The Perfect "One Watch" - Calatrava, Patrimony, Ultra Thin or ... ?
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- čas přidán 17. 04. 2019
- A long discussion surrounding some of the most sought after dress watches in the world. The Patek Phillipe Calatrava, The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle and the Jaeger Le-Coultre Master Grand Ultra Thin. The focus is around their designs and elements that may not be apparent to most.
I think JLC should replace Audemars in the Holy Trinity
Fully agree! Also a. Lange & shone
Agreed. They’ve already been replaced in my mind
Don’t think so but I do think AP is getting really boring with only Royal Oaks in their lineup
Absolutely agree, also in my opinion Patek also much more expensive…… can it really be justified, or is it just watch snobbery?
LMFAO
Excellent - you truly manage to offer a different viewpoint to all the watch channels out there.
The Vacheron is absolutely beautiful.
I bought and returned the VC, it is nice but the lugs were very prominent
The Vacheron in the video is reference 82172/000R-9382 and it is 38mm in diameter.
Correct! It’s also part of the Traditionnelle family. The 40mm model he appeared to refer to is from the Patrimony line. A careless and easily-avoided mixup
My pic is the J L C I enjoy looking at the moment also it automatic seal's the deal for me. Thoroughly enjoyed the video as always Thank You !👍
I bought the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle a week ago, just caught this older video now, but love how you describe it in such descriptive detail!
Your views and observations are as accurate and precise as the watches you are reviewing. Respect.
Fantastic video...Thanks so much for making it. I tend to agree that the Lange is the best of the bunch, but all of them look amazing.
Lange and VC are absolutely beautiful. Love the dial on the Lange. Love the display back of the VC. Own several steel sports pieces and would love to finish off my collection with one of these pieces.
Agreed
Fantastic review. No other videos could hardly go this deep in one video covering four giants. But I like the JLC the most, it's really vivid.
I‘d go for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master ultra thin but that mainly because of its looks an the fact that I love the brand
Videos like this are why I’m subscribed! Outstanding content
They are all amazing works of art. BUT….the JLC is just damn near perfect. Especially when you factor in price in relation to the others.
Idk…with the cost of a pre-owned Patek Philippe ref. 5196J-001 down to $14,000 it looks like I’m finally getting one.
Excellent video and a thorough review. I’m biased as I own the JLC, but they are all beautiful dress watches.
Your do very enjoyable vids with great images and story’s.keep up the amazing work👍😄
Very interesting. My pick by a small margin is the JLC in red gold. Simple elegance but with a very slight querkiness with the tapered digits.
I like the way you put it that "everyone want a lange" & i'm one of them.
Recently bought a used Ultra Thin. The most beautiful manual wind sound that I own. The salesperson then let me try a new Patrimony (gold, blue dial) and I was in love. Now saving for that.
As a previous owner of the JLC Master Ultra Thin, I agree to an extent. It's a beautiful watch and the value is absolutely outstanding. Its major shortcoming for me was its very large size.
Gorgeous, I’m a JLC fan, generally. I hope to be in a position to have this dilemma for real!
Just a fact that JLC is included in this bunch and goes toe to toe with guys that charge probably double of what JLC would ask for its piece is a testament to the greatness of this watchmaker!
Alexander Meladze 100% agree!
Incredible selection indeed. Patek will most likely hold the best value long term. Jaeger is still my favorite and wins in design and elegance IMO. Patrimony is gorgeous but I'd smuggle Historiques American 1921 in the selection. Lange, well... it's A. Lange!
A very unique way to look at watches, so refreshing to see zero focus on re-sale value. Would you consider doing a vid on JLC Reverso design, perhaps discuss the various iterations??
Why would you re-sell your precious watch?
The understated excellence of the Patek Philippe Calatrava makes it a winner every time for me. Perhaps because as an introvert it speaks to me like no other dress watch does.
I could listen to you talk about watches for hours...
That is so flattering, man. Thank you!
Subscribe I guess
I’d have to get a reverso! I friggin love that thing.
Fantastic review once again. My pick is the Lange - either the Saxonia or the 1815.
Excellent video. Sparks interest to take some time and spend it an AD to get to know each one. Even if have no intention to buy.
Thank you for your excellent presentation, first class.
the Lange kicks ass .... to use a classic phrase 😂😂
My pick is Vacheron: awesome watch, beautiful and well balanced. Only remark: the small seconds. If they were just a tad bigger the watch would be perfect.
Another small remark, you need to be able to afford it first
@@DVSPDC Right. Let's say (provided that dreaming costs nothing): if I had the money to buy one of them (or someone would be so kind to buy one of them for me), then my pick would be the Vacheron.
