5 Car Myths You Actually Can Fall For | Proven OR Debunked? Part 1
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- A Master Automobile Mechanic Shares 5 Common Car Myths that you should know if they are true or false.
In this video we talk about common car myths that many car owners actually believe and some car myths that are believed to be myths but they are actually true.
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0:00 Intro
0:29 1st Myth
2:14 2nd Myth
4:35 3rd Myth
6:33 4th Myth
9:41 5th Myth - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I am an older guy. I will be 74 in a few weeks and grew up in the 1950's and 1960's. In my day, almost all guys fell into one of two catagories. Either you were from a family that was very well off and you could afford to take your car to a mechanic for every little thing or you were like most of us and learned from experience how to maintain your car without paying someone else to do the work. My step father owned several service stations. This was before the convenience stores and self service. i learned how to change oil, lube a chassis, replace plugs and points, set timing adjust brakes, (yes, you had to adjust brakes on older cars). We learned to drive long before we were old enough to have drivers licenses. Cars were dangerous. My first two cars did not have seat belts. My first car was a 1953 Ford with a flathead and overdrive. It was not even a 12 volt system. The wipers were vacuum opereated which meant the only time they worked was when you let off the gas, lol. We all learned to drive on standard 3 speed transmissions. None of us had power steering or brakes. It was a lot different back then, but I would not trade the experience I got for anything. It was my teenage years that turned me into the gear head that I am today. Trust me, the technicians today need to have a different skill set than the old time mechanics. If my Honda Accord or my Toyota pickup would just stop and there was gas in the tank, i would need to take it to the shop like everyone else, but the opportunity to understand the internal combustion engine and how it powers a car is somethig I am eternally grateful for.
Всё что я знаю по машинам, я научился от дяди (родной брат матери и ему было бы 76 в этом году😥) Приятно вспоминать детские впечатления занятия с автомобилем, мотоциклом. 😉
Uh... My dad was an opthalmologist and I repaired everything growing up. Quit already with the rich vs the rest of us BS.
@@user-kh2zu4dj5h Anybody can teach us about cars, but it takes somebody special to make it part of our lives.
@billmalec totally agree. My grandfather was wealthy and my dad worked on his on his own cars and me and my brother to work on our cars.
Yeah, IMO cars were MEANT to be worked on by the consumer up until the mid 00's I would say. I will not buy anything newer than my 01' Celica. Zero interest in hugely complex cars that are not designed to be serviced by yourself. I think the 90's had the best mix of engineering and computers while still keeping things simple and easy to work on.
Seems like anything new you buy today completely bars you from being qualified to do much of anything (not to mention massive costs).
That table you speak to us all went from 0 subscriber garage videos to this amazing shop you own and a channel that only gets better and better. God bless, I love watching your successes and growth
Best automotive technician on CZcams bar none. No one is more knowledgeable in Toyotas and Lexus models.
My way of thinking about premium gas is not about performance it's the non ethanol in it witch by way more damaging on your fuel system and have proof of this !!!
When it comes to tire inflation don't forget to check the pressure in your SPARE tire if you have one at least every six months. Out of sight out of mind. I was taking a longish road trip this spring and remembered the spare. Should have been 36 psi it was closer to 20 psi because it had been over a year since I had last checked the pressure.
Folks also forget that there’s a 5th TPMS sensor on some cars. Always check the spare when the light comes on.
An inflator carried in the car will straighten it out... unless it deflates enough to unseat the bead.
What spare?
Yeah should fill your spare with nitrogen! 😂
I’m so glad you said this. I haven’t checked the pressure in my spare tire in my NX since I bought it last May. I’m definitely checking it today. 🫶🏻
Dude that 2nd myth brings me back to my childhood. my dad was so adamant about having the ac turned off before turning off the car than anything else. He still thinks this to this day.
Even in EV cars? Dam!
Same!
He was avoiding mold. Good on him lol
Remember, dad is right even when he is wrong.
In post-1993 cars the increasing evaporator problem was pinhole leaks. 1993 Volvo vehicles used R-134A, which was new at the time and not required until the end of the 1994 model year. They used a different alloy in the evaporators - I don't know why - but soon enough many other makes were having the same problem. Volvo's first approach was to put cabin filters to intercept the pollen that combined with water to make a corrosive paste (according to Volvo). As AMD points out, some makes (/models?) leave the evaporator fan on a while to dry out the evaporator.
Best advice i heard was go to specific gas stations (like shell, BP) instead of grocery store gas.
Some gas station uses cheap un-refine fuel which create sludges. While others such as chevron and shell uses cleaning agent in they're fuel to keep the engine from carbon build up and sludge build up. I personally use chevron and shell only for all of my vehicles. I stop using Arco after what it did to my Nissan 240sx. It ran like shit to the point where I just ended up giving it to the junkyard because it would not go when stepping on the gas, it was slipping going up the hill.
Remarkable. @@mrvang8077
Shell uses 3 times the average detergent. It really is superior.
Totally agree with your comments on premium fuels. As a retired Shell fuels engineer, you should always use the grade of gas specified by the manufacturer and always use Top Tier fuels which have much better detergents and additives.
I only use top tier gas and my brother still makes fun of me for it, he’ll be like if I put gas that wasn’t top tier you wouldn’t know but I say true but top tier is better
How much more detergents/additives does VPower have versus the regular unleaded at shell ?
What type should it be if a manufacturer recommends premium, but they say regular is fine?
I’d like to say, I ONLY use Shell gas for the past 15yrs only, unless I have no choice.
Reason;
I used to have a 99 Camry 4cyl as a daily. I never used to keep my car running while filling up. For some reason that day I decided to keep my car running.
