Ford F250 front Axle dust seal install, New improved design 4x4
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
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Most people that has a F250 probably has this problem. I have a 2006 powerstoke 6.0 4x4. This is not critical but it bothered my not having it on there. The seal is design to keep dust and road grime out the axle housing. If you found this video helpful or would like help fund future experiments. please donate below.
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Dude, never seen an axle so clean....
I love it...
Must be somewhere warm and dry if you can work on your truck with flip flops.
Yeh man, what's your secret?
Had to do the hub bearing on our 03 excursion. For the amount of work I would do the full set, thrust washers, seals, dust seal etc.
I just did the inner axle seals. Now I’ve noticed some movement in the ball joints. Bought made in the USA kryptonite upper and lower kit as well as track bar ball joint. They have lifetime warranties. I also got the otc 6697 to knock the knuckle seals in place. Not looking forward to doing this next weekend. I just had the Napa ball joints with the green and blue seals put on 12k miles ago and a moog track bar ball joint less than 6k ago and they’re all bad. Only buying made in the USA parts from now on. Moog and Napa aren’t what they used to be. All cheap chinesium parts now.
yeah man, when moog was American their factory was in smithfield tn. business is gone now but the road still says moog industries blvd. sad its now owned by a capital corp. on 5th ave. nyc. gutted and immediately sent overseas. their balljoints now have plastic instead of bronze bushing.
When I took mine off I used a flat head screwdriver it worked to pull the snap ring
I used craftsman snap ring plyers. Wow taking me 4 days to do both sides. I never even knew about the new dust shields. Lol
You almost figured it out. In thought you had it. You can remove the hub assembly in whole without Messing with it. Saves a lot of time and wasted effort.
I pit a 2×4 against the strut, gave me leverage to pop out axle with ease
You can actually take the Hub loose once you take the steering control arm Loose by turning the Hub to the left and the right to get the four bolts off and pull the axle and hub out all at the same time you just need to tweak The Hub behind that old bad seal right there at the housing tube with a pry bar once you loosen the Hub and pulled it forward a little bit first though
That's the problem and needs to be Snap-on or micro Matco something like that to reach back there Universal ones but anyway as I said you can take it out all together, get your line loose from the truck for the ABS first. Right behind the dust seal that you want to replace there is a 90 degree angle on that shaft, you can put a pry bar back there once you get your Hub to separate about a quarter inch from the spindle at the front and Pop That axle loose and then continue to pull it all together. The nuts come off of your Hub bolts instead of The Whole Bowl coming out but then that back on there and take a 13/16 socket put on it and tap them with a hammer to get them to come forward and break loose
Good job
Thank u for the video it help me out I’m doing the same thing to my truck
Those snap rings are a pain in the ass... I just replaced wheel bearings and those dust seals... one time there snap Rings come out easy the next time it'll take you a half hour... good luck brother
Lee Kitzmiller did you need a press to get those dust seals in?
@@castillo33brandon just a hammer
The ones O'Reilly's AutoZone and all them have are too big to get into the holes that needs to be Max Snap-on or Matco or Cornwell to do the job but, you can also take a pair of long nose needle nose pliers to the grinder and turn the tips down a little bit and then just Pull them apart to get the snap ring off
Lisle makes snap ring pliers just for this job!!
You totally lost me with the whole dust shield thing, that is the easy part!!! But when I saw the Flip flops for this job!??! I'm out.
If he still has his toes that means he knows what he’s doing
How come you didn't show putting the main Hub seal in. A lot harder than it looks
If you cant get the snap ring off the stub axle on the the truck
Its possible to pull everything off the truck with the hib still attach ed to the axle.
Unbolt the hub and pry tje axle forwad ising the space between the hub face and yoke mating surface. If its got the orginal c clip from the factory you will never get it off on the truck.
Work smart
Which c clip?
Hello from montreal,,tank you for tips,,! Ive to told you a very funny thing,,,i do exacly the same job now,,,,i look your video for the dust seal,,,,it is so weird ,,,i listen the same song,,,🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 dream on,,,,,im gonna dream until my dream come thru,,,finish that job,,,where are you on earth,?
Most trucks don't even have that seal anymore. Not needed unless you do deep water crossings. There is another seal farther up the housing.
Its an outter dust seal the inner one keeps the fluid in the outer one is to keep dirt rocks and crop from getting in there and causing the axle to not destroy the Inner sealand destroying your whole dam axle it's a must if you want your axle to last longer than 10k miles
@@dahlusional1 I meant most outer seals are destroyed.
I bet the popping sound is coming from the U-joints hitting the lower ball joint stud , with thew up and down play you have the small needle bearings in the hub is probably worn out and wearing into the stub staff, and the sensor is not a speed sensor it is the ABS sensor
I had a slight but noticeable humming sound coming from the front end that alerted me the seals were failing and I parked it and checked it out. I got to my problem before it got too bad.
