I need to look into this on my '28. This past weekend I noticed it having some light, constant bucking or surging on the highway. I thought it might be head winds, but maybe not.
The video quality (closeup shots) is great in this video. You didn't say what you did to line up the movable arm/contact points with the fixed points. Was it just an adjustment of the point block? If you are using the new points that most of the vendors now sell you will need the newer point block that they also sell. Well done video.
I aligned them the best I could with the block and arm I have. I've ordered the corrected point block and I'll put that in sometime later. Merely getting the contacts parallel and correctly gapped will go a long way (and did in fact resolve the surging problem). I've polished and lubed the cam, so that will help extend the life of the rubbing block. I'll have to remember to check the gap frequently - there are a lot of reports of repro rubbing blocks having a short life.
I spent a lot of time getting the close-ups right. Nothing more annoying than a tech video where you can't see what the hell they're doing. Mostly it involved setting up really bright lights.
For a light-duty dial indicator, Harbor Freight's gauge will work just fine. If you're changing cylinder heads and need to check piston height above the deck, a deck bridge will be required for accuracy. For all other measurements, e.g., flywheel runout, checking play in shaft bushings, crank bearing roundness, etc., the magnetic base is adequate.
Very thorough workmanship 👍 Congratulations from Aotearoa New Zealand 🇳🇿
I need to look into this on my '28. This past weekend I noticed it having some light, constant bucking or surging on the highway. I thought it might be head winds, but maybe not.
Yeah, check that point gap and alignment.
The video quality (closeup shots) is great in this video. You didn't say what you did to line up the movable arm/contact points with the fixed points. Was it just an adjustment of the point block? If you are using the new points that most of the vendors now sell you will need the newer point block that they also sell. Well done video.
I aligned them the best I could with the block and arm I have. I've ordered the corrected point block and I'll put that in sometime later. Merely getting the contacts parallel and correctly gapped will go a long way (and did in fact resolve the surging problem). I've polished and lubed the cam, so that will help extend the life of the rubbing block. I'll have to remember to check the gap frequently - there are a lot of reports of repro rubbing blocks having a short life.
I spent a lot of time getting the close-ups right. Nothing more annoying than a tech video where you can't see what the hell they're doing. Mostly it involved setting up really bright lights.
@alexiskai0 This was very interesting. Thank you for sharing this. Any suggestions on where to purchase a dial gauge?
For a light-duty dial indicator, Harbor Freight's gauge will work just fine. If you're changing cylinder heads and need to check piston height above the deck, a deck bridge will be required for accuracy. For all other measurements, e.g., flywheel runout, checking play in shaft bushings, crank bearing roundness, etc., the magnetic base is adequate.
@@alexiskai A friend of mine used the magnetic base one when he helped me rebuild my steering assembly.