Great helpful video.This video helped me call the maintenance guys every year instead of every 6 months. I do once in 6 months and every 1 year mark I call the company.
This was an awesome instructional video, with clear steps, terminology, and background information. Thanks. Will you be doing a video to replace the 2 horizontal filters? Thanks again.
Very helpful; thank you! I have 2 of these systems at 2 different houses installed by different plumbers, and neither one has shut-off valves on the tubing--neither at the tank or on the intake tube. I turned off the water at 2 valves that are 'typical' (to me) plumbing valves (roundish oval shaped, chrome)--one that turns off the water to the kitchen sink and one at another PVC junction at the bottom of the cabinet, which evidently is an intake to the RO system. I had to turn both valves about 8 turns for them to go all the way off. The little 90 degree turn valves shown in your video are nice; I'm not sure why my systems don't have them. I removed both sumps and lubed the O-rings on each one because the post-filter sump had a slow drip from the top, where the O-ring is. I figured since I had it all shut down I might as well lube them both, even though the pre-filter sump was not dripping. I didn't replace the filters because this system was just installed a couple of months ago. Put it all back together and so far it's dry. I'm not normally brave enough to tackle plumbing projects, but now I have the confidence to change the filters on the RO system at my other house--thanks again!
Great video, time and money saver for sure. Could you please give some info on the top two filters. Also if you could provide some info where to find/buy the whole replacement set I would appreciate it. I've got the same set-up at home and little confused how to replace the top two since new models have different set-up and look. Thank you in advance
That's a lot of tubes! Make sure you get an under sink cabinet mat from Xtreme Mats and a water sensor to prevent any water damage from the inevitable leak at @t.
Excellent presentation for the filter system I have... One question. Do you not change anything for the other horizontally placed thing? You covered the two vertically placed filters and the horizontal one on the top but there is one more which was not covered... I am assuming nothing is needed, but I just wanted to double check with you.
Jay, the larger horizontal housing is the reverse osmosis membrane, I recomend replacing every 3 - 5 years, some manufacterers recommend every 2 years. I will have to make/post a video on replaceing the membrane. I am sure others already have. If you do replace the membrane, replace all other cartridges at the same time. Let the system make new water (about 2 hours), leak check, then open faucet and empty completely until a dribble, repeat process, The third time the system fills you can start using the water, A TDS (total dissolved solids meter) would be helpful in determining/verifying a 90% reduction in TDS from the feed/tap water, to verify you are rinsed/purged/all good.
Your video really helps. But how do I change the top top filter? Mine needs it, it's an old GE system. 1 top and 2 bottoms just like this video. Thanks dude!
Great Video! What about the filter that wasn't mentioned, the one below the polishing filter, what is that one for and when does that need to be changed?
+Jason, The membrane (in the horizontal chamber above the pre-filters). Change every 2 years with source water containing hardness. With a properly functioning water softener 3 - 5 years. When changing the membrane is a great time to run bleach through all the housings empty of filters and membrane for thoroughly clean the system. The most common membrane on most standard systems is the TFC 36 gpd (Thin Film Composite, 36 Gallon per day)
We haven't changed ours in five years and have very hard water. Is is possible they are all seized now - we have the tool, and are killing our wrists trying to get them open. Followed the video to ensure the various water pressure points are off. Help!
As long as you have given depressurization enough time - IE leave feed valve off, leave tank valve off, and drinking water faucet open for several minutes, The extra time to depressurize may be necessary with plugged filters. Someone may have used plumbers dope on the housing threads - hopefully not, (Non-curing O-ring lube on the O-ring only !) You need a much bigger tool for leverage and make sure you really hold the frame or you will rip the mounting hardware right out of whatever it is mounted to. You may even have to remove the unit, lay it on the ground, really hold back on the frame and use the leverage necessary to remove the housings. - Good Luck !
David I have this same system mounted in my basement to make it as easy as possible I mounted it underneath the kitchen then you simply run the water lines up drill a hole through the bottom of cabinet where sink is and run line up to the faucet. Also have a line run directly to our refrigerator icemaker. You can buy spools of line at home Depot or menards. It's simply have to figure out where to drill of course and it's as easy as running the lines.
