These little heaters work in the old VW bugs. They fit great in the front truck. Exhaust goes through front trunk floor and you can tap the heat duct right into the bugs dash vents. Best heat a old school VW bug ever had.
Eberspacher made a special for VWs that was designed for petrol/gasoline. Modern Eberspachers are primarily used on diesel in trucks or on (untaxed) kerosene for off grid purposes.
Doesn't matter what you do , used motor oil has a lot of contaminants in it from a metal, aluminum, copper and other fine particles which will not burn in the chamber. I eve tried Waste vegetable oil mix with gas and diesel , same problem after 5 gallons , basically vegetable oil has glycerin in it which will not burn, to avoid all this you would have to make biofuel from used vegetable oil to remove the glycerin and then you have clean burning fuel. By the Way.. cleaning used motor oil will not remove particles/contaminants you will need what's called a centrifuge that cleans the oil down to one/zero micron.
I have the exact same heater (with the same controller that can't control fuel ratio) and have been trying for over a month to come up with some waste oil mix that will work, running the heater 24/7 and still haven't come up with anything that works great.... I've been making videos about my testing and have gotten some interesting suggestions, but so far nothing that works well. I just ordered a controller that can change the fan speed and fuel independently and will be doing some testing with it as soon as it comes in. Between now and then I have modified my burn chamber to try to get more air in, and I am about 4 hours into testing that set up... Not expecting great results. So many people claim that they do this without issue, but I have seen many others that have the exact same problem... within a day, the chamber is full of crap. Let the testing continue.
I’m a few days into this Diesel heater game and was into the black diesel with my old Cummins trucks years ago. I have a bunch of synthetic 15w40 clean oil that I can’t use in a vehicle so I’m trying my expermential mixes. The first batch I went 25% rug with75% oil. I lt ran good but my temps were down to 198-200 from 208-212°C. It had a bit of a hard start the one day but my battery voltage was not 100%. I decided 25% was not enough because unlike when I ran 80/20 in my Cummins diesel there is nothing heating the fuel here. So next batch I went 60/40 but my numbers were a bit low however my battery voltage may have played a roll there. Then I watched a pile of videos and could see that the story was the same way across the board that everybody was getting carbon buildup. So I ran it on diesel for a few days. Everything was good. It started great. The temperatures were back up to where they were before but then I had another idea so I tried a new homebrew again tonight and I’ll let you know how it worked out but it isn’t gasoline that I’m using this time.
Great job, thanks Storm. It seems very difficult to use any waste oil ratio without coking the burner up, especially with the newer board. You can get the red numbers motherboard & lcd combo though for 35 bucks on Amazon or 25 bucks from AliEx, which might help a bit. Thanks.
I have been watching a Bloke called David McLuckie on CZcams also. He is worth a look into. He has been and still is trying different combinations and set ups with them. I know by the name on his overhauls he is an heating Engineer. He will pretty much answere all our questions.
The issue really is that fuel oils are distillates and have very low solids content BUT Lube oils have additives which alter the viscosity/temperature properties and lots of other additives and all of these produce solids in their ashes. The issue with waste oil from workshops is that often it gets water in the oil by accident or design and water doesn't burn.
Is it synthetic waste motor oil? I heard real waste oil heaters aren’t suppose to use synthetic oils. I forget the reasons why. Great channel 👍👍 I just subscribed.
I'm waiting for my heater to be delivered so I've been looking at all the vid on running these heaters on oil, you asked for info on controllers look up "afterburner" mr jones in aus, my background is gas heating engineering so I've a few experiments I intend trying. first thing is to try is force draught on the inlet maybe even increase temp of inlet air etc ...
Personally, I think people are getting confused when they say the oil needs to be preheated. Pre-heating was a thing running older gen diesel motors (pre common rail) on veg oil, but this was mainly so the hp pump could cope. I don't believe this is relevant on these heaters. I have found, a 3 point valve to switch between blends and pure diesel at start and stop helped for a while, but have now decided it only slowed down the inevitable sooting up as you have shown. Also worth mentioning that underneath the burner jets is another ring of mesh that also needs cleaning, or the thing never really burns right for long after a clean out and it's like a viscous circle, before you know it it will have sooted up even running on diesel. Sticking a fierce flame from a blowtorch down the burner will burn some.of the gunge off the mesh ring, I have also seen some people leave the burner in soak in oven cleaner for a while. I am starting to think I may have to use diesel only. Like yours, I can't tweak the pump frequency or fan speed, maybe this is the issue and I only need to lean out the burn 🤔
i am running 50/50 Waste oil(Unfiltered) and diesel mix runs good didnt cleaned it yet but i can see alot of carbon on exhaust so i think it will be very nasty inside starts are little bit tricky sometimes i just have to restart it 3 times other time it starts right up, i am sure preheating the oil would help
In the morning when we start the heater, we leave it on it's highest setting for 30-60 minutes before running any lower, seems to help and has been a long time suggestion to do. Helps clean out the gunk to some sort of degree. Have you tried this at any point?
