I have been watching several of your videos and you must be one of the few best car mechanics in CZcams. Your detail explanations, knowledge and variety receives a 10/10. Great job and please continue to educate us the DIYs. Thanks
If you're using a dual action or random orbit machine, following directions, doing your prep work and test spots and working with common sense you're almost guaranteed to not damage paint, so don't let that scare you away from wool or microfiber pads. They are incredibly useful and necessary for cutting those deeper defects that foam won't get, especially if youre using an entry level machine. Always, start with the least aggressive method and work up. I test polish before even beginning compound, some paint is soft enough that compound would be overkill and is not needed. Always remember your job when detailing is to literally do as little as possible to get the desired result.. =)
That's not really true, you can still damage and burn paint or clear coar. If you got a proper tool it doesn't mean accidents or errors can and most likely will happen if the user doesn't know what he's doing
@@RomboutVersluijs well of course there can always be a few exceptions. Some degree of common sense and basic knowledge is expected or they shouldn't be operating power tools in the first place. If they're looking for more cut, they should have some experience and success running a polisher already. But with a DIY level polisher and polish and a user who is intelligent enough to read and follow directions it takes an absurd lapse in judgement to burn through. Like leaning on the polisher holding it in the same spot on an *edge* for 10+ seconds straight. Yes, it *can* be done, I've experimented on test panels, but I've never accidently done it and don't know anyone who has, and I've trained many people. Fear of burn through certainly should not dissuade anyone from the enjoyment and benefits of learning paint correction. Though I would suggest everyone practices on test panels and learns what it takes to burn through in various scenarios before starting the real deal. But these are just my own personal opinions based on my experiences, I'm not saying I'm an expert, just someone who does paint correction professionally. Brian @ Apex Detail is who I consider the best. He walks you through everything you need to know to safely achieve beautiful professional results. 😀👍👌✌
@@jdisdetermined thanks for the lengthy response! The more videos I watch the more I get a felling one shouldn't just try this. They make it sound you can burn paint very easily.
@@RomboutVersluijs the fact that you're doing the intelligent thing and taking your time to research and learn before you jump in to it tells me you'll be successful. For even more peace of mind, you can use some 1/4" 3M Precision or similar quality thin masking tape, and mask off panel lines, edges, peaks, etc. and polish them separately by hand until you're more comfortable. A thin tape is best because your pad can pass over the tape without catching on it while you're polishing. Here is one example of just how much it can take to actually get through the clear coat in one small section. That is with a long throw polisher, and a very aggressive wool pad and heavy cutting compound. Maximum cut. With a standard 8mm polisher, and a softer pad and polish, like you would use for an enhancement or one step, you would be there for days! 👇 czcams.com/video/mBGT7tNqV1w/video.html As long as you keep the polisher moving, you have absolutely nothing to worry about. You got this! 😀👍
Clay bar to remove stuck on surface contamination needs to be mentioned as it will get you that smooth as a baby bottom finish without removing any of the clear coat. Wash to remove loose dirt, Clay bar to remove stuck on roughness, polish to remove water spots and scratches/swirl marks, and wax for the slickery protection of the finish.
Amazing video!! Been wanting to find videos to learn how to buff and polish since I’m a do it your self kinda guy.. much appreciated now time to go shopping exactly what you showed on this video!
I always enjoy stopping by and this video is perfect for me as I am just starting to research detailing. My wife's car needs some attention and now I have a direction. Awesome timing brother.
Although the Maguir's carnauba wax is popular and available from local stores, P21S carnauba wax has a few advantages over every other wax: 1. P21S wax wipes on and after a minute wipes off without needing to buff 2. P21S does not leave white crust in crevices like other waxes that contain cleaning compounds. It dries pretty clear. 3. P21S does not leave greasy smear marks when you run your fingers over the finish to enjoy the feel (provided your fingers are clean of course) 4. A while back group of enthusiasts got together to publish a test of 40 or so waxes and polishes and P21S outlasted all the natural waxes and was the easiest to apply. 5. It contains NO Abrasives. That's a good thing if you've polished and used a clay bar to prepare the surface for wax sealing. Obviously not a good thing for those you want a one-step approach. But then you wouldn't be watching this video, right? I order P21S wax through Amazon: www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Thanks for the detailed video! Question though, my car's hood looks just like the one in this video and appears that the clear coat is gone because it's not glossy any more. Should I start apply a clear coat first then start from the FINISHING pad and Compound? Thank you!
