters. Then put a tee piece in that line and run a single pine to one side of the accumulator and simply blank off the other side of the accumulator. Water doesn't have to flow through the accumulator for it to do its job it just needs to be connected to the system! That would make your install much easier with a lot less joints for potential leaks down track.
For lack of a tri of 45 degree fittings, a 90 x 5 with a Big S curve creates a great amount of back pressure/flow resistance, water hammer when the pump turns on, vibration as unsupported and bouncing, etc. Too much "Get 'Er Done" time pressure and not enough experience/IQ.
Kudos to you. Detailed info on your build out process. Iâm gonna enjoy watching your whole series.
By far the best van build that I've seen. Huge props to you my friend.
I canât say enough about your instructive, and entertaining in many ways, videos!
just started a complete overhaul of a 1970's old caravan.......i love this video...you are a champion...thank you for this
Bad ass!
This has been a very detailed video, truly appreciated this. Thanks
Dude you crack me up, i love your energy and your videos !! They are so helpful - like seriously helpful (one of the few legit resources online) but also so entertaining
I am so grateful to you! I was not aware of these products, it helps a ton.
Superb video man! Well done đđŒ
You need to move your water tank drain ball valve into at the condition space !! If you leave it (ball valve) outside of the van it could freeze and try to freeze water line back to the fresh water because it is holding water back to the tank.By moving the ball valve inside the van 1st will keep it from freezing and 2nd it let all the water drain out of the line just like in a house up north. I hope this help you
Why? I just leave mine open in the winter. Am I missing something? The tank is under the van and the drain valve has to be on the bottom of the tank. How could you move it inside above the tank?
My brother always uses the pex a fittings for his plumbing jobs! They are much more popular now and sold in every home depot and lowes stores! I plan on using pexA on my own van build
Another great video. Only thing I recommend is adding a water pressure regulator. When filling water from city or a camp site, water pressure can some time be higher than that of your campervan. This can cause leak issues when water pressure is at or above 40 PSI
True. One should be in the drawer next to the proprietary water filling tube. (Don't loose that. Ever.)
love your videos you do a very great job on videos and van work transformation videos. awesome!!
great video! tons of useful information! thanks for sharing
Right on! Thanks so much man, this is so helpful!
I wanted to upgrade the plumbing in my caravan, this video cameout exactly as I needed it
Thanks! đ€
Thank you for making it ^_^
Excellent how to guide. Very much appreciated.
Great job! I canât wait for some winter van camping videos in sub-freezing temperatures.
That will reveal the downsides of outdoor plumbing.
Blue monster tape is freaking amazing. Great choice!
damn brah. i have been watching RV, schoolie conversion since covid 19. and by far, your channel is the top. i don' come up any comparable channel for real.
Thank you!
You make the best videos and easiest to follow
Another great and informative video! đ
Thank you đ€
Sweet van savage,
Iâm a plumber in San Francisco not far from you btwâŠ..anyway Just a heads up that those filters being mounted sideways is going to put a lot of pressure on those threads since I believe theyâre meant to be mounted vertically so I would definitely design a support to support the filters so theyâre not just hanging on those threads while theyâre full of water and the van is bumping around. đ
Cheers
Another great video! Thank you
You seem to have a fair amount of joints and 90 degree angles that are all potential leak points. There must be a way to bend Pex tubing and eliminate several 90 degree joints...just saying. Yes I know there are space restraints! Your videos are fantastic and I am amazed at the amount of detail! Thanks for sharing!
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS! LEARNING A LOT! THANK YOU THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!
Thank you for sharing your journey with me. I'm on mine and haven't begin to start the water system, but I'm learning lots, especially using a box cutter. Ouch! I personally think that there will serious drain issues because of the distance from entry to exit, and the drain is not gradual whereas the water has a long horizontal travel and dips.
That plumbing system is clean AF.
A HEPVO valve under sink and shower will reduce odors from gray tank burping back up through the drains. Works better than a ptrap in off road applications. Its basically a check valve.
