I know that a lot of the fashionable skirts in the later Victorian period are cut with massive gores but I have to imagine that this would’ve been a very practical option for women of more humble means and that we just don’t see a lot of them because they were worn and worn out
I would assume that this is the case. On might have had one "fancy" skirt for special occasions, but for the rest this kind of skirt might have been worn and recycled many times.
They also pieced fabric as needed, especially on the rear gores, and where the fashion fabric wasn't visible, it was replaced with plain, inexpensive fabric. Skirt tops that are hidden by a swagged bodice are often plain cotton.
I have seen a cutting diagram from this era described as a housemaids skirt where after cutting the front panel on fold, you take the remaining length of fabric and by cutting it through on an almost diagonal you get two gores, top and tailed. This would only work on fabric with no nap, but very effective in getting the fashionable silhouette and least bulk of fabric on the waist and very little fabric wastage.
Your finished skirt is lovely! Thank you for showing that you had to "unsew" in a few places. I'm thrilled you used your treadle machine to sew this, showing that these old machines are still capable of sewing beautiful stitches. I adore my treadles and hand crank machines after discovering how easy they are to operate!
Thank you! Especially for letting me know, what you liked about the video. That helps me a lot since I'm often wondering if I should include my "mistakes" or not. Those ols machines are so simple to use and maintain. I do almost all my sewing on this machine now.
Skirts of this period were worn with a bum pad, so had extra gathering at the back, to allow for this. Hence, less gathering at the front, and more at the back. The skirt still looks fantastic, and a great use of the limited amount of fabric that you had.
That's true, and I'm wearing the bum pad I made underneath the skirt. It definitely helps, but it isn't enough... I might have to make a bigger one but then I'm not sure if the weight of the skirt would crush it.
Tops, T-shirts? Patchwork? Gift wraps - Furoshiki in Japanese. Doll garments? Fabric items of use around the house: cushion covers, book covers, boxes, drawer linings, small window curtains? Chair cushions, or chair seat covers? Mix and match for garments, obviously. 😊
Der Rock ist echt toll geworden! 😍🙌 Wer hätte gedacht, dass ein so simpler Schnitt auch für edwardianische Röcke funktioniert! Und ich bewundere dich echt für deine Video skills! Die werden mit jedem Video besser!! 👌
Danke dir! 💙 Das hat mich auch überrascht, aber als ich den Schnitt gefunden hab, wollte ich es einfach ausprobieren. Dankeschön! Übung macht echt viel aus. 😁
Those are great ideas! I will have to sort the fabrics by material, since there is from linen to silk almost everything at hand, but maybe it's still enough to make a garment out of them.
@@stevezytveld6585 I have immediately a version of the crazy hatmaker in mind. This could be a really fun fantasy project with some historical aspects! Thank you so much for the input. 😊
You did a great job on the skirt. It makes me want to try my hand at making one like yours. I have that book too and often find the instructions frustrating and confusing.
I feel you! I was more than confused by these instructions, but at some point I decided to just give it a try. In the end, at least this skirt, wasn't that difficult. I can recommend trying it.
I own three books with patterns from the voice of fashion including the one used in this video, and the book with patterns from 1900-1905 explains the scaling system used in the voice of fashion. (hence the "use the scale corresponding with the bust measure" things) The author and their husband worked together to research and calculate these scales and based on their research the scales they used have remained the same throughout the history of the magazine. The same goes for the proportions. The patterns generally have these proportions: the bust will be 10 inches bigger than the waist, and the hips will be 15 inches bigger than the waist (these can be slightly off but are easy to adjust). it becomes soooooooo much easier with the scales instead of having to self draft and calculate. I'd definitely recommend the book "The voice of fashion" with the patterns from 1900-1905 even if it's not your style because it contains a ton of information about the scales and drafting system. ever since I bought that one my experience with those patterns has become so pleasant and pretty easy. Cannot recommend it enough.
Thank you so much! I searched the book, and it was already in my wishlist, so I will definitely buy it soon. I am really curious to learn more about the scaling systems used. I was really wondering what I am missing, but this makes a lot of sense now.
