Servicing the Soundcraft Ghost part 1
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Part 1 of a 2 part hands-on tutorial by Richard Zeier about servicing the Soundcraft Ghost console. Richard is an experienced studio tech and former console builder for Neotek. His resume' also includes extensive work on Soundcraft, Neve, and Trident consoles, as well as audio product design.
Just got hold of a 24 channel Ghost and these videos are so valuable as the unit has been unused for some time and requires some TLC !!
Wonderfully informative video. Thank you so much for getting into this one. ❤️🎛☕️
Modular is always better. We have a Soundtracs CP6800 modular mixing desk, and the ability to service a single channel with the desk still active is so convenient. Great video, nice desk.
Hey @subculture-records, I totally agree. I built Neotek consoles four 7 years and serviced a lot of Soundcraft, Neve, and Trident consoles that were all modular, as all good consoles should be. The Ghost is an exception because Soundcraft wanted to offer an affordable console with a full-feature-set, and respectable performance, and for that much I applaud them. However, God help the poor tech that has to service it, and that tech happened to be me. My halfway solution was the Ghost 2.0 mod, that makes the console serviceable by installing hinges that allow the console to be opened like the hood on a car. If you haven't already viewed the 7-minute Ghost 2.0 video from 2020, it's worth checking out. Richard.
Thank you so much for sharing this!
Hi, great video, you mean Imperial measurement, yes we do we still use Feet, Miles, Inches, Pints, Gallons, Ounces, Acres and so on, its the Europeans that use Kilometres and Kilos , but we also use METRTRIC, Millimetres, informative video.
Hi Glen,
Yes, imperial, sounds more dignified than metric. That would explain the reluctance to switch. I’m about 33% there.
Thanks for sharing this video. I will be getting a 24 chan Ghost, and was nervous about how difficult it would be to service. Granted it seems like a lot of heavy lifting (for us musicians..ha) and bit tedious, you help make me more excited than nervous.
wow.. gr8
You may not know, The Guitar Center has had this, that they have had this on Back Order for years. Any of their consoles .
I'm really not aware. I know Harman, Soundcraft's parent company, was purchased by Samsung a few years ago and there were major changes afterward. The main headquarters and factory that once employed over 2000 people in Northridge, CA is long gone. I was there in 1996 when President Clinton visited and highlighted JBL/Harman as a shining example of American industry. Times change, but the Ghost is still a great example of British console technology in it's last days. Unfortunately, it's getting harder and harder to find parts to keep any analog console going. I've been fortunate so far to keep mine going.
Well done! For people that have the courage to service their console, jump to timestamp 20:13. These wires are nicely bent together, so that makes things easy. It happens that the previous owner didn't do such a nice job. A cable tree follows the same color coding as resistors: BK, BN, RD, OE, YW, GN, BE, VT, GY, WE
Q= Why exactly did you add those RF bypassing caps on the mic input section?
Hi Kevin,
I think the small caps bypassing the electrolytic DC blocking caps (phantom power) are what you're referring to. Using a small polypropylene cap to bypass a larger electrolytic cap in the audio path is a somewhat esoteric practice born out of a common practice in power supply design where it was recognized that at higher frequencies large caps appear as inductors to signals. Bypassing the large caps with a small cap allows the higher frequencies to see the cap as a cap. This extends the bandwidth of the signal path. Many have argued that any benefit gained is far above the audio range, yet others swear they can hear a difference. In any case, it's a relatively inexpensive mod if you're trying to squeeze every nano-dB of audio quality out of a circuit.
Richard
Ok. I don't know if it really makes an audible difference, but it surely is worthwhile trying it. Nevertheless, electrolytic cap's are a necessary evil and a real pain in the butt. Thanks for your answer, Richard.
quick note, to my knowledge, caps go bad when they're turned on and off, because they become hot and cool down again this way... so leaving a console on, might actually be the way to go...
From my experience in replacing thousands of capacitors, electrolytic caps go bad primarily from exposure to heat over time. This is supported by manufacturer data sheets that present ratings based on testing. The electrolyte compound actually breaks down and loses it's dielectric property over time and is exacerbated exponentially by the amount of heat exposure. Keeping equipment powered on continuously will create more heat over time and shorten the life of the caps. It's true that most failures occur when equipment is initially powered up, however, this is usually the result of the shock of in-rushing current stressing components that are already on the verge of failure. So in my opinion, power down when not in use. It will save you money, and is also better for the environment.