Im just throwing this out there... but you should try having a heater element heating the oil to over 200f and make a heater manifold from the exhaust side to heat the intake air aswell... should cut down on autoignition delay which would probably reduce carbon deposit as well as unburned fuel.... temps should be just before vapor point
It's not the viscosity of the oil that's the problem, it's the ash content of wmo, which was never designed to burn cleanly like diesel and also the contamination the wmo contains. The oil is effectively pre heated as it reaches the first gauze.
@@yodab.at1746 yes but im not referring to viscosity as means of thinning it down but to get it closer to a vapor point which will change timing of ignition delay... as ive seen in other vids the ash is just pure carbon and unburned residue.... not even really ash as the chamber is not hot enough as well as completing the combustion process due to delay of ignition as well time of burn... just saying it could be that since oil burns at much slower rate than that of pure diesel... i could be wrong... but im just reading online vapor points and autoignition temps as well as burn time... anything is a possibility... even the fact that the pump and injector cc pulses are calculated for strictly diesel... id say leaning it out with less oil flow with the given combustion intake air flow would help considering that oil burns higher btus/lb than that of diesel...
I saw one guy said he has been running for over 5 years with no cleaning, I believe he felt the key was always starting up on h5, running at h2 but always returning to h5 to burn off anything before shutting down.
All fuel oils have minerals dissolved in it. The ash from these minerals is what is building up on the burner, it happens when the temperature of the oil burning is not high enough. Waiting to see if heating the oil will help. On the high setting you use approx 200ml per hour, on low setting you can get up to 7hours on alpine mode.
Thanks Ken , I can’t wait either but my coil material is delayed. I may just run out get copper brake line material and get this going. I am waiting for 3 way valve and couple items on Monday then I can make this happen. The valve and a second tank to start and stop unit on pure diesel .
@@cliffelmore5834 no doubt its dirty in there. Still running no issues. Probably around 3/4months. Tank just gets topped up. Like i say maybe ive been lucky with it?
Have you tried running wmo with altitude mode turned on? It should give more oxygen vs oil and possibly burn hotter. I'm gonna try when mine arrives but was curious if you tried. Thx
Try looking up XBox Power supply Hacks on CZcams, you will see it makes the perfect high quality & high amperage 12V power supply. I got 2 of them for free at the local recycling Depot. you can then plug the Heater into the wall socket.
What Storm said is a good idea, try to comprare the settings from the hotter heat vs the colder one and if the same, just do small tinkering till you get the desired level.
Synthetic yes but most oils today are semi or full . I like the old stuff with trees and dinosaurs and stuff but it’s getting rare. Yes synthetic have more chems but they have a flash point. Issue is ash need ash free
There is no place to enter those codes, 1688 or 9009. I have the same panel as him. I have no control over the pump speed at all and the fan speed beyond 1-6 on the screen
@@thesurvivalist. you may need to press 2 buttons at once to get the four dashes to enter to the code . Could be menu + down button menu + up or ok+up or ok+ down. I can't remember which which off hand.
Not safe? They are specifically designed as ‘parking heaters for automobiles. Installed properly (likely not like yours), they are safe. Many thousands of lorry/truck drivers rely on them.
I was thinking of a glass type fish tank heater in the waste oil tank to pre heat it. Start and stop on clean fuel I think will help burn out the carbon . was thinking of stopping with a half hour of clean diesel fuel . thanks to the commenters and you as well . we all need to beat the high cost of heating .
You have to get the oil to 160 + degrees to thin it enough. Then when it cools back down, the fat starts to float around and clog everything up. Learned that from trying to make my own fuel for an 1984 300TD Absorb the cost to do it right and just wear coats.