As I was filling up, the idle became so smooth as I was filling with the Shell gas. Not that my car had any idling issues. But if I thought my car idled smooth, this smoothness was on a whole different level.
So thank you very much for your work at Shell!! 🙏
My car says use regular or PREMIUM FOR BEST PERFORMANCE. This is something NO ONE ADDRESSES!
Great info! Thanks. I do think I got a little bit better gas mileage after putting premium fuel in my car, but I think that was because my wallet was a little bit lighter and that reduced the load the engine had to carry😊
That is the most logical explanation I have heard so far. 😉
The best sarcastic explanation.
Love your sense of humor! The best, most reasonable explanation in these "replies".😂
BAHAHAHHAHA
I legit get better mileage and performance using premium as long as it's ethanol free which is the only reason why I would get it in the first place. The cost difference isn't worth the gains however. I haven't tried premium with 10 percent ethanol as I understand it would be a waste of money. I do sometimes wonder if the cleaning packages makes a difference but you could always just go and grab some which would be cheaper than filling it up.
I accidently do the AC drying/venting , just because it felt right to me. I did not realize the AUTO function was programmed to do it.
What if you don’t have auto ac in a newer car?
On certain cars. Not most cars.
Same here.
Same, I always turn it off before turing the car off.
I'm from Western Australia and I think your content and presentation is absolutely awesome. Wish you were my mechanic.
I laugh at the miniscule costs you charge people. $1600 for an a/c replacement. OMG. That would be more than double in Australia at least.
Your work ethic is awesome and you're an awesome human. I wish you all the best for you and your family.
It depends on country to country, My side here charges about $600 USD for a new AC compressor including workmanship. We don't use man-hour charges.
In NSW, I love (or do I hate) US vids that not their prices.
Apart from a BMW 325i E46 that needed a new A/C compressor and evaporator core replacement, none of the Japanese makes which I owned needed standard maintenance at the recommended intervals
As an IT Guy myself I suggest the following:
A. Berryman B12 Chemtool Fuel Injector Cleaner
B. CRC GDI IVD Intake and Valve Cleaner
C. And Something else I can't remember off the top of my head at the moment. So stay tuned.
When I drove my '82 Rabbit Diesel, I'd turn all the accessories off before starting it. I needed all the power I could get to start that bad boy.
I miss old cars. So much character
N2 from the supplier is dry; many shops don’t bleed off the moisture from their air compressors consistently. Only other benefit I can see.
I have developed a habit of putting high mileage SEAFOAM fuel additive into my Lexus LS430 once a month that also requires PREMIUM fuel. She has 212k miles. I hope this can be covered in part 2. God bless 🙏
We used Nitrogen in racing tires, but only because the temperature increase would cause “regular air” to increase tire pressure too soon so our car would be tighter or looser the more laps we did during the final race of the night. I never understood why people don’t think nitrogen won’t cause tires to increase tire pressure with heat. IT STILL INCREASES, it only delays the time it takes for the pressure to increase. So when people are driving 70mph on a road trip in a straight line, why does it matter? Stick to regular air and check them every time you fill up at the gas station. It’s so simple to do and yet I see people with basically flat tires going down the road, wondering why their car pulls to the left or right…
I like to change my own oil. For what new cars, parts and labor cost it is very cheap insurance. You can buy synthetic oil anywhere. A max protection filter is also worth the cost. Great advice AMD!
100% agree! I take a lazy approach and buy the filters at Toyota. For $6 I know I'm getting one that is right for the car. I almost changed from the 5K mile interval the reminder system uses to the 10K mile interval the service schedule calls for. AMD warned me off just in time!
Soon I will have to replace our spark plugs, and his video about counterfeits convinced me to get those at the dealer as well. Their supply chain is certainly better than aftermarket parts stores. Toyota can't afford to put knockoffs in their new cars, and we can buy the plugs they use.
Oil change shops are a joke ,once had one tell me I needed to replace the rear main seal lol all it was was axle seals easy fix. I change my own oil now they are a rip off. Only used them once never again. sorry front diff seals still easy.
I started changing my own oil when I was probably 21 after watching the burnout at the quick lube do it. Never looked back. Also have always used synthetic. Engines are like new inside and run like new at 300K.
@@flagmichaelone of the best oem filters out there! Especially for the price.
@@flagmichael If you use platinum plugs they last for absolutely ages. Almost the life of the car. 5k miles was the change interval when I was a lad, 50 years ago. Modern oils, even non-synthetic, are much better than the 50 years ago. 10k miles is certainly a good interval for synthetic oil changes. 5k miles is really too short for non-synthetic oils today. Modern engines also have reduced blow-by and much less fuel gets into the oil. both of these lead to longer oil change intervals.
Buy and EV and forget about it! :)
Thank you for the AC myth! I still turn off my AC before shutting off my newer car. I was so used to my old Corolla! 😂
I think it is easier on the battery because there is less load at start up. I turn everything off. The headlights, the windshield wipers, the AC, i do leave the radio on but it doesn't pull much power.
Very good explanation on the proper use of fuels regular versus premium. It’s sad to see that so many people misunderstand this. Good job AMD!👍
The ECU retards timing less often with premium full. The knock sensor PID data shows with premium fuel its not pulling nearly the amount of ignition timing as it does with regular. ECU logic may vary on make and model.
Back in the late 80s I was following Mom's logic of using premium only. When I wised up and changed to 87, my mileage increased by 3mpg. To this day, she puts premium in her rusted out, $200 grand prix with the 3.1.