Good video but it would have been good for me if you had commented on the hardness of the foam not just the the colour when describing cutting and finishing pads. I've bought some EBay pads and I'll have to investigate further to check out which does what for the ones I have. I'm thinking soft for cutting and hard for polishing? EDIT I now think I got that backwards.
Also, with liquid and spray on waxes, it's harder to control where the wax is applied. I prefer a hard wax because the liquids can drip down into cracks and the spray on kind get all over the windows and other places you might not want to wax.
Really really useful video, pay attention fools, you can clarify a bunch of junk on u’r head, every time that I went to the store all those tricky names for the same thing blowed my brain out trying to figure it out about what to use with what I had at home, man thankfully like for this video 👍🏼
Hi this is a great video and as per usual I have saved for future reference. A newbie question: Is it possible to lightly dampen a wool pad to reduce the risk of dry buffing and overuse of the compound? If yes then would it be water or something akin to the compound ingredients?
Hey you're awesome and I just subscribed to your Channel this was very helpful. I am a student of auto body collision trying to restore my car and I was very confused on buffing. I watched your video even took notes and hopefully I'll do better my next time. Thank you
What kind of pad should I use with the new turtle wax one and done compound? I know I’m oversimplifying it and to top it off I’m doing it by hand. But using a medium cutting pad along with a polishing pad would defeat the purpose of the one and done, wouldn’t it?
Thank Jesus there's a universal color coding standard across all brands of pads. Imagine the confusion if different brands used different colors for the same type of pad!?! I'm also thankful that all manufacturers explain clearly, using unambiguous, concise language and similar terms to describe what each and every pad is meant to do. Imagine the chaos if they had different systems. Sweet Lord, it would be like they were intentionally trying to confuse the consumer. Just pair up the right glaze with the right polishing pad and you're good to go. Happy compounding. All your base are belong to us!
How about Scholl S20 ? I have managed to remove pretty heavy swirl marks from careless washings in 3 passes. Used wool pad but with wool been as human straight thin hairs. Pad went dry in seconds. Every half of the pass had to reapply S20 and moisture pad with spray water. Loved the results but process and amount of product made me cry. Tried medium firm thick none flexi pad but for noob me it was jumping in my hands and i could not get to hard to reach , places and bends .... Could you please recommend some flexi pad for Scholl S20 1 step compound. I need flexy so can press on the edge and get it flexing over bends. Please Kind Sir
MCFriedChicken1 engine burning oil due to piston rings. It leaking from piston rings as they get old, thinner out of shape from normal wear. So you have 2 choices. Rebuild engine or switch to heavier oil. If you using 5w20, switch to 5w40 10w30,or 10w40, with oil additive from Slik 50. Try 30,40 oil, and see if 30 oil reducing oil burning less enough. If not go for 40 oil.
On tough ,thick oil leaking. You mean when you changing oil and find thick oil on filter and during draining? If so either from cheap oil and filter as they don't filter dust from outside the engine. Dust are smaller than metal parts screw together. On top of that engine exposed to open environment. This theory is not far from truth. But next part is because not change oil on time. You need to engine flush,buy engine flush liquid, framing your oil ,and dump in the engine flush liquid and start up you engine and idle for 15 minutes . After that drain it. Repeat one more time if more sludge comes oil.
Hi Ratchets, I do not have any clear coat scratches or damage BUT the clear coat has areas/patches that are dull and hazy on my hood. Can I use a polishing compound followed by a finishing compound with microfiber cloths or can you please suggest something. Thanks
How long is the liquid wax supposed to last? Months or years? Also is this new top coat stuff like F11 or The Last Coat, a replacement for wax or do they go on after the wax?