Do you drain out the water tank before you start? and What did you mean by "purge" at the tail end of your video? Are you referring to draining out all the water from the tank? Thanks
I typically drain the tank completely with the new 'post' filter on so I can check for leaks and rinse the new post at the same time, separate video needed / With tank empty & faucet still open, lift tank to confirm empty (Water weights 8.34 Lb / gallon, so easy to tell if there is water still in the tank) I use an M12 Milwaukee mini digital air compressor to add 7 - 8 psi to the tank, keeping faucet open the entire time, some tanks can be brought back to life for another year, as pre charge is added / the tank will empty completely, If Water stays in, bad tank, water into air bladder. (a bike hand air pump & low pressure tire gauge can be used, normal pressure gauges will not work, they start at 15 - 20 psi, 4 - 8 psi is final target with a water empty tank.
Let's say that I have a reverse osmosis system and I need to change all of the filters as well as the membrane. Do I need to worry about buying the wrong filters or membrane? Or will I be fine as long as these parts include the words reverse osmosis in the selling title?
Shaolin Westerner There are a lot of different filters available and Reverse Osmosis configurations, so it is impossible to give you an easy answer, Hopefully your system has a Thin Film Composite membrane (TFC), you want to get the same output size otherwise your capillary or reject control may need to be changed, IE 18gpd, 36gpd, 50gpd - go with the same size, Is your water municipally chlorinated ? , make sure there is at least one carbon block filter in front of the membrane, IF you have a Cellulose Acetate Membrane (CTO), that likes free chlorine, so no carbon in front of that, there are three to 7 filter (or more) reverse osmosis systems, the type of source water you have is very important in system and filter selection, IE Municipally chlorinated water, do you have a whole house filter for chlorine reduction ? Functioning water softener ? private well so no chlorine ? If there is a place in your system for (1) non-carbon pre-filter, sediment only, I do like 5 micron string wound over molded - they seem to hold up a lot longer without plugging,
I have a Cuno Aquapure PW-RO4 5 stage. I called Cuno (3M) to ask what filters I needed to order. He told me that I needed 2 carbon Pre and 1 sediment Pre (not counting the two top filters) So as I took the 3 filters out, I noticed that there was 2, instead of 1 sediment filter and only one Carbon instead of 2. The canisters also confirmed as they were labeled for 2 sediment and one carbon. Is it OK if I put in 2 carbon and 1 sediment? What would the difference be?
Will not affect water quality. The only down side is that the 1 micron may plug too quickly in the Pre position. You will know because water production will decrease. Just change out Pre-filter at that time for a 5 micron. If plugging of the Pre-filter is problematic (too often) I go to a string wound 5 micron pre-filter - last longer before plugging
Depends on wether the source water is chlorinated (most municipal provided water) or private well - non-chlorinated or chlorine removed after a private chlorination system. Municipal water change pre-filter if sediment annual. The carbon pre-filter should be changed every 6-8 months to protect the membrane from chlorine. Any post carbon filter (filtration after storage tank inline to faucet can last a year or more. Source water which plugs the pre-filter frequently - add a sediment only pre-filter in front of system or improve whole house system.
You are referring to the membrane, we typically change every 2 to 3 years. If you are good at changing the pre-carbon filter and you have soft water feeding the RO, they can last even longer. I usually pre-run a new membrane for 3-4 hours prior to bringing them to the customers house. Otherwise instructions are left for letting the unit run and dumping a couple of times to thoroughly flush the new membrane. A TDS meter is used to check total dissolved solids pre and post membrane, there should be at least a 90% reduction in tds - post membrane.
you need to determine your flow through the system, follow the feed line in, then out of the first filter housing, it may go in one, out into the second, and then to the third, that would be one pre filter followed by (2) carbon block, at any rate find the first filter housing that the in line goes to, that will be a sediment or pre-filter, the others should be carbon.
If you replace a 'Post' carbon (the filer is inline between storage tank and to your faucet, purge a quart or so of water to rinse out the new filter, Test - If air and or some dark water comes out after the filter change, you have changed a post carbon, flush a quart or so of water. If however you replace the membrane, 2 to 4 hours of water makeup / production, should be rinsed to drain before use.
Very Large Channel locks, but unit has to be mounted properly or it will tear off the wall (typically will tear off of dry wall), best to remove entire system, lay it on the floor where your can kinda put a foot on the frame and use a very large channel locks
joe risitano No, you are rinsing out most of the bleach, the new filters filter out any residual, Any residual chlorine will not make it past carbon, membrane, and post carbon filtration.
