An old timer concrete guy (70 years in the union & still working some!) told me that after spreading the gravel & compacting it, use a fertilizer spreader to put a thin layer of Portland cement & sprinkle with water to make it damp & compact it again. The gravel will harden up almost like poured concrete. I just finished applying 33 ft steel roofing panels on one of my 14x32 round top shelters. I have had a couple of tarps last just over a year. For a little more than double a new tarp price I bought the steel. The galvalume steel has a 25 year warranty. I moved from Wisconsin to the Missouri Ozarks 4 years ago. The tarps do not stand up to the sunshine here enough to barely exceed the warranty. The structure is very sturdy. We have survived 75 mph winds, with heavy rain. The steel panels work ok here, but since they're installed horizontally I would have concerns about snow loads in Wisconsin.
Nice solution for the door edge! I don't have moisture issues with my 3 year old Shelter Logic, I guess it's only 10'x10' and I used scrap wood for a floor. At the bottom of the door I ran a length of heavy electrical conduit pipe thru the sleeve and at each end used 2 wood stakes to make a slot to hold it on place during windy conditions. It has yet to frey. Best Regards, Jay
Tim, that heart intervention got good results. I re watched older videos and it was a slow process to see you slow down, but now you look refreshed (renewed) and full of energy as years before. Keep up the good work! I had a good laugh with "ham". Compacting the soil before the plastic was a smart move.
That's a perfect size rolling compactor for smaller jobs! That's actually the size I would like to have.... Heavy enough to do the job but also maneuverable. Nice work!
Nice video Tim. I like your door bottom protection idea. Perhaps without realizing it, your video is a example of the *Object Storage Paradox* Yeah, that’s really a thing. Think back to those early CZcams videos when you lived in your previous home through today. Below are the general steps of the Object Storage Paradox: 1 - You have some storage space but you have more items then storage space. You decide you need more space to store you stuff. 2 - To save money, you build a economical storage space such as a lean-to, or tent style space 3 - You realize the dirt floor is, well, dirty. You move up to gravel 4 - Its moist inside, so now you add a vapor barrier 5 - Its dark inside, so now you add some lights 6 - You want to charge batteries, maybe a engine block heater, so you add some power outlets 7 - The economical space doesn’t last. Its showing wear and you want something that will last. You swallow hard and spend money to rebuilt the entire thing as a basic, economical pole building 8 - You already spent so much on the pole building, it be a shame to not have a nice, smooth concrete floor 9 - You realize you could get some serious work done if it was insulated and heated. 10 - As you completed steps 1 through 9, you accumulated more stuff. Even since completing the building, you accumulated more stuff. The building was built to hold what you had, not all the stuff you now have. Now your nice, new stuff is sitting outside. You have so much stuff inside, you have to move stuff just to access other stuff. So, for all this new stuff, see step 1. It happens to a lot of us. 👍
Thank you Tim for all the things you share and help us learn by example. I especially got a big boost from Psalm 143:7-8 it lifted me when I was extremely low!
For packing dirt/rock/gavel, you can get big ol' pull behind drum rollers that you fill with water to make 'em really heavy. The ones I've seen do not vibrate -vibrating is the best way to go- but they are inexpensive enough that they are something you could justify purchasing to have on hand. Just don't forget to drain the water when it's freezing season!
Good that you are putting plastic down. I have an enclosed crawl space under an addition on house. Paid to have dirt floor on crawl space encapsulated with special 20 mil moisture proof material. 6 mil may tear with stones on top as you drive equipment in and out. Maybe two or three layers.
Job well done Tim. You"ll notice a massive difference. Unless you add heat with snow on top then it drips again...warm moist hitting a cold surface = rain haha Brilliant idea on the door bottoms
this will help me when I put in my new building, I will put down the plastic when I do the floor before the building goes up. Thanks Tim I am a Kubota guy but still Love your chanel! It doesn't matter what kind of equipment you have "just use it!" I love you and your family and the prayers at the end Thank you!
