Use THIS For 10x SHARPER Photos That Look MORE 3D!
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2024
- Discover the 5 SECRETS for SHARP Portrait Photos that "POP" (& look more 3D!)
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Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:58 SECRET No.1 - Use Proper Lighting
3:00 SECRET No.2 - Aperture "Sweet" Spot
4:18 SECRET No. 3 - Ideal Exposure
5:04 ARTLIST SPONSOR
6:53 SECRET No. 4 - Exposure Balance
8:54 SECRET No. 5 - Color Contrast
12:50 - BONUS SECRET No. 6 - Negative Fill
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Completely agree, I have never been one of those portrait photographers that shoots everything wide open, if you stop down a bit you still get excellent background separation together with even sharper subject and with most of the face in focus which is another important point why you need to have full control of your depth of field.
I've watched so many "how to take sharper photos" videos, but yours introduced concepts that the other videos never mentioned. Awesome tips, Justin! (Love the use of the horse as negative fill. 😄)
My pleasure Carl! So glad to hear that, thanks for watching all the way through + sharing such a nice comment 🙏
I'm still struggling with changing backgrounds as stage 2 but basic mode I know a Lil bit
Excellent tutorial! As a portrait photographer intuitively I’ve been doing this a long time, but appreciate seeing your perspective and the tutorial has great structure too!
Awesome, thank you very much! Means a lot to see comments like this, thanks for watching 🙏
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
My pleasure Phiron! Thanks so much for watching & sharing your feedback! It means a lot!! 🙌
I laughed when you sprinkled that dust or whatever it was on the ground as you were introducing the sponsor. Ive seen a lot of other videos where photographers introduce their sponsors with comedic touches, but this was by far the best i've seen so far
Very insightful - as always - thanks a ton Justin!
Big pleasure! Thanks so much for the nice comment ☺️🙌
This video needed to be seen by more people. The internet is so full of BS correct information like this became obscured to many photographers.
Ah man, thank you so much for saying that. I really appreciate it 🙌
Nice tutorial your step-by-step process and photography tips are really helpful, appreciate the raw file it makes it so much easier to follow along. Subscribed👍
Great to hear! Appreciate the nice comment, lots more to come soon! :)
this is gold! and the sponsor piece was too good! thank you!
You're so welcome man! haha Thanks Tony 🙏
To the point, great content! Thank you for that great video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks so much my friend
Awesome tutorial!!
On of my favorite of ALL time!!!
Awesome! Thank you so much Mark!! You are too kind, that means a lot 😊
I think you should start upload more videos and more often like these, I've learned so much from your videos and I want see more!
Thank you! Will do I promise! 🙏
FANTASTIC INFO! Thanks for sharing these tips on sharper pics that look more 3D!
You're very welcome! Thank you so much for the kind words
Actually a primer and a must-see for photographers in portrait photography thanks for the share.
Wow thanks Kaul, that means a lot. Thanks for supporting!
Always putting Great stuff man. ❤
Appreciate it Nathaphat! 🙏
Thank you for your lesson and the thoughts.....
It is a big pleasure thanks for watching my friend!
Great information, with useful tips and tricks! :)
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you for the great video!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching and sharing a nice comment 😊🙌
very helpful, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great video- super helpful 🙏
Glad it was helpful, Andrew! Thanks for watching 🙏
Outstanding work bro keep it up bro your all skill & tricks very helpful for me & any creators thank you so much buddy for this tutorial i loved your all tutorial so god bless you and your family ❤❤ 🙏
Thank you so much 😀
God bless to you and your family Jass 🙏
Muy buen tutorial, vale la pena cada minuto
Gracias por este comentario, me hace muy feliz. Me alegra que el tutorial haya sido útil, Richard!
Excellent video, thank you!
My pleasure thank you for watching 🙏
Thanks!
Welcome! 🙏 😊
killer video, thx.
Thank you very much Louie, appreciate you watching & leaving a comment!
You’re awesome!
You too Alterick! Appreciate it man! 🙌 🙌
Thanks for the very useful tips and tricks, but such a beautiful girl would look amazing also in an 8-bit image, even in a checkered Minecraft environment.