You only need to do 2 step (compound with medium/hard foam pad + then polish with a soft black foam pad) then apply a high grade sealant (synthetic wax). If you're doing it first time be sure to use a DA polisher as it will be easier to avoid costly mistakes of burn through. Menzerna makes a great sealant, I love griots boss correcting creams, very user friendly and not grabby to get off when finished. Also, don't forget to wash your car with a unbalanced PH soap that will remove old polymers and wax or it will clog your pads and be an issue (purple power auto/boat wash is good soap). Also, right before compounding make sure to clay bar your car to remove embedded contaminants (most important step). If you don't have really deep marks, I would use an All-In-One polish to remove most of your spider webbing/love marks. Just pick a system you want, and familiarize yourself with it, don't overthink every aspect. Hope this helps, my experience as prof detailer.
stgreen78 I m 100% sure its transmission oil and I can't find videos on this (still looking).... its not rear main seal cuz my engine oil level on dipstick remains full ... what could be the prob? Thanks for da help
Mirza Sahal look for clutch replacement videos. I don't do trannys (I have been fooled before though lol:) but there must be a seal between the rotating part of the transmission & the part that doesn't rotate. It'll be on the transmission side of clutch parts. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on this will chime in. Also be sure it's that joint & not an oil leak above/transmission pan leak. Clean it really well & make sure of where it starts.
This has nothing to do with waxing, but I've got surface rust on the hood of my jeep ( that's the way I got it ) I would like to know the step by step on removing it and to stop it from happening again, I don't want to have to paint it ( just primer and maybe clear coat ) what do you think. Thanks Larry
If the rust is present it's coming from the bare metal as it's exposed to air. If you don't want to repaint it you can just touch-up paint if the rust area is not large. Scrap off the rust using a sharp tool, then clean the area with isopropyl alcohol (found at Walmart or any grocery stores) and touch-up paint. Let it dry and apply another layer. You can't use primer as it only goes under the paint not over it. Primer is used on bare metal to seal the metal and for painting.
*Good **MyBest.Tools** power and rpm control.*
I have been watching several of your videos and you must be one of the few best car mechanics in CZcams. Your detail explanations, knowledge and variety receives a 10/10. Great job and please continue to educate us the DIYs. Thanks
Finally, the best explanation of polishing / pads usage. 😀👍
If you're using a dual action or random orbit machine, following directions, doing your prep work and test spots and working with common sense you're almost guaranteed to not damage paint, so don't let that scare you away from wool or microfiber pads. They are incredibly useful and necessary for cutting those deeper defects that foam won't get, especially if youre using an entry level machine.
Always, start with the least aggressive method and work up. I test polish before even beginning compound, some paint is soft enough that compound would be overkill and is not needed. Always remember your job when detailing is to literally do as little as possible to get the desired result.. =)
That's not really true, you can still damage and burn paint or clear coar. If you got a proper tool it doesn't mean accidents or errors can and most likely will happen if the user doesn't know what he's doing
@@RomboutVersluijs well of course there can always be a few exceptions. Some degree of common sense and basic knowledge is expected or they shouldn't be operating power tools in the first place. If they're looking for more cut, they should have some experience and success running a polisher already.
But with a DIY level polisher and polish and a user who is intelligent enough to read and follow directions it takes an absurd lapse in judgement to burn through. Like leaning on the polisher holding it in the same spot on an *edge* for 10+ seconds straight.
Yes, it *can* be done, I've experimented on test panels, but I've never accidently done it and don't know anyone who has, and I've trained many people. Fear of burn through certainly should not dissuade anyone from the enjoyment and benefits of learning paint correction. Though I would suggest everyone practices on test panels and learns what it takes to burn through in various scenarios before starting the real deal.
But these are just my own personal opinions based on my experiences, I'm not saying I'm an expert, just someone who does paint correction professionally. Brian @ Apex Detail is who I consider the best. He walks you through everything you need to know to safely achieve beautiful professional results.
😀👍👌✌
@@jdisdetermined thanks for the lengthy response! The more videos I watch the more I get a felling one shouldn't just try this. They make it sound you can burn paint very easily.
@@RomboutVersluijs the fact that you're doing the intelligent thing and taking your time to research and learn before you jump in to it tells me you'll be successful. For even more peace of mind, you can use some 1/4" 3M Precision or similar quality thin masking tape, and mask off panel lines, edges, peaks, etc. and polish them separately by hand until you're more comfortable. A thin tape is best because your pad can pass over the tape without catching on it while you're polishing.