Great idea for the door edge. I have the same problem. When I roll the door down I tie it up so it's a bit above the ground. I also filled the tubing that's suppied for the bottom pocket with sand. Helps keep to door more ridgid and roll up a little tighter. Some good advise might be to not use the door pullie blocks that are included with the door kit. My pullies were plastic and would stretch and cause the rope to bind while pulling the doors up. I changed them to 304 SS ones. I purchased the 20M SS single and double pully swivel blocks sold on Amazon. You will need one single and one double for each door. You would also need a 2.75 inch SS spring snap carabiner hook for each pully block that would hook into that 1" hole you sliced into the tarp. I felt a little queezy cutting them too...lol...these pullies will probably handle up to a 3/8" rope. I also changed the rope to a better quality one. Also for those whom need to replace the tarps on your frames (especially under warranty) ShelterLogic likes to overcharge for shipping (I guess the girls work on commission) so beware. I live 2 hours from their Connecticut home and they wanted $200 for shipping for a 75lb replacement tarp. I reasoned with them and they charged me $125 to ship. Alot for what's included because the box arrived broken open. Cardboard wasn't that heavy duty. Good lluck Tim!
Can you use eyelet or grommet kits where you made the slits in the fabric? Maybe that would help prevent anymore fraying. ??? Good idea with the PVC on the bottom to protect the fabric from wearing holes in it.
Hi Tim, there will probably still be some moisture coming from the Rock until it dries out. If you get some warm days open the ends and let the air flow through. This late in the season it may not fully dry.
My shelter is not that big but one thing they do is sweat, put vents on both ends over doors for air flow it will take care of it. Make sure you size vents to the size of the building.
Great idea. I put PVC inside the slot because the metal pipe shelter logic gives you will rust. So with plastic inside and over the outside, it would give you a stain-free set up.
Thanks Tim for explaining the reason for so much moisture. The building we had rained in side making a major mess. We added vents that helped but didn't eliminate the moisture. Didn't think of the floor as cause of moisture.
The KEY for effective box blading is NOT the 3 point control - its the top link adjustment! Put the 3 point in float and adjust your cut with the hydraulic top link. That'll do 90% of what you need.
Tim the plastic will help with moisture coming up from the ground. But I believe you are still going to have the "sweating" from the cover. Now you have just created an aquarium with no place for the water to go. I hope it will work but I would not put anything directly on the ground, use pallets and just store items that you are trying to keep out of the sun. It may be a sauna inside.
I guess you were A-frayed to put a slit in the canvas. Great thinking with that PVC pipe. You may still need to put some type of venting in to keep the condensation down.
@@darrindunn8707 it could be if you have a skid steer quick attach and a hydraulic on the front. May have to get a PTO powered hydraulic unit to have the proper flow. My 6075 mahindra has the weight of a skidsteer for the down preassure.
Experience in using 6 mil plastic under gravel for radio tower bases-use tarpaper over the plastic-it is less liable to be pictured by the gravel-and esp when you are using heavy equipment on the plastic.The weight will cause the plastic to be punctured.For the AM radio tower base the plastic,tarpaper,gravel covered the copper ground screens under the tower base-you haven’t lived when you are connecting the ground radials to the base copper sheet with the station on air-sparks and from burned fingers-did at low power !
Out of curiosity do you mind doing a follow up review of the building and adding the plastic under the stone? I'm looking at going with a similar structure for equipment storage.
When you’re all done, what will you do to keep the dust down? Lots of ppl will just spray a light coat of oil/tar but it’s dirty and smells. My landscape material supplier uses tree sap. A light coat of sprayed tree sap somewhat seal the floor, keeps the dust down, and smells like a sugar shack for some time until it hardens. Pretty good if you can get your hands on some of that.
It was good logic to roll the stone beneath the plastic to minimize the sharp edges piercing the plastic. The problem is that you then put gravel with sharp edges on top of it. Driving and rolling the top layer will drive the gravel into the plastic. And that will continue with use over time because of the tractor traffic. I think you needed either 25 or 26 mil thick (pool liner thick) plastic or 1/4" foam (floor underlayment) to survive the gravel. Good luck!
If the fabric wants to slip out of the PVC slit, simply insert 1/2" or 3/4" PVC pipe inside the loop with your 1 1/2" slit pipe outside the loop, it can't pull out and is light weight.
Hey tim. Next time your box blading and moving big amounts like that, fill the bucket with rock too, it’ll help the tractor pull a lot better. I seen him spinning out a time or 2. Just a friendly tip.
Well Tim who would have thought it I didn't. We don't make a learning mistake if we don't do something. I don't like those I told you so's. If I new it would have happened I would have told you. You fix it and thats that. God bless.