The problem with these watches (especially Patek, Vacheron and Lange) is also that maintenance or repairs are incredibly expensive.
Lange and the VC are my favorites here.
Traditionally, dress watches didn't have a seconds complication. It was considered impolite or ill-bred for either host or guest to measure one's punctuality to the second at a social event. My nomination is a watch that isn't featured here: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in white gold. BTW, the diameter of the Vacheron is 38mm, and not 40mm as stated here.
Very informative comment. Learned something new today
My thoughts EXACTLY! The ALS Saxonia Thin is the most elegant dress watch on the market today. The silver dial is sublime. This watch would be even better in platinum, but platinum isn't currently offered.
small seconds was very common feature in pocket watch design, i disagree with your theory that it would somehow be considered impolite, you're just making that up.
I quite like the Jaeger-LeCoultre. When i win the lottery, i'm going to purchase all of the Watches mentioned in this video.
Then I guess you aren't ever gonna get these lol
Excellent and what we've come to expect from this channel. The pertinent points of each watch masterly covered. They're all beautiful in their own way, some are more classical than others, but I too would go JLC too. It looks the most modern, being the sharpest and the most standout watch for me.
This video got me thinking. I wonder how a cheap dresswatch would turn out in comparison. Especially with dresswatches which are understated and somewhat plain, are there actual differences that distinguish the expensive ones from the cheap ones?
I am considering the JLC Master right now. Understated elegance and not showy or vulgar like many watches today.
I didn’t follow the lugs comments, which fits best on smaller wrists?
I totally agree, great choice. Thumbs up!
Does anyone know what is the diameter of a manual wind Saxonia 219.026? The one shown in the video. Website says it’s 35 and I hear people say it’s 37. Which is it?
Super video.. so well explained... 👍
The JLC is also available in 38.5 size - I have one. It is also by far the cheapest! The Lange is superb though if I were to get a Lange, it would have to have the big date on it.
I love the big date too. Hope I hope could get my self a Dato in future.
Hello, I enjoyed your great video.
I'm currently trying to buy one between Patrimony and Traditionelle, so what are the pros and cons of each?
For your information, I am 184 centimeters tall and my wrist is about 17.8 centimeters.
Both models are so cool that I have a lot of worries, so I would appreciate it if you could give me some advice on the pros and cons of each model and what to consider when choosing it!
Thanks :)
Wonderful video! Not considering the Lange, because it would win easily in my opinion, the watch that I would choose is the JLC. Elegant, classic and modern at the same time. At the second place the wonderful Patrimony from VC and last the Calatrava. But obviously they are all amazing!
I own a Roamer that looks like the Calatrava but with a sunken seconds dial, which I much prefer. It's in mint condition with a 15 jewel MST movement, only 34mm but I'm only small. I fitted a Seiko croc strap which makes it look superb.
Oh.
Lange ABSOLUTELY worthy of being up there. NO DOUBT !!!!
In the last 15 years, I have never seen anyone 30s - 50s wearing a Patek Calatrava. Not one. My vote is for VC; the Lange is excellent
I would either get the Vacheron with the textured dial or the Lange but in white gold, which fits the Lange better imho...
Vacheron Constantin ❤️
You do an excellent job thank you very much
Can you do Seiko 5 SNK809, thanks!
Breguet classic is one of the best watch ever from the brand that started everything (first automatic movment, first wrist watch, etc)
Can the GS sbgw231 fit in this category? Based off design, not metal or price.
Congrats on reaching 100k views!
Great review! Thoroughly enjoyed it. But what’s with the opening sound effects..
I also hv just one dress watch and many other sports models. Mine is a 1997 special edition Pagoda by PP.
Excellent.. Please make a video about California dials and talk about Nomos Club Campus(no date) dials when you get a chance. 😃
Another fantastic and educational video ... learnt a lot about aesthetics and design. You should start a proper course.
Great review. My choice as well. Love JLC. I will get this watch in a few years.
Great content 👍
Great video!
BTW well put and described!
The VC Traditionelle small seconds featured in this video has a case diameter of 38mm, not 40mm like you say.
Love the e double intro song :D
Id choose the Patek. All beautiful in their own right.
There is no more beautiful watch (for me) than the 5196. Quintessential elegance.
I'd ignore the holy trinity, have a long hard look at a Lange, then go and get a Journe Chronometre Bleu. GRAIL.
or laurent ferrier ... if you have the cash that is of course .. cuz that one is expensive ..
Me too! But that's over $30k U.S. for a time only watch. Could step into a Lange 1 for $20k on the secondary market. I'm with ya though, the FPCB is mighty fine.
