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Timing belt and water pump replacement 1.6 hdi (Ford,Citroen,Peugeot ect)
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2021
- Instructional video on how to replace the timing belt and water pump on the 1.6 hdi engines found in a huge range of Peugeot’s, fords, and Citroen’s.
Best cambelt video on CZcams, clear and to the point thank you very much 👍👍👍
Cracking video. Got this exact job to do on a friend's Grand Picasso next week. Done plenty of cambelts in my time but it's always good to know if there are any nuances of one you've never tackled before. This seems to be one of the easiest ones I've ever seen. Thanks for the upload. Very interesting.
The real life saver for me was that the left chain wheel (for the diesel pump, you say) doesn't need to be timed. In all other videos people do put a pin there, but mine would never line up no matter how many times I turned the engine around. So I was getting really freaked, thinking my engine must be ruined already, but then I found your video where you explain that this one doesn't matter, which really saved my day.
Another scary moment was when I started the engine and heard a terrible wining noise... I was panicking a bit, thinking that perhaps I had accidentally turned the engine anti-clockwise at one point without thinking. But it turned out that my accessory belt had become wet with cooling water while overfilling the reservoir, and probably some of the cog wheels of the accessory belt as well, and that was apparently creating that horror sound. After some minutes it gradually went away, and my engine was running just fine.
I did bleed the cooling circuit though. I found out about the bleeding screw on the other side of the engine from another CZcams video.
I'm really pleased with your very clear explanation and very good camera work. Thank you so much! I wish it was the first video I had found.
Glad it helped out mate, yea a lot of the times with the common rail pumps they don’t have to be timed.. however not all there are a few exceptions.
@@Chris_CDB Having same issue so decided to look at another vid!
Thank you for the clearest video on the water pump replacement of peugeot 207 1600 diesel. Saved me some money.
No problem, glad it has helped!!
mate what a perfect simple instructional video you made it so clear full of details and advice..this is best one i ve seen so far thank you...
No problem mate, good to see it’s helping people!
Mate, you became my fav source when I research on how to. I love your work. So informative. I recommend you to anyone just learning this beautiful profession. I'm here for taking the experience without actually doing it. Thank you very much.
I've watched tons of videos to do tons of jobs. This one is as good as they come. Straight to the point, clear of each stage of what you need to do, to do this job, with tips for things to look for that are easily missed. (Hidden bolts, tensioner technique etc) No unnecessary boring chat or long introductions. Top job mate 👏
Thanks mate, good to hear.
What an amazing video mate, 10/10. Simple and made to look easy.. just saved me a fortune!
No problem! Glad it helped!
Excellent video; one of the best 'how to' that I've seen. Thanks
Thanks mate. Happy to help!
Best video yet and so easy to understand thanks
Great video going to do my own belt kit on my van next week thanks for sharing
What a great video tutorial I’ve just been quoted £560 from my local garage to do this job I’m going to do the job myself thanks to your brilliant helpful video 👍
No problem, glad to help!
Good news, glad to help!
Deserves way more views than it has as the comments show, Top Instructional! (I'll forgive the pin out of line) Hard enough explaining simply while doing it, without filming it also! Many thanks
Thanks very much for this video, doing my brothers soon, private hire Taxi. Very detailed and easy to follow steps filmed by yourself, job is hard enough without having to film. Appreciate the effort you have put in to make this vid. Thanks very much, Vinny. 👍👍👍
No problem, that’s what it’s all about!
@@Chris_CDB about to do cambelt kit plus water pump plus oil and filter, hey our kid, when was last time you checked oil, erm, light on dash tells me oil ok,:-( well dipstick tells me it is not ok. Barely making a mark on bottom. :-( start engine, turbo screaming enough, no more please, wtf, how long you been driving it like that, just started doing that this morning. :-( well turbo is dead, picked up recon unit from AC turbos by Skelmersdale today, 360 sovs, including pipework and sump pick up pipe too. Cambelt job just got serious. :-):-)
This video was the best explanation for doing this belt type ,i have watched loads am now confident enough to do mine ,thanks ..
No problem at all, glad it can help!
If you get stuck, just send a message!
@@Chris_CDB hiya, is my 2011 focus 1600tdi same. so I can do mine. Great video. 👍
I think that is the best explained tutorial I've ever seen! well done Sir!! guessing my E-HDI engine in my 2013 Citroen is the same.