I used a PVC pipe to do the axle dust seal
what did you do with the plastic wafer that centers the end of the axle where it meets the inner seal by the carrier
yep your right ,that little clip is a mutha,go to Amazon and get some long reach c clip remover pliers
If it's popping , it is going to be the U joint right behind the spindle
I bought KNIPEX Tools - Circlip Pliers, External, Straight, 1 37/64"-3 15/16" Shaft Dia. (4611A3) snap ring pliers for $34.19 from Amazon to do mine and they worked great.
Good job. Clean.
When you remove the vacuum seal they say you should replace it with a new one how true is that. Thx
If your vac seal is good you can get away with it. They say to replace it bc youve gone so far in already and they are the most common item to cause autolockers to not work
@@xLong_Johnson Draw a vacuum to see how good the old one is first and don't leave it locked all the time or you will wear it out!
i would always replace the vacuum seal they wear out and leak even without being taken on and off
you can get away with it but they are cheap and easy enough if you are there use a new one
Pawn shops,Sears,Napa for the pliers.Maybe....
Did you replace the outer seal--the seal in the steering knuckle?
Thanks for thr part number links. 👍
What are the part number for upgraded seal?
Will somebody post the actual part number to the seals? This is ridiculous that after all those comments and this entire video, THEY AREN'T POSTED!
What year is your truck. Mine is 2008 F350 DRW and the correct seal from NAPA is an SKF CR Seal with part number 16510. This one is made in Taiwan but I'm sure others make the seals.
So how’d u get the snap ring off???????? I spent 4 hours trying today had to put it back together
I bought a big paid of snap ring pliers. Look at the links above.
Axle seal install
FYI. If you let these seals go bad and you 4x4 vacuum system takes in mud. Say good bye to you vacuum pump and maybe brake booster. This is coming from someone it happened too.
Best thing to do is get manual locking hubs and cap off your vacuum lines then full the whole void with grease.
You should never ever wear flip-flops while working on a car. Especially under a area you are working on. Not a good idea.
Safety first 👍
Thanks, If the truck falls on my feet I'm screwed flip flops or not.
Wow. So under educated on what you are taking on
How to grease front wheel bearings and take her to park on an F250 4 wheel drive Ford pickup all right
you did all the work and didnt fix the problem. the seals were blown because your needle bearnings in your hub were bad. the stub axle should not move. Wheel bearnings can be tight.(shaking the tire side to side) but the axle needle bearnings bad.
Its newer sealed stub shaft bearing design. Not the old roller bearing style. There fine I checked.
@@AviewFromUnder Not sure why, my 4 wheel drives works perfectly and my dust seals actually do there job, Like I said I have the newer sealed bearing design. Not the older greased roller bearings.
Fintech you are missing the point. Your problem does not originate from a dust seal, its the needle bearing inside the hub. Your hub bearing can be good with bad needle bearings.
@@fintechrepairshop your 4x4 will still work with bad bearing. The needle bearing is what causes movement NOT the dust seal. The dust seal is not a structural component and there is no such thing as a sealed hub shaft, there is 1 and only 1 design used on these front hubs
@@fintechrepairshop Greased needle bearings and you don't even need those housing seals unless you go through deep creeks etc
Do you lnow the part number on the timken hub rear small bearing
Good morning do you remember the seal part number sr.
Posting part # of seal would be helpful please
The sniffling
Cocaine is a hell of a drug!
@@evanklippenstein haha...SLAP!!! CHARLES MURPHY!!!
I'm trying to do ball joints and I'm stock at that snap ring please help thanks In advance
Pull the axle with the hub attached. Put axle in a vise pull snap ring off. 10 minutes vs hours of ******** around on the truck.
@@mark-ml6rp so you dont have to remove the snap ring to get the hub off the knuckle? i noticed mine has that black ring before the snap ring
@@mattharlow8492
I went threw a shit load of cheap pliers. It is possible to do it with out snap ring pliers if you do the following. Remove all the hub nuts.
Using a normal heavy wall socket
Have the motor running and have a 2 person turn the steering wheel from lock to lock postion with the socket in place where the steering
Yoke stops against the casting..
You still need a pair of good OTC
FORGED PLIERS. But if you stick
The hub and shaft in a vise your cheap snap ring or 2 screw drivers
Or punches will work for you..
$34.19 from Amazon - KNIPEX Tools - Circlip Pliers, External, Straight, 1 37/64"-3 15/16" Shaft Dia. (4611A3). They will do the job right and with no cussing, LOL.
No rust or anything on that thing. This must be a 3 yr old truck
I paint the axel and live in a place where its doesn't rain very much.