Here is one example of just how much it can take to actually get through the clear coat in one small section. That is with a long throw polisher, and a very aggressive wool pad and heavy cutting compound. Maximum cut. With a standard 8mm polisher, and a softer pad and polish, like you would use for an enhancement or one step, you would be there for days! 👇
czcams.com/video/mBGT7tNqV1w/video.html
As long as you keep the polisher moving, you have absolutely nothing to worry about. You got this! 😀👍
@@jdisdetermined thanks for the link I'll ha e a look at it
The best video on explaining this topic hands down!
Clay bar to remove stuck on surface contamination needs to be mentioned as it will get you that smooth as a baby bottom finish without removing any of the clear coat.
Wash to remove loose dirt, Clay bar to remove stuck on roughness, polish to remove water spots and scratches/swirl marks, and wax for the slickery protection of the finish.
Sounds good to me thank you!
Amazing video!! Been wanting to find videos to learn how to buff and polish since I’m a do it your self kinda guy.. much appreciated now time to go shopping exactly what you showed on this video!
I always enjoy stopping by and this video is perfect for me as I am just starting to research detailing. My wife's car needs some attention and now I have a direction. Awesome timing brother.
The best-explained video ever I watched on the subject... thank you, sir.
He always does a great job of explaining. I like his car a/c repair.
Thanks for the video. Haven't heard this so well explained
Excellent,explained everything I needed to know in 10 minutes. Very well presented.
Thank you for the video brother learn alot from you.i dont know much about polishing trying to learn once again thank you
Very nicely done buddy! Very clear and thorough explanation of what is involved to do this type of job. Thank you!
Although the Maguir's carnauba wax is popular and available from local stores, P21S carnauba wax has a few advantages over every other wax:
1. P21S wax wipes on and after a minute wipes off without needing to buff
2. P21S does not leave white crust in crevices like other waxes that contain cleaning compounds. It dries pretty clear.
3. P21S does not leave greasy smear marks when you run your fingers over the finish to enjoy the feel (provided your fingers are clean of course)
4. A while back group of enthusiasts got together to publish a test of 40 or so waxes and polishes and P21S outlasted all the natural waxes and was the easiest to apply.
5. It contains NO Abrasives. That's a good thing if you've polished and used a clay bar to prepare the surface for wax sealing. Obviously not a good thing for those you want a one-step approach. But then you wouldn't be watching this video, right?
I order P21S wax through Amazon: www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Glad I found this one, well done. I'm missing your repair videos, you've always been a clear thinking teacher.
great video my friend and nice work place. wish I had a garage with space like that
Awesome Video Bro! I was confused on what to buy and now i know much more. Thankyou
So do u compound, swirl remover, then polish, then wax, right?
Great video for noobs trying to decipher what's out there. Thanks for over explaining!! You are getting more "polished" too. 😀
I learnt more from this short video than the last years worth elsewhere
Great presentation.
Thanks for the detailed video!
Question though, my car's hood looks just like the one in this video and appears that the clear coat is gone because it's not glossy any more.
Should I start apply a clear coat first then start from the FINISHING pad and Compound? Thank you!
Definitely hope you post more spray repair videos
Nice exp. I today apply Meguire Ultimate Paste Wax first time in my life and its not to hard to apply.
Detailed instructional video.Thanks for sharing the information. Helped.
informative for noobs lost in a maze of too much marketing strategies of these companies.
Compound for sale please
sr, you talk clear as crystal... thank you so much... thumb up and subscribed.
Good over-complicated tutorial. Thank you!
Good video but it would have been good for me if you had commented on the hardness of the foam not just the the colour when describing cutting and finishing pads. I've bought some EBay pads and I'll have to investigate further to check out which does what for the ones I have. I'm thinking soft for cutting and hard for polishing? EDIT I now think I got that backwards.
Also, with liquid and spray on waxes, it's harder to control where the wax is applied. I prefer a hard wax because the liquids can drip down into cracks and the spray on kind get all over the windows and other places you might not want to wax.
Can you do the video for car preparation/polishing and applying nano ceramic protection. Not for extreme cases but for regular cars.