Yea mate it will be the same engine!
Thank you so much!!! very good explanation... greetings from Barcelona
Fair play to ye buddy. I watched a video from an other channel and wasn't near as clear what to do and ended up having to do it 3 times. Tomorrow will be my 3rd and final time now I've watched your video. Thanks for making everything you need to be careful about as I had to figure out most of what you said myself except for the engine mount replacement. I'll have it sussed tomorrow thanks yo you. Cheers mate keep up the good work! Subscribed!
No problem mate, that’s what it’s all about!, glad it helped, thanks mate!!
Very helpful full of detail and reliant information thank you great help
No problem!
Bang on mate literally the best explained video I have seen. I couldn't find any other video about the pin in the fuel pump and I spent ages trying to line the whole up but onboisky you don't need it.
Really really helpful, thanks
Amazing video very clear and top explanation my belt snapped and I'm attempting to do it my self I've got down to the valves and luckily none are bent just broke all the cam rocker rollers I should be able to time it back up now thanks
No problem, yes this engine should not bend the valves (unless under extreme conditions) so you should be able to rebuild the top and new belt on and away it will go!
@@Chris_CDB do you know now I've took camshaft out to replace rockers how I can time back up do I start by locking crankshaft first thanks then locking cam in place thankyou for reply
@@nellyboywinder8625 if you leave the cam out, put the crankshaft locking pin in, then pull the pin back out and rotate the crankshaft ANTI-CLOCKWISE by 90 degrees, that should set the pistons all halfway down the cylinders, which will then allow you to install
The camshaft, rotate the camshaft until it is into the timed position and then lock it into place, then after you have done that you can then rotate the crank CLOCKWISE back 90 degrees and put that pin back in. Then you are ready for your belt.
@@Chris_CDB thankyou for that detailed reply I'll do that once I'm ready for cam back in thanks for explaining it so it sounds like something I can do myself I was worried about getting it timed back up correctly so it doesn't break the rockers again 👍have a good day and thankyou once again
Hi I thought it was going well I thought it was timed up but went a few turns with ratchet then engine seemed to lock is that a indicated I've timed it wrong thanks
Thank you Brilliant.
No problem at all, glad to see the videos are useful to people!
Thank you for video. I have a 1/2 inch drive batttery impact gun. If the crank bolt will not come loose using this, appreciate if you could give me a tip for locking engine and removing with breaker bar.
Impact gun should suffice, if not then you will either need a helper for 2 mins or a piece of wood/bar jammer against the brake pedal and the seat… you will need to put it in the highest gear (5th or 6th), then have someone or something hold the brake pedal HARD to stop the engine rotating. That should hold it in place to give you the engine locking you desire.
Thanks for this, that looks like the same engine as in my 2012 Volvo V60 1.6. I took the top part of the cover off to inspect the timing belt (Volvo changed the service schedule for the D4162T D2 because some failed early, now belts have to be done at 87K and not 150K!).
The 2nd bolt was hidden behind the wiring, that took me a while to work out...
Now this is where I'm really lacking experience, the belt looks shiny from the outside but the inside has a faint zigzag appearance, it doesn't look cracked anywhere, it just looks a bit like a tweed jacket? I'm not sure if that's OK or not. The car is >115K so it's well over Volvo's new schedule but well under what it used to be, so I dunno
If it’s got that sort of milage on it i would change it to be safe, if the belt looks shiny that is usually a sign on wear, a new belt will have a full/Matt finish to the back of the belt. And yes the engine is the exact same as in the Peugeot, Citroen, ect!
Thank you so much! Does one need to follow a certain procedure to fill the cooling liquid back in, to avoid that the pump runs dry for some time?
Hi mate, no special procedure, just fill up the header tank as you would, run the engine to operating temperature, let it cool down and top
Up as required.
Hello, I have another problem ..........your advice would be much appreciated please. I lifted the engine up on the Oil pan using a jack with a piece of wood spread over the whole pan. Now the engine is misaligned and I cannot get the top engine support back on. The fixture bolted to the engine is too far forward (towards the front of the car) relative to the rubber casing which is bolted to the chassis. I have tried pushing it with all my strength without being able to move it sufficiently.