Thank you - yes a beautiful subject will take the best practices shared in this video to the next level, but BELIEVE ME without using these best practices it is VERY easy to create an unflattering photo (that doesn't look good). There is more to the lighting, composition, etc. than people realize!
Lisbon, Portugal. BRAVO.
Thank you Carlos! 🙏
great ty
You're welcome 🙏
7:22 This photo was perfect as is. Boosting the beautiful shadow side made it look super unnatural and added a weird color cast. If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.
Awesome video!!! I did notice something in this video I don't remember ever seeing before, at 13:57 into the video when the model was with the horse, what is the object sticking off the camera, I thought maybe a mirror or light? Thanks
haha well spotted!! I love that tool - its an extendable lens hood. It works great for shooting Backlighting portraits if you don't want the sun's rays to enter your lens and wash out the colors (basically creates super crisp/high contrast images): www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/892206-REG/Dinkum_3020_Flaredinkum_Compact.html
Remarkable tips for achieving depth and clarity! The transformation to 3D-like photos is impressive. How do you think these techniques would translate to portrait photography? Keen to hear your insights!"
Translate to portrait photography?
Great Video, new sub here, thanks for sharing
Thanks so much Tony, great to have you onboard! Welcome 🙏
nice
Thank you :)
Use zebras to ETTR in high dynamic range scenes.
Can you do me two favours, please.
A full edit of a colour portrait showing the exact workflow you would use, without adding any presets.
2) A full edit of a colour portrait to high contrast black and white again without adding any presets. Just the workflow you would use, time and time again.
Many thanks.
Thank you for reaching out and the comments. I have a full portrait editing tutorial you can access here: www.justinlaurens.com/access
This is more possible if you know where to position light. Lighting is one of the most difficult parts of portrait photography. It needs a lot of practice and skill
You're right but hopefully this inspires and provides direction. 👌
This video just drives home how useless my camera is. I spend my entire life trying to avoid contrast because there's no way it can capture any of it.
Whilst it’s true upgrading your camera with more Dynamic Range (DR) can be helpful to create the cleanest high-contrast shots by no means is it 100% required. Sometimes it just requires stepping out your comfort zone with the high contrast stuff, I know it did for me. And then to practise a lot with Photoshop to get the tones looking right. Keep going with the current camera you have! What do you use btw?
@@justinlaurens Thanks! I'm sure my editing is almost as big a problem as my camera, but the hardware is definitely a weak link. I'm using a Coolpix P950. I think my phone has a bigger sensor.
Haha! I feel you man…if I’m being honest, saving up to upgrade my camera and lens was one of the best things that happened to my Photography. Even just as a motivator to take my work to the next level to match the upgraded hardware!
training for the people who respond to sound - swooosh! and "ahh" music and at 1.5% speed
Loll just a little Artlist sprinkled throughout ✨
I have hated photoshop for a long time, and figured out how to do this effect with other photo editors. What I use now are editors that have AI and can see the face and adjust the light accordingly and make this 3d look in seconds without having to use over-complicated, monthly charge rental theft software like Adobe.
👍
@Google Spokeperson I am not sure what you are wanting me to show you since I cannot post links on youtube. There are a number of different products/software out there, I would suggest you go, do your research and look at some of the products out there and figure it out for yourself, like I did. Come to think of it, Since you seem to be making fun of me and calling me master, why would I tell you anything?
@@IAmR1ch pretty sure this is a big ol WOOOOSH. I believe he legit was saying he is all in and to teach him
@@chrism7067 Ok, I will tell you since you seem interested. First let me say. Justin Laurens is a pro and has many hours in photoshop to do this stuff. He has many hours using his tools and to expect you will get the exact results using different tool an hour after you purchase them is unreasonable.There are a number of products that do this. I will share the 2 I use most. For a photoshop replacement. On1 photo raw. It does all its edits in raw like lightroom. It has many filters like Photoshop (not all of them but all the ones you would use to edit in this video but tools are not a one to one mapping) and they are all AI mask enhanced.. On1 has layers and ability to do stamped layers or combine layers, blending modes and all the raw editing capabilities of lightroom/camera raw filter. In on1 that called develop It also has local adjustments which are not really layers and are independent of layers. In the video, to do color contrast Calibration and the adjustment of the Hue and Saturation on the primary colors page is done in the color adjustment filter. Color grading is done with either the LUT tool and category color grading option, or Split tone filter allows you to adjust colors on opposite sides of the color wheel (or other relationships) The second product runs as a plugin to On1 (or photoshop) or stand alone. It shapes the face, it allows you to use AI to relight the light direction in your existing image. You can light the face from above or below, to one side or the other of your image. it knows the shaded side of you models face and can lighten or darken it. It can add a kicker light to either side or both of your models face to much to name. All with a slider. It has presets, does sharpening and removes blemishes. It can even do some of the basic editing on raw images like On1. It has presets but I find they are heavy handed. Once you editied image is brought back into ON1, you can blend between the two images. PORTRAIT PRO 23 . On1 is $99 on sale or with coupon codes from youtubers $79.... Portrait pro is $89 for studio(you need this to use as plugin) on sale with Model Mayhem or others coupon code.