Will have to be another video, more involved, not done annually, and a good time to do thorough sanitation of entire system. Do to the involved effort of doing all that properly, almost makes for sense to run a system for 4 - 5 years tops, and just replace the whole system with new, new post carb, new membrane, new tank, without all the sanitizing procedures, I generally work on High end Quick change systems, where a sanitation kit is used making all that a snap. More difficult on a cheap conventional system. Will keep a future video in mind though.
@@countrysideecowater Calling you out on this, sorry. The title of the videos says change the filters. That includes the RO filter as recommended. You certainly aren’t supposed to wait a year to change the RO, they recommend 3 months, at which time the other filters are changed as well. And in this filter change it is mandatory to sterilize the whole system. I stand by my comment. Disappointing as it is incomplete.
yes of course follow your manual, and if you fully understand, please do not watch my video, or any other video for that matter, for your own safety ! Hi pressure water can cause serious injure or death !
Excellent "how to" video. Simple, to-the-point, and correct. Now I am a fearless RO filter changer. Thank you!
Great helpful video.This video helped me call the maintenance guys every year instead of every 6 months. I do once in 6 months and every 1 year mark I call the company.
Really good demo. Gets right to the point and adds great comments while doing the job. No llooonnnnggggg intro :)
Great instructional video. Clear, concise, to the point. Thank you!
thanks for telling us how often we need to change each filter.
in the first minutes you answered my question, I must say Thanks!!
This was an awesome instructional video, with clear steps, terminology, and background information. Thanks. Will you be doing a video to replace the 2 horizontal filters? Thanks again.
Very helpful; thank you! I have 2 of these systems at 2 different houses installed by different plumbers, and neither one has shut-off valves on the tubing--neither at the tank or on the intake tube. I turned off the water at 2 valves that are 'typical' (to me) plumbing valves (roundish oval shaped, chrome)--one that turns off the water to the kitchen sink and one at another PVC junction at the bottom of the cabinet, which evidently is an intake to the RO system. I had to turn both valves about 8 turns for them to go all the way off. The little 90 degree turn valves shown in your video are nice; I'm not sure why my systems don't have them. I removed both sumps and lubed the O-rings on each one because the post-filter sump had a slow drip from the top, where the O-ring is. I figured since I had it all shut down I might as well lube them both, even though the pre-filter sump was not dripping. I didn't replace the filters because this system was just installed a couple of months ago. Put it all back together and so far it's dry. I'm not normally brave enough to tackle plumbing projects, but now I have the confidence to change the filters on the RO system at my other house--thanks again!
Very-very clear instructions. Thanks!
Thank you for this! Was able to change my filters.
Just what I needed. Thanks!
Great video. Thank you for your help!
Thank you! Very helpful.
Great video thank you!
Great instruction! Thank you!
Very good! Straight forward and no b.s. 👍
awesome video thank you
awesome vid...easy peasy
great video! thanks
thanks for the vid.
Great how to . Thnx
straight to the point no bullshit thanks buddy i need one of those strap wrenches
Good video thanks
Great video, time and money saver for sure. Could you please give some info on the top two filters. Also if you could provide some info where to find/buy the whole replacement set I would appreciate it. I've got the same set-up at home and little confused how to replace the top two since new models have different set-up and look. Thank you in advance
Well done 👏 ✔
You work just like i do!!
Mad and fucking as efficient as possible!!!
WELL DONE!!!
That's a lot of tubes! Make sure you get an under sink cabinet mat from Xtreme Mats and a water sensor to prevent any water damage from the inevitable leak at @t.
Excellent presentation for the filter system I have... One question. Do you not change anything for the other horizontally placed thing? You covered the two vertically placed filters and the horizontal one on the top but there is one more which was not covered... I am assuming nothing is needed, but I just wanted to double check with you.
Jay, the larger horizontal housing is the reverse osmosis membrane, I recomend replacing every 3 - 5 years, some manufacterers recommend every 2 years. I will have to make/post a video on replaceing the membrane. I am sure others already have. If you do replace the membrane, replace all other cartridges at the same time. Let the system make new water (about 2 hours), leak check, then open faucet and empty completely until a dribble, repeat process, The third time the system fills you can start using the water, A TDS (total dissolved solids meter) would be helpful in determining/verifying a 90% reduction in TDS from the feed/tap water, to verify you are rinsed/purged/all good.
