HOW TO : Outlander ZG 40mm Lift kit
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- How to give your Outlander ZG model (and probably others) 40mm lift using spacers.
You'll need a good selection of tools including a jack and jack stands (or a hoist) and some decent (safe) spring compressors.
This kit cost me $300 all up (in 2 parts)
you'll need a wheel alignment afterwards, and I strongly recommend camber bolts as it gives extra positive camber.
Thanks for watching.
Glad i stumbled on this video grate guide 👍 when i fit studs if wont go in i stick a socket and washer on the other side and buzz the nut on with a gun work in my case all time 😃
Mint! been looking for a how to video for the longest time. Thank you!
Done mine 1 year ago yep you need camber adj bolts up front and arms on the rear. Looks great and handles great replaced bearings , rotors, pads, springs, shocks all in one go. Sitting up on steelies with all terrains VRX OUTLANDER V6.
Hi mate, could you please advise on the camber bolts and arms that you installed after the lift? Got any link on ebay or slecifications? Thanks
@@vivekbhandhoo6354 look at hardrace performance parts for rear camber arms ( I'm pretty sure my was off a mitsi Lancer)
The front ones are just camber bolts, - superpro camber adjustment bolts. I can't attach any photos here but if you send your email I can send you some photos. Cheers
@@ariavgos8195 I would really appreciate if you could send me the pictures, planning to have all the parts before going to the mechanic. Please send them to vb0907@hotmail.com
Thanks mate.
Same here! When done right, it completely changes the outtie for the better.
4:40 onwards.
Instead of bashing the begezus out of the bolt head, causing damage to the hole's internal angles (by the wobbling around of the new stud as you beat the turds out of it), and by the jaw clamps causing some distortion on the active cylinder walls of the main shaft, use a PRESS, even a drill press with that "tire-punch" inserted as if a drill bit, you can simply PRESS the new stud slowly into it's serrated seat.
NO DAMAGE to either the stud head, or to the cylinder walls themselves, or to any other component of the McPherson Strut that you may be doing damage too, by rough handling the unit whilst bashing the turds out of the stud head, by using THE WRONG TECHNIQUE for pushing (pressing) new studs into old holes.
I did what it took to get the job done. The average home mechanic doesn’t have the correct / recommended tools.
I have done this on my 2008 Outie and I have 84 cm front and rear measured from the ground up to the wheelarches.
I kept my 18” original rims and fitted Falken Wildpeak AT3Wa 235/60 (Rubitrek in the US) since they are approved for all year use which is important since I live in Sweden.
Where others get stuck on their belly in the snow I have no issues at all.
Back camber is easily solved with the rear adjustment bolt/arm and front works perfect with making the hole just as you described.
Furthermore I needed to shorten the rear swaybarlinks 15 mm. I just cut it off and then welded back again. Front also has to be shortened by 10 mm but there I bought universal adjustable swaybarlinks. Frontlinks should measure 255 mm.
I’ve had this setup for a year and a half now and am very satisfied with it.
Sounds great. Looks like you’ve done everything required to correct the geometry. I sold my car last week and fancy a change. Looking at possibly a Forester or Outback. There seems to be plenty of aftermarket lift kits for them.
Hi matey, I’ve used the same lift kit and new camber bolts, so camber is within specs. However, it feels like caster is off as the steering feels loose when going at high speed (80km+). Do you think the front drop links , which are the original ones, could be the problem?
Cheers
Yes that’s the problem, original in front is to long and need to be 225 mm instead of the original at 265 mm. Rear droplinks need to be 50mm , then you get the caster right.
19:40
It's about this time, when you REPLACE that stuffed rubber boot too. as it's way past it's use-by date, allowing dirt onto the inner pipe sleeve, and for the inner hydraulic oil to leak out onto everything down below, including the disc rotors.. (oops no brakes some day)
Hello! Great tutorial!!! I bought recently a 2016 Outlander 3.0 litre engine and would like to lift it. Can you please make a video of camber bolts installation, so the alignment can be done properly after that? Or just quickly write about this for us!