@Google Spokeperson i got you an answer
Why do people think you can emulate/simulate the so called 3D look in post production aka. with editing? With editing you can only get a SIMILAR effect, not the real thing.
It's 2023, I thought it was common knowledge by now that this so called 3D effect solely depends on the lens. That's why Schneider Kreuznach, Hasselblad, Zeiss and Leica lenses got praised for over a century now, for the amazing look their lenses give off. If the lens didn't physically capture this detail, then you can't change or edit it, because it's not there to begin with. You can't change or modify something that isn't there. That's like saying you can add more horsepower to your Lamborghini by adding another spoiler - except you don't even have a Lamborghini to begin with.
I’m sorry but that’s incorrect. 3D effect is created by a number of different contributing factors. Primarily the use of light and shadow
@@justinlaurens Incorrect? I didn't know physics can be incorrect. It's basic physics of light passing through a camera lens. Nothing to do with light or shadows in image editing software and everything to do with physical properties of glass elements in a lens aka. their design. What you created by playing in IES, is a LOOK that LOOKS similar, not the same, SIMILAR to the real thing. Again, looks SIMILAR, does NOT look the SAME.
And yes there are a number of different contributing factors, none of which can be changed aka added or subtracted in post;
1. Light refraction, diffraction and reflection as it passes through a lens. The better a lens controls these three, the more precisely it sends light through, the more information will reach the cameras sensor. Can't change that in post, only the glass in a camera lens can control that.
2. Soft tonal transitions and soft saturation. Can't change that in post, only the glass in a camera lens can control that.
3. Real life like depth perception due to better contrast preservation as light passes through glass elements and with that better preservation of detail in shadows and ''contrasty'' bright color tones, which in return gives the life like perception of depth in an image. Can't change that in post, you can't add more detail in contrast than the camera captures, only the glass in a camera lens can control that.
There's a few more but they don't impact the so called 3D look as much as the aforementioned trio.
Schneider Kreuznach, Zeiss, Voigtlander and Hasselblad all have the same glass element designs and all of their lenses deal with light amazingly and create beautiful 3D images.
@@nogerboher5266 Yes, you are incorrect. I have seen many photographers do side by side comparisons with different lenses and no current lens exclusively creates the "3d" effect. What makes for better "3d" effect before processing is a sharp lens, does not matter who makes it. Perhaps Schneider Kreuznach, Hasselblad, Zeiss and Leica had an advantage in sharpness and microcontrast in the long distant past but not anything in the last 5 -10 year depending on the lens. I have seen people good with photoshop create "3d" images at F1.2/1.4 and there is almost no microcontrast or sharpness in the image. What Justin is talking about is shadows cast on the subjects face to create 3d. If you have ever taken an art or painting class, giving depth or making object "3d" is done with shadows.. lightness and darkness, there is no microcontrast or sharpness in an oil painting. Your "so called physics" cannot overcome a a good painter with a paint brush. LOL
@@IAmR1ch On top of lacking basic knowledge of light physics, your comment was also filled with so much incorrect information and nonsense that I'm not even going to humor you with any further replies.
''Micro contrast?" That's not a real thing - your micro-contrast is just smoothness of tonal transitions, saturation and contrast.