Your video really helps. But how do I change the top top filter? Mine needs it, it's an old GE system. 1 top and 2 bottoms just like this video. Thanks dude!
Great Video! What about the filter that wasn't mentioned, the one below the polishing filter, what is that one for and when does that need to be changed?
+Jason, The membrane (in the horizontal chamber above the pre-filters). Change every 2 years with source water containing hardness. With a properly functioning water softener 3 - 5 years. When changing the membrane is a great time to run bleach through all the housings empty of filters and membrane for thoroughly clean the system. The most common membrane on most standard systems is the TFC 36 gpd (Thin Film Composite, 36 Gallon per day)
+countrysideecowater thank you!
We haven't changed ours in five years and have very hard water. Is is possible they are all seized now - we have the tool, and are killing our wrists trying to get them open. Followed the video to ensure the various water pressure points are off. Help!
As long as you have given depressurization enough time - IE leave feed valve off, leave tank valve off, and drinking water faucet open for several minutes, The extra time to depressurize may be necessary with plugged filters. Someone may have used plumbers dope on the housing threads - hopefully not, (Non-curing O-ring lube on the O-ring only !) You need a much bigger tool for leverage and make sure you really hold the frame or you will rip the mounting hardware right out of whatever it is mounted to. You may even have to remove the unit, lay it on the ground, really hold back on the frame and use the leverage necessary to remove the housings. - Good Luck !
I would like to know how you mounted it in the basement. That is exactly what I would like to do. Is there a video? Thanks!
David I have this same system mounted in my basement to make it as easy as possible I mounted it underneath the kitchen then you simply run the water lines up drill a hole through the bottom of cabinet where sink is and run line up to the faucet. Also have a line run directly to our refrigerator icemaker. You can buy spools of line at home Depot or menards. It's simply have to figure out where to drill of course and it's as easy as running the lines.
Do you drain out the water tank before you start? and What did you mean by "purge" at the tail end of your video? Are you referring to draining out all the water from the tank? Thanks
I typically drain the tank completely with the new 'post' filter on so I can check for leaks and rinse the new post at the same time, separate video needed / With tank empty & faucet still open, lift tank to confirm empty (Water weights 8.34 Lb / gallon, so easy to tell if there is water still in the tank) I use an M12 Milwaukee mini digital air compressor to add 7 - 8 psi to the tank, keeping faucet open the entire time, some tanks can be brought back to life for another year, as pre charge is added / the tank will empty completely, If Water stays in, bad tank, water into air bladder. (a bike hand air pump & low pressure tire gauge can be used, normal pressure gauges will not work, they start at 15 - 20 psi, 4 - 8 psi is final target with a water empty tank.
Let's say that I have a reverse osmosis system and I need to change all of the filters as well as the membrane. Do I need to worry about buying the wrong filters or membrane? Or will I be fine as long as these parts include the words reverse osmosis in the selling title?
Shaolin Westerner There are a lot of different filters available and Reverse Osmosis configurations, so it is impossible to give you an easy answer, Hopefully your system has a Thin Film Composite membrane (TFC), you want to get the same output size otherwise your capillary or reject control may need to be changed, IE 18gpd, 36gpd, 50gpd - go with the same size, Is your water municipally chlorinated ? , make sure there is at least one carbon block filter in front of the membrane, IF you have a Cellulose Acetate Membrane (CTO), that likes free chlorine, so no carbon in front of that, there are three to 7 filter (or more) reverse osmosis systems, the type of source water you have is very important in system and filter selection, IE Municipally chlorinated water, do you have a whole house filter for chlorine reduction ? Functioning water softener ? private well so no chlorine ? If there is a place in your system for (1) non-carbon pre-filter, sediment only, I do like 5 micron string wound over molded - they seem to hold up a lot longer without plugging,
I have a Cuno Aquapure PW-RO4 5 stage. I called Cuno (3M) to ask what filters I needed to order. He told me that I needed 2 carbon Pre and 1 sediment Pre (not counting the two top filters) So as I took the 3 filters out, I noticed that there was 2, instead of 1 sediment filter and only one Carbon instead of 2. The canisters also confirmed as they were labeled for 2 sediment and one carbon. Is it OK if I put in 2 carbon and 1 sediment? What would the difference be?