@@robertkeller9828 160 degrees? Is that Celsius (the old Centigrade), Fahrenheit or perhaps one of the😅 older temperature scales? The modern SI unit is Kelvin (K, with no degrees) - that has the same size unit as Celsius, so only need to add 273 to the K value. 😊
Food for thought! I wonder if adding a little diesel injector cleaner in the fuel mix might slow down the oil build up or clean the system? This video is 8 Years old but Interesting build: czcams.com/video/BhrxwIYE5ag/video.html
Buy off-road diesel and stop risking your lives and ruining these cheapo heaters in the process. Or get back on grid and keep these for backup/emergency heating only. BTW, chopping wood is healthy.
I accidentally just bought the 5kw version because they both look identical. I was not aware that there was more than one option. What's the difference? More heat? Should I be concerned that I got the 5kw instead of the 8kw?
Unfortunately, they are exactly identical the killer want is not an 8 kW it’s basically a 5 kW so I would purchase the 5 kW because if you go look at the Australian, he test both units and they are five both 5 kW units
This great ! Keep it up ! More VIDEOS !
You are doing a great job ! Helping others !
These little heaters work in the old VW bugs. They fit great in the front truck. Exhaust goes through front trunk floor and you can tap the heat duct right into the bugs dash vents. Best heat a old school VW bug ever had.
Did that on my bug what I drove all year the remote was sweet to have too !!
Eberspacher made a special for VWs that was designed for petrol/gasoline. Modern Eberspachers are primarily used on diesel in trucks or on (untaxed) kerosene for off grid purposes.
Doesn't matter what you do , used motor oil has a lot of contaminants in it from a metal, aluminum, copper and other fine particles which will not burn in the chamber. I eve tried Waste vegetable oil mix with gas and diesel , same problem after 5 gallons , basically vegetable oil has glycerin in it which will not burn, to avoid all this you would have to make biofuel from used vegetable oil to remove the glycerin and then you have clean burning fuel.
By the Way.. cleaning used motor oil will not remove particles/contaminants you will need what's called a centrifuge that cleans the oil down to one/zero micron.
I have the exact same heater (with the same controller that can't control fuel ratio) and have been trying for over a month to come up with some waste oil mix that will work, running the heater 24/7 and still haven't come up with anything that works great.... I've been making videos about my testing and have gotten some interesting suggestions, but so far nothing that works well.
I just ordered a controller that can change the fan speed and fuel independently and will be doing some testing with it as soon as it comes in. Between now and then I have modified my burn chamber to try to get more air in, and I am about 4 hours into testing that set up... Not expecting great results. So many people claim that they do this without issue, but I have seen many others that have the exact same problem... within a day, the chamber is full of crap.
Let the testing continue.
I’m a few days into this Diesel heater game and was into the black diesel with my old Cummins trucks years ago.
I have a bunch of synthetic 15w40 clean oil that I can’t use in a vehicle so I’m trying my expermential mixes.
The first batch I went 25% rug with75% oil. I lt ran good but my temps were down to 198-200 from 208-212°C.
It had a bit of a hard start the one day but my battery voltage was not 100%.
I decided 25% was not enough because unlike when I ran 80/20 in my Cummins diesel there is nothing heating the fuel here.
So next batch I went 60/40 but my numbers were a bit low however my battery voltage may have played a roll there.
Then I watched a pile of videos and could see that the story was the same way across the board that everybody was getting carbon buildup.
So I ran it on diesel for a few days. Everything was good. It started great. The temperatures were back up to where they were before but then I had another idea so I tried a new homebrew again tonight and I’ll let you know how it worked out but it isn’t gasoline that I’m using this time.
Great job, thanks Storm. It seems very difficult to use any waste oil ratio without coking the burner up, especially with the newer board. You can get the red numbers motherboard & lcd combo though for 35 bucks on Amazon or 25 bucks from AliEx, which might help a bit. Thanks.
Thanks for the update!
I have been watching a Bloke called David McLuckie on CZcams also. He is worth a look into. He has been and still is trying different combinations and set ups with them. I know by the name on his overhauls he is an heating Engineer. He will pretty much answere all our questions.
Eddison never thought finding something that didn’t work was a fail.
The issue really is that fuel oils are distillates and have very low solids content BUT Lube oils have additives which alter the viscosity/temperature properties and lots of other additives and all of these produce solids in their ashes. The issue with waste oil from workshops is that often it gets water in the oil by accident or design and water doesn't burn.
Is it synthetic waste motor oil? I heard real waste oil heaters aren’t suppose to use synthetic oils. I forget the reasons why. Great channel 👍👍 I just subscribed.