Thanks! Now I know that it is possible to service my 24 channel Soundcraft Ghost. Inserts of channel 1 and 2 are hardly working. Mix B of channel 24 does not work.
yo sweet vid! is there a mod list available with specific part #'s and that whole jam? Creative Labs keep em secret it seems
Everything I have written on the Ghost can be found on the RockItScienceAudio.com website. I don't mind sharing because I'm just a musician/composer/producer that happens to be an audio geek with a Ghost.
Hi Richard, thanks for the video. I have a 24Channel Ghost in front of me that wants to be beaten up. I was wondering what capacitors you installed. I was planning on changing all the capacitors to Panasonic FM 220uf 25v. Had gotten the recommendation from several forums. How do you see this ? Is there possibly a BOM ? That would be great. Thanks again !
Hey Vincent,
There is a BOM in the Ghost tech manual but is probably pretty useless at this point with the part numbers being obsolete. As for caps, I have always used Nichicon Fine Gold audio caps, although I've gotten end-of-life notices from Mouser recently. Panasonic FM are good caps too. As far as values, I don't recommend replacing all caps with a larger value. In most cases a cap of the same value but better quality is an upgrade, and depending on where the cap is in the circuit, a larger cap may actually cause problems. In a critical audio path like a mic pre input I will often replace a 47uF with a 100uF to lower the impedance. but with size restrictions will seldom use a 220uF, with the possible exception of an output from the console. It should go without saying, to never increase the size of power supply filter caps or decoupling caps, as this will cause excessive in-rush current that can damage your power supply. Have fun with it.
thats a real passion you have there. are these things known for needing servicing frequently? i wanted one years ago but i seem to find mostly info on how to fix them. going to try and get a soundcraft signature mtk 22
Hi Paul, I will be posting a new video about servicing the Ghost in the next week. It's a much shorter video with a radical new approach to servicing the console that will make it more attractive to own and maintain. It's a hyper-mod that I just did to my Ghost.
Richard
Great video, have you had any problems regarding the meterbridge? Mine has developed an intermediate fault - hoping I can fix it.
Thanks for posting this video, not many in depth Ghost vidz up. I was wondering as I've recently picked up a G24..do you or have you ever used the transport controls including Rec with a DAW? I've managed to configured the Dynamic Mute Automation via Pro Tools & Digital Performer, as well as the Transport minus the Rec Arm. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
When I first got the Ghost I was using it with an analog recorder and used the automated mutes when mixing but the tape machine had it's own auto-locator with track arming. After that I used an early DAW called Paris from Emu-Ensoniq that also had it's own full-function controller. Now I use an Avid Eucon transport controller and a Novation MkII for mutes, solos and track arming in Pro Tools and Cubase, but I have often thought about making use of the Ghost functions. Four of the group faders double as midi controllers and I've thought about dropping in 8 motorized faders that could be used as assignable DAW controllers and still be used as group faders when needed. However, all these things take time to implement and some times you just have to play music.
Richard Zeier Been a few years, but did you ever get to the motorized faders? Would love to see how you pulled those off. Thanks for ths vid!
Does somebody know the neutrik part number for the insert jacks. I wanna replace the insert jacks of my ghost but don't know which type of neutrik connector fits in the ghost.
Hi Maarten,
I believe the part is NMJ6HCD2-RM. If you haven't already done so, be sure to check out the latest Servicing the Ghost 2.0 video. czcams.com/video/7T-hYI319mg/video.html
Cheers
I began watching this video enthusiastically, but I’m a bit deterred now. I have a Ghost 32 with crackling EQ pots and a broken send channel, but I don’t know if this is something I can repair myself. :-(
Hi Richard, great video, very quick question, can the meter bridge be removed fairly easily? Many thanks for your videos! Cheers, Nick
Hey Nick, yes, the meter bridge is easy to remove and reinstall. It' was originally an option when ordering the console, so removing a hand full of easily accessible screws and a single D-sub ribbon connector will do the trick.