Thanx from Perth Australia you are a great teacher!!!!!
I like this guy. Such an amazing explanation, simple and understandable.
Really really useful video, pay attention fools, you can clarify a bunch of junk on u’r head, every time that I went to the store all those tricky names for the same thing blowed my brain out trying to figure it out about what to use with what I had at home, man thankfully like for this video 👍🏼
So what pad would you use for just the polishing to get the shine ? You mentioned using a dual action polish machine so what pad goes on that
3M is the best all around brand for these applications. Maguires is a good cheap option for compounds.
Best explained video on topic perhaps on all of youtube ty
Hi this is a great video and as per usual I have saved for future reference. A newbie question: Is it possible to lightly dampen a wool pad to reduce the risk of dry buffing and overuse of the compound? If yes then would it be water or something akin to the compound ingredients?
Very good video. thank you
Hey you're awesome and I just subscribed to your Channel this was very helpful. I am a student of auto body collision trying to restore my car and I was very confused on buffing. I watched your video even took notes and hopefully I'll do better my next time. Thank you
Another great video Mr. Ratchet. I thought I was going to see you work and shine up that dirty car. LOL
That is a nice video and I thank you for explaining how to take care of the automobile's paint finish..
So, what's the difference between the smooth surface pads, hex surface pads, and the pads with the deep grooves and bumps?
Great video
What kind of pad should I use with the new turtle wax one and done compound? I know I’m oversimplifying it and to top it off I’m doing it by hand. But using a medium cutting pad along with a polishing pad would defeat the purpose of the one and done, wouldn’t it?
Thank you this was extremely helpful
Thank Jesus there's a universal color coding standard across all brands of pads. Imagine the confusion if different brands used different colors for the same type of pad!?! I'm also thankful that all manufacturers explain clearly, using unambiguous, concise language and similar terms to describe what each and every pad is meant to do. Imagine the chaos if they had different systems. Sweet Lord, it would be like they were intentionally trying to confuse the consumer. Just pair up the right glaze with the right polishing pad and you're good to go. Happy compounding. All your base are belong to us!
This explains it all. Excellent information.
I agree excellent information.
Love this channel! Time to polish up the Lincoln mark vii lsc
Very well explained bro, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video's. I want to see you use the compound and wax on the car. Good Info.
Can you do a video of you using these products on this car? Would love to see how it turned out! That finish is pretty bad.
Can you do a video about ceramic coating?
Thank you for information, I can see where I went wrong now, and hopefully put it right.
Very detailed explanation thank you
I liked this video and although I did not subscribe yet, I will watch your other videos.
Excellent video, and just what I needed to know, thanks.
Can you please tell me what is the difference between rubbing compound and cutting compound?
Thanks
What about clay bar?
How about Scholl S20 ?
I have managed to remove pretty heavy swirl marks from careless washings in 3 passes.
Used wool pad but with wool been as human straight thin hairs.
Pad went dry in seconds. Every half of the pass had to reapply S20 and moisture pad with spray water.
Loved the results but process and amount of product made me cry. Tried medium firm thick none flexi pad but for noob me it was jumping in my hands and i could not get to hard to reach , places and bends ....
Could you please recommend some flexi pad for Scholl S20 1 step compound.
I need flexy so can press on the edge and get it flexing over bends.
Please Kind Sir
Thanks for this video! Always informative!
How about prepping the clear coat for polishing?
After you wipe off the wax, do you buff it with the polisher?
good video
Good job. Thank you.
Excellent video Big Boss
Great video and very informative. Any chance on making a video on an engine burning too much oil? Or finding tough oil leaks?
MCFriedChicken1 engine burning oil due to piston rings. It leaking from piston rings as they get old, thinner out of shape from normal wear. So you have 2 choices. Rebuild engine or switch to heavier oil. If you using 5w20, switch to 5w40 10w30,or 10w40, with oil additive from Slik 50. Try 30,40 oil, and see if 30 oil reducing oil burning less enough. If not go for 40 oil.