@@richardroberts6472Correct. There are ECUs that can take advantage of premium. They have aggressive timing maps. I actually have one of these cars. 2007 VW Rabbit 2.5. The owners manual say premium is recommended for maximum performance, but 87 is the minimum requirement. Dyno 10hp 15ftlbs. 2 mpg improvement. It’s actually cheaper to use premium in my car.
I'm more concerned with people who use 87 octane fuel in their 91 octane minimum cars, I see it all the time at the gas station. A bit heartbreaking to see someone abuse their car this way, this is why you should be very careful when buying a used car with that type of engine.
I find it interesting that the US appears to have far lower octane fuels than Europe.numbers, I didn't know that. In Europe, "regular" is 95 RON (nowadays 10% bio-ethanol, another story in itself) whereas "premium" is 98 RON.
13:19 bro your ‘smile’ while saying your points is hilarious 😂😂😂
I check and set my tires to within a tenth of a pound temperature adjusted every fortnight along with other fluids. From my research, the tire pressure printed on the pillar assumes an ambient air temperature of 68 degF. Accordingly, the formula is adjusted_psi=target_psi+target_psi((ambient_temp-68)/10)*0.02. For example, at 90 degF for a vehicle with a target air pressure of 33 psi, the adjusted air pressure is 34.5=33+33((90-68)/10)*0.02.
One more thing, I recommend you run "midgrade" or "premium" in turbocharged cars.
Although many turbocharged cars advertise they can run on 87 octane, this is to advertise a lower gas cost on the window sticker, but there is usually a measurable benefit to use a higher octane fuel in turbo charged cars.
What type of benefits?
@@star9732*More horsepower. Amount of gain varies among mfgr's and even engine models within one mfg'r. My experience is limited to Lexus, Acura and MazdaSpeeds but owners manual tells the tale for all of them. Cheers!*
*Agreed. Depending upon its sophistication, ECU sees ignited flame front times, counts knock sensor events and other sensed data, setting spark advance accordingly. Cheers!*
My 2017 focus ST (turbo) said in the manual I could run 87 or 93...the computer would adjust for the lower octane and you would loss horsepower...
@@thyubernoob *Perfect process explanation. Cheers!*
I had a great auto shop teacher back in the mid 80's who thought us about octane ratings! Its amazing this myth still continues to this day!
“the air we take for granted”
Is why we appreciate you so much
I am so glad that i found your channel! I just bought a 2019 Toyota Tundra with a 5.7 V8 and since I subscribed to your channel you have answered almost all of the questions that I had.
The truck has 25,000 miles and I want to take care of it. I have never owned a Toyota and had lots of questions about how to have it serviced and when. Thanks so much for doing and creating this channel!!!!
That is a great buy for sure. Drive it like normal person and do regular maintenance and that truck will last you for many years.
2015 Tundra owner here with 167k miles on it, 5.7 engine is bulletproof, my truck has seen 100k miles of heavy off-roading and long trips across the US, I can attests to its durability and dependability 100%
2021 Sequoia Platinum here that pulls our Airstream like a dream.
On the premium fuel mention. I have a 2013 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4 Double Cab with the 4.0L V6. TCCN I remembered in one of your videos a long time ago when you were at your house in garage, you mentioned about how the 4.0L V6 prefers the higher octane gas. I notice before switching to premium gas in my Tacoma, that at low speeds, I would here that pre-ignition knock or tapping. So after watching your video where you spoke about the 4.0L liking the higher octane gas, I switched to COSTCO premium top tier fuel and now it runs phenomenal!!! Even when towing lumber or top soil dirt in my trailer, that 4.0L does an awesome job. I have over 120,000 miles on it today. So I do believe running premium fuel helped my truck. Thanks for the very informative video. I love and enjoy your channel!!
It just really depends on the vehicle. Some engine will perform really good with premium fuel while others will do nothing at all, hence why some just stick to regular fuel.
I had a 2008 Taurus did the exact same thing. Well except for the part about towing.
Actually using premium gas in a car that's really old and actually has carbon on the Pistons and detonates a lot will actually help but that's a special case I have seen older cars that use regular gas and they just run better on premium no detonations
I had a 2008 Taurus that ran like a top on 91. If I put 87 it would knock like crazy with no power. 89 it would run like it’s supposed to.
That was the case for my old 94 Sentra, as well (GA16DE engine). It ran noticeably smoother on 91/93 than on 87, and I'm thinking it had to do with the additional knock resistance. Fuel mileage was about the same, but feeling the car run smoother was all the evidence I needed to run higher octane fuel.
Best 2 car channels on the web. The mechanic reviews and this one.
ChrisFix has the most subscribers - 9.79M - in the automotive field and I think he has earned it. Not the depth of The Car Care Nut but loads of useful and detailed videos.
Thanks I'll check him out.
@@flagmichael
Great tips. I have a habit since I ve got my first car in 80s (one without TPMS) to check all tires pressure and oil level every weekend .Even these days when cars have those pressure sensors I still have more trust using old school tire pressure gauge
How many times do you keep checking it after you see the car is right every time?
My only problem is finding a gauge I can trust. I have several bourdon tube (rotary pointer) gauges and none of them agree closely enough with the others.
To this day I've never owned a car with TPMS (or drive by wire for that matter!) so I'm very used to doing things the old fashioned way.
I like my cars to be cars and not telling me how to do everything lol. I think owning stuff pre early 00's is a much better way of being more involved with maintenance than having a computer tell you what to do.
I agree. I also hate electric starters, I feel more connected to my engine when I turn that big crank to start the car. @@rushnerd
@@frostyjim2633... and hybrids (at least Toyotas) don't even have a starter.
That's funny. It was the dealership that said once I switch to synthetic I couldn't go back. 😅
Yeah the stealership would also tell you with a straight face that independent mechanics are all incompetent swindlers.