OK, just to start with - those sample fabrics are Beautiful. If you have some wool and some cotton you could make yourself the most beautiful sewing hams. The skirt is Devine. It's so lovely, well done. I think the walking skirts just tend to have a dropping problem in the back. A diamond-pointed fabric belt would look amazing with the skirt. Looking forward to what you come up with. As always, beautiful video. Thank you. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
That's the reason, I still have them in my stash. Most of the fabrics are just too beautiful to be thrown away... Unfortunately, there is no wool in my stash, but making a sewing ham is a great idea too! The skirt is quite heavy at the back, so yes it is most likely a dropping problem. I had a pointed belt in mind, too. :) Thank you very much for your comments!
@@ankanyofficial You had a hand in making those fabric designs. Use them, I figure. You could make your own sewing kit with some of them (ham, needlebook storage, 17th century sewing pocket, scissor sheathe, some more pattern weights - yours are very cute, by-the-by,...). If you ever decide to do a Patreon you could offer up patterns for sewing equipment as one of your 'gives'? And? Happy to comment. You give good conversation and I love batting ideas around.
Thank you! Creating fabrics is really a passion of mine, but sleeping right now. Those are all really great ideas! Especially combining it with a potential Patreon "give", I always thought that I wouldn't be able to provide anything for that. Batting ideas around is an interesting expression. I will add this to my vocabulary. Thanks for doing so!
@@ankanyofficial Hey Lady/Human, I just had a passing thought. Now that you have the walking skirt, you need the next step in the Bernadette video process - a vest, drafted with the Keystone Guide to Cutting & Tailoring. You could use your samples for both the fashion fabric and the lining. You could also 'quilt' the samples together to make a lining for an eventual jacket to finish the 'mob boss' 3 piece skirt suit?
@@stevezytveld6585 😂 That's true! I thought I will first make a blouse, so that I have something to wear under a vest. But a vest is definitely a project to come. I love your Idea of quilting the lining out of my samples!
Thank you. I have 2 metres of a check wool, intended for a different project but I think I will get more wear from a skirt, and was wondering how to get a walking skirt out of it. It helps that with a waistband I only need a length of 87cm so will have some left over. Instead of gathers though I think I will try pleating at the waistband [being short and ''plus'' size gathers don't look good on me]. Now I know that I can make a skirt from this amount of fabric and with 2 seams will have one that is 3m diametre at the hemline.
I'm happy to hear, that my video helped you! In hindsight, I would recommend working pleats instead of gatherings, since the gatherings add a lot of volume.
the skirt is quite nice! I think the gathering ended up too big because the scaling wasn't right. The standard patterns aren't in inches ( i assume that's where you got the 153 cm from) to put it simply i draft my skirts with a 26 inch waist (66cm) So I have to scale the pattern to the 26 inch. I calculated the scale for my waist and it is 2.1, that means the 60 1/4 for the width should be multiplied by 2.1 in order for it to be proportionate to my waist. So I'll have 126.5cm for half of the skirt width. times two (because it's cut double) I end up with 253cm which is realistic to gather to a 26 inch waistband. I hope this makes sense in any way.
Yes, after reading multiple times, it makes sense now. :D I will definitely buy the book Voice of Fashion in order to be able to calculate my scale. I assume, you calculated the scaling with its help?
@@ankanyofficial yes, and they actually even provide rulers that you can copy so you don't have to calculate. I have yet to make the rulers but I'm sure they'll make the process even easier. So it's definitely worthy checking out
@@saywhatnow5507 I read about the rulers in the description, and I am really curious to see them. I found a second-hand copy of the book and ordered it, so I might be able to use it soon.
Dankeschön! Das Buch heißt "Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns" und ich habe es auf Amazon gekauft. Ich kann aber empfehlen das Buch "Voice of Fashion" dazuzukaufen, denn das hat die richtigen Skalierungssysteme angegeben.
if there are linens or cottons in that stash around a metre, why not just make yourself some house skirts or perhaps an apron or two? i know with my size i can get away with a yard by cutting in panels. it’s perhaps more modern than your preferences but you could always colour block (tone-on-tone or feature patterned panels?) or use some of the small swatches as tie on or patch pockets. or as facing pieces… or cut them into bias tape for hong kong finishes?
