How to Replace a Watch Jewel and Horia (clone) Tool Review
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2022
- In this video I replace the Pallet Fork Jewel and Bridge Jewel using a chinese clone of the Horia Jeweling Tool. I also show how I removed the old jewels, measured for the new jewels and where I ordered the replacements from. I give an overview of the tool and give my opinion on whether or not the tool is worth the money I paid for it.
- Jak na to + styl
Well done. Thank you. Two comments. I notice that when you need to advance the pusher a large distance you are making repeated turns of the large thimble. The smaller diameter spindle on top of the larger thimble is there to make it quick and easy to advance the spindle a large distance. Then you use the large spindle to make the tiny adjustments you need when actually pushing a jewel. Also, you are pushing the jewels to exactly the measurement you want them to be at. If you re-measure after you make that move you may find you are about 1/100th mm short of where you expected to be. With most jeweling tools (my Chinese one included, and probably yours too) you generally have to go past your target measurement by 1/100 mm to achieve the exact depth you're looking for. This is to make up for imprecision or "lash" in the screw.
Hi Harold. Thanks for watching and for the comment. That’s Great information!!
I just got one of these since my budget is very tight. Top knob has a slight wobble but the shaft is very smooth. There’s a couple spots the knob seems to hang up a bit but it could just need a good cleaning from the machining or to break in. But everything lines up well and for $120 I’m not complaining. Finally can learn to replace a few jewels! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching. I hope it works well for you!!
This is a very well done video. Very informative with great camera work and explanation of what's being done. Enjoyed watching it!
Awesome, thank you!
Excellent viewing and what a precision, affordable Chinese tool set :-)
Thanks so much for watching and for the comment.
Great video. This is exactly the situation I'm in. I have this exact tool, and needed a tutorial on how to replace a train bridge jewel and was unsure about the operation. This walk through was everything I needed to see to give me the confidence to do the procedure.
Oh WoW! What a great comment. I am so happy that I was able to help! Thanks so much for watching. I hope your project turns out great!
Also, I found that the action on my tool was far smoother after I disassembled it, and cleaned the lead screw threads, then greased them. Yours might have come in better condition than mine though.
@@HudsonPeter Great tip! I'll try it!
Very informative video. I think you found a good niche in watchmaking youtube: finding out if clones of expensive swiss tools are worth the time and money for laymen like myself. Keep up the great work.
Seconded. I would also like to see more reviews like this.
Yes. Spring winders are a minefield, for example. There's only one Chinese set that has steel arbors, and there's no left handed winders in that set, and it's movement specific, and it's still over $200. I have it, and it seems pretty good, but all the rest are complete junk with brass arbors that will probably fail on third or fourth wind and look pretty rough generally. I don't have over $1600 for the Bergeon with movement specific winders, or the sale of my left... kidney for the full set. Crazy stuff.
I've got a plan for doing mainsprings for Japanese movements with the right handed winders. Use the winder to put the spring into the card that new springs come in, then use the card to put the spring into the barrel. I've also got the option to 3D print a card of the right size if I don't already have one.
Thanks for the info! I appreciate the tip!!
@@Chrisamic Using a right handed winder for left hand mainsprings czcams.com/video/AGauyhBcTww/video.html
Great video there Mark. I learned a lot. I'll be putting on of these on my shopping list.
Thanks so much. I really appreciate it.
Thanks, Mark for a FINE mini-technical... so very well done. I am new to jewel replacement and have a Rolex 2135 needing upper and lower jewels for the oscillating weight axel in the automatic works. With your help and all your other information, I've ordered this tool and the funny thing is, I've already got the new jewels, wisely waiting for finding your video technical to proceed a bit more wisely. Great work, sir! THANK you!
Thanks Alfred for the kind words. I’m so glad this video was helpful. I hope all goes well with your Rolex.
Thank You very much for uploading this video. It was well made and very informative. I ordered this very tool with the addition of several brass bases. Serendipitous that you made this video just as my tool is set to arrive. Thanks again !
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the feed back, another tool I need.
Great video, was considering getting a clone staking tool now I can see that it will work. Also need it more to shrink hands when the originals are a bit enlarged. Thanks!
Man am I happy that I found this channel! Your videos are so amazingly helpful for someone else getting started on their watchmaking journey. I have been dreading how much I'd have to spend to get a Horia tool, but now that I know the Chinese version is perfectly fine, I am stoked to get one. Same goes for a vintage L&R machine. I have been seeing units in good condition going for a thousand bucks or more, which is just insanity. Now though, armed with the knowledge and wiring diagram from your video, I am looking forward to buying a more beat up one, and restoring it myself! Can't wait for more uploads, you rock! 😄
I'm so glad this has been helpful to you. You're comment really brightened my day!!
Whoa! Which video is that, I am a year late to this channel it appears.