I'm waiting for my heater to be delivered so I've been looking at all the vid on running these heaters on oil, you asked for info on controllers look up "afterburner" mr jones in aus, my background is gas heating engineering so I've a few experiments I intend trying. first thing is to try is force draught on the inlet maybe even increase temp of inlet air etc ...
Personally, I think people are getting confused when they say the oil needs to be preheated. Pre-heating was a thing running older gen diesel motors (pre common rail) on veg oil, but this was mainly so the hp pump could cope. I don't believe this is relevant on these heaters. I have found, a 3 point valve to switch between blends and pure diesel at start and stop helped for a while, but have now decided it only slowed down the inevitable sooting up as you have shown. Also worth mentioning that underneath the burner jets is another ring of mesh that also needs cleaning, or the thing never really burns right for long after a clean out and it's like a viscous circle, before you know it it will have sooted up even running on diesel. Sticking a fierce flame from a blowtorch down the burner will burn some.of the gunge off the mesh ring, I have also seen some people leave the burner in soak in oven cleaner for a while. I am starting to think I may have to use diesel only. Like yours, I can't tweak the pump frequency or fan speed, maybe this is the issue and I only need to lean out the burn 🤔
i am running 50/50 Waste oil(Unfiltered) and diesel mix
runs good didnt cleaned it yet but i can see alot of carbon on exhaust so i think it will be very nasty inside
starts are little bit tricky sometimes i just have to restart it 3 times other time it starts right up, i am sure preheating the oil would help
In the morning when we start the heater, we leave it on it's highest setting for 30-60 minutes before running any lower, seems to help and has been a long time suggestion to do. Helps clean out the gunk to some sort of degree. Have you tried this at any point?
Preheated oil will burn better and any way to heat it up is good ideal
Waste oil is good for stuff like this but it still has to be filtrated good first to burn good my opinion
I understand the project, but the real question is it cheaper than paying the government runed/owned utilities?
Absolutely
Im just throwing this out there... but you should try having a heater element heating the oil to over 200f and make a heater manifold from the exhaust side to heat the intake air aswell... should cut down on autoignition delay which would probably reduce carbon deposit as well as unburned fuel.... temps should be just before vapor point
It's not the viscosity of the oil that's the problem, it's the ash content of wmo, which was never designed to burn cleanly like diesel and also the contamination the wmo contains. The oil is effectively pre heated as it reaches the first gauze.
@@yodab.at1746 yes but im not referring to viscosity as means of thinning it down but to get it closer to a vapor point which will change timing of ignition delay... as ive seen in other vids the ash is just pure carbon and unburned residue.... not even really ash as the chamber is not hot enough as well as completing the combustion process due to delay of ignition as well time of burn... just saying it could be that since oil burns at much slower rate than that of pure diesel... i could be wrong... but im just reading online vapor points and autoignition temps as well as burn time... anything is a possibility... even the fact that the pump and injector cc pulses are calculated for strictly diesel... id say leaning it out with less oil flow with the given combustion intake air flow would help considering that oil burns higher btus/lb than that of diesel...
I saw one guy said he has been running for over 5 years with no cleaning, I believe he felt the key was always starting up on h5, running at h2 but always returning to h5 to burn off anything before shutting down.
I agree
Apparently that is the consensus start high switch to low, switch to high to burn off then let it go through the shutdown sequence.
All fuel oils have minerals dissolved in it. The ash from these minerals is what is building up on the burner, it happens when the temperature of the oil burning is not high enough. Waiting to see if heating the oil will help.
On the high setting you use approx 200ml per hour, on low setting you can get up to 7hours on alpine mode.
Thanks Ken , I can’t wait either but my coil material is delayed. I may just run out get copper brake line material and get this going. I am waiting for 3 way valve and couple items on Monday then I can make this happen. The valve and a second tank to start and stop unit on pure diesel .
How do you clean your waist oil or do you just dump it in with the diesel and everything else?
You can filter small batches with paint filters 125 micron. After that you could refine it further with a 5 or 10 micron water filter.
Maybe im lucky? I run on 50/50 waste oil to diesel. Not chanced the settings, as is out the box and runs great
How many hours do you have on the unit? Your unit is probably dirtier than you think.
@@cliffelmore5834 no doubt its dirty in there. Still running no issues. Probably around 3/4months. Tank just gets topped up. Like i say maybe ive been lucky with it?