What about an exhaust vent to prevent odor from the grey tank?
@@OldExodus a youtuber that goes by "bussymcbusface" installed a 9v fan to help eliminate odors. It's been over a year since i watched it but if you are interested in it it's found in their bus to rv conversion videos.
Perfect timing, gearing up to do my plumbing soon...
đ€
You were so funny for your system test! đ. Good humor!
This channel is so underrated, thanks for all the advices bro
Thank you!
Iâm going to build a 26 ft box truck and your video are like builder manual in smaller scale âThank youâ!
HepVo valves/drains for the sink and shower.
HepVo: Thinking same thing. Grey tanks can get stinky and there is no p-trap to keep the stink from coming up the sink drain.
Since this is his second van he may have a solution for that or sink stopper.
Also needs to prevent water sloshing from full grey tank into the shower pan.
Doubt the grey tank will ever get that full or stinky though given the electric ball valve setup.
HepVo is a must. Looked like there was room for this in his build.
Perfection as always!!! Super detail đ€. Question? The way the filters are mounted are you concerned when theyâre full of water that theyâre at risk of cracking especially when driving... Thanks for sharing đ€
I am wary of mobile, pressurized water systems but looks like you have it figured out! Certainly having it contained inside the van has some benefites. But for reliability and economy I'm gonna stick with gravity everything and my trusty Rainshower which provides solar heated water. It's pressurized with the same compressor I use to top off bike and truck tires.
Although the pump is "Self-priming to six vertical feet", it's better to have it as low as possible. This will allow more discharge pressure. For pumps that are not self-priming, they definitely should be low to allow use of the whole tank volume.
checkvalues for the winđ
Thank You so MUCH!đ
Just now watching this, July '22. The filters should have been hung vertically on the left where the accumulator is. Pump should feed the filters, that way changing the filters means very little spilled water. The accumulator should be after the filters, this helps prevent trash and junk from collecting in the accumulator, but most of all, you don't have it pushing pressure back toward the filters. I have some concern about the spare tire carrier wearing on the gray water tank. Not sure it that is an issue or not in the long run. You left out the link for the Aquor water inlet, I did find it with a search. Very neat idea and much better than trying to screw a hose onto an RV. Underneath you have pipes and wires coming out of a seal. One of the tubes passes thru the bundle of wires, which will make jacketing them with loom material or other covering difficult and not as elegant. I do want to say however, your van build is a thousand precent better than most including professional ones, and you video production is quite good, as you have it well scripted and no duhs, uhs, and such. You spit it out and move on, which is how it should be, someone can always go back and listen again if need be. Thanks very much for all your video efforts so others can learn from you.
Don't forget the vent for the drain, under the sink is a good place for it. They make a vent that does not let grey tank smells up and it dosn't need to vent up to the roof, just have it cap off under the counter top. CHEERS Steve h.
Enjoying your build!
Just a bump on several requests for suppliers of check valves, and wire/hose boots - would be great if you can add those to your supply list. Many thanks!
Great video. Can you post the link to the water inlet fill valve? I have been looking for something like this.
Finally firing up for plumbing in about two weeks (yeah, December is a great time to do water. . . NOT. ) this is SO much easier than your old plumbing vid - the Umpanor tool is going to choke me cost-wise this late in the build, but I think I'm going for it. . . . looks easier. . . . also excellent advice on gray water, although I'm keeping mine to a five gallon water carrier under the sink since the only shower will be out the back door. . . . also - very cool filling hardware. . . .
Try replacing a broken Umanor fitting after a day of offroading in the middle of nowhere. Try to find a $300 pipe fiting pump in Baja Ca.
Nice system. How do you catch the water when changing the 3-stage filter elements?
Thanks for all the video's and how to. We are going to start building our van soon. Cant wait to start. Do you plan on building more vans?
I'd add a UV filter after the sediment ones and also this connection between the pump and the accumulator tank will always be your weakest link. Offroading will make it loose and you'll get leaks there. Ask me how I know :) Best option is to look for pump and tank that have threaded connections.