The rubber in the engine mount underneath the car (where the transmission shaft passes) has completely perished and I have set about dismantling all that whilst I wait for a new tensioner for my cam belt. I wanted to put back the top support as a precaution before removing the bottom support. Do you think that the Oil Pan will support the whole engine ???? With the bottom support removed I believe the engine will move so I can correct the position of the top support.
Many thanks in advance for your help
Excellent video, thank you. Would have appreciated to see where you placed the jack under the car to hold the engine up.
Just block of wood between the engine sump and Jack mate. Just so it’s got decent support.
@@Chris_CDB Thank you
Hi there great informative video, i was wondering one thing like your Dayco kit same as mine ther is no crank pulley bolt so i was just wondering is it really essential to replace with new bolt as some other kits like Gates supply you with one. Im just a little worried after going all this way that re-using original bolt could cause big problems. Thanks for your time.
To be honest, providing it’s tight, I wouldn’t worry!
@@Chris_CDB Thankyou, I sort of thought that but I really needed a second opinion.
My tensioner isn’t working , turn it anti clockwise and it tightens the belt but the piece doesn’t move to align up? Any ideas, tried 2 now
Hi mate, have you made sure that the tensioner slot is engaged on the pin that sticks out (see video at about 14.40…)??
Do u need to pin the pump,on other bids they say definitely. ,great vid,on it tomorrow 140k so better do it before I sell it,cheers
the best vid i have seen, so I'm ready to my 308 , just one thing if it was to snap, is it bent valves on this model ???
Thank you, and on this model it doesn’t usually bend the valves, it usually breaks the rockers.
@@Chris_CDB yes its 308 hdi fap 1.6 110 hp 2008 thxs fred
18:06 I'm pretty sure that pins should be removed before tensioning. Am I right?
No mate, pins need to be locked in position while you tension otherwise the timing will move!
Hi, would appreciate your advice please. I bought a Dayco kit online. Strangely the belt tensioner plastic bag was open. The others in the box were sealed. Is it possible to damage the tensioner before it is installed by removing the pin ? When I came to line up the hole with the new belt on, I had to turn the allen key clockwise to line it up. However the arrow stated to turn it anticlockwise. I am concerned this could really cause a problem. What do you think , please
The pin that’s in it is there to aid fitting of the belt, if you can compress the tensioner back to allow you to slot a drill bit into it or something like that then it will aid fitting, however… you say you already have it on, you just need to turn it in the correct direction to tension it, as it will self right as you do.
@@Chris_CDB Thank you for your reply. I am anxious that turning the Allen key clockwise, instead of anticlockwise (as the arrow on the tensioner states) that I will not end up with the correct tension.
I tried putting the old tensioner back on just to test if moving the Allen key anticlockwise would bring the little hole back to the middle of the slot……….and to my surprise it didn’t. My conclusion is that once the pin has been pulled, you cannot use them again ?? (Note: It was never my intention to use the old tensioner, I just wanted to see if the Allen key mechanism still worked, and it didn’t.)
Hiya great video mate , looking for your wisdom here .. had cam belt and pump changed about 10k miles ago , now engine light coming on saying p0016 cam/ crank correlation , van drives fine , but hard to turn over occasionally ( not hard after being driven a few miles ) now coolant leaks a tiny bit randomly when parked up , any ideas ? Thanks
Hi there, to be honest it sounds like the belt timing is out by half a tooth or so, I would imagine that maybe the proper tools were not used to make sure the crank/cam didn’t move, with the hard to start occasionally situation I would definitely be looking at timing 1st. Water leak could be the waterpump is not sealed properly or I have seen it before where the garage hasn’t changed it and where it’s been disturbed it starts to leak. Would be having that timing cover off and looking to see what’s going on. But as I say I would 99% say it’s out of time by a little.
Water pump seized causing belt to jump
need to strip mine on my berlingo van , somethings making a whurring noise on idle coming from behind cam cover its not aux belt. Cambelt was changed 2 years ago. Don't you have to lock the flywheel to?
You don’t “lock” the crank, you put the pin In as shown in this video mate, you need to use the locking/locating pins. I would imagine it will be the waterpump bearing or the belt has been over tightened.
@CDB MECHANICS thanks mate
🔝👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
My 5008 1.6HDi 2016, when is a due to replace the timing belt please?