Hello Richard. Great Ghost Videos... I have just acquired a Ghost 32 and 24 Trk Expansion. I have a question when using the Groups. What I want to do is have 8 individual elements of the song (Drms, Bass, Gtrs, Vox, Keys...etc) be controlled by each of the 8 Group faders... Am I correct in assuming that IF for example, I have all my drums routed to Group 1-2, and Bass routed to Group 1-2... with the Drum Channel Panned hard L and Bass Channel panned hard R, Then in the group master section assign Group 1-2 to L+R for the Group 1 fader pair... THEN push the L button also for fader 1 of the pair and the button for fader 2 of the pair to R, will that send drums to the Mix L+R on fader 1 and the Bass to the L+R Mix on Fader 2 ??? Hope this is clear and Thanks in advance for your help
Hi Kewlerone,
I think what you are assuming is essentially correct, but only useful for mono applications such as a live PA mix. When the L+R is engaged the output of that group bus is now equally present on both the L and R of the Mix bus. Because the L+R switch is post fader, you still maintain level control of whatever is assigned to that group bus via channel panning and output switches. However, since I never do mono mixes and have no use for the L+R switches, I rewired them to hardwire bypass the faders to 0dB when engaged. This is convenient for me because it allows me to keep them down and out of the way most of the time, and also make use of the first 4 group faders as midi controllers while still using the group buses. Hope that helps.
Richard.
Hi Richard, Love your videos. Would you happen to know the part number of the CRM Level pot? Thanks in advance.
Hey Sampler One,
Yes, the part number is DM1292. That's the easy part, finding one is another story. Because it's the most used pot on the console, I've had to replace mine a couple times and still have one spare. However, the next time I change it, I plan on using a higher quality conductive plastic pot. I'm pretty sure there's enough room to mount one directly on the top panel, and mount a 3-pin .100 header in the vacated holes from the old pot. Then I will solder some short wires from the new pot to a female 3-pin connector to plug it in.
If time allows, I would like to use a 12 position rotary switch with 1% resistors instead. This will provide dead accurate consistent stereo imaging that is unachievable with any pot. I can also add a trim pot and calibrate key positions starting from 85dB SPL in the center going up and down in 2 or 3dB steps.
1st question, that high pitched hum during your video, how do I remove that from my mixer, digital keyboard, hardware etc...is it power supply related?
To be honest, I never noticed it before. The console is not even on, so it's not coming through the speakers. I suspect it may be noise from a fluorescent display on an old Korg O1W that is on a stand right behind the camera position. The mic on the camera has a built-in compressor making small room sounds seem even louder. I apologize for only spending $0.00 on the entire video production, but had I known how many people would eventually see it, I may have done more. Thanks for pointing it out and if I ever do a sequel, I promise the high-pitched noise will not be included.
@@RichardZeier LOL Hey, I wasn't trying to be a WISE A$$. How do i get that hum/buzz out of my keyboard, mixer etc.. is possible power supply or just how some hardware is made? I can somewhat hide it with Reverb and effects but I know it's there and have to adjust my MIX because of it.
@@AWUNMATERIAL If you would like a technical answer you need to be more specific. It's better to contact me through the RockItScienceAudio.com website.
That screwdriver..It s like going to a gun fight with a knife..
whats the spectrum analyzer in particular you used?
Hey Geckomabster,
The software is called TrueRTA. You can google it, it sells for $99 and runs on Windows computers. It can be used with ASIO interfaces and can be calibrated with a digital Voltmeter. I've got other professional equipment on the bench including oscilloscopes, meters and an HP Distortion Analyzer, but TrueRTA is still useful in addition to those things.
Hi Richard, thanks for the detailed vids on Ghost. Awesome stuff!
Since you have some knowledge about it, I hope you can help me out here. Recently I bought a 24 ch. expander to my 24 ch. Ghost LE. All connected, and working. But when Turning on the Expander, my main console goes to 'solo mode'. Meaning, the 'solo' light comes on and no sound out of the main mix. There must be a way to change settings, but can't figure out how. Have no manual for it, the web and different forums seem short on answers and even Soundcraft doesn't respond. Kinda stuck.
Somehow the PFL detect line from the expander is engaged. Since it operates off +17V it is only active when powered. The most obvious thing would be a solo switch engaged somewhere on the expander. It's convenient when solo buttons have a nice bright LED that comes on when engaged but be careful of the PFL switches that don't have LEDs. There are many solo switches on the Ghost that don't have LEDs including the stereo return PFLs, aux bus master AFLs, and group AFLs. Any one of these will engage the solo function with very little visible evidence. I am not familiar with the Expander, but I would first see if there are any unnoticed solo/PFL type switches engaged or possibly broken.
If not that, then I would check the wiring between the expander and console. Maybe a bent pin in a connector is shorting the PFL bus to the +17V. Since you have no audio yet, I would double check the wiring. I hope this helps, but I'm working with limited info here.
Thanks for the reply Richard! Will check all that, and double checked all the solo switches. I just found something soldered on the expander board inside the expander, might need to change this connection by desoldering this. You don't perhaps have the service manual for the Ghost laying around? It's a time consuming issue and have limited technical skills.