Such an informative video breaking down the whole system. You made it look manageable. Wondering if a trap is necessary for sink and shower? I noticed you did not use one, so there must be a reasonđ
The grey water tank is vented.
Love youâre detailed versions. How did you seal the holes through the van floor where the drain pipe and vent exit ?
I have a van on order and have watched all your videos, thank you for all your suggestions and time in your videos. I was wandering if you were going to hook up your hot water heater to your engine cooling system to run through your hot water tank. I am debating the same thing. I am thinking going with the Bosch instead of the isotemp because I do not want to mess with the engine radiator. Are you just not hooking it up with the isotemp?
Have you thought about adding a gravity fill option for the fresh water tank? This would be useful if you carried some extra jugs of water.
@The Osborns not very âstealthyâ when everyone in the world knows what you got going on in vans and Sprinters
Hey Mr.707 thanks for all your videos, very helpful. what kind of undercoating did you use on your van?
I am a Plumber
Great job.Love the video.
Hey great video ! Just wanted to ask what plumbing adapter you used for the clear source filter to connect with pipes ?
Pliney the Elder makes it all good!
1) I do not envy you when you go to change those filters đ
2) Your sink drain doesn't have a trap to prevent smells. Which will probably be fine, just pointing it out.
@The Osborns Indeed. I don't have my filters mounted at all. I only use filtered water and drinking water to fill my tank, therefore my tank is always clean. Saves space in my van as well.
Lack of p trap means bad bad smells
.
I see you whippen out that pliny
Hello GREAT VIDEOS! I have been watching your videos since the beginning videos of your first build. I have a question about the Isotherm water heater heater. Are you attaching the radiator system thru you water heater and or just AC? thanks I have been using a Bosch electric 4 gallon water heater and it uses way to much electricity and was entertaining the of using a calorifier type of water heater. But I am concerned about running exposed radiator hoses under my Transit van. I noticed the Isotherm AC is rated 750 watts compared the Bosch water heater which is rated 1440 watts. Your thoughts? thanks
Vanlife and sleeping outdoors is the only thing I know and truly love with all my heart â€.
Be a minimalistic Nomad and help change the world and your life!!!
Hey Seven - I am using the same filters and water heater as you are and thinking through this setup. My question for you is, why would you want FILTERED water (hot or cold) for your shower? Or for your sink's cold tap for that matter (Will you do dishes with filtered water?). For my system, I am planning on piping filtered water directly to a separate faucet at the sink, while separate lines split off before the filters to feed the sink and shower's cold lines, and then of course to feed the water heater which will in turn feed hot water to both shower and faucet. By the way, I reference your videos all the time and have picked up a lot of ideas, so thanks for documenting all your work!
Or filter only the sink's drinking faucet.
The reason why people opt for whole-home water filtration systems I suppose. For me, it's because your skin is one of your largest organs, and when you're showering with warm water your pours are open and will absorb whatever contaminants are coming out of that shower head. Just something to consider.
Nice
Under your sink why didnât you use a p trap? Do you have issues with your grey water smelling?
Hey great video! Love how you break everything down. Great stuff bro. Question Where is the link for the fresh water fill inlet?
Very good video i will do the same in myvtrailer but with guide tracks on the wall -What was the solenoid you used for the 12v motor
Hiyas, Iâve got the clear source filter in the UK I want to put it in line with the plumbing system even though they recommend using it externally before the water goes into the tank. How is it working out being part of the plumbing system? Also finding it hard to find attachments here in the UK as itâs American GHT fittings. I need it to go to 12mm or 15mm⊠what fittings do you use and do you have a link for it! Thanks loving the videos so helpful
Nice!
đ€
Love your vids- thank you! For the accidental hole in the water tank, why not turn that into an inspection port?
Great job, but if this is going to be a running from Zombies Apocalyptic Vehicle, you're going to need a gravity fill inlet. When you're out in the middle of nowhere with your garden hose and no spigot....just a thought.
The waste lines for the sink and shower drain will drain freely if you use a vent. Studer vents work great.