CB would be a tough one watch. A great “problem” to have though!
I love the Calatrava, I have tried it a few times and was hoping to get one before I turn 40 i 4 years but now I quit my job and will start to study to become a watch-smith/clock-maker in the autumn and it will take 3 years so I ques I cant buy one before I'm 40. However I am pursuing my dream within the watch world and I'll just have to wear my Day-Date when I want something classic and classy.
Somehow, I would've loved the VC dial on the Patek case. Something about the lugs/shape/proportions on the Patek speaks to me, but the VC triumphs with its dial.
Excellent compilation of timepieces. I wouldn‘t vote for a rosegold watch, but a whitegold or platinum. It is a bit too much for me. Also, if I had to go for „The One Watch“, I would choose a bracelet instead of a leather strap.
Why isn't Breguet a part of this discussion/comparison?
Esthetics, engineering, art and craft... Ivy League Swiss watchmakers are not missing any of it. But, to my mind and to my heart A. Lange & Soehne trumps them all !
Honestly, the Lange is the nicest of all... Everything about it is perfect, the dimensions are bang on and the finishing is outstanding. They are beautiful, but there is something about the Lange that just has the "it" factor.
In love with this video, huge dress watch guy... btw are you South African??
Excellent video so hard for me to pick one l close my eyes and....jlc.
My favourite in this genre so far is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin 172.8.79.S.
The JLC is the best looking of the 4. I'd choose the version with moonphase and blue dial.
What are the diameter of these elegant watches without crown?
Something a bit down to earth? Let's say Seiko Presage line maybe, srpb44 for instance? Hit me!
Would love to see a video on world timers if you have time
VC wins it for me. The integration of the seconds sub-dial is the best.
All beautiful watches, but H. Moser & Cie are the best for me for the beauty and cleanest of their dials. I would have added the H. Moser & Cie Mayu, Ref: 321.503-005 to the list.
The VC traditionnelle 82172 is 38mm and not 40 mm .
Great video . I'd choose the VC
I much prefer cream colored dials on colored gold dress watches. Silver or white look a little too stark against colored gold for my tastes. For a conservative dress watch, for me, ideally - pink/red gold, cream dial, and blued steel hands, indices, and dial printing all on a semi-matte brown gator strap.
That is one nice configuration mate
@@chrissy.v thanks!
Price please. How could I buy one of these watches
I bet this guy could make a $30 Swatch sound like a high-quality art piece.
phenomenal I have been discussing these very watches for weeks now, and I will go for the patek. Thank you, really informative. The jaeger indecies are too aggressive for me and somehow also the most boring of the 4.
I’d love a A Lange!
@daAnder71 as a german, id like to insist on "an" too, as "ah ah" means "sh!t" in german.
A Lange, if it’s Lange 1 - it will win over the rest.
The VC Traditionnelle is 38mm , not 40, no?
The Vacheron is 38mm not 40mm
It seemed smaller than JLC. I noticed the this too
Look at decorating guilloche ; you will notice VC is above the rest.
Great video! FYI I think you're getting a few Lange saxonias models mixed up - only the automatics have the numerals on the sub dial
How much do each of these watches cost?
Low to Mid teens on the secondary market I'd say. USD
Vacheron is 38 mm. they said 40 mm.
I'd take it with a grain of salt. The JLC Master Ultrathin is 40mm now, but in early 2000's it was 38mm. Probably similar is true with others on this list.
It's not. There's only one case size released and it was 38mm then and it's 38mm now
misterzero84 LOL now it’s 39 with the awutomique written on it
The 5196 is the one have. It allows you to regret not getting the others, but not enough to trade it away.
The VC for me. I only wish I could afford such a watch.
This guy could elegantly describe the differences between various cat turds. That's a video idea he should consider. We'd all watch.
Thanks
Awesome
Superb! My heart is still in the YG 5196, while I have not been able of seen a YG or WG in the flesh nevertheless I have visited or called all Patek ADs in South California, and some used watches dealers... I have only seen some RG and a PT. I have seen physically the other references in your video and are great too, it seems that the stock on the non Pateks is not a problem. A great thing on the JLC is that there is SS version at a much lower price than the PMs.
Lange is the best of the group. For me, for over 40 years, since college my favorite has been a Piaget Protocole ultrathin. While I have a few others, this particular watch is one I truly love. I know the men and family who made it, and the history of the company itself going back to 1874. While Patek makes fine watches, its owners have not been historically watchmakers themselves. The Sterns are excellent merchants and businessmen. I prefer watches where actual family members have their signature on the watches they produce. Thanks.
It was the Master Ultra Thin Moon for me, until I set eyes on the Saxonia!