Can U show how to change the pre filter on top? Is it just quick connects?
hello I change my filters but put a 1 micron in the pre and 5micron in post they are both block filters. Does it matter if I mix the filters up ?
Will not affect water quality. The only down side is that the 1 micron may plug too quickly in the Pre position. You will know because water production will decrease. Just change out Pre-filter at that time for a 5 micron. If plugging of the Pre-filter is problematic (too often) I go to a string wound 5 micron pre-filter - last longer before plugging
Thank You, How often do you change the filter underneath the 2 year filter?
Depends on wether the source water is chlorinated (most municipal provided water) or private well - non-chlorinated or chlorine removed after a private chlorination system. Municipal water change pre-filter if sediment annual. The carbon pre-filter should be changed every 6-8 months to protect the membrane from chlorine. Any post carbon filter (filtration after storage tank inline to faucet can last a year or more. Source water which plugs the pre-filter frequently - add a sediment only pre-filter in front of system or improve whole house system.
You are referring to the membrane, we typically change every 2 to 3 years. If you are good at changing the pre-carbon filter and you have soft water feeding the RO, they can last even longer. I usually pre-run a new membrane for 3-4 hours prior to bringing them to the customers house. Otherwise instructions are left for letting the unit run and dumping a couple of times to thoroughly flush the new membrane. A TDS meter is used to check total dissolved solids pre and post membrane, there should be at least a 90% reduction in tds - post membrane.
Thx. But I have 3 of those big filters. So how do I know which is which? Thank you.
you need to determine your flow through the system, follow the feed line in, then out of the first filter housing, it may go in one, out into the second, and then to the third, that would be one pre filter followed by (2) carbon block, at any rate find the first filter housing that the in line goes to, that will be a sediment or pre-filter, the others should be carbon.
Do you have to flush out 1-2 tank of water after replacing the first sediment > carbon > carbon RO?
If you replace a 'Post' carbon (the filer is inline between storage tank and to your faucet, purge a quart or so of water to rinse out the new filter, Test - If air and or some dark water comes out after the filter change, you have changed a post carbon, flush a quart or so of water. If however you replace the membrane, 2 to 4 hours of water makeup / production, should be rinsed to drain before use.
What is the loosening tool? I always have problems with the crappy platic tool supplied
A good strap wrench, otherwise, an extra large Channel locks
What if the bowl of it is stuck? How can you remove it?
Very Large Channel locks, but unit has to be mounted properly or it will tear off the wall (typically will tear off of dry wall), best to remove entire system, lay it on the floor where your can kinda put a foot on the frame and use a very large channel locks
6 to 8 months? Where i live we gotta change that white filter after 4-5 days and the carbon filter after 3 months, not kidding.
Should title it how you change some of the filters
wouldnt the bleach contaminate the water?
joe risitano No, you are rinsing out most of the bleach, the new filters filter out any residual, Any residual chlorine will not make it past carbon, membrane, and post carbon filtration.
Everyone is afraid of changing the RO membrane.
I will consider making a video for membrane replacement procedure & rinsing
Hmmmm.... you didn’t show how to change ALL filters, particularly they RO membrane or the top prefilter. Disappointing..
Will have to be another video, more involved, not done annually, and a good time to do thorough sanitation of entire system. Do to the involved effort of doing all that properly, almost makes for sense to run a system for 4 - 5 years tops, and just replace the whole system with new, new post carb, new membrane, new tank, without all the sanitizing procedures, I generally work on High end Quick change systems, where a sanitation kit is used making all that a snap. More difficult on a cheap conventional system. Will keep a future video in mind though.
@@countrysideecowater Calling you out on this, sorry. The title of the videos says change the filters. That includes the RO filter as recommended. You certainly aren’t supposed to wait a year to change the RO, they recommend 3 months, at which time the other filters are changed as well. And in this filter change it is mandatory to sterilize the whole system. I stand by my comment. Disappointing as it is incomplete.
He made so many mistakes. Follow your manual for your own safety.
yes of course follow your manual, and if you fully understand, please do not watch my video, or any other video for that matter, for your own safety ! Hi pressure water can cause serious injure or death !