I would also appreciate if you can make a video regarding the tires, wheels, sizes, how much off-set etc.
Greatly appreciate your work!!
I still need to correct my rear. I cheated on the front by elongating the holes where the shock mounts to the hub to give me some camber adjustments
Update on mine, I lowered it 40mm instead. The lift just wore out every bushing and was a nightmare to align. (I have oversized tyres too) stock with stiffer rear coil springs if you want to lift it in the rear. Part number kyb-ra6227. Then larger tires and you will have a 2 inch lift total. Not worth the spacers for. The extra inch or 2.
Nice work, and great video.
Assuming you can get the same lift from either spacers, or longer coils, which option would you choose?
I’m looking at +30mm H&R coils, which to me seem like a better option, but I’m no pro.
Coils would be better option but only with shocks as still using standard shocks means standard down travel. Adding 40mm spacers gives 40mm lift and gives 40mm more down travel.
great video....
I spoke to someone who did it. They said the steel spring rubbing on the urethane spacer was wearing it away over time, thus reducing the height. I wonder if some grease in there might help
Mine has squished slightly, like it's been bedded in. Only on the rear as it is in direct contact with the coil. Still solid, height hasn't dropped because I am running heavy duty rear springs to maintain the lift and improving handling, towing, etc
Although saying that, they are rubber. They will eventually wear out and need replacing. Like a service part. Steel ones I imagine would be good for longevity, but very rigged and likely to cause other components to wear out faster/make all sorts of noises on the rear.
I donne 50mm in my 2009. Using spacer made in aluminum by Ritter. I need to change the front tie rods to VW Polo 2009 (brazil model). They are about 1cm longer.
Nice work man. How did you go getting the alignment on the rear with 50mm?
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 Hi! I made in a local shop near my house. They have alignment machine with laser that helps to get it. As I remember the result after the lift was a little off the maximum tolerate. Because of this I need to change the front tires with rear ones more times (each 10k kms). In drive the car fells totally normal.
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 I put some videos using my outlander in "light offroad" in my channel.
@@x.trailcwb1546 I’ll have a look. Cheers
Got a question for you. Would stacking a handful of washers on the nut side and then tightening down the nut have worked for seating the extended bolts in the shock?
Yes. I don’t see why not
What if I did the front ones without those white markings mate? Mine seems to have slight camber issue. I ordered spacers after watching your video but there was a few months gap between buying and installing 😁
Please help
You don’t need to mark it. You’ll work out how it goes. It’s just easier that way to avoid any confusion
I'm considering doing this to my 2012. I'm not intending on making a serious off road machine but a bit more ground clearance and maybe bigger tires would be beneficial for the little bit that I do. Was there any effect (positive/negative) on ride quality? Being my daily driver I need to make sure it passes the wife test before I put in the time/money :)
I had a driveline vibration which I’m still trying to pinpoint, and the lift exaggerated this. But the actual ride quality is not sacrificed. It drives just the same
Hi there, nice work ! I like it 👍
Would this set fit on a PHEV model ???
Thanks for information !
I think so. As far as I’m aware all outlanders and ASX use the same generic platform. Unless the rear is different on the phev due to the batteries
You didn't have to do a diff drop to help keep all the CV joints and everything else in the suspension happy?
No. Any higher and I recon you would
Thank you for such informative video mate, where can I get this kit from? Thank you
Company called Tema4x4 they sell on eBay
Unfortunately my 07 Outlander now shakes when I accelerate after I installed my lift kit. It also made torque steering to the left more noticeable.
Have you done a wheel alignment?
If so, your cv joints may be worn and lifting it has put more load on them
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 I did the alignment and replace motor mounts and an axle that was bad.
The mechanic said it’s because of the spacers and how it stresses the suspension. Did you experienced anything like that?
I kept the oem springs and struts though.