Thank you for those many ideas! Most of the fabrics are some fancy material, so I'm a little weary using them. But for the natural fiber ones, I will definitely start making some smaller projects.
Thank you! I found it on eBay, but the seller hasn't one anymore. If you are German based, looking for "Besenborte" can help, but it's rather unusual to get nowadays. Right now, I don't have a reliable source here in Germany.
They are weights holding the fabric in place without the need of pricking needles through the fabric in order to secure the pattern. And no, I didn't make them. They were a gift.
Sure, the piece of wood is called a clapper, and basically one presses it onto the still hot seam, so that the moisture leaves the fabric, and it cools down while still pressing it. Fibers usually tend to go back to their previous position while in a moist and hot state, once cool and dry, they lose this ability. This way, the seams stay sharper for longer. I hope that made it clear. :)
@@ankanyofficial what a fantastic explanation! Clear and concise, yet full of information- big applause, and thumbs way up! Thanks for taking the time to explain!
Hi, ich interessiere mich auch sehr für diese Kleidungs Art, wo kann mann solche Schnittmuster kostenlos bekommen.? Könntest du mir bitte da vielleicht weiterhelfen? lg.tina
Hi, Ich bin, was Schnittmuster angeht, nicht so wahnsinnig versiert, weil ich die meisten selber mache. Ich entnehme sie dann alten Zeitschriften oder Büchern. Auf HathiTrust habe ich bisher die meisten gefunden. Aber was moderne Schnittmuster geht, weiß ich das leider nicht.
It's called "Ladies Street Costume, Spring 1893" on page 29. Make sure you use the correct sizing, which I didn't know at the time, is a special one. That's why my skirt ended up too wide. I was told the sizing guide is part of the book "The Voice of Fashion".
I know that a lot of the fashionable skirts in the later Victorian period are cut with massive gores but I have to imagine that this would’ve been a very practical option for women of more humble means and that we just don’t see a lot of them because they were worn and worn out
I would assume that this is the case. On might have had one "fancy" skirt for special occasions, but for the rest this kind of skirt might have been worn and recycled many times.
They also pieced fabric as needed, especially on the rear gores, and where the fashion fabric wasn't visible, it was replaced with plain, inexpensive fabric. Skirt tops that are hidden by a swagged bodice are often plain cotton.
I have seen a cutting diagram from this era described as a housemaids skirt where after cutting the front panel on fold, you take the remaining length of fabric and by cutting it through on an almost diagonal you get two gores, top and tailed. This would only work on fabric with no nap, but very effective in getting the fashionable silhouette and least bulk of fabric on the waist and very little fabric wastage.
I love this. It's good to know that a skirt doesn't need 5 yards and can still be full length. Beautiful skirt
Thank you!
I used to think that these skirts need yards of fabric, but I'm really glad to know it better now. ☺️
Your finished skirt is lovely! Thank you for showing that you had to "unsew" in a few places. I'm thrilled you used your treadle machine to sew this, showing that these old machines are still capable of sewing beautiful stitches. I adore my treadles and hand crank machines after discovering how easy they are to operate!
Thank you! Especially for letting me know, what you liked about the video. That helps me a lot since I'm often wondering if I should include my "mistakes" or not.
Those ols machines are so simple to use and maintain. I do almost all my sewing on this machine now.
Same here. I have an electric machine, but I do love the steady sound of the hand crank and treadle sewing machines
Your hand sewing is meticulous and very pretty. I often wonder if I have that much patience.
It's very pretty. Thank you.
Thank you!
Sometimes I don't have the patience, and sometimes I do. So maybe just try it when you feel like it. :)
Beautiful finished product also can’t help but admire your shoes at the end of the video
Thank you!
I love them too, they really fit the style I wear.
Excellent
It's gorgeous!
Skirts of this period were worn with a bum pad, so had extra gathering at the back, to allow for this. Hence, less gathering at the front, and more at the back.
The skirt still looks fantastic, and a great use of the limited amount of fabric that you had.
