@@KerryWongBlogyes, but that's how it comes apart and how they put it together, the display is plugged in after the board is attached to the chassis then it's screwed to the chassis, so you have to do that in reverse order to take it apart
I was thinking the same thing. Unscrew the display, and hopefully the cable can be disconnected from the display. Or maybe the display can slide to allow more ribbon to extend below the shield to unplug from the main board.
Normaly you would only need to remove the display if it was to replace a broken display. Then you would just take out the 4 screws, and disconnect it, connect the new display, and Bob's your uncle. A total teardown is probably not something they plan for a user to do...
Very interesting Kerry. Glad you didn't risk damaging that LCD flex cable for the other side. It seems somewhat basic compared to others but nicely designed.
Thanks for posting. One thing I have learned over the years a lot of these manufacturers are very proprietary. They offer very little documentation. Your thoughts?
Remove the LCD, flip it forward and remove the cable from the LCD itself.
It would be far more easier if the flatflex is a couple of inches longer.
@@KerryWongBlogyes, but that's how it comes apart and how they put it together, the display is plugged in after the board is attached to the chassis then it's screwed to the chassis, so you have to do that in reverse order to take it apart
I was thinking the same thing. Unscrew the display, and hopefully the cable can be disconnected from the display. Or maybe the display can slide to allow more ribbon to extend below the shield to unplug from the main board.
Normaly you would only need to remove the display if it was to replace a broken display.
Then you would just take out the 4 screws, and disconnect it,
connect the new display, and Bob's your uncle.
A total teardown is probably not something they plan for a user to do...
I believe that you need to remove the display in order to be able to disconnect the cable.
Cheers !
Thank you!
Thank you. Good clear detailed explanation.
This is a serious manufacturer, it doesn't erase the IC's markings!
The RC0820 is a THGBMNG5D1LBAIL e-MMC from Toshiba.
It has 4GB of storage. No, I don't know why the important part number is last.
Very interesting Kerry. Glad you didn't risk damaging that LCD flex cable for the other side. It seems somewhat basic compared to others but nicely designed.
Same screws sony uses in the ps5. Only theres like 40.
I've always like Uni-T stuff. They even have a sub-$200 50Mhz scope!
The channel tolerances must be good, each set of trimmers were pretty much exactly in the same positions. 😎
should i buy this scope as my first "discrete scope"?
Thanks for posting. One thing I have learned over the years a lot of these manufacturers are very proprietary. They offer very little documentation. Your thoughts?
The new Rigols are so nice I could not see buying a Uni-T. Thank you
Simply remove display first.
splendid useless video