Have you tried running wmo with altitude mode turned on? It should give more oxygen vs oil and possibly burn hotter. I'm gonna try when mine arrives but was curious if you tried. Thx
Yes I have tried that and it helps
@@Storman77 Thx !
My wife just told me the veggie oil in the fridge smells bad , ok I’ll use it , lol . Any plans too try vegetable oil .
No I don’t, but I know you need to mix it with gas and diesel . Also warm it up
Try this video czcams.com/video/qQDKRpyynS8/video.html
Try looking up XBox Power supply Hacks on CZcams, you will see it makes the perfect high quality & high amperage 12V power supply. I got 2 of them for free at the local recycling Depot. you can then plug the Heater into the wall socket.
Have you tried kerosene instead of diesel?
Would burn fine but 100% is arsh on pump . Kerosene has less lubricant. As I mentioned more money in these parts
I have Alpine mode I just can’t find how to activate it? Button sequence?
Press and hold the setting button and OK at the same time and hold for a few seconds till it switches.
I've got 2 heaters one is warmer than other any suggestions
If you have that secret menu option adjust you fan speed min and max till you get a proper heat
What Storm said is a good idea, try to comprare the settings from the hotter heat vs the colder one and if the same, just do small tinkering till you get the desired level.
Just wondering your waste oil. Is it synthetic or conventional. ?
Synthetic yes but most oils today are semi or full . I like the old stuff with trees and dinosaurs and stuff but it’s getting rare. Yes synthetic have more chems but they have a flash point. Issue is ash need ash free
@@Storman77 . I was also told that synthetic oil Will also crystallize , not sure if how that works?
try code 9009 to enter factory menu.
There is no place to enter those codes, 1688 or 9009. I have the same panel as him.
I have no control over the pump speed at all and the fan speed beyond 1-6 on the screen
@@thesurvivalist. you may need to press 2 buttons at once to get the four dashes to enter to the code . Could be menu + down button menu + up or ok+up or ok+ down. I can't remember which which off hand.
I could not sleep with theses types of heater, ok if I’m in shop but not safe if a sleeping
Surprisingly enough it has allot of safety built in .
Not safe? They are specifically designed as ‘parking heaters for automobiles. Installed properly (likely not like yours), they are safe. Many thousands of lorry/truck drivers rely on them.
Perhaps the reason that waste oil doesn't work well is because it isn't made to be used with waste oil
You should be awarded an honorary doctorate. The deepness with which your mind thinks is truly unmatched.
I was thinking of a glass type fish tank heater in the waste oil tank to pre heat it. Start and stop on clean fuel I think will help burn out the carbon . was thinking of stopping with a half hour of clean diesel fuel . thanks to the commenters and you as well . we all need to beat the high cost of heating .
Anywhere you want to heat up the oil should work. I’m going to try the coil and start and stop on fresh diesel.
You have to get the oil to 160 + degrees to thin it enough. Then when it cools back down, the fat starts to float around and clog everything up.
Learned that from trying to make my own fuel for an 1984 300TD
Absorb the cost to do it right and just wear coats.
@@robertkeller9828 160 degrees? Is that Celsius (the old Centigrade), Fahrenheit or perhaps one of the😅 older temperature scales? The modern SI unit is Kelvin (K, with no degrees) - that has the same size unit as Celsius, so only need to add 273 to the K value. 😊
Food for thought! I wonder if adding a little diesel injector cleaner in the fuel mix might slow down the oil build up or clean the system?
This video is 8 Years old but Interesting build:
czcams.com/video/BhrxwIYE5ag/video.html
password is 4682
another one i've seen is 9009
The code isn’t the problem. They have changed the firmware on some versions that no longer offer a pin code through the UI (that we know of).
Buy off-road diesel and stop risking your lives and ruining these cheapo heaters in the process. Or get back on grid and keep these for backup/emergency heating only.
BTW, chopping wood is healthy.
Lol I chop piles of wood and yes for sure healthier
Hello,
Our company would like to invite you to try our products for free, how can we get in touch with you?
I accidentally just bought the 5kw version because they both look identical. I was not aware that there was more than one option.
What's the difference? More heat? Should I be concerned that I got the 5kw instead of the 8kw?
Unfortunately, they are exactly identical the killer want is not an 8 kW it’s basically a 5 kW so I would purchase the 5 kW because if you go look at the Australian, he test both units and they are five both 5 kW units
@@Storman77 thanks