That's true, and I'm wearing the bum pad I made underneath the skirt. It definitely helps, but it isn't enough... I might have to make a bigger one but then I'm not sure if the weight of the skirt would crush it.
That's SUCH a wonderful pattern, a very summer-y type of skirt and I'd love to try and make my own as yours came out super nice!
It's also really lightweight in comparison to my other skirts, so definitely suited for the summer. :)
I might see your skirt on your channel then?
I enjoyed your walking skirt tutorial 💜
It turned out beautifully! Good job!
Thank you so much! ☺️
What a beautiful skirt you have made, so stunning!
Thank you so much! 😊
A very big gratitude from my side. it's a great happiness to know your channel I inspired and hope for more to learn ....Love your handy work !
Thank you for your sweet comment! It makes me so happy that you feel inspired! 😊
Tops, T-shirts? Patchwork? Gift wraps - Furoshiki in Japanese. Doll garments? Fabric items of use around the house: cushion covers, book covers, boxes, drawer linings, small window curtains? Chair cushions, or chair seat covers? Mix and match for garments, obviously. 😊
Those are all great ideas! It all comes down to effective time management now, I suppose. 😅
The skirt is beautiful and that print is outstanding.
Thank you! I love this print, too. :)
That’s so pretty. Well done
Thank you!
Der Rock ist echt toll geworden! 😍🙌 Wer hätte gedacht, dass ein so simpler Schnitt auch für edwardianische Röcke funktioniert! Und ich bewundere dich echt für deine Video skills! Die werden mit jedem Video besser!! 👌
Danke dir! 💙
Das hat mich auch überrascht, aber als ich den Schnitt gefunden hab, wollte ich es einfach ausprobieren.
Dankeschön! Übung macht echt viel aus. 😁
Most elegant
Thank you! 😊
Beautiful
You should try making a patchwork quilt with all those samples
Or a patchwork jacket / coat /cape ?
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 yes good idea 👍
Those are great ideas! I will have to sort the fabrics by material, since there is from linen to silk almost everything at hand, but maybe it's still enough to make a garment out of them.
@@ankanyofficial You could always keep the decently sized scraps for a crazy quilt. And then have fun with the fabric you've made?
@@stevezytveld6585 I have immediately a version of the crazy hatmaker in mind. This could be a really fun fantasy project with some historical aspects!
Thank you so much for the input. 😊
Beautiful skirt Beautiful fabric Beautiful stitching Thank you for sharing 🧵
Thank you for your comment! ❤
It looks wonderful!
Congratulations!
Thank you! ☺️
@@ankanyofficial you are welcome 😁
Wow so beautiful
Thank you!
It's so pretty!
Thanky you! 😊
It looks beautiful!
Thank you!
Talented yet expert
Thank you!
Nice, and the sewing machine is something !
Thank you! Yes, this machine is something indeed. 😊
Lovely ❤
Thank you! ☺
very pretty
Thank you!
Beautiful skirt. You could do small victorian projects with your material. A victorian pocket or hussif. Thank you for a lovely video.
I am planning to make some handbags soon, that would be great to use some smaller pieces.
When I was young and had a smaller waist, I would’ve been ecstatic to have had a skirt like that to wear-with a tailored, button-up, lace blouse. 😊
I can totally relate. I love wearing the skirt with a blouse. Unfortunately, I have only one right now. 🙈
You will need The voice of fashion book with the measuring tapes in the back to be able to recreate the patterns in the book you were using.
Thank you for the tip! I assumed that it would be such a thing, like a missing measuring reference.
That book is on my wish list now.
You did a great job on the skirt. It makes me want to try my hand at making one like yours. I have that book too and often find the instructions frustrating and confusing.
I feel you! I was more than confused by these instructions, but at some point I decided to just give it a try. In the end, at least this skirt, wasn't that difficult. I can recommend trying it.