I wonder if the roof could benefit from some kind of "ridge venting"? Not at all sure if this is even possible with a tarp covering kind of structure. Maybe some high up vents in the end walls?
Tim, Moisture is constantly rising up from the ground. Your tent trapped it. The moisture barrier you put in should solve the problem. I have seen this with metal buildings and concrete floors. Even with concrete you need a vapor barrier. I have seen in a metal building a horizontal line of water on everything from 3 feet down with a plainly visible mist/fog in the air, it was really weird. This why you should NEVER tarp something outside , it is better to let it get rained on because it will dry. Also, GREAT !! idea with the pvc pipe. You can do the 'smarty pants dance'. (look it up on YT) Art
The name Hamm that I know is in my family. That clear plastic won't last will it? Around my house when I put river rock I used the black stuff they use at nurseries pretty stuff stuff. Good luck with your stuff!
Hmm, I wonder about water coming in from the ends when it is raining and the door is blowing in and out, then you have water sitting on top of the plastic. Do you have any slope from the middle out?
I'll be looking forward to the long term review on this structure. At this point, I'm thinking that money should have went to a permanent solution. I understand you were pleased with the small version but this is a lot more money and work. Doesn't appear it will give appropriate service compared to the investment. Hope you will follow up maybe at the one year mark and again later if you still have it.
I’m no contractor or anything and I know it’s cheaper reusing the stone but could you have put the plastic down and then another layer of new stone over it to hold the moisture down and then possibly pour a slab of concrete for the finish floor
I know nothing about most of this stuff, but I'm not convinced the plastic will make that much difference. Cold surfaces will condense moisture from the air when it warms up, no? If your main shed wasn't heated, it would do the same. The roller should be called BURGER! lol Always fun to watch your videos and learn at the same time.
The plastic on the ground makes a huge difference...it will keep equipment and stuff dry inside. I have 4 various smaller shelter logic sheds and all have a vapour barrier on the floor and all is dry inside as far as all the stuff in there. Now Heating one with snow on top of it or in really cold temps then the drips will come back and only way around that is a liner around the inside.
The roller brand goes with Toy Story, so I'd go with it. Unless you'd rather go with Henry. I wouldn't have thought of the condensation factor with a building or the door fraying like that so I learned some lessons today.
Well Tim.... look at it this way... at least you figured it out BEFORE loading all of your racks & equipment in it! LOL I believe you'll need to put vents at the top of the two gable ends as well. Some large fans blowing on the stone a few dry days with all 4 doors open will help get rid of any moisture left in the stone. I don't think you should use HAMM on the top layer, it'll just destroy the plastic. I also would have doubled up the plastic & overlap each section by 2' (or used thicker plastic). How do the door zippers work? Do you need a 10' ladder to open & close them? Keep up the great work!
@@TractorTimewithTim I saw the rolling up and down but how do the 2 doors lock together and to the sides on the edges? zipper? velcro? I rewatch the video & didn't see that....
Have you seen the earlier episodes where we have explained all of that? If not, please check them out. If so, please ask a more specific question that I didn’t cover.
I know a tractor can tip over very easy and I know Avanti has a dealership in your area How about showing us a demo. Is it better? How about the flow rate? How about all the Avanti Attachments? Does Bobcat have as many? How about the Toolcart? Can it handle slopes at all. I know a fully decked out Toolcart or Avanti with multiple attachments can go 100k plus Is the versatility worth it?
An old timer concrete guy (70 years in the union & still working some!) told me that after spreading the gravel & compacting it, use a fertilizer spreader to put a thin layer of Portland cement & sprinkle with water to make it damp & compact it again. The gravel will harden up almost like poured concrete.
I just finished applying 33 ft steel roofing panels on one of my 14x32 round top shelters. I have had a couple of tarps last just over a year. For a little more than double a new tarp price I bought the steel. The galvalume steel has a 25 year warranty. I moved from Wisconsin to the Missouri Ozarks 4 years ago. The tarps do not stand up to the sunshine here enough to barely exceed the warranty. The structure is very sturdy. We have survived 75 mph winds, with heavy rain. The steel panels work ok here, but since they're installed horizontally I would have concerns about snow loads in Wisconsin.