Probably about now based on years, or about 80k (ish), it says they are “good” for 120k but I rarely see them make it that far before they strip the teeth.
Excellent video. Does this apply to the Suzuki 1.6 DDiS engine ? There is very little information about belt changes on these engines but the Dayco kit lists a lot of fitments including Volvo Mazda Mini and Fiat.
Hi, if you have an engine code I can check what the procedure is for this!
@@Chris_CDB I believe its a D16AA, in a 2014 SX4 S-Cross
@@daveslack5351 engine looks completely different mate, completely different setup by the looks of it.
@@Chris_CDB OK, thanks for looking. My search continues . . . .
@@daveslack5351 what year is the vehicle?
If the tensioner is locked with the supplied pin why can't u just tighten it and then pull the pin?
If you tighten the bolt before you pull the pin the tensioner will not move against the belt…
The tensioner pin is only locked to a position that allows the belt to be fitted comfortably, then when you release the pin it holds the belt in place and then tighten the bolt to hold it in the tensioned position.
Can you help maybe. My waterpump seized and belt teeth stripped. Tappets broke so replaced all tapets/hyd lifters & cam, New waterpump, belt, pulley, tensioner. Also had a camera in bores, no piston or valve damage. Engine turns over on key but wont fire. No OBD faults showing on my meter. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
Have you checked the basics, the engine is in time (not 180 degrees out on the bottom end), checked you have crank sensor signal.. (engine rotation), checked you have fuel pressure in the rail?.
Pin in cam pulley into head casting, pin in crank pulley at 12 o clock position (piston tdc) Is it possible to get injector pump position 180 deg out.
Injector pump will not matter as it’s making pressure it’s not “timed” as such, however there is a timing mark for it, but it would have no bearing on it starting and running. You have fuel pressure?, you have engine rotation (from crank sensor signal)
Chris, will check fuel pressure, I've had injectors/pipes off also pipes off fuel filter housing.iam working outside in this lovely British weather so it's slow progress. Thanks for yr advise.
@@gregorydobson4307 it sounds likely you have air in the system, once the system is bled you should be good to go.
Great video. What coolant should be used for this engine please when refilling. Thank you.
To be honest pink/red or the orange stuff is usual!
@@Chris_CDB great thanks. Does it not matter about this OAT stuff which I’ve seen mentioned a few times regarding the DV6
@@michaelfearn83 The OAT coolant is (supposed) to be “lifetime” coolant, red/pink is 5 year protection, however it will last longer than that. It is just personal preference.
@@Chris_CDB many thanks again. Perfect and once again, fantastic video. Doing mine in the next few days.
Another question if you don’t mind. Does the 18mm bottom crack bolt have to be removed with an air gun. I’ve seen that if it’s hard to get off then could do damage to the engine by it turning anti clockwise.
Presume this is method for all newer shape 2014 ford transit connects and they don't have wet belt in oil which were not popular. Is it just the cambelt kit needed and no other hidden belts (excluding auxiliary belt). Ford quoted £ 880 for a 2014 connect as they said it had wet belt do deal with. Do you take on work or recommend in Kent?
Hi mate, if you have the 1.5 or the 1.6 transit connect then it is this belt system, it’s only the 18 tdci engines that had the wet belt system., yes this is the exact same process, a few minor differences but basically the same…. I am based in Kent and yes I take on work.
Class upload 👍
No problem
Belt 141 teeth?
what’s the all-in price to do this job? i’ve just bought a 308 with no history and 127kmiles. paid £1400 for the car which seems a great price
new viewer, so subscribed!
Usually it is around the 3-400 mark for this
Job, however it really does depend on the garage you go to, (what there hourly rate is ect), and at the moment with prices all rising the parts will probably Cost more that they previously have, so it’s a bit difficult to gauge!
@@Chris_CDB thanks. I’ll reply when I get the bill! It’s a trusted local trader I use so I know they will be fair with me.
I’ve also been told I need new lower wishbone on front. Bushes are worn out. Tyre placed quoted £350 for both sides at front. They said not cost effective to press in new bushes! Is that correct advice? I just had new shoes fitted on the front corners and they were £82 each for good quality brand and A efficiency rating
Trzeba Było zlać płyn chłodzący przez chłodnice. Nigdy przez pompę.
La telecamera balla troppo tienila piu' ferma