And paintings?! Seriously?! Paintings?! Are you being serious?! You are comparing paintings to glass, light particles and physics?! Really?! Look outside through your window at 1PM and tell me what do you see. Window glass is not distorted, bent, mineralized or coated and has close to no impact on light particles that pass through it. As such, it passes anywhere from 96% to 98% of light, depending on the purity and clearness of the glass. Normal, clear glass elements found in camera lenses, pass only from 71% to 89% of light - and that's BEFORE any manufacturing process has taken place - after manufacturing, after coatings, after aspheric elements are added, after apochromatic elements (in better quality lenses) are added... After all that, the light gets distorted, thrown around, filtered and by the time it reaches the end, the final element of a lens and is ready to reach the cameras sensor, it passes 20-35% less light aka. information, depending on manufacturing quality and preciseness of the lens, than a clear glass window. That's why film era lenses all have that so called 3D effect, especially when adapted onto modern day cameras, because they have fewer glass elements and they don't obliterate light as it passes through them.
Anyway, for something like that, for retaining information, additional corrections need to be made to make up for the lost information and that equals to another step in the manufacturing process - and THAT - you guessed it, that costs A LOT of money - which only some manufacturers are willing to make a cut from their potential profit in order to correct their lenses and make a better product. Most of such manufacturers are all the big names in the photography world; names such as Shcneider Kreuznach, names like Hasselblad, names like Voigtlander, names like Zeiss, Leica, Zhong Yi, Nikon and even the likes of Fujifilm or Sony for some of their better class lenses... You get the point...
Now don't expect another reply from me. You have too much to learn about this to be willingly picking debates about it with people online.
@@nogerboher5266 If micro-contrast is not a real thing why does Zeiss use this terminology on its website in an article called Micro Contrast and ZEISS Pop by Lloyd Chambers. It is because you don't know what you are talking about.. look it up. Paintings? Yes, look it up, as I said go to an art class. You clearly don't know what you are talking about. The 3d that Justin was talking about was clearly not about a lens brand but how to make your image in photoshop look more "3d" You didn't even know what he was talking about, perhaps something lost in translation for non English speaker LOL Your "science" and "physics" don't apply to the real world in this discussion which you clearly don't understand. Yes painters have been making paintings look images long before Zeiss or any of the brand you mentioned were ripping off people with over priced lenses. Don't expect a response because you clearly don't understand what you are talking about.
Its not sharp that makes picture look 3D but light as eyes see.
This video shows you how to use Directional Light to create sharper AND more 3D images (both at the same time).
I don't understand why podcasters feel a need to make the microphone such a big part of their visual (or, at all). I especially find it ironic for podcasters that deal with the visual arts to do so.
You have a big honkin microphone... Why are we seeing it? I do like your videos tho.
These aren't secrets.
That’s secret #7
Sharpness is NOT THE SAME as 3D Pop, you're saying that over and over again!
Also low aperture is not the same as 3D Pop.
3D pop comes from micro contrast, aka Inter Tonal Detail, from low element count lenses. Most fully corrected high element count lenses do have far lower to none micro contrast compared to low element count lenses.
You are confusing one thing with the other!
10x sharper?
Sharper gives 3D pop?
Aperture defines 3D?
When a lens doesn’t transmit this micro contrasts, this can’t be added afterwards.
Regular contrast can be added afterwards!
Low element count lenses are giving good micro contrast, not ultra modern lenses.
Ultra sharp, there is no model that wants to see that because every pore will be seen.
In general a lot nonsense is said in this video.
😂
Is that the only answer you can give?
I know enough.
Micro contrast is actually intertonal detail.
You're the best dude !!
Thanks so much bro! 🙌
Excellent video, thank you!
Big pleasure, thank you so much for the nice comment, it really means a lot!
@@justinlaurens was wondering if you have a degree or some other schooling in photography since this video shows great knowledge, especially with light.
Ah thank you Terry. All self taught and driven by an unquenchable thirst to master this amazing craft! What about yourself? What’s your background with Photography?
@@justinlaurens that's amazing I would have guessed a College degree. I started photography when I was 15. In college, I minored in photography. The first house I built included color in a black-and-white darkroom unfortunately in 1988 I was in a serious accident resulting in a traumatic brain injury among others. My photography education was wiped along with my darkroom skills. Twenty years later I bought my first digital camera. I learned by reading and watching CZcams. I was able to become a staff photographer for a modeling magazine, I've since it retired from that position. I now shoot real estate, landscape and wildlife.