I own three books with patterns from the voice of fashion including the one used in this video, and the book with patterns from 1900-1905 explains the scaling system used in the voice of fashion. (hence the "use the scale corresponding with the bust measure" things) The author and their husband worked together to research and calculate these scales and based on their research the scales they used have remained the same throughout the history of the magazine. The same goes for the proportions. The patterns generally have these proportions: the bust will be 10 inches bigger than the waist, and the hips will be 15 inches bigger than the waist (these can be slightly off but are easy to adjust). it becomes soooooooo much easier with the scales instead of having to self draft and calculate. I'd definitely recommend the book "The voice of fashion" with the patterns from 1900-1905 even if it's not your style because it contains a ton of information about the scales and drafting system. ever since I bought that one my experience with those patterns has become so pleasant and pretty easy. Cannot recommend it enough.
Thank you so much! I searched the book, and it was already in my wishlist, so I will definitely buy it soon. I am really curious to learn more about the scaling systems used. I was really wondering what I am missing, but this makes a lot of sense now.
OK, just to start with - those sample fabrics are Beautiful. If you have some wool and some cotton you could make yourself the most beautiful sewing hams. The skirt is Devine. It's so lovely, well done. I think the walking skirts just tend to have a dropping problem in the back.
A diamond-pointed fabric belt would look amazing with the skirt. Looking forward to what you come up with. As always, beautiful video. Thank you.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
That's the reason, I still have them in my stash. Most of the fabrics are just too beautiful to be thrown away...
Unfortunately, there is no wool in my stash, but making a sewing ham is a great idea too!
The skirt is quite heavy at the back, so yes it is most likely a dropping problem. I had a pointed belt in mind, too. :)
Thank you very much for your comments!
@@ankanyofficial You had a hand in making those fabric designs. Use them, I figure.
You could make your own sewing kit with some of them (ham, needlebook storage, 17th century sewing pocket, scissor sheathe, some more pattern weights - yours are very cute, by-the-by,...). If you ever decide to do a Patreon you could offer up patterns for sewing equipment as one of your 'gives'?
And? Happy to comment. You give good conversation and I love batting ideas around.
Thank you! Creating fabrics is really a passion of mine, but sleeping right now.
Those are all really great ideas! Especially combining it with a potential Patreon "give", I always thought that I wouldn't be able to provide anything for that.
Batting ideas around is an interesting expression. I will add this to my vocabulary. Thanks for doing so!
@@ankanyofficial Hey Lady/Human, I just had a passing thought. Now that you have the walking skirt, you need the next step in the Bernadette video process - a vest, drafted with the Keystone Guide to Cutting & Tailoring. You could use your samples for both the fashion fabric and the lining.
You could also 'quilt' the samples together to make a lining for an eventual jacket to finish the 'mob boss' 3 piece skirt suit?
@@stevezytveld6585 😂 That's true! I thought I will first make a blouse, so that I have something to wear under a vest.
But a vest is definitely a project to come. I love your Idea of quilting the lining out of my samples!
Thank you. I have 2 metres of a check wool, intended for a different project but I think I will get more wear from a skirt, and was wondering how to get a walking skirt out of it. It helps that with a waistband I only need a length of 87cm so will have some left over. Instead of gathers though I think I will try pleating at the waistband [being short and ''plus'' size gathers don't look good on me]. Now I know that I can make a skirt from this amount of fabric and with 2 seams will have one that is 3m diametre at the hemline.
I'm happy to hear, that my video helped you!
In hindsight, I would recommend working pleats instead of gatherings, since the gatherings add a lot of volume.
the skirt is quite nice! I think the gathering ended up too big because the scaling wasn't right. The standard patterns aren't in inches ( i assume that's where you got the 153 cm from)
to put it simply i draft my skirts with a 26 inch waist (66cm) So I have to scale the pattern to the 26 inch. I calculated the scale for my waist and it is 2.1, that means the 60 1/4 for the width should be multiplied by 2.1 in order for it to be proportionate to my waist. So I'll have 126.5cm for half of the skirt width. times two (because it's cut double) I end up with 253cm which is realistic to gather to a 26 inch waistband.
I hope this makes sense in any way.
Yes, after reading multiple times, it makes sense now. :D
I will definitely buy the book Voice of Fashion in order to be able to calculate my scale. I assume, you calculated the scaling with its help?
