Two things come to mind: 1) WELD THROUGH PRIMER (yes, I’m shouting), copper is best, melting/smoking zinc is poisonous. None of that sheet metal appears to have the E-coating that is typically on late model replacement panels. You don’t want to be welding rust into your new car. And: 2)Get your doors now. Ideally original parts. Tack them in place and leave them there until you are ready to hang them on hinges. I’ve seen “rotisserie” rebuilds that were done without doors on. When the car was put back on wheels on the ground the door opening wasn’t close to being the right shape. These cars were pretty flexible when new in 1967 so any temporary bracing your thinking of adding while under construction is best done sooner rather than later. Cool project. Especially with Ford licensed parts and a 1967 VIN. I still like the notchbacks too. Look for an 8.8 rear end from a 90’s Thunderbird Supercoupe. Fully independent, disc brakes, and the substructure will tighten up the whole car.
Nice project...I myself just picked up a clean title ‘66 coupe and looking to do the same conversion. It’s pretty rusty so I’m thinking other than saving the dash, doors and inner vin stamped fenders just going all new metal. Also, your technique for checking square on the floor was great-if I go this route I’ll do the same. Not sure it even matters as much if you’re doing a 4-link system.
Fantastic attention to detail. Question - Does the metal come rust protected from the factory? Put a different way, do you rust protect the inner structure before final assembly?
Thanks for sharing I was interested in getting one someday glad to know it’s not as straight forward as I’d think it would be. Just curious can they preweld for you?
I am planning on going through this right now. with 50K views you are on to something. Those of us taking the next step need the guidance. How is it going? are you still working on this project? I realize I am late to the party.... RP
If you don't already, you should watch Peterson Restorations CZcams channel. He specializes in restoring early mustangs. He's based out of Harrisburg PA
Was you able to buy all the all the mustang body parts direct from Dynacorn? If possibel i will go from sweden to CA and buy a bidy kit ! Hope this corona soon will be history! Very nice project you have ! Lars in Stockholm
How much have you spent on the metal work, including the Floorplan? I'm ready to pull the trigger on a built body shell from year one, 22k with trunk and doors.
Great project! Just curious why you didn't buy an entire Dynacorn body shell and transfer over the VIN and any salvageable parts? Cost? Desire to do it yourself? Or...?
Hey Jeff! Short story: I was originally rebuilding a coupe but ended up with the conversion pieces anyway. Buying the shell would have been the way to go!
Keep in mind these part are made overseas. I determined that the parts are stamped using a different metal thickness. Meaning radius and contour will differ a bit. I bet your doors and rear window won't fit at all.
I'm curious myself. My brother keeps talking about these Dynacorn bodies. He thinks it's cheaper than buying an already made Mustang, but I'm not too sure on that front.
Two things come to mind: 1) WELD THROUGH PRIMER (yes, I’m shouting), copper is best, melting/smoking zinc is poisonous. None of that sheet metal appears to have the E-coating that is typically on late model replacement panels. You don’t want to be welding rust into your new car. And:
2)Get your doors now. Ideally original parts. Tack them in place and leave them there until you are ready to hang them on hinges.
I’ve seen “rotisserie” rebuilds that were done without doors on. When the car was put back on wheels on the ground the door opening wasn’t close to being the right shape.
These cars were pretty flexible when new in 1967 so any temporary bracing your thinking of adding while under construction is best done sooner rather than later.
Cool project. Especially with Ford licensed parts and a 1967 VIN. I still like the notchbacks too.
Look for an 8.8 rear end from a 90’s Thunderbird Supercoupe. Fully independent, disc brakes, and the substructure will tighten up the whole car.
Great to see you back. Looking forward to watching the progress. I’m at the beginning of a ‘67 S code Fastback restoration.
good to see back
Nice project...I myself just picked up a clean title ‘66 coupe and looking to do the same conversion. It’s pretty rusty so I’m thinking other than saving the dash, doors and inner vin stamped fenders just going all new metal. Also, your technique for checking square on the floor was great-if I go this route I’ll do the same. Not sure it even matters as much if you’re doing a 4-link system.
Great video! And attention to detail!
Dude, if you can do this, you can do anything. Love it! //ji
super bien détailler merci et bravo
Fantastic attention to detail. Question - Does the metal come rust protected from the factory? Put a different way, do you rust protect the inner structure before final assembly?
Very nice jobs 👍
i cant believe it its gonna be brand spanking new
Thanks for sharing I was interested in getting one someday glad to know it’s not as straight forward as I’d think it would be. Just curious can they preweld for you?
"rain channels" seems like you invented a new name for drip rails and trunk trim piece is called a rear deck filler panel
I am planning on going through this right now. with 50K views you are on to something. Those of us taking the next step need the guidance. How is it going? are you still working on this project? I realize I am late to the party.... RP
its a great video
Where did you buy the shell? Were you happy with the quality?
Are we going to see more videos about this new car?
If you don't already, you should watch Peterson Restorations CZcams channel. He specializes in restoring early mustangs. He's based out of Harrisburg PA
how did you learn how to build cars this way were you an autobody tech, books, or any other materials.
finished the project?
Was you able to buy all the all the mustang body parts direct from Dynacorn? If possibel i will go from sweden to CA and buy a bidy kit ! Hope this corona soon will be history! Very nice project you have ! Lars in Stockholm
I ordered most of the pieces through CJ pony
so is this less expensive than dynocorn body? looking good
How much have you spent on the metal work, including the Floorplan?
I'm ready to pull the trigger on a built body shell from year one, 22k with trunk and doors.
About $7,000. I had the doors from the 67 coupe
@Strokers Garage how much did you spend on the whole project and do you think it was worth it?
@@bryanslexI wanted to ask same question
Great project! Just curious why you didn't buy an entire Dynacorn body shell and transfer over the VIN and any salvageable parts? Cost? Desire to do it yourself? Or...?
Hey Jeff!
Short story: I was originally rebuilding a coupe but ended up with the conversion pieces anyway. Buying the shell would have been the way to go!
Keep in mind these part are made overseas. I determined that the parts are stamped using a different metal thickness. Meaning radius and contour will differ a bit. I bet your doors and rear window won't fit at all.
Is there an update on this?
how long did it take to put this all together by yourself?
I'm curious myself. My brother keeps talking about these Dynacorn bodies. He thinks it's cheaper than buying an already made Mustang, but I'm not too sure on that front.
Did you give up?
Do u commercially build these shells for sale or just making one for your own hobby?
Hey! I do not make these commercially
@@StrokersGarage thank u for replying. I have a 69 coupe.. I wish I could convert it into a fastback somehow..
😍😍😍👏👏👏
You would think that foe $3500, they would brace it fir the fork lift with 2 2x4s!?
Using a 3 line laser is more acurate. IMHO.
Popping sound is no big deal bro
This is not worth that long