I’ve ordered this clone tool and am waiting for it to arrive. Hopefully I have the same luck as you did here. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching, I hope you find the tool as useful as I have! Good Luck!!
Great video. There’s no better between Seitz or Horia, it’s just a personal preference. Quality is up there on both. Some prefer Seitz, including myself, because you can measure the depth of the jewel before removing it, and then you don’t even need to look, just press the lever and it should be right on spot. Sure you have micrometer and can use the numbers for reference but the fact that you can just push it it’s in my opinion a plus over the turning the micrometer to set the stone as sometimes you can use a little hump to push it into place, something that the Horia can’t. Either one is a great choice but it’s all about how one feels while using it properly.
You bring up some good points! Thanks for watching and for the great comment!!
This is fantastic. I have the exact same problem with an Elgin 18s pallet jewel and can't believe how straightforward this is with the right tool. Annoyingly, the Elgin's jewels on the ¾ plate are screwed down and easily removed but the mainplate jewels are pressed in.
Hi Michael, thanks for the great comment. I hope it turns out well!!
Great video. Thanks from Spain
Thank you too! Glad you enjoyed it!
🎉Thank you for this video. It was as a result of watching that I decided to purchase the same tool. Learned so much from your video. Thank you.
Hey Ross, Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind comment!!
Thank you for this. I’ll be thinking about one of these in due course.
Thanks for watching. I'm loving mine!!
Excellent tutorial Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
thank you for so great review, I been looking to this clone, and trying to find thereal deal on ebay but if they shows up goes crazy now I'm going to pull the trigger on this one. thank you again, waiting for another great review like the main spring winders clone.
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching.
Such a great video, so helpful! Thank you!!!
Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
I have the same tool set and found that some of the anvils did not fit the tool so I placed them in a drill chuck and using a fine emery board to reduce the size until they did fit. Once this operation was done the tool is perfectly square. So for a little outlay and a bit of fetling you have a perfectly functioning jewelling tool.
Some adverts say that these are made by OEM for the swiss companies and that these are just non branded. Go figure...
Hi Darren. Thanks for watching and for leaving the great comment! Thankfully my Horia Clone did not have the same issues that yours did but thanks for sharing your solution to the problem. I'm sure this can help others with the same issues.
Thank you for sharing this. 👍
My pleasure
Great info! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for the review. Subscribed
Awesome, thank you! Appreciate the Sub!
love it mate. thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for video I have replaced my jewel on a watch
Wonderful! Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad it helped.
you do fantastic work i have just started out and im very new watching videos how to do it@@watchasilearn
Well done lovely refit job done my Rolex 5513 for up grade olive seitz
Thanks so much for watching and for the comment.
Interesting video - useful link to the tool, many thanks. For the bridge though, are you not making the assumption when taking a reading for the depth that the replacement jewel will be exactly the same thickness as the old one? Maybe that's universally the case (I don't know!) but otherwise you'd need to set the endshake from the other side... I may have misunderstood of course, as I currently exclusively do clocks rather than watches....
Good point! I think of it more as a starting point and then check endshake as needed. Thanks for watching and the great comment!
love your content very much, i was just curious to get the 21 jewels I thought the excapment wheel and the pallet have hole jewels and cap jewels. maybe that waltham has a jeweled barrel i didnt see
This channel is so underrated.
edit: it wasn't very clear, indeed.
Not quite sure how to respond to that but I really appreciate you watching and leaving a comment!
@@watchasilearn Sorry, I meant that your channel deserves many more subscribers.
I knew what you meant, I just don't know how do increase my viewership or subscribers....I haven't quite cracked the code of the CZcams algorithm yet. LOL I appreciate your kind words and the spirit in which they were intended.
Hi. Great video. Well done doing this. Where did you buy the tool? Also I thing main spring winders need a Chinese video like this. Must be many more you could do!
I got found it on Ebay.
Thanks for watching!!
Super nice
Thank you
Hello, I was watching your video, and it’s great information, and your work is great! Keep the good work! I am very interested in buying one of these Horia clone jeweling tools. Would you recommended after all the time you have had it? I appreciate your help!
thanks for sharing. 😊👍
You bet! Thanks for watching!!
Just a tip, may or may not be useful to you, but whenever you order a jewel, order 2 of it. It might just slip away in your tweezers, which is rare if you're good, but it's always good to have a backup.
That’s a great tip and something I almost always do. I figure that even if I don’t use it for the watch im currently working on, it’s good to build up a back stock of jewels so eventually I won’t have to stop what I’m doing and order a jewel for a future project!! Thanks for watching and for the tip!
what are you're watch making education credentials?
@@davidcrandall4958 I'm a Rolex level 30 watchmaker. I trained under Rolex directly under their Docimus program. I graduated as the youngest watchmaker in Rolex history. I trained in the Bahamas, the Cayman Islands and Geneva, Switzerland. I have a small store where I repair and sell watches now.