Thoughts on installing the fresh water tank higher along with he fill hole pressure hole above the tank?
Hey! I saw this video back and forth several times, I was about to get the Wolf 60000 (truman version) of diesel tank water heater/furnance but is huge. So I'm thinking going electric (since we have 15kw batteries) I was going for the bosh simple water heater but on this build you used the Isotherm but didnt talked about much about it. Does this model connects to the van engine coolant too?
Wish my local Ace Hardware sold the expansion system. I used crimp, and it works fine, but tough getting into tight areas. Your work is so nice and clean.
I agree, thatâs the worst part about propex is that it hasnât caught on yet. My bet is that this is the most popular plumbing system in 5-10 years!
@@seven_o_savage I could have saved hours, maybe days. Thank you for this vid.
What do you think of the acuva UV water filter system for an off grid water purification system. I will be filling up at rivers and such.
Nice and thorough walk through! I think I've rewatched this at least 10 times now since Im in the middle of building out my water system. Where did you find those black check valves? Ive been searching online and hardware stores with no luck. The ones I have found are extremely pricey.
Thanks! I bought the extremely pricey ones, but you can get brass check valves on amazon for cheap.
Question about the isotemp water heater! Did you need to run the coolant lines at all or will it work on just electricity alone?
Looking good! What is that boot that you use to run pex and wires through the bottom of the van? You can see it at 17:45 in your video.
Wow great van build. Love all the information. We're taking notes for our future van build. Might sound silly but we love seeing things that work vs things that don't. Is there a difference running lines under van vs running lines in flooring ? Amazing van build
Running water lines in the floor is ideal if you do it correctly. If you're running both hot and cold lines, make sure they're not touching. Separate them either by leaving an air gap or insulation. There should also not be ANY connections in the floor itself so that you don't have to rip out the floor in the case of a leak. There are 90° bend helpers made for PEX to avoid needing an elbow fitting. If you don't have space for a bend helper, you can still use a regular elbow, but notch the subfloor so that you can access both ends of it and replace the fitting if necessary.
What is the water pressure like after running it through the three filters?
Really great video. I see one issue though. You have the water tank inside the van to prevent freezing. But you have both water pipes to the sink on the outside. These pipes will freeze in cold areas. You should have kept them inside, or you need to insulate them heavily. This would also help that they are not damaged while driving over debris.
I don't think he wanna go to cold regions like you gotta do in europe, where every place is cold
Nice... I wish you would have talked more about the water heater though, why you selected that model and what the electrical is related to it
where can i find that water fill inlet??? thank you! also does the length of the water sensor matter? are there options to choose from?
Are you planning on connecting the heater to the vehicle coolant system to heat the water or are you just relying on heating it with AC power?
Can you fill from a river? Will the filters clean river water?
Thanks
Thank you Great video. Do you have a link for the check valve you used. Thanks
Each to their own. In every van build video I've watched, that includes a manual pump, I come away with an impression of simple, functional, cost-effective, and yet tedious. When I'm ready to build mine, I'll use an electric pump and accept the risks with the benefits.
Excellent video!! quelle est la grandeur de la vanne Ă©lectrique US Solid pour l'eau grise?
Merci!
NWConversions sells this for $50 less by the way. About to start my water system install soon! Thanks for the video
Wow well done, I saw too things , I would as something like a stainless steel bock under the filters , then the water can drain in there and a cut of bevor and after the filter. And Iâm not sure if there is smell coming out of the drain in your basin . Uppener wow cool
Hey Savage...I have those exact same fresh/grey tanks and came across this vid. Great job. question - what length sensors did you order for each and where on the grey tank did you install it? Kind of a funky set up down there.
Howdy, I got a sensor thatâs about 1â shorter than the height of the tank. I only put one on the fresh water tank but you could def get one onto the gray water as well.
You should add an air admittance valve (Studor vent) on inlet side of the drain trap.
Awesome content! I'm evaluating water heater options - any reason you went with electric over hydronic?
Or desiel?