As someone who leaves his ac on auto way before I even first watched car care nut.
I'm glad I just leave it on auto.
Some Lexus cars do not even require premium fuel, like the NX350H. It's the same engine as the Rav 4, only difference is it has a larger electric motor giving it 20 more HP.
I realize that tire pressure should be checked every week and oil check always when cold engine in the morning.
Every week is excessive unless you've become aware of a leak. With good tires I can go months between checks and see no significant change, especially in the spring as the temperature warms. More frequent checks are important in the fall as the temperature cools.
Good video. The nitrogen in tires is a total scam. Was at local Honda dealership a few years back and they had all sorts of extra stuff on a new Odyssey van that was either way over priced or useless. Something like $100 for nitrogen in the tires. Seriously? Probably took that off to make buyer feel like getting a better deal when being ripped off. I have never gone back and never will.
Nitrogen are only beneficial for when you're on the race track, and you don't want to risk having a tire blow out while racing. That is why all race car uses nitrogen instead of regular air when they're on the race track. Nitrogen is an inert gas that remains the same in all driving condition. They do not expand and contract like regular air. Regular air expands and contracts when it gets hot and cold creating flex which in terms causes a lot of stress on the sidewall eventually you get a tire blow out.
@@mrvang8077I assume you are aware that 80% of air is nitrogen. So technically they can fill your tires with air and charge you for the nitrogen.
@@mrvang8077 Actually, the expansion/contraction with temperature is exactly the same for all gasses above the condensation point, governed by Boyle's Law in physics.
I used to overfill my gas tank until I saw your video a while back. Not any more (i was one of the lucky ones). But for me, it was more than just a few miles. I would be able to add an additional 1.5 to 2 gals after the click.
The problem can be severe if you pump the gas at cold night to the neck and next day black car left full on sun. Fuel will expand a lot and can damage your evaporator system
@@michaeldiy1510 You don't need any temperature changes to do that. If you keep filling it to the very top you have liquid going into places that were only meant for gases.
Got bit on my 2012 corolla filled right up.Evap system fail.$700
I thought everyone knew that by now but guess not. VERY bad thing to do.
Thank you sir! I have been turning my AC off in my '99 Lexus so as not to strain the starter, and kicking myself when I forget. I will no longer do this.
Here in Australia there's a very large proportion of people who are convinced that premium fuel not only gives you better economy but more power also, and that it's better for your engine due to "added cleaning properties" etc. Once I did even a little bit of research I stopped putting premium in my car because the price difference here is astronomical and I've noticed absolutely zero difference in performance or economy. Great video!
The price difference is outrageous everywhere. Several channels have tested the two grades in "regular" engines and the power and mileage were insignificant. It was literally burning money.
Here in Australia , there are legislated fuel standards for standard 91 octane and premium 95. There is no standard for 98!
So legally speaking, the expensive heavily marketed 98 on needs to meet the standard of 95!! It’s rarely 98 and spot testing by government inspectors shows an average of 96-97.
@@froggy0162 most "regular" in USA is 86 or 87, and "premium" are 91-93. Many sell a mid-grade that is 88-89.
The octane number is not a true chemical content measure as they use an average of the research and motor methods.
@@williamgaines9784 America uses a different octane rating to the rest of the world. Yes, I know - add it to the list of weird and annoying things about America... US spec 87 is the same as 91 everywhere else - I assumed that was obvious.
What does "true chemical content" mean...? Octane rating is a measure of performance, not chemistry.
@@froggy0162 octane is an actual chemical compound.
Premium gasoline used to be labeled "Ethyl" back in the day.
Love your channel.
Two points.
1. 0w16 is required on my 2022 Rav4. No dino oil comes in 0w16.
2. I turn off AC and run fan with fresh air mode to dry evaporator as I experience moldy smell on my 5 Toyotas.
lol 0w16 is literally water, and no it has nothing to do with “tighter clearances” 0w20 is already super thing, 0w16 is just ridiculous, especially in a warm climate. Have fun driving your clanky engine that makes a ton of noise knowing you have literal water running through your oil passages, your car won’t last 250k+ like older Toyotas did, say hello to oil burning and valve train tick
Sir. You are killing it. I really enjoy all your videos and I see that subscriber number growing. This video is much needed, thank you.
Thank you Ahmad!!! Good info as always and appreciate you clearing up various nuances people have. 👍
Thanks for this first of two series. Can’t wait for the second one. Very informative. The reminders are helpful.
AMD, your video qualities of late are top-notch such as this one. The lighting and audio is high quality.
I love this video! So knowledgeable and honest.
I really appreciate your channel. You give great advice based on experience and facts. Some things sound so simple but if you don’t know any better they aren’t . Thank You for the Sound , Straight Forward, Factual Advice that isn’t influenced by paid advertising. And dispensing with the myths
Good info, thanks. Your vids just keep gettin better.
Totally agreed about premium fuel myth. And petroleum companies do very often provide a very convincing narrative that using premium fuel adds longevity to the engine
Ethyl has entered the chat, that is if you’re old enough.
The only good thing about nitrogen is that it doesn’t contain any water so it won’t throw your tire balance off. Some places don’t have a water removal device on their air compressors. Many years ago GM had customer complaints of water in their tires.
@@Notfiveo0He was talking about fuel, not tires.
You’re 💯 correct on all of them Myths! I never used to over fill my tank of gas, until a few years ago I started doing it. And then my engine light came on with the evap code! Just to find out from the dealer that I was over filling the gas tank because of the strong smell of gasoline! They had to replace the whole evap system in my truck! It cost me a arm and a leg!! Never do that mistake again!
It cost you in the past but will not cost you in the future: that is the goal! My life is all about a brighter future.