Hi Richard. I sat down tonight to do some mixing and my Soundcraft ghost didnt work. The power supply comes on but with only 2 lights on the front panel on but the console is not working, no sound no lights, nothing. Can you help or point me in a direction that would? Thank you.
Hi Joanne, sorry to hear your Ghost is down. The 3 PSU lights are for + 17V and - 17V and 48V. The console would still work if the 48V went down so I would assume it's the +17V or -17V, both of which would prevent the console from operating. I would say the problem is most likely in the power supply and the most common failures are capacitors. That is a broad assessment, but to gather more details would require putting the PSU on the bench. That is the logical direction and should get you started if you are technically equipped. p.s. If your Ghost is 20 years old, the power supply should probably be recapped.
@@RichardZeier Thank you so much for your prompt reply. The CPS 275 has 3 lights. The one that is not working is the 17V which seems to have the + sign with a - underneath. The other 2 are the +48V and +5V. The console and CPS are around 20 years old. I haven't opened up the cps but read somewhere that there is a fuse corresponding to the 17V that might have blown, caused by an underlaying problem with a rectifier. As I'm not a skilled electronics person I'm not sure what a rectifier is but would obviously be able to change a fuse. Thanks again for your help, very useful.
With my Ghost I have the PSM 300 power supply which is a switching supply. The CPS 275 that you have is a linear supply which is quite different and can be prone to rectifier problems. If you find that a fuse is blown, take a close look at it and it will tell you how it failed. If the glass fuse is completely black inside or has flecks of splattered metal, that means it suffered a catastrophic failure. Changing the fuse will likely result in another blown fuse until the problem is repaired. However, if the fuse looks relatively clean inside, and the filament is still visible, maybe bent or sagging, this means the fused suffered a fatigue failure over time. In this case, changing the fuse may get you going again. Good luck with it.
@@RichardZeier Once again Richard thank you for taking the time to reply. Just so as you know a fuse did blow. There is evidence of slight blackening and a fleck of metal. I bought some more fuses but didn't realise I was sold F fuses as oppsed to T and it blew straight away. I have a feeling that I need to get the unit looked at by a pro but will try a T fuse first just in case.
Question.I have a 24x8 Soundcraft Ghost with Blue Dog power supply. and recently, channel 11 started having a slight crackling/popping sound on the track. Long story short. After 2 months it traveled all the way to channel 16. All 6 channels now have the same symptoms. Before I pull the channels. Can you tell me what would cause this and what I should be looking for. I do amp repair so I understand some of this. Thank you.
Hi Ed,
There area couple things that can cause crackling/popping sounds. One being a rouge opamp that's failing and going into oscillation. Most likely in the mic pre, the frequency is usually beyond the audio range but what you hear is the starts and stops and changes in level. This can also be caused by failing pots in a high gain feedback circuit. There is one in the mic pre and the other is the Tape Return level. I have replaced several over the years and don't ask me if I have any because I only have a limited private stash. When a noise is strong enough it can bleed through the buses into adjacent channels, but the level should decrease the further away it gets from the offensive channel.
A good way to test the pots is too exercise them. This will usually stop or reduce the oscillation but is only a temporary solution. The pot must be replaced and finding replacements are challenging. There are still panasonic pots that will fit the footprint, available from various distributors, but you will not find the same value and style (resistance, shaft type, panel-mount, taper, detent, etc.). I have a few original mic pre pots that were special taper made-to-order, available in lots of 10,000 pieces only. I have a plan to replace those pots with a rotary switch but that may not happen unless a heavy demand develops. However, I did find some 10K pots on eBay to replace the 20K Tape Return pots and only needed to change one resistor in the circuit to make it work. Hope that helps.
Richard
@@RichardZeier Thank you for the reply. Im going to recap it myself. Im just wondering what replacement caps are you using. What else should I change out on the channels and Monitor section. Thank you
@@edauletta4421 I'm a big Nichicon fan and for audio I use the Fine Gold (FG) series audio caps. For power decoupling or ripple filtering I go with PM or PW series. Some people like Panasonic, but I'm not as knowledgeable about them. However, most through hole parts are being phased out and also becoming more expensive.
It's really up to you what to change. It's always a good idea to test everything thoroughly before tearing anything apart. Caps are a safe bet if more than 20 years old, especially if you replace them with a higher grade cap. Opamps would be next in line, but you really have to weigh the cost including your time versus performance gain. Insert jacks are also a safe bet.
