One trick I’ve learned over time doing retainers is put a little bit of grease on the keepers and it helps them stay in place better. Keep up the great work. Love the vids!
🥺 that face you make when he blows out any metal shavings from the head while there's an open tub of assembly lube right next to it.
Pro tip: ALWAYS keep a lid on your grease except when you are using it. Lol. Other than that, great vid!
Let's do this! The amount of information i learn from you is insane. Makes me feel more confident working on mine. Wish you could come to the northeast 😂
Awesome vid man. Love seein it all come together little at a time. Can’t wait for the final product. 🤟🏼🤟🏼
If you install stem seals first it holds the valves in real nice. Try it. Plus you can push them on with your thumb if the stem isn’t in the a way
Always love the videos, and that mantra of "If I can do it, you guys can do it" is giving me confidence to do more of my own repairs and modifications! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Anytime! No with it being my first time I felt pretty confident in doing it. It too hard to do 😁
Use the flat head end of a small screwdriver and put assembly lube/vaseline on the flat head & valve keeper to stick the keeper to the flat head. This makes it 100x easier to put the keepers on. Put one keeper in & rotate it to the other side of the valve, then stick the other one in there. They actually teach you to do it this way in automotive school when building engines. Good to see you got them in with tweezers though haha I watch people throw tools around the shop getting so mad trying to get them in and dropping them with tweezers 😂 good to see the build coming together! I have a video on calculating bucket size too! Im curious to see if you use the same method!
I went through and used the smallest bucket size to calculate everything, time consuming but worked 😅 and next time I'll be doing that, the tweezers worked but not the best method 😅🔥
@@Smeedia That works! But yes that is a very time consuming way haha. I actually used all the buckets I already had (even if they were too tight for spec) as long as they had more than 0.002” clearance and were not constantly touching. Then I took all my measurements on every lobe and used as many buckets as I could! (They are expensive so this limits the amount you need to buy). Check the video out haha maybe it will give you a new way of calculating bucket sizes and save ya some 💵 🤙🏼
czcams.com/video/qog6rjB-bjk/video.html
Excellent work man... love your drive!
Love your videos I’ve learned so much watching your videos can’t wait to see the end result keep grinding 🔥🤟🏽👌
Hands on education Tanner the subie doctor👍 3 of my buddys watched this in my living room wrx/sti owners too, they were impressed when I showed'em your channel🤣 told em they were living under the rocks!
Eyyyyy, alqays appreciate sharing the videos! Hopefully it helped them out too 🙌🔥
Hey Tanner I’m in my final stages of my IAG stage 3 closed deck I’m porting and polishing my heads next steps I’m right with you this was good video for a clearer idea 💡 ✌️✊🏻
I saw a video on CZcams that has keywords "install valves without special tool trick and it works amazing.
It generally takes under 30 seconds per valve and it eliminates the chance of valve keepers flying off needing to be surgical about it.
That special tool is nice but definitely time consuming.
The other method uses 2 vise grips, spark plug socket and a piece of plastic similar to that made from sandwich bags although just about anything type can be used
Also that company 23 tool is a PITA just use the generic modified g clamp style it works way easier and your mate can borrow it too
Thanks mate, good vid.
excellent! ting'ing is a technical term! This is exactly the type of thing (if you haven't done this kind of work before) that you need to know and understand, devil is in the details! Great Vid!!! /bow
also, a little lube on the keepers can help them stay in place while you assemble
also, i have had to take a stone to the end of the valve to fix a tiny burr that can keep the retainer from going on correctly, very rare 14:40
Great video
Maaaaaan im dying to do some head work! This didnt help lol! Loved it! Cant wait to hear this start back up w/ zero ticking of course
Great video love the jargon and chit chat. F'noodle or ph'noodle?
If you put grease in the keepers they are easier to install. The grease helps them stick to the stem and not move around and they stay in place better.
So glad I came across this channel - phenomenal stuff 😊
Would you consider making a EL15 build video, how to squeeze some "moo powaaah baby" from it? Full tear down, get it back into 1 piece ...
Unfortunately not much you can do either them. You'd be better off swapping to a EJ20/25 for more power. 😭
@@Smeedia If I was to swap EL15 for EJ20 would that base Impreza be able to hold it? The transmission and other stuff? 2008 Impreza Hatcback 1.5 R 107 HP.