Nice solution for the door edge! I don't have moisture issues with my 3 year old Shelter Logic, I guess it's only 10'x10' and I used scrap wood for a floor. At the bottom of the door I ran a length of heavy electrical conduit pipe thru the sleeve and at each end used 2 wood stakes to make a slot to hold it on place during windy conditions. It has yet to frey. Best Regards, Jay
Tim, that heart intervention got good results. I re watched older videos and it was a slow process to see you slow down, but now you look refreshed (renewed) and full of energy as years before. Keep up the good work! I had a good laugh with "ham". Compacting the soil before the plastic was a smart move.
That's a perfect size rolling compactor for smaller jobs! That's actually the size I would like to have.... Heavy enough to do the job but also maneuverable. Nice work!
Nice video Tim. I like your door bottom protection idea.
Perhaps without realizing it, your video is a example of the *Object Storage Paradox* Yeah, that’s really a thing.
Think back to those early CZcams videos when you lived in your previous home through today.
Below are the general steps of the Object Storage Paradox:
1 - You have some storage space but you have more items then storage space. You decide you need more space to store you stuff.
2 - To save money, you build a economical storage space such as a lean-to, or tent style space
3 - You realize the dirt floor is, well, dirty. You move up to gravel
4 - Its moist inside, so now you add a vapor barrier
5 - Its dark inside, so now you add some lights
6 - You want to charge batteries, maybe a engine block heater, so you add some power outlets
7 - The economical space doesn’t last. Its showing wear and you want something that will last. You swallow hard and spend money to rebuilt the entire thing as a basic, economical pole building
8 - You already spent so much on the pole building, it be a shame to not have a nice, smooth concrete floor
9 - You realize you could get some serious work done if it was insulated and heated.
10 - As you completed steps 1 through 9, you accumulated more stuff. Even since completing the building, you accumulated more stuff. The building was built to hold what you had, not all the stuff you now have. Now your nice, new stuff is sitting outside. You have so much stuff inside, you have to move stuff just to access other stuff. So, for all this new stuff, see step 1.
It happens to a lot of us. 👍
Thank you Tim for showing we all make mistakes or as I like to say, opportunities to make things better! Great video!
Thank you Tim for all the things you share and help us learn by example. I especially got a big boost from Psalm 143:7-8 it lifted me when I was extremely low!
I think correcting the problem is more important than worrying about making the mistake. Another good video guys.
For packing dirt/rock/gavel, you can get big ol' pull behind drum rollers that you fill with water to make 'em really heavy. The ones I've seen do not vibrate -vibrating is the best way to go- but they are inexpensive enough that they are something you could justify purchasing to have on hand. Just don't forget to drain the water when it's freezing season!
Good that you are putting plastic down. I have an enclosed crawl space under an addition on house. Paid to have dirt floor on crawl space encapsulated with special 20 mil moisture proof material.
6 mil may tear with stones on top as you drive equipment in and out. Maybe two or three layers.
Great 👍 👌 👍 job on the building 👏, hope you solve the water problem 😀 😉 👍.
I give Tim credit for hanging in there with this thing - I’d have lit it on fire about hour 3 of install.
Thanks for the tips, just put wet gravel in my 10x17 tractor port, now I know why it's raining inside. ;-)
Job well done Tim. You"ll notice a massive difference. Unless you add heat with snow on top then it drips again...warm moist hitting a cold surface = rain haha
Brilliant idea on the door bottoms
this will help me when I put in my new building, I will put down the plastic when I do the floor before the building goes up. Thanks Tim I am a Kubota guy but still Love your chanel! It doesn't matter what kind of equipment you have "just use it!" I love you and your family and the prayers at the end Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words, Robert!
Great idea for the door edge. I have the same problem. When I roll the door down I tie it up so it's a bit above the ground. I also filled the tubing that's suppied for the bottom pocket with sand. Helps keep to door more ridgid and roll up a little tighter. Some good advise might be to not use the door pullie blocks that are included with the door kit. My pullies were plastic and would stretch and cause the rope to bind while pulling the doors up. I changed them to 304 SS ones. I purchased the 20M SS single and double pully swivel blocks sold on Amazon. You will need one single and one double for each door. You would also need a 2.75 inch SS spring snap carabiner hook for each pully block that would hook into that 1" hole you sliced into the tarp. I felt a little queezy cutting them too...lol...these pullies will probably handle up to a 3/8" rope. I also changed the rope to a better quality one.