I absolutely loved this, like everything else from Mr. CCN, thanks!!
Love the info on this channel, always learning something new
Good video & info... thank you. 👍🏼😎
Thank you very much, I appreciate the educational content. The premium gas explanation was excellent and fine tuned my understanding. BTW the shop looks great!!!
You will notice the difference in how your car performs when switching between those two types of fuel. If you don't notice any difference when you use premium fuel, then just stick with the regular unleaded. But if you do feel a difference, then it means your car just performed best using the premium fuel. All in all, it just really depends on the vehicle.
GDI engines take regular fuel. Overtime carbon deposits in engine and it starts making clicking noise. If you fill up Premium gas it somehow clears the carbon deposits and clicking is gone. I have been doing this with my GDI engines for years and one of the senior mechanic told me this trick.
Always excellent advice! Thank you!
Great tip for preserving the ac evaporator. I was told of this long ago by an ac expert but its rarely mentioned by mechanics 😊
As a former refrigeration technician i have no idea how you'll "preserve" an evaporator by doing that. You'll keep excessive moisture from it and a other contaminants but that's it. It might get dirty ajd smelly but it won't beak down prematurely unless there's structural damage. I would also add to the tip already mentioned, to raise the temperature in the cabin a few minutes before stopping. The warmer air will accelerate the condensation and you'll get rid of the water quicker.
Thank you for all you do
I love my car so much, I only buy 100% gas without ethynol. In addition, air is less dense at altitude so places like "The Mile High City" use 85 rather than 87 octane as their standard to reduce the chance of engine knocking.
Love your channel and videos. I wish your shop was here in Texas. You have such a plain-spoken, practical and honest approach to cars. I think you understand that a lot of us admire Lexus for their reliability and quiet ride and not their snob appeal. I just wish I knew of a local shop that didn’t assume I was ok with being gouged because I drove a Lexus.
More people should watch your videos. This is a great video giving drivers some basic car knowledge. I have been telling people for years about engine oil, nitrogen filled tires and octane ratings. Love the videos, I even bought a 4Runner based on the video you did.
Thanks for all the videos sir!
Yall took care of my Lexus and I greatly appreciate the work 🙏
Excellent comments, especially those relevant to tires.
Quick story: I'm retired after 40+years in the car business.
Was running a Volvo dealership...guy comes in with his wife's S70 for his second service....he insists we inflate tires "correctly", which he had to do himself after the first service...also, wife said car drives" funny" . Well, ok, maybe we missed something last time... End of day, nothing odd found...husband picks up car...is back in 20 minutes, making a fuss about us not inflating his tires correctly. So I grab my high-end tires guage...all 4 tires at 55+
PSI!!!! So I said: were the tires low? "Yes, but I fixed it just like last time". I explained to him that sidewall marking was a maximum safe pressure, ensuring that it would not explode and kneecap his wife, than showed him the door label AND the owners manual.
He found it perplexing. He said " I'm an ENGINEER ".
(a civil engineer..... which made me hope that I never encountered his work...hopefully no bridges/tunnels/etc.
Great video!
Thanks AMD.
I have been a mechanic in the feild, and reprocess repair man in the factory.
The time it's costing you to film and edit these videos is greatly appreciated.
I love the engine autopsy videos. My experience didn't involve much engine repair/rebuild.
My factory experience was instrument panel/interior, heating and air conditioning.
It must at least double the time needed to film it. Thanks again.
I always understood that cars that recommend premium fuel but not require it will achieve more HP and a bit better mileage with the premium, even though it is still not worth it for the slight increase in power and mileage.
Some engines that only marginally need higher octane can do some self compensation to still run on lower octane fuel but at the expense of worse performance
@@davec8921 Agree. I think Saab (may they rest in peace) was the first manufacturer to fit knock sensors to their engines, and adjust boost and timing to take advantage of premium fuel.
@@shiftfocus1 Since 1996, knock sensors became mandatory to control NOx emissions. Detonation makes NOx like crazy, besides doing bad things to valves and piston rings pistons and such.
Regarding fuel, I would be interested on your take of using regular fuel that contains ethanol. My mechanic has shown me several fuel system teardowns where the corrosion and rust is really bad from having used regular fuel. In Wisconsin, regular and mid-grade fuel contains ethanol, where as premium does not. That is why I use premium.
I too would like to hear a good explanation on ethanol vs non ethanol in new vehicles. Around here in Texas non ethanol is about 90 or 91 octane and priced a little above premium. I understand premium is not necessary or beneficial if the car uses 87 octane, but are there benefits to non ethanol in that same vehicle. I’m about 99% sure that it gives better mileage and power than the ethanol stuff. I run non ethanol in all of my small engines like yard tools and ATVs since the cost is not really much of a factor in those.
Premium gas is not ethanol free.
@@OldRodder1964 in some stations (for example Stewart’s shops in the Hudson valley area and beyond in New York State), they do have 91 octane non-ethanol premium gas. That is what I choose to use in my lawnmower and gas power equipment. And non-ethanol gas does give slightly better gas mileage, and is gentler on older fuel systems
I’m no expert but the corrosion may have something to do with water in the fuel. I have heard that ethanol attracts water. When we lived in Minnesota my dad ran gas stations and water getting into the tanks was a huge problem.
@@jimskinner9234I’ve heard it’s better to use higher octane when hot outside. Something about premium runs cooler. And less chance of misfire.
Look when the pump clicks your full stop jamming more gas in there. I see this all the time at the pumps people clicking the handle like 5 to 10x to add more fuel.