There's a lot of mods I did to my console to enhance performance and add features that I wanted but may not benefit everyone.
Richard
Thank you for the reply. I’ve watched these videos many times. Very helpful. Would you know which caps I should get exactly? I don’t want to get the wrong ones. There’s so much mixed info out there. Thanks again. It’s really appreciated.
Any cap of the same value capacitance and voltage will work but I would recommend caps specifically designed for the intended purpose. Again, my preference is for the Nichicon FG series for the audio path. There are less expensive options, but it's always a good idea to read the manufacturer data sheets for reliable information. @@NorthEndRecordingPassaic
"the gave us the metric system, but didn't use it themself.." please see the "metric conversion act" from 1975 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metric_Conversion_Act it's YOU not using metric...have a great day and keep analog stuff alive people!
Hi Rickard Bruce here from Northjetty Recording studios
I recently had a meter bridge pcb card fail when i opened it up and took it out i notice the R-109 was burnt, +17V line witch runs
up to IC 22. there is a direct short to ground on pin 3 after further infestation I found that D-18 was shorted.
Have you had any issues like this ? I ordered 10uf 25v cap to replace it hopefully this will solve the problem.
I'm all so making a repair video on this as well. I will post it soon. Love your videos.
Hey Bruce,
I tried to follow the part numbers you called out, but unfortunately the schematic only shows one of the four circuits on the pcb card and doesn't include those parts. I've been fortunate to only ever have replaced a couple failed LEDs on my meter bridge in 25 years. Please send me a link when you finish the video. I'm sure I'll learn something new.
Richard
@@RichardZeier Hi Richard the schematic shows the main power inputs C-18 is upper left side of the pcb next the last led strips. each card is the same they just made 2 schematic pages. I'll send the link Friday or Saturday, thanks for getting back to me I'm all so upgrading my OP amps like you did.
I put in the cap and it worked fine. Take care.
@@RichardZeier I made a bad error it's c-18 sorry.
Richard,
Can you tell me or direct me to a Soundcraft dealer IN Los Angeles or San Fernando Valley ?
I'm pretty sure Guitar Center and Sam Ash are both Soundcraft dealers.
I've been desperately looking for a desk stand similar to yours, what's the name brand?
I ordered the Ghost with the stand and meter bridge options. It may be (or have been) a standard Soundcraft item that works with consoles other than the Ghost. Just a bit of added history; In 1996 I was working for JBL/Soundcraft in SoCal when the Ghost came out, and I took delivery of the very first one in North America. The standard 250W power supplies were not yet available so they kindly gave me a 300W higher grade supply from another console.
hi. i just got a ghost 24 off off reverb and it seems to have some problems in the master section.
some of the channels only work on one side and some don't work at all, 2 trka and the crm outs. do you think this can be fixed without opening the unit.
I'm tempted to just spray some contact cleaner in there.
Thanks for any advice!
The only thing you may possibly be able to fix without opening the console is if the problem is due to intermittent insert jacks that you will find on every input channel plus the group and mix channels. A quick insert jack test involves soldering the tip and ring together on a TRS plug and inserting it into the channel in question. If it is an intermittent insert jack the channel should work when the plug is inserted. Of course, this is only an indication that the insert jack needs to be replaced which will require opening the console, but you could make up enough of the TRS plugs to temporarily use the console. The only place where spraying anything into the console can be helpful is into the faders that seldom cut out completely, but can get scratchy. Be sure to use only Deoxit F5 (fader lube) or something else that will not harm the faders.
thanks very much i think im gonna end up sending it out for repair. oh brother!!!
nublackmusic was the repair expensive?
@@witnessthewrath8061 I sold the ghost mixer it was too much hassle for repairs. i now use the yamaha 02r96. i miss the ghost though!
I have a delta 200, its a breeze to open up.
He bench pressed the console
how does this console stand up against a SoundCraft Saphyre a desk that reggae producers love but is harder to get hold of
I've never actually had the opportunity to work on, or with a Sapphyre but from what I know about them they were Soundcraft's top-of-the-line recording console and in a different cost category than the Ghost, so I would expect higher quality construction. From looking at pictures, I see similarities to the Delta series or the higher-end live boards like the Vienna.
If your question is, how does a highly modified Ghost stand up against a Sapphyre, I would say it depends on the what's been done to the Ghost and what is the condition of the Sapphre. Sorry if that's not a definitive answer, but there are too many variables to consider, and I'm sure in capable hands both can work well.
many thanks