Also for those whom need to replace the tarps on your frames (especially under warranty) ShelterLogic likes to overcharge for shipping (I guess the girls work on commission) so beware. I live 2 hours from their Connecticut home and they wanted $200 for shipping for a 75lb replacement tarp. I reasoned with them and they charged me $125 to ship. Alot for what's included because the box arrived broken open. Cardboard wasn't that heavy duty. Good lluck Tim!
My pulleys are steel.
I had a professor who taught us that whether you were using gravel, stone , or concrete, to always lay down a sheet of plastic first.
Can you use eyelet or grommet kits where you made the slits in the fabric? Maybe that would help prevent anymore fraying. ??? Good idea with the PVC on the bottom to protect the fabric from wearing holes in it.
Thanks Tim for another great video.
P.S. For everyone watching this on this date (November 3rd, 2020) don't forget to vote.
It's your civic duty guys!
Thanks Joey - voted yesterday here in PA. The lines were long, but worth the wait!
Glad I found this series! Putting one up next summer….not this big tho!😮 18x24. Great point about moisture control! Never would have thought about it👍
Very important! Once we got the plastic down, no more condensation.
The tubes on the bottom of the doors fill them full of sand the fabric will roll up a lot neater
Hi Tim, there will probably still be some moisture coming from the Rock until it dries out. If you get some warm days open the ends and let the air flow through. This late in the season it may not fully dry.
My shelter is not that big but one thing they do is sweat, put vents on both ends over doors for air flow it will take care of it. Make sure you size vents to the size of the building.
Great idea for the bottoms of those doors. If Shelter Logic uses that idea, they should be providing a royalty to you! :-)
Sadly enough I have found companies don't take people's ideas due to lawsuits. All they have to do is make the person sign a disclaimer 🤦♂️
The PVC pipe mod is brilliant! No doubt it’ll work.
Thanks Tim. Always enjoy your adventures.
Great idea. I put PVC inside the slot because the metal pipe shelter logic gives you will rust. So with plastic inside and over the outside, it would give you a stain-free set up.
Mom always said: "It's never too late to do the right thing."
Fascinating! Love the content!
We all make mistakes Tim. At least you found out before it was to late. Have a wonderful day thanks for sharing
Thanks Tim for explaining the reason for so much moisture. The building we had rained in side making a major mess. We added vents that helped but didn't eliminate the moisture. Didn't think of the floor as cause of moisture.
That idea with the pipe at the bottom of the flaps was INGENIOUS !!! Great idea.
The KEY for effective box blading is NOT the 3 point control - its the top link adjustment! Put the 3 point in float and adjust your cut with the hydraulic top link. That'll do 90% of what you need.
Good idea too fix it now and great information for others putting up a similar shelter.
Tim , It’s good you caught it otherwise you would’ve had a major problem with mold.
Tim the plastic will help with moisture coming up from the ground. But I believe you are still going to have the "sweating" from the cover. Now you have just created an aquarium with no place for the water to go. I hope it will work but I would not put anything directly on the ground, use pallets and just store items that you are trying to keep out of the sun. It may be a sauna inside.
Well if he keeps both ends partially open it will air out 🤞 (let's hope)
I may end up leaving the doors open.
I guess you were A-frayed to put a slit in the canvas. Great thinking with that PVC pipe. You may still need to put some type of venting in to keep the condensation down.
Good video. Nice to have help👍
great idea on the pipe slit and installed on the bottom. I like that roller compactor very nice machine.
Genius idea with the PVC pipe for the edge of the tarp. Some things are so simple you wonder why someone didn't think of that already.
I think you have a very good solution for the chaffing of the canvas, and the plastic will help with the moisture.
Hi Tim and Christy nice job
Looked like a fun project to work on, you guys did look tired at the end 🥴😂, have a good week!
Nice video tim we all make mistakes hope it works well, HAM is a nice machine 👍👍
Well done guys.
I have a smaller building for my 4052r. I find the door kits to be less then stellar. I would plan a wood end with sliding doors.
It would be interesting to see a roller attachment for the tractors. Also, the pvc pipe trick was brilliant!
Adam. Andrew caramata just posted a video of a skidsteer mounted roller. Not sure if it could be tractor friendly.
@@darrindunn8707 it could be if you have a skid steer quick attach and a hydraulic on the front. May have to get a PTO powered hydraulic unit to have the proper flow. My 6075 mahindra has the weight of a skidsteer for the down preassure.