I love these, “ Need to know” videos are a great source of information. Thanks. 👍
It's true, you can't go back to regular oil. Not because there's any engineering reason, but since I started using synthetic (Amsoil) I just won't use anything else. I guess I can only say it's true for me, not necessarily anyone else... it was funnier in my head.
"It was funnier in my head" - join the club. We should have jackets: "you don't get what?"
Overfilling the tank was something I learned the hard way. I had always owned older cars (pre 1990). When I first bought something newer that had the emission control system, I overfilled the tank and soaked the canister. Replacing the canister was an expensive repair.
Great lighting...! Always love your channel.
My man thank you.. this video just won me a bet can't wait for part 2
Great video Amd !! You always give us good advise! I'd like to add something to the "nitrogen" segment..so the extra tip is out there too. Nitrogen is VERY dry so no condensation in the rims and tpms sensor (not sure if that matters or not ) but the best part is that if you fill to say 35 PSI at lets say 50 degrees with air if it were to get down to 5 degrees you lost about 6 PSI, and with nitrogen it's about half of this, like 3 PSI. Same is true for rising temps, about half the swing.. so hot pavement/ hot day PSI swing is less too. I still agree don't pay for it, they charge too much ! If you use air just should be mindful to check the PSI as the temp swings and adjust. I'm happy to see all is going well for this channel, been following a long time ! Kudos !!
The less pressure variation under a wide temperature change is due to the elimination of moisture during nitrogen production. A good compressed air pumping system with a moisture stripping subsystem will provide similar merit.
Yes indeed.. if you have drying stick or another moisure remover, and drain the tanks on the compressor ( something a LOT of shops neglect ) and you can put good dry air in, it's a great option.
@@vancheeliu6794
air is 80% nitrogen anyway.
78% part of air is nitrogen, as per AMD said is correct. The moisture part is depend on how good is the air compressor system stripped the compressed air.
...and... Filters. if the shop has drained the water from the tank, and if it's humid while the compressor is compressing.. like summer VS winter. Air dryers ( for paint booth) or moisture filters (cheap, less effective) are a good way to dry up what's leaving the tank though. @@metzmatu8409
I love this channel, but I am not a Toyota guy. But I'm watching this these videos to keep my dad's 2007 Camry. V6 running, right? Question, is it possible to add factory fog? Lights, it didn't come from the factory that way. Does Toyota have the same thing with GM? That has all the wires there to add it.
You’ll have to look under the bumper
I have a 2007 camry le 4 cylinder I put a set of glass fog light in mine. I ordered them off of ebay for less than 50.00 I did however purchase expensive led light bulbs for all of the lights. There wasn't wires running to the fog light from factory yours might be different idk. It was easy to install tho. I can have mine on with my high and low beams and also by themselves If I want
I have borla mufflers from my old 07. I will send them to you if you are in the US.
@12345....... mine is the 4 cylinder motor not the v6. Yes I'm in the USA ohio
Wish we has someone like you in the UK - Your a star, thank-you
You have a great channel and I’ve learned a lot watching you. Thank you sir👍👍
Great advice. On the "pure" nitrogen fill, regular air is about 78% nitrogen to begin with. It would be better for your tires and rims that the air be dehydrated, but regular air is otherwise fine.
Great advice, partner! Tham’s for keeping us informed. BTW, I’m digging the new look! Have you lost some weight? Stay strong, and healthy 😊.
Generally, if tires are aired from a pressure tank (rather than an inflator right at the tire) it is already dry. The vapor pressure of the water has to compete with the air pressure, so in a tank that runs 50 psi or more the air is fairly dry. Ditto for air in a cold winter, regardless of whether it was just compressed or came from a tank.
@@flagmichael I still see water coming from compressed air. Some but not all moisture is settles at the bottom of the tank.
He is correct in stating that normal air is 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, and 1% trace gases. Oxygen and nitrogen are both diatomic (exist as two combined atoms) and Oxygen is a larger atom than nitrogen so nitrogen should leak easier than Oxygen from any openings. The real difference is that most compressed air contains moisture while nitrogen bottles have removed the moisture and that is why nitrogen filled tire pressure will decrease ever so slightly less during temperature changes than tire filled with moist compress air.
but you cannot replace all the gas in a car tire with nitrogen. If you let all the pressure out of a tire, it still contains 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen. I can do the math if you like but if you refill that tire with pure nitrogen, the tire will contain no more than 94% nitrogen and 5% oxygen.
This myth came from the airline industry where you have to take equipment to the airplane as opposed to taking the airplane to a hanger. It was easier to take a nitrogen bottle to a plane than taking a compressor and power supply to the plane, to fill a tire.
Also when jet aircraft became the norm, the hard and fast landings heated the tires and the rubber released flammable gases into the tire interior where a static electric spark could ignite the flammable gases and cause the tire to explode. Nitrogen filled tires lacked enough Oxygen to ignite any flammable mixture.
Nitrogen is more stable. The rise and fall psi because of temperature changes will be significantly less.
@@h2o100c I have no idea what "more stable" means. If you believe in science, there is a thing called the ideal gas law and that law proves that there is absolutely no difference in pressure for a container of air vs a container of pure nitrogen for a given temperature change.
If you don't believe in science, put the tin fi\oil hat back on.
Synthetic oil def makes a difference as long as it is used from the start. I had a 2009 Honda Fit that used conventional oil. Lots of short trips and cold starts. After 6 years my car started puffing blue smoke after going down a hill. The valve guide seals were starting to go. My next Fit, a 2016, used full synthetic from the start. Had that car 7 years. Still lots of short trips and cold starts. No blue smoke at all. Block heaters were used over winter for both cars. Synthetic oil flows much faster when cold so starts protecting your engine when starting much sooner.