@@thunderwolf8052 I did. I put new CV joints in. I also cut my front spacers down to 30mm but that was to level the car out a bit more. It looked and drive great afterward
9:40
I hate the way BUSH mechanics attempt seriously dangerous manoeuvres - such as this, especially when leaving their FACE, directly inline with the direction that the spring will go UNDER SOME COMPRESSION, as you struggle to refit it to the lower suspension arm, at such an awfully step angle, should it slip out and smack you full in the face as it whizzes past.
For goodness sake, do as you SAID you were going to do, and remove the INNER bearing bolt, to allow the arm to drop "correctly" down without angling the bottom of the spring inwards whereby it could easily slip the foot, outwards...
Destroying any soft flesh on the way..
If you had released the arm swing bolt, (at the inner end) the entire swing arm could have simply been raised FLAT to refit the spring into position..
HOWEVER you did it all wrong, from the get go.
As you never COMPRESSED the spring fully, nor did you fit spring compression clamps either side of the spring, when under compression, as then it would have been an easy drop, without the spring extending as far as it did.
For a mechanics workshop, you seemed to have ZERO tools of the correct type, to do that job.
The very least tool is a spring compression clamp (or preferably two)
did you use a relocation bracket for the strut link of the front suspension?
Hi. I’m not sure what you mean by strut link. If you mean for the sway bar / anti roll bar then no
Can I ask if you're a mechanic (since you seem to be in a workshop)?
I'm in Perth and have just bought a 2017 Outlander and see that the Tema4x4 kits are still available (and seemingly for this model).
What would you charge for the install?
Hi there. I had a day booked off and went into work to install it. So it’s not really a job I’d take on for someone else. I’d recommend Pedders or Wilkinson’s.
Where did you get the spring spacers? Do you have any links cant seem to find them anywhere thank you
Go on eBay and search seller Tema4x4 that’s where all my parts were from.
In ebay we faoubd kits without spring spacers ? We have 7 seater 2.2 hdi european spec. In Europe a lot of kita have only spacers for shocks
Some models have a different type of rear suspension
I own an 2016 GLS 3.0 V6 model and plan to add this lift kit. Please advise on the recommended wheel sizes. Currently its 18 inch with 225/55/R18 tires. Thanks.
18” limits your tyre choice. I went with 17” rims and 225/65 tyres (slightly bigger than standard) check out my other video - Falcon rims.
I have done this with my mitubishi outlander 2007 4x4 mk2, but i have an issue whit the front wheel hub, i have a lot of positive camber , like 2 degrees. You don't notice that on your mitubishi ?
Also i have a lot of vibration when i put the 2 gear or when i go up hill
My front sat higher than the rear and I had a vibration under acceleration. I cut the front spacers down so the front sat level. I also elongated the holes for my strut mounts in order to give it a bit of camber adjustment. After this and a wheel alignment everything was good.
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 how much material do you cut form front spacer ? 1 or 2 cm it is enough ? also i drilled the fornt supesion hole and bought a camber bolts and resolve the camber problem, but in acceleration in 2nd gaer under accelaration give a little vibration.
@@LuigiMaddaluno21 hi there. I can’t remember how much exactly I cut off but it was around 1 third.
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 in millimiter ?
@@LuigiMaddaluno21 can’t remember. So whatever the spacer depth is divided by 3!
Can we supply the product
I just out a 40mm lift on my 17 outlander sport. And now my swy bar links hit. Any suggestions on sway bar links?
Not sure on that one mate I’m guessing it’s different from mine as I had no issue with mine. Maybe you’ll need longer links
the price for lift kit 40 mm, Outlander 2008
I can’t remember. The screenshot of the eBay ad is in the video. Just search them guys up on eBay. They’re in Russia
hi I have just recently bought the exact same kit from the same seller on eBay, for my Mitsubishi ASX/RVR/outlander sport. anyways I went to have installed at my local mechanic, and was told that if it was installed the spacers that they would throw the car out of alignment and not be able to realign the car, I was also told that it would make my brand new tires wear out in less than six months, as well as ruin ball joints and lower control arms and would be a short amount of time till they would need to be replaced. so I told him to forget it and not to put them in. now I'm just wondering if I should believe this guy or should I be able to have them installed without causing premature damage to the car ? I really wanted to have them installed but he sure made me believe that I shouldn't!
would a camber bolt fix these issues if he is right ? and where would I get a camber bolt?
any feedback is great appreciated thank you so much !!! cheers!