Good Morning Tim!!
Experience in using 6 mil plastic under gravel for radio tower bases-use tarpaper over the plastic-it is less liable to be pictured by the gravel-and esp when you are using heavy equipment on the plastic.The weight will cause the plastic to be punctured.For the AM radio tower base the plastic,tarpaper,gravel covered the copper ground screens under the tower base-you haven’t lived when you are connecting the ground radials to the base copper sheet with the station on air-sparks and from burned fingers-did at low power !
Great ideal for the anti skid poles is it getting cold up yalls way cold mornings an upper 70s this week have a day love from TEXAS
When will the kitty be getting a new playmate? I don't even like cats, but have enjoyed watching them on your channel.
We have a kitten now...not very spunky.
Good idea on that guard for the bottom of the door.
Out of curiosity do you mind doing a follow up review of the building and adding the plastic under the stone? I'm looking at going with a similar structure for equipment storage.
When you’re all done, what will you do to keep the dust down? Lots of ppl will just spray a light coat of oil/tar but it’s dirty and smells. My landscape material supplier uses tree sap. A light coat of sprayed tree sap somewhat seal the floor, keeps the dust down, and smells like a sugar shack for some time until it hardens. Pretty good if you can get your hands on some of that.
Enjoyed the video
Great video my friend
Tim and Crew never saw a roller like that maybe look into renting for lawn roller thanks
God Bless All
PaK
Please give us an update in the future, I'm curious about what the difference will be.
It could be a series now Part 1 , Part 2, Part 3 etc
At 13:02 Cat says: "What are you people doing in MY sandbox?"
It was good logic to roll the stone beneath the plastic to minimize the sharp edges piercing the plastic. The problem is that you then put gravel with sharp edges on top of it. Driving and rolling the top layer will drive the gravel into the plastic. And that will continue with use over time because of the tractor traffic. I think you needed either 25 or 26 mil thick (pool liner thick) plastic or 1/4" foam (floor underlayment) to survive the gravel. Good luck!
If the fabric wants to slip out of the PVC slit, simply insert 1/2" or 3/4" PVC pipe inside the loop with your 1 1/2" slit pipe outside the loop, it can't pull out and is light weight.
Hey tim. Next time your box blading and moving big amounts like that, fill the bucket with rock too, it’ll help the tractor pull a lot better. I seen him spinning out a time or 2. Just a friendly tip.
I noticed this problem the other day with my 10x17. I haven’t decided if I’m going to try the plastic on bottom thing.
If u put a cheap thin tarp on the inside of the tent roof u get less condensation and it prevent it from dripping down.
I found that landscape rakes, or a concrete puller that's has a straight edge on it
Well Tim who would have thought it I didn't. We don't make a learning mistake if we don't do something. I don't like those I told you so's. If I new it would have happened I would have told you. You fix it and thats that. God bless.
I just did a double take that big roller used to belong to a company from right down the road from me in VA
I wonder if the roof could benefit from some kind of "ridge venting"? Not at all sure if this is even possible with a tarp covering kind of structure. Maybe some high up vents in the end walls?
I had the same problem to solve most of that problem is to leave both doors rolled half way up to get some air flow.
So your hamming it up today!
I have a smaller shelter Logic and I got some vents from them.I do not know if that would help you with the condensation worth a try,
Tim, Moisture is constantly rising up from the ground. Your tent trapped it. The moisture barrier you put in should solve the problem. I have seen this with metal buildings and concrete floors. Even with concrete you need a vapor barrier. I have seen in a metal building a horizontal line of water on everything from 3 feet down with a plainly visible mist/fog in the air, it was really weird. This why you should NEVER tarp something outside , it is better to let it get rained on because it will dry.
Also, GREAT !! idea with the pvc pipe. You can do the 'smarty pants dance'. (look it up on YT)
Art
Seems like a pole barn would be so much easier.
Not sure about easier. Would still need the floor like this to avoid condensation.
fray : gromlet ( slit style) or use ca glue on edges.
If that works you should let the manufacturer of the shed. They may use it as a good idea.
How do I get one of those 3rd rear functions for the box scraper
Pvc pipe should work perfectly for the bottom fraying.
The name Hamm that I know is in my family. That clear plastic won't last will it? Around my house when I put river rock I used the black stuff they use at nurseries pretty stuff stuff. Good luck with your stuff!