On tough ,thick oil leaking. You mean when you changing oil and find thick oil on filter and during draining? If so either from cheap oil and filter as they don't filter dust from outside the engine. Dust are smaller than metal parts screw together. On top of that engine exposed to open environment. This theory is not far from truth. But next part is because not change oil on time. You need to engine flush,buy engine flush liquid, framing your oil ,and dump in the engine flush liquid and start up you engine and idle for 15 minutes . After that drain it. Repeat one more time if more sludge comes oil.
Hi Ratchets, I do not have any clear coat scratches or damage BUT the clear coat has areas/patches that are dull and hazy on my hood. Can I use a polishing compound followed by a finishing compound with microfiber cloths or can you please suggest something. Thanks
Thanks for posting this, it's a very helpful intro! :)
How long is the liquid wax supposed to last? Months or years? Also is this new top coat stuff like F11 or The Last Coat, a replacement for wax or do they go on after the wax?
Does the temperature affect the end results
Good Video, Thank You Brother.
Nice one dude
really helpfull body... thanks a lot
Dude I love this channel
After compounding
Do u use polish or swirl remover?
You only need to do 2 step (compound with medium/hard foam pad + then polish with a soft black foam pad) then apply a high grade sealant (synthetic wax). If you're doing it first time be sure to use a DA polisher as it will be easier to avoid costly mistakes of burn through. Menzerna makes a great sealant, I love griots boss correcting creams, very user friendly and not grabby to get off when finished. Also, don't forget to wash your car with a unbalanced PH soap that will remove old polymers and wax or it will clog your pads and be an issue (purple power auto/boat wash is good soap). Also, right before compounding make sure to clay bar your car to remove embedded contaminants (most important step).
If you don't have really deep marks, I would use an All-In-One polish to remove most of your spider webbing/love marks.
Just pick a system you want, and familiarize yourself with it, don't overthink every aspect.
Hope this helps, my experience as prof detailer.
Love the end! and the middle, and the beginning too...
Thank you.
How do you judge if the clear coat is getting thin?
If im using 3m polish step 3.. what pad i need to used.. i have a set rotary pad meguiars
Does it matter if we do it by hand?
Great vid, thanks! You didn't talk about paint sealants - would you put that on before or after the wax coat?
Good video
What about microfiber pads??
What step is the maxi pad used?
What I find very confusing, perhaps because I'm not English, is they use the same term foam pads for cutting and polishing
10:32 Immediately subscribed
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Thank u nices video
how do you clean your pads?
Boy! You say some of the most ridiculously funny things.
very good! Thanks! Take my grandma!
👍
What brand is the foam cutting pad
pablo castaneda Meguiar's, its on the description...
Hey,
My manual transmission is leaking oil from where it connects the engine.
what to do?
Mirza Sahal rear main seal if it's oil, if tyranny fluid could be a bunch of stuff...look for a video on that...not quick, but doable.
stgreen78 I m 100% sure its transmission oil and I can't find videos on this (still looking).... its not rear main seal cuz my engine oil level on dipstick remains full ... what could be the prob? Thanks for da help
Mirza Sahal look for clutch replacement videos. I don't do trannys (I have been fooled before though lol:) but there must be a seal between the rotating part of the transmission & the part that doesn't rotate. It'll be on the transmission side of clutch parts. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on this will chime in.
Also be sure it's that joint & not an oil leak above/transmission pan leak. Clean it really well & make sure of where it starts.
stgreen78 Ahaa I will look that up... I m sure abt the joint... thank u very much for ur help
Mirza Sahal no problem
Megquires m21 sealant for the best wax no residue pro wax ebay
yeah buddy
That hood or complete car looked like it need a proper wash first. Most looked to be dirt and dust
This has nothing to do with waxing, but I've got surface rust on the hood of my jeep ( that's the way I got it ) I would like to know the step by step on removing it and to stop it from happening again, I don't want to have to paint it ( just primer and maybe clear coat ) what do you think. Thanks Larry
If the rust is present it's coming from the bare metal as it's exposed to air. If you don't want to repaint it you can just touch-up paint if the rust area is not large. Scrap off the rust using a sharp tool, then clean the area with isopropyl alcohol (found at Walmart or any grocery stores) and touch-up paint. Let it dry and apply another layer. You can't use primer as it only goes under the paint not over it. Primer is used on bare metal to seal the metal and for painting.