Besides the better detergent action, that cold viscosity (especially as miles are put on it) is one of the great qualities of synthetic engine oils. Engineering Explained has a great video, "Is Synthetic Motor Oil Better For Your Car?" that shows the differences in conventional and synthetic oil, at -35F around the 5 minute mark. Extreme, perhaps, but clear.
My son had a valve problem on his 1994 Acura Integra, so we removed it for repair. My son had used synthetic in it for a few years by then, and when we got the head wiped down it looked like new. No varnish anywhere. That was pretty amazing.
you were likely using the wrong oil for your 2009 fit. that car required 5W-20 oil which was synthetic around those years.
@@flagmichael engg explained compared a 10W-30 conventional to a 5W-30 synthetic. of course the 5W-30 will flow better when cold. A 5W-30 conventional and a 5W-30 synthetic will flow at the same rate.
You are so honest in all your video's. Wish all mechanics would be like you with your mentality. I have another video topic for you. "What is the proper way of boosting a car battery with another vehicle "
Love it! Good honest and true information.
That is what you think. With Synthetic the shup can charge more and put in the same recycle oil that they rebottled in the back into the Synthetic bottles. I have changed my oil before and I know how Mobile 1 looks and feel like. When the shop changes it is very different. I have seen it all!
The oil that comes out of my toyota at 5k looks new still..and your not wrong about shops rebottle oils at $30 a gallon..it's profitable lots more than you can imagine it happens. Unless you pour it out a bottle yourself you don't know what your getting
@@lightman489 - It's much worst after Covid. I think they were using the cheapest brand before not it's recycled oil. It doesn't even look like oil. I always check after the job is done. You know it's a vicious cycle. They cut cost because they have less customers not they use cheap product they lose even the oil change customers. I had once got my Tires balance at SEARS and they cut my CV boot. Hoping I would know. I glad these Aholes are all unemployed or maybe they are hired by the local shops and the scam continues. People should try to earn an honest live for once and see what happens!
Great Videos as always. I still have my 98 volvo s70 turbo. I use conventional oil and change oil every 6 months. It does require synthetic oil. Never had any problems.
Your just being cheap bro, I’d never use that cheap crude oil bs. Yes synthetic is better in many ways but putting the most regular oil in a car is crazy 😂
wrong. Your gullible. @@natefrm860
@@natefrm860 No, you are wrong, this is not about being cheap. Back then I didn't know any better about oils and just kept using it. It has not given me any problems. I use synthetic on the other two that I have. I am just sharing my experience with using conventional oil on a 25 year old car that has NOT given me any problems.
I love to watch all your videos, you’re amazing at explaining things to people that don’t know much about vehicles. I used to be a mechanic myself back in Europe. Now I live in Washington state and I have four Toyotas in my household. One of them is a Toyota Sequoia my work truck. 🙂
So I have interesting experience to share with you. I drive twice a week from Washington to Montana. It’s a four hour trip one way. I deliver furniture on a trailer. So for last two years I had enough opportunity to test the fuel ⛽️. It’s always the same road, same speed limit(except winter times), same weight I haul, and I use cruise control so no difference in performance of my driving. But I noticed a significant difference in my gas mileage if I use premium (92) gas or ethanol free gas compared to 87. So my 2011 Sequoia does not require a premium fuel, but it gives me a lot better gas mileage if I use it, not sure what kind of science is behind it but that is a fact!!! What are your thoughts about it? 😉
Thank you for making this. Excellent
I have doubt about the premium or non premium fuels part. I drove a tuned Skoda Octavia RS with an 2.0 TSI engine and filling the gastank with Shell Vpower 98 gave me 30 h.p. more then the Shell 95 which is regular in Europe. This is simply measured on a dyno so no gut feeling.
LOL 😂
Some modern sports cars have variable timings that are adjusted by the engine computer based on detected knocking. These get high power at higher octane within the adjustment range.
The oil filter is the same regardless if you used synthetic oil or regular right,good video very helpful 👍🏽
Just to clarify, oil filters can be used with conventional or synthetic oils, BUT….no, all oil filters are not the same. There are a lot of cheap made filters out there and there are really good quality filters as well. You can’t go wrong with OEM filters like Motorcraft, Toyota, etc. But back to what AMD said, yes the frequency of your oil change is most important, but that’s not saying quality oil and filters are not important. All this is to say if you gave 25 bucks for your premium filter and 15 bucks per quart for your oil…..you got ripped. Don’t go the “extended oil change” route either……you’ll loose in the long run.😊
Use a good oil filter like the new FRAM ULTRA SYNTHETIC. They had a bad rep and came out with this ULTRA filter that has come out on top in comparison tests
@@MikeKayK I just use the Toyota filter. Inexpensive (about $6 for our Prius) and undoubtably good for the car. If we change oil and filter on schedule I doubt there is much difference between one good filter and another. The worst stuff - acids and broken down oil - that accumulates in that short period won't be stopped by any filter. If we don't change the oil on schedule, the filter is the least of our problems.
@@flagmichael Agreed. I've been driving my 2006 Highlander less than 5k per year recently, and the car usually sits for several weeks at a time at a garage in another state from where I live. I don't change the oil often enough (I change it once a year instead of once every 6 months like I really should be) because it's just so inconvenient to do so. So I've been using really good oil (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) and filters (FRAM ULTRA) hoping it would help to offset my tardy oil change intervals. For what it's worth, when I do drive it's usually long trips, so that's good. This may be why my oil still looks and smells very fresh even after a yea. Car is at 103k miles and the motor purrs. When I get the car back to my house and start driving regularly, I plan to go back to 6 month oil changes at which point I agree the brand of oil and filter won't matter.
Love your videos, very informative, keep it up, greetings from Aruba.