Hey Tim, contact the manufacturer of the shed to make sure the fabric isn't going to react with the chlorine in the pvc and deteriorate it further.
Hmm, I wonder about water coming in from the ends when it is raining and the door is blowing in and out, then you have water sitting on top of the plastic. Do you have any slope from the middle out?
I'll be looking forward to the long term review on this structure. At this point, I'm thinking that money should have went to a permanent solution. I understand you were pleased with the small version but this is a lot more money and work. Doesn't appear it will give appropriate service compared to the investment. Hope you will follow up maybe at the one year mark and again later if you still have it.
We will definitely follow up.
Such a ham 😂
Sweet, first thumbs up!
It wouldn't have occurred to me that the moisture would be coming up through that stone! you learn something new every day .
If you are concerned about the slits you cut in the door apply Tear Mender it will stop fraying
I’m no contractor or anything and I know it’s cheaper reusing the stone but could you have put the plastic down and then another layer of new stone over it to hold the moisture down and then possibly pour a slab of concrete for the finish floor
Suggestion: add a solar powered ventilation fan to keep the humidity down. 🤔
I know nothing about most of this stuff, but I'm not convinced the plastic will make that much difference. Cold surfaces will condense moisture from the air when it warms up, no? If your main shed wasn't heated, it would do the same.
The roller should be called BURGER! lol
Always fun to watch your videos and learn at the same time.
The plastic on the ground makes a huge difference...it will keep equipment and stuff dry inside. I have 4 various smaller shelter logic sheds and all have a vapour barrier on the floor and all is dry inside as far as all the stuff in there.
Now Heating one with snow on top of it or in really cold temps then the drips will come back and only way around that is a liner around the inside.
Looks like you may have nipped a problem in the bud. You should have great weather this week to leave those doors open, and let the rock dry out.
The roller brand goes with Toy Story, so I'd go with it. Unless you'd rather go with Henry. I wouldn't have thought of the condensation factor with a building or the door fraying like that so I learned some lessons today.
Well Tim.... look at it this way... at least you figured it out BEFORE loading all of your racks & equipment in it! LOL I believe you'll need to put vents at the top of the two gable ends as well. Some large fans blowing on the stone a few dry days with all 4 doors open will help get rid of any moisture left in the stone. I don't think you should use HAMM on the top layer, it'll just destroy the plastic. I also would have doubled up the plastic & overlap each section by 2' (or used thicker plastic). How do the door zippers work? Do you need a 10' ladder to open & close them?
Keep up the great work!
We showed the door action in this episode.
@@TractorTimewithTim I saw the rolling up and down but how do the 2 doors lock together and to the sides on the edges? zipper? velcro? I rewatch the video & didn't see that....
Ah, ok. Didn’t understand the question, sorry.
There are zippers and a few chain hook type things to hold it. Not perfect for sure.
They (the slits in the door fabric) don't fray. I've had mine for six years.
Tim, is that crushed limestone you put down?
How is your leaf vac system working for you. Will you be doing a follow up video?
Yes, we will get it out next week. It works beautifully. We will try it on the 2038t this time!
@@TractorTimewithTim I am curious if you have any type of plugging up and can the lead vac system can handle the mower deck leaves and grass
No issues with plugging. We have shown with grass and leaves in the past. Check out the older episodes. Playlist may be named ‘Superior Tech’ ...
Is this shelter a protype their letting u use and have because I'm sunsure as of yet on its use
Have you seen the earlier episodes where we have explained all of that? If not, please check them out. If so, please ask a more specific question that I didn’t cover.
Tim, why did you decide to go with this shelter logic enclosure instead of a steel building?
Watch the earlier videos on the construction of the shelterlogic. We explain it all in detail there. Thanks.
You need to get a speed blade
I know a tractor can tip over very easy and I know Avanti has a dealership in your area
How about showing us a demo. Is it better?
How about the flow rate? How about all the Avanti Attachments? Does Bobcat have as many?
How about the Toolcart? Can it handle slopes at all.
I know a fully decked out Toolcart or Avanti with multiple attachments can go 100k plus
Is the versatility worth it?
I've had two large shelter logics and have no success. They are not a very permanent solution. I hope you have more success then I did
How do you not have the paint worn off of them loader buckets with all the work you do with them tractors
Learn sumik new everyday