I would have to take a look at your channel in a bit more detail to see how that could be pulled off 😊
@@Smeedia Also - where do you look those engines up? Where do you buy them from? Thanks
You would need to do the rltrans, rear diff etc. People have done it but it's not really worth the time and money 😖 ebay or Facebook is where I see them pop up!
@@Smeedia Yeah - thought so about the time and money part. The thing is that since 2008 it got closely to 50.000 km and I doubt that I would find a replacment that had that little km haha. Thanks for the reply - will make sure to check out all of the videos. Take care 😊
I've seen people installing the valves with O2 sensor sockets and PVC pipes cut outs. But nothing like the proper tool to do the job well once, avoiding the possibility of damage to expensive components.
just bare hand the keeper covered in a bit a assembly lube makes it much easier
I might have the early stages of rod knock so I might need to rebuild my engine I have a 2015 wrx any advice? I’m mechanically advance but don’t have a bunch of specialty tools.
Just take your time and label when gling through everything, they're relatively easy motors to work around. If you do have knock make sure to get anything machined that needs to be
idk if these aftermarket valve seals are all the same for the IN/EX valves. The oem ones have tiny "IN" and "EX" for valve seals.
A little off topic but for my build my tuner says a catch can will not be good enough and that I will need an aos. I have not had any experience with an aos so could you explain a little bit about an aos and why it’s supposedly better than a catch can?
Get it. In doing my bugeye heads right now
You should do a meet and greet in the summer or a cruise up here in Washington
Hell yeah. I hope to have the bugeye up and going soon. I hope I can make it.
When you assembled the heads and put the keepers in, is there suppose to be a little gap between the keepers
Yes, they dont always touch, they will also spin around the valve as it's running over time
Checking this vid again, that sounds at 3:50 reminds how satisfying is when you load the M203 lol. Yeah man I think ill get that Comp23 tool and change the valves, springs and retainers myself. I got my eyes on the Ferrea valves springs and retainers kit, for STi they have 2 kits, Endurance and Drag which i dont know which one is the suggested for street use. I'll do cams as well, but do I have to do new valves? if theyre still good can I use them with Ferrea dual springs?
You don't have to do new valves but while it's all apart it's definitely not a bad idea to do them, I'll have to look onto the Ferrea a bit more, haven't used em yet 🙏
@@Smeedia i was checking the spring compressor tool, didnt know torque solutions has one, its $20 cheaper than comp23 but dont know if its the same quality and get the job done. We'll see.
For an N/A EJ25D is there any preference for Brian Crower or Supertech Valves?
hello is eg33 valves ,spring and cam bucket same as ej25?
Unfortunately the buckets are diffrent, I believe the valves are diffrent too
Hi, will a 2018 subaru outback wagon non turbo have a cam carrier leak/drip at 34,000 miles on the car? dealer is charging me $3555+.
I'm not keen on that spring compressing tool... seems like a good way to mess up the threads of the cam caps.
Finding part two a nightmare. Getting g fed up of CZcams. Used to automatically suggest next video now sends u anywhere but :(
Ahhh yes the getting the keepers to keep was a good time. I don’t think I asked are you staying MAF or going SD?
Did you had to send the valves to the machine shop so they could resurface for the new valves?
you explain very fast
Great vids man. Have you ever had valve spring failures or valve failures? I’m looking into built heads and have seen very mixed reviews about some valve spring/valve manufacturers. Thanks
No lapping of the valves?
@@Smeedia I have always been told to lap new valves, even after the seats were machined.
I haven't heard that, since the seats were machined to the valves they shouldent need lapping, the lapping should just help to clean up pitting kn the seat and the valve. But could be something I'm missing 👀
Brother, why didn't you record it with macro shooting frames???(
@@Smeedia frames brother) not flames)
I meant, with big zoom to see how you work with everything)
You should have lapped those valves before assembling the head completely
Why? The valve seats were cut to the valves and vaccumm tested to ensure a good seal
I understand that, but lapping them will help with seating/sealing better. You’ll see a difference in leak down percentages
You forgot to valve lash these! At least do it right man.
@@Smeedia you need to lash the outer part of the valve lip and mate it to the head. It will give you a better seal.
First press seals into space before putting valves in, dum dum
😂
#1 subie educator. Thanks for the tutorial. Seems to always be nerve racking when you have never done it before. That’s how I feel.
For real, after doing the first head it felt super easy 🔥