I had a long talk with Lucas oil company the guy on the other told me, do not put senthitic oil in your 35 yr old truck, just keep doing what your doing changing your oil every 3000 miles! He was absolutely honest-much appreciative Lucas oil!
All good advice. I'd suggest checking tyres weekly. I do so when I fill up with gas. Takes a couple of minutes. It can uncover issues before they become serious or possibly even potentially dangerous (such a nail or metal splinter in a tyre that is causing slow loss of air). I use synthetic oil and change it every 6 months/6k miles. I appreciate it may not matter to use premium/branded oil, but I've used Castrol for 50 years and have confidence in it. Here in the UK, there are laws governing how much alcohol fuel manufacturers can add to their products. Regular is allowed to be up to 10% alcohol, but premium may only be up to 5%. It does seem I get better gas mileage using premium. Would the reduced percentage of alcohol explain that?
Tire. LOL.
Yes. The alcohol added in has less energy per unit of volume. The percentage of alcohol diluting your gasoline reduces mileage proportionately.
@@jaysmith179Duh. "Tire" is what you do when you are, well, tired. Believe it or not, there is a great big world outside the US of A, Bubba.
@@JM-lk6woThanks. Good to know I wasn't imagining it.
@@JM-lk6woIndeed, here in Spain you will only find 5% of ethanol, but in my trip to Nurburgring last year, I had to use 10% ethanol in France and I got worse consumption. Lucky for me Germany had both options so I went back to E5, even if it was a bit more expensive
I’ve done a similar video on my channel before, May need to visit this topic again. I keep seeing “ sealed for life” transmission fluid comments on various forums. I’m curious if this will be covered in part 2 of your series’s. Good stuff as always! Much love and respect for you always. 👊🏻
Good comment I personally don’t believe in sealed for life, I’m sure the manufacturer would like it to go wrong or wear out quickly so you go out to purchase another one, surely if their is a drain plug and a refill cap then it must need topping up and or replacing at the correct interval, kind regards to you Mark from the U.K. 🇬🇧
czcams.com/video/jJr30r6RRgw/video.htmlsi=GhDU6q8er9iksIzy
Of course the "lifetime" fluid should be changed...usually at about 50K. Just ask yourself what "lifetime" means in years. Bet the dealer won't answer that question on the record.
Thank you AMD. Another great informative video!
Thanks for the hvac suggestion about the evaporator and the fan didn’t know that but that’s awesome
I agree with the oil thing; but, I would tend to stick to one or the other, simply because they may seperate when mixed. Diffrent densities, etc. same reason I would stick to the same oil type, and manufacture. In a pinch, no problem.
The oil is flying around the engine - for the minimal amount left after an oil change I don’t think separating would be an issue. Even if it was 50/50 it wouldn’t make any difference whatsoever
yea, I am just saying, all other considerations aside, best to be consistent. Like if I am a store to buy oil, and my usual brand is not in stock, I am not going to give it much thought to grab the next brand over of similar specs. 😅
God bless you brother your channel has legit become my favorite next to donut media and scotty kilmer. Very informative and i never miss a video. Keep up the great work AMD and if possible ,please keep doing these myth videos. I would really like to know if very short distance drives damage an engine and how to prevent wear from turning a car on and off frequently. Thank you god bless.
Thanks very much for busting the myths! We went to the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn Michigan, to say the least cars and SUVs have come a long way since the model T [Twentie] that car, they actully encouraged you to repair items yourself.
Thanks a lot, MD. Great content!
I thought there was some mention in another video about how you are better off not having the AC on the final ~5 minutes before parking. Instead either just leaving it in a blower mode. Personally I don't use AC much and when I do it is the lower settings, versus purportedly (myth or otherwise) keeping the AC maxed constantly.
It was something to the effect of "if you live in a really humid place and you're storing your car in a sealed garage and your car doesn't dry the AC system on its own then maybe there's a benefit to turning it off a bit early so it can dry out before parking", but it was more about preventing odours than anything else
Except in some newer cars, the AC compressor is either on or off. Changing the fan setting does not make the compressor run faster or slower. Changing the temp. setting determines how LONG the compressor works not its speed.
Many of the premium gas doesn't include ethanol which might give you better mileage
The last one about premium fuel I was glad to hear, I had my suspicions about it as a con anyway. You are my favourite mechanic now , thanks
Thank you for all your hard work brother! 😇
AMD, Thank you for producing this list. If you had to correct every myth spread in your own Comments section, you would never have time to turn a wrench. 😉🤣
Happy to see you and Scotty K are on the same thought wave, both of you are great explainers of mechanical knowledge
NO ! I love Scotty K too and listen to him frequently but actual knowledge comparison to the Car Care Nut is not a fair comparison. With respect to both, Car Care Nut has MUCH MORE extensive 'engineering' and 'mechanical' experience and education.
AMD plays by the book
Scott plays by his experience
@@user-de4jk8vj4c one is a 30 plus year experience mechanic and the other is a qualified master technician. I did not mean to make a comparison, both do have their value. Similar to a physician's assistant for 30 years and an experienced surgeon.
@@user-de4jk8vj4c I have infinitely more faith in AMD's knowledge and experience than in Scotty's. I gave up on Scotty after a few videos; he started saying ridiculous stuff and I left. AMD has always steered me right.
@@flagmichael The difference is AMD specializes in Toyota/Lexus only whereas Scotty has experience with everything. Scotty also has tons of 'old school' and lots of DIY advice. Like the other guy said, AMD does things by the book but Scotty plays by experience.
Great video man! Thanks!
Finally [!] got the answer on correct tire pressure. I have wrestled with that question for years. Thank you, AMD.