@@ankanyofficial yes, and they actually even provide rulers that you can copy so you don't have to calculate. I have yet to make the rulers but I'm sure they'll make the process even easier. So it's definitely worthy checking out
@@saywhatnow5507 I read about the rulers in the description, and I am really curious to see them.
I found a second-hand copy of the book and ordered it, so I might be able to use it soon.
@@ankanyofficial I hope you'll find them just as useful as I did, they helped me a ton
Sehr gut! Shoenes rock... Wo kann ich bitte diesels buch finden?
Dankeschön!
Das Buch heißt "Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns" und ich habe es auf Amazon gekauft. Ich kann aber empfehlen das Buch "Voice of Fashion" dazuzukaufen, denn das hat die richtigen Skalierungssysteme angegeben.
Did you ever make the belt/ girdle? I'd love to see it and how something like this would work.
I tried, but so far I'm not happy with what I came up with...
If I figure it out, I will make a video.
if there are linens or cottons in that stash around a metre, why not just make yourself some house skirts or perhaps an apron or two? i know with my size i can get away with a yard by cutting in panels. it’s perhaps more modern than your preferences but you could always colour block (tone-on-tone or feature patterned panels?) or use some of the small swatches as tie on or patch pockets. or as facing pieces… or cut them into bias tape for hong kong finishes?
Thank you for those many ideas!
Most of the fabrics are some fancy material, so I'm a little weary using them. But for the natural fiber ones, I will definitely start making some smaller projects.
Lovely skirt! I am wondering, where did you find the brush braid?? Thank you in advance, Lynne
Thank you!
I found it on eBay, but the seller hasn't one anymore. If you are German based, looking for "Besenborte" can help, but it's rather unusual to get nowadays. Right now, I don't have a reliable source here in Germany.
@@ankanyofficial Thank you so much!
Did you make the crochet bonbons? What are they for?
They are weights holding the fabric in place without the need of pricking needles through the fabric in order to secure the pattern.
And no, I didn't make them. They were a gift.
😀
I am not an experienced sewer- can you explain what you were doing with the piece of wood after the ironing?
Sure, the piece of wood is called a clapper, and basically one presses it onto the still hot seam, so that the moisture leaves the fabric, and it cools down while still pressing it. Fibers usually tend to go back to their previous position while in a moist and hot state, once cool and dry, they lose this ability. This way, the seams stay sharper for longer.
I hope that made it clear. :)
@@ankanyofficial what a fantastic explanation! Clear and concise, yet full of information- big applause, and thumbs way up! Thanks for taking the time to explain!
@@yetanotherentity Thank you! It's good to know that it helped. ☺
with the smaller pieces i would cut up for a quilt
Yes, I thought about that too. I'm just worried about the different qualities.
if the fabrics are about the same weight you should do fine
@@ankanyofficial
@@michelebartholome7798 That's good to know! I will check for that. ☺
Fabric name??
Hi, ich interessiere mich auch sehr für diese Kleidungs Art, wo kann mann solche Schnittmuster kostenlos bekommen.? Könntest du mir bitte da vielleicht weiterhelfen? lg.tina
Hi,
Ich bin, was Schnittmuster angeht, nicht so wahnsinnig versiert, weil ich die meisten selber mache. Ich entnehme sie dann alten Zeitschriften oder Büchern. Auf HathiTrust habe ich bisher die meisten gefunden. Aber was moderne Schnittmuster geht, weiß ich das leider nicht.
You could wear a bum pad to raise the back / train….
Yes, that's what I do most of the time. 😊
If your doing it for your own enjoyment do what you want, if you are doing it for sale to a client, no you cant.
Absolutely. Luckily I'm making it for my own. In order to sell it or even make it for someone else I would test every step beforehand.
@5:58 Interesting, sewing without thread.
☺There is a thread, really fine and white, only visible in front of the needle itself.
Which pattern did you use? (Title or page # pls) I have the same book! Great video for what I was looking for! Cheers
It's called "Ladies Street Costume, Spring 1893" on page 29.
Make sure you use the correct sizing, which I didn't know at the time, is a special one. That's why my skirt ended up too wide.
I was told the sizing guide is part of the book "The Voice of Fashion".
Beautiful
Thank you!
Beautiful
Thank you!