Big fan
Thanks so much, I love the encouragement.
Thank you for an excellent video. I just bought the Jeweling tool and look forward to its arrival from China. I am not at all confident that I know what size jewel to order. Is there possibly a more in-depth explanation available? I have a plate jewel in a gold setting that needs replacement and I have another watch with a plate jewel similar to that in your video. I appreciate your help. Happy Holidays
Hi Edward, thanks for watching and for the kind words. The jewel in the gold setting I believe is called a Chaton. I have yet to tackle one of those yet. Both Mark Lovick at @watchrepairchannel and Kalle Slaap at Chronoglide both have videos about replacing jewels. These may help.
@@watchasilearn thank you for your reply. Happy Holidays
Thanks for this Mark - great video and tool, glad I found your channel. I have a similar comment to Windsoruk, in that the measurement taken right before pushing out is with the old jewel in place. If you screw down on the new jewel, should it not be the measurement at that point ‘plus’ the reading taken right before pushing out? So for arguments sake using your main plate example, if you screw down on the new jewel and your reading on the micrometer is 21 and your reading when sinching up on the new jewel at 16:09 at about 82 should be 82 + 21 not ‘to’ 21? I’m a bit confused 😕
Hi Jon, I guess I didn't explain this very well, sorry for the confusion. The reading of 21 only shows the depth that the pump pusher was at when it was in contact with the top of the original jewel when it was in place. When I'm screwing down on the tool the only number I'm concerned about is the 21. The number of 82 you referenced is of no consequence, the only number I'm concerned with is the 21 because that will mean that the pump pusher has pushed the top of the new jewel to the level that the old jewel was. Of course you will still have to check the end shake to make sure it is seated properly but it's a good place to start. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Reach out to watch makers
Thank you for making this video.
I would like to get into watch modifications and eventually gradually start movement restorations. Do you have any directions as to what are some things I can be doing? So far I have bought basic tools more geared for modding from DIY watch club using a NH35 movement. (I successfully changed the date wheel, hands,and dial to aftermarket seiko parts not given by the company)
I’ve read practicing on a pocket watch works well being that the parts are bigger and easier to work with. I also want to try and disassemble and reassemble the movement.
Any advise on good books, schools or things that has best served you in the past to help build your skills. Thank you in advance! 😁
Hi Skyler, thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I hope you enjoy this new hobby as much as I am. In fact, if you watch my very first video, I Begin My Journey Into Watchmaking, I cover exactly those questions. I tell what tools I bought, what movement I started out with and where I found the best instruction that got me started!! I hope you find it useful. Good luck on your "Journey Into Watchmaking" also!!
hi, just the video ive been looking for, very well explained. very helpfull .but could i ask, does the measurment 0.02mm apply
to wrist watch movements as well as pocketwatches?
many thanks in advance.
Hi Paul, yes I believe it does. As I explained in the video I got the 0.02mm information from a Chronoglide video about replacement jewels. In the video I don’t believe there was a distinction made between pocket and wrist watch movements. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!!
This was very informative. So glad I don’t have to buy the high dollar one to get good results. Have you yet found a decent main spring rewinder at a decent price? Thanks Marc.
Hey Thanks for watching! I actually did get a vintage mainspring wind made by Marshall. It works really well! I show how I use it in my video “$10 garage sale watch”. You should go check it out
If end shake needs adjustment, should the pivot be adjusted, or the jewel?
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment. If end shake needs to be adjusted you should adjust the jewel. Hope this helps.
Hi, can I ask where your sourced the replacement jewel from? From what I have been told, the modern jewels (eg Seitz or Borel) are incompatible with the settings in these antique pocket watches?
Hi Jimmy. In the video, at about the 12 minute mark, I literally took you to the exact website I ordered the jewels from and showed you which ones I ordered. While sometimes it is necessary to ream the holes to get the new jewels to fit properly, in this instance I didn't have to. The jewels I ordered fit just right. Thanks for the comment.
@@watchasilearn Hi, I'm wondering how we should ream the hole if we don't have the Seitz tool with reamers? Thank
Hi and thanks for watching. I think you may be able to ream the hole with a set of cutting and smoothing broaches. That should give you ability to widen the hole just a bit to fit the new jewel. I hope this helps.
@@watchasilearn thanks for your answer, I'm concerned because it should be exactly 90 degrees and measurements should be precise. Love your videos keep it going 😁
Very informative, but I see the Horia clones come in both 3mm and 4mm sizes. Which size did you chose and why? Could you explain what the difference is between the two versions? Thanks,
Hi Coad, thanks for watching. I got the 4mm size because I also have the Seitz Jeweling Tool which comes with additional reamers, pushers and anvils so that I can use them in both tools.