Year should be in your title
What harbor freight tool is that?
Astro snap ring pliers on amazon
What kind or brand snap ring pliers did you used
I have a question is the inner axle shaft supposed to spin on a truck or stay still?
On 2006 to present Ford F250/F350/F450/F550 the inner axle always spins while the truck is in motion. Until the hubs are locked in, the wheels themselves are not under power but yes, the inner axles are constantly spinning when the truck is in motion.
Was it a pain to get the axle back into the differential far enough? I have one of these apart I’m going back together with it tomorrow and I know it says you need a special tool to beat the axle back into its hole because it fits really tightly into the knuckle, did you have any issues getting the axle back in far enough?
I think I used a soft Dead blow hammer
Fintech Repair Shop gotcha awesome and I wonder if it’s ok to use a bit of grease on the inside of the knuckle so it slides in easier but I’m not sure if that’s meant to be a dry fit
@@2491kridge Only thing I lubed up was the metal where rubber seals are going.
@@2491kridge Not a dry fit, you can make a tool with pipe parts and a flange piece
there is a seal tool that is well worth the money if i can find a link i will post it but the main cause of 4x4 failure in the hubs is the seal not being put in correctly. ie force fitted tapped with a screw driver or socket or piece of pipe. tool is model year specific 99-04 -05 -10 if i remember right
Did you also replace your outer seal or did you leave the original one on?
He reused the outer. If you have manual hubs you’ll be good I guess but if you have auto hubs it might not seal using old outer seal.
That shit still together or did it tear itself up
Im getting fluid in that same area... do i need to replace a seal further back?
Yes, there is a wet seal that holds the fluid in the differential. the sealing surface rides on the machined portion of the axle, just after the splines. In this video that machined surface of his axle looks dirty and rusty which would be a indicator of seal failure or eminent seal failure. there is not supposed to be any oil in the axle tube
@@owenkennison8055 The axle shaft will be rusty and dirty. It's not an actual sealed system. The dust seal just keeps out the large stuff so it does not work its way inward and destroy the inner seal. The inner seal is fine unless there is oil in the tubes but rust and dirt are to be expected in the outer tubes.
Ya told us where we can't get the long snap ring pliers but didn't tell us where wr could get them.
Look above or this link
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1EGFHX/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01M1EGFHX&linkId=d55c4d524d3d3ac85b0ede0f3fc5551f
Knipex 46 11 a 3 is the pliers you need. Check them out on Amazon. Most of the reviews are from superduty ownersd.
harbor freight makes a usable one seems to hold up for enough uses for any typical superdookie owner
I have the 2002... I bet mine still has the open needle bearing..
Makes me wanna puke...... I can't believe they didn't put a grease cert on it anywhere.
Or at least have a sealed bearing like yours.
U didn’t need any special tools for seal install
Hey buddy can you tell me what the harbor freight tool you used to put the seal in. it had the black runner end on it thanks man
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GVQOSA4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01GVQOSA4&linkId=c581099bf46fac780fa9b53660bfca9f
Harbor freight
www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-63261.html
brother they sell a hub puller for that
They rent them too, at the parts stores. In this case no issue with prying it out. He was clueless though. I like where he was whipping the junk off inside (ie, grease).
Barefoot builder!
Helped me out....
A street cruiser needs 4wd? Come to my place
of course it needs 4x4 its a truck and even if you are a pavement princess you never know when you might have to park on top of a pius :)
Why he don't show how he take hub off dislike for it
The Whole ACTUAL job of replacing the seals....DIDN'T EVEN FILM IT - WTF?? Complete waste of time. Show the parts and then magically they are all in there...PRETTY LAME
Yeah, this video fucking sucked!!
Dude you skipped the entire process of installing seal! WTF, don't waste your time.
What was the toll you used?
What was to took you used from harbor freight
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179G3SOC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=fintechcomm0f-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0179G3SOC&linkId=bb0988e34108e038425849afa586a229
2 hub seals = one for each side....
I wonder if is the same on the passenger side
One seal is for install and vacuum test the hub. The second seal is for you to replace it with one that will go on the vehicle after testing is completed.
Booooo! No part numbers...
Is it same on passenger side?
yeah
Would those seals cause my truck to shake while driving?
@@edgarvilla1866 No, most trucks don't even have them in place anymore.
@@edgarvilla1866 u joints? i hope you arent talking about death woble.
is it a shake at slow speed that becomes a vibration at fwy speed? if so axel u joints
if full death wobel that comes on at higher speeds there are too many theories to go into here just do a look up on death wobel
john galt it was the cheaper tires I had lol I replaced them and problem was solved
Went through my whole front end and found both wheel bearings bad. My left side axle doesn't even have the outer seal
Helped me out....