Ryan Carey Boychuk hi mate. They are correct on the alignment. And the alignment being out will prematurely wear the tyres. If you get camber bolts installed (I’m still needing to do this) the alignment will be good.
The balljoint comment is a load of bullshit. Balljoints and control arm bushes wear with movement. You will be getting exactly the same movement as before, just in a different spot. Take it to a place that specialises in tyres and alignment as they’ll do a better job than your average mechanic
You can buy camber bolts on eBay or through any decent suspension place.
PERTHSCOOTER07 thanks a lot for you feed back !!!
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 can you please share a link from ebay for camber bolts?
I raised my outlander 30mm and have a rear positive camber
@@roeymaor9824 even with 30mm you need camber bolts ? I’m wondering if 20mm will be Enough ..I want keep my stock wheels/tire combo
Hello guys. I had just fit this lift kit, and I have an issue with the rear untiroll bar. Also front stabilizer links now need to be shorter than normal. Did you find this kind of problem? And if I deleted the rear untiroll bar, am I going to loose to much stability in the road? Thanks in advance.
I didn’t have this problem. Removing the rear won’t make a massive difference. It’s the front one that does
That's what my mechanic told me in fact, that the aft untiroll bar, won't do a lot of difference without it. Thanks for your reply. 👍
screed for rear springs was not destined to use ? FORCE 627370
is this a cosmetic lift or it has some performance enhancement to it?
It’s so I can fit bigger tyres for off road
Can you stack these spacers for double the lift? I want to lift my first gen Outlander about 8-10cm
The driveshafts won’t handle it. You’ll have to look at a custom subframe drop
Thanks. I am not sure about dropping the subframe. Maybe that the 40mm lift kit and bigger tires are enough.
@@workermaster1 if you need bigger than that then look at Subura. The Outback’s seem to be able to be lifted more than Outlander
Hey, i have bought the same lift kit for my zg outie 2008 and i live in perth maybe you can help me to get it done.
Hey bud. Sorry but I took a day off work to do mine. Would love to help but just way too busy. More than happy to offer help and advice over messages though.
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 would you happen to know or reckon any shop who can do it here? Thanks for the time and reply. Appreciate it.
Is this kit compatible for a 2003 mitsubishi outlander ls 2dw?
Sorry I’m not sure. You’d have to check with the supplier
Kept the front lift in the end on my outlander, installed adjustable sway bar links so handling is much better and big tires
czcams.com/video/cC8JWM8k1WY/video.html
Can I use bilstein b4 front gas struts with this set up? Thanks
I don’t see why not. Go for it
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 thanks for reply mate. Can I ask where you got the heavy duty rear springs? 👍
@@leothelegend8201 hi. I had standard springs front and rear. It was just spring spacers in the rear
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 just watched video again mate and I see what you mean. I will keep you posted on my progress mate. Be prepared for loads more random questions 😂😂😂
How much would a mechanic should charge to get that job done?
Probably 4 hours labour give or take
Would I be able to still do a wheel alignment after installing this kit?
Yes. Rear is hard to get within spec though
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 do I need to buy any other parts to get the rear close to oem specs?
@@ready2ridef4i20 you can buy rear camber bolts and that should do the trick
Do you have the link for this kit ?
San Diego &Los Angeles 2018 www.ebay.com.au/itm/112986261745
Does this lift kit work for asx 2011??
Yes I believe they’re the same platform
Can I get this for my Mitsubishi Outlander Rx?
What year is it? I think most of the outlanders use the same platform so I’m guessing yes. But can’t be 100% sure. The company I bought from go off the Japanese model code
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 I have a 2010 Outlander Rx
@@hamrollwithcheese4705 you should be able to get that kit. You just need to get the right kit depending if it has separate coil and shock or a coil over setup
SHOCKY ??????????????
Haha. Aussie term. Shock absorber.