At present I am looking for where the 4mm up and down version can be located. I have seen on the web 4mm x4mm then in the specs and description there it is spindle 3mm and table 4mm.
Is this a Hamilton 992 movement? I’ve bee. Working on one and this looks exactly like it
Actually that is the baseplate of a Waltham Model 1908 pocket watch that I affectionately call "Frankenstein". You can see the complete movement in my video "Waltham Pocket Watch Brought Back To Life." Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
A link for purchasing it please
hi! is there any missalignment on the anvils and pushers? mine is a little out of center
Hey Marios, no I haven't noticed anything out of alignment. Perhaps you could send it back and ask for a replacement?
@@watchasilearn can you recommend a seller that you chose to buy?i bought s faulty one and i noticed the provlblem after 1 month.so no return.please recommend
@@mariosantoniou9706 in the video at about the 1:50 mark it shows the actual ebay listing of the auction I bought mine from. The seller info is there. Hope this helps.
Any thoughts about the Bergeon hand press clone?
I don't love it but it seems to work ok. The main problem I have is that the plastic tips designed to fit the different sized hands, i.e. hour hand and minute hand, are too small. I'm sure that's because this was intended to be used with wristwatches and I'm focusing mainly on pocket watches at the moment. Also, the arm that pushes down on the hands has quite a bit of side to side play in it. So it is hard to be any more precise while using this tool than you would be if you were just doing it by hand.
@@watchasilearn I’m a watchmaker who works for a brand, but I’m thinking about assembling some wrist watches at home. I’m considering one of the clone hand presses on Aliexpress. The timing machine and maybe Horia tool also. If you made a video about the hand press and timing machine, I’d watch it for sure. 😁
I’ll add it to the list of suggestions! Thanks!!
Hi Mark, great video, thanks for posting. I just bought one of these jewelling tools, and I have a question with regards to the operation of the tool. When I turn the adjustment knob, it feels loose for the first quarter turn or so, and then resistance increases. This seems odd to me, and there are no instructions with the unit, and I was wondering if yours behaved in the same manner?
Thank you, Garry
Hi Garry, thanks for watching! Mine doesn't seem to have that loose feeling that you describe. Hope this helps.
Hi Mark, you know, I ordered another one and returned the one I had. The new one functions more like I expected.
Thanks for your response,
Garry
@@watchasilearn
Oh, I'm glad you were able to get that issue resolved. Best of luck!!
Hey Garry did you get yours from Amazon? I’m thinking about getting one too. Sometimes you have to go through a few iterations of the cheap stuff.
Hi, yes I did, and I had to go through a couple of iterations of the device as well. First one arrived badly damaged, sent it back. Second one better, but not very smooth. Third one I kept. Not perfect, but functions well enough. Hey, you know, $150. Caveat emptor! @@XJ290
I want to order this one thanks
I hope you like it as much as I do. Thanks for watching!!
Does it matter which way up the jewel goes
Yes, it sure does. Usually it's best to note the orientation of the jewel before you take it out or if that is not possible, in general the flat side of the jewel will face towards the interior of the movement. However you should try to research the movement prior to ordering and installing the jewel. There are jewels when have no flat side. For example, Convex Balance Hole Jewels. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@watchasilearn íthanks 4 getting back all the best u.k.
Where's the link to the tool?
Hi Roger, I actually found the one I bought off an ebay listing. I don't have an affiliate link. There are several more just like it listed on ebay.
Does all inserts fits in the upper hole?
Hi Bojan, great question. Yes, the shanks on both the pushers and the stumps are 4mm so they will fit in both the upper and lower hole. Thanks for watching!!
@@watchasilearn thanks for your answer, can you share the link of the tool, the seller you bought it from? Thanks, looking forward to your next video .
Hi, I just checked and the seller I bought this from on eBay is no longer available. I would just find a seller who has a good feedback rating from several buyers and go for it. 😃
@@watchasilearn thanks 🙂
what are your watch making education credentials?
Hi David, Thanks for watching. In order to give you the most complete answer to your question I would recommend you watch my very first video linked here, czcams.com/video/lH5BtjUXyDA/video.html.
This will answer your question and give you an idea of why I began this channel. Hope you enjoy.
I noticed u only went to forty three
Hi Allan, thanks for watching! Each hash mark is 2 on the scale.
Sorry to say but few things are totally wrong in your video. At min. 14.06 the hole from jewel should be 0.02 bigger than pivot (thats correct) but it seems that the hole is big enoug to let the whole shaft thru.. It schould stop at the shoulder... At 9.10 you measure the setting depth from the top... If you repalcement replacement jewel have not the same thickess you have hudge problems.. Measure from the inside, always correct,( as far that the endschake was ok)
Thanks for watching and thanks for the tips!!
That looked like 43