I spent nearly $400.00 on changing out wheel sets and couplers on about 100 pieces of rolling stock. I changed the wheels from plastic to metal (after all, trains have metal wheels) & body mounted Kaydee couplers. I also took the time to weather each piece of rolling stock. Took me several months to complete the project. I also changed out all the incandescent lighting on coaches to LED lighting and changed out the headlamps of locomotives to LED's as well along with proper ballast resistors. I used mini full wave bridge rectifiers, LED strip lighting (the ones that can be cut apart at every 3rd LED & have the ballast - current limiting resistors - already on the LED strips). I also used 3200uF capacitors for flicker free lighting. I even lit up an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach by making my own wheel pickups out of some scrap copper I salvaged from an old computer. The LED strip lighting is 12 volt DC and I think I used about 12 LED's per coach. I used bright white LED's but they turned out to be too bright, so I painted each LED with yellow acrylic paint and now they look period correct with yellow lighting. I also changed out all coal loads to real coal. I had a big lump of bituminous coal I went after with a hammer (outside of course) and smashed it into HO scale. I also brought each piece of rolling stock up to NMRA standard weight for each piece of rolling stock. Cheers from eastern TN
Pretty good video. Tip: Also use a screw to secure the coupler box to the underside of the car bottom. Glue will eventualy dry, crack, and weaken ... if there is a screw there, it will never let go, even if the glue weakens and lets go.
I am usually not a fan of glue boxes only. But on some of these cars, a screw would hit the flat metal weight on the floor. To get around this either cut off piece of the weight from the ends ( 1/4-1/2in.) or drill a clearance hole( 1/4-3/8 in) in the weight ,where the 2-56 screw would protrude. Your solution avoids these extra cumbersome steps. However, a screwed on coupler (w/o glue) would allow for removal after height check in case it had to be shimmed down.
I actually like it better if I hit metal on the ends of the weight. Because I can drill a #50 hole, and tap it for 2-56 and the weight acts as sort of a nut to help hold the coupler box screw in place.
i have short screws (drill and tap) i use to hold the athearn metal couple cover onto the factory center pin. up to 1/2 in in length (for that special project). but yes mark the metal, and over drill it out. but most factory weights have holes there already. or i dump it and add in my own lead weights as per nmra standard. but yes screw them on as it is easier to take care of maintenance issues.
Nice video. Thank you to have taken the time to demonstrate it. I had a lot of those old Bachmann cars. And I converted all the one with a proper place to put the Kadee box. I screwed the Kadee box instead of gluing it. The coupler height were correct like yours. Some cars, the height will not be proper, so I am waiting to do those. I intend to put some plastic filler between the Kadee box and the car body. On those hard to fix the coupler, I some time just replace the existing coupler by the Kadee. It stays a coupler on the truck, but it is at least a Kadee! It works well, a little bit lower than supposed!
Thanks for the tips. After commuting 2 times a week on Amtrak i'm getting into the hobby. I found some old Amtrak rolling stock that I could find anywhere else the only issue is there still using horn hook couplers. I will use your tips.
thanks dave , that is excactlly what I was asking ,, looks to have taken about ten mins start to finish , and no blood ,, lol ,, thanks for the video, , , thanks chris for the couplers and coupler boxes ,,
+sparky107107 Kris is always so generous with letting me "borrow" stuff. Please let me know if you have any question or need how-to's on anything else!
Four years ago, I converted a couple of Bachmann 50' mechanical reefers. In doing the couplers body mount, I had to add a piece of plastic about 1/4" wide by 3/8" long and 3/32" thick, between the floor of the underframe and the bottom of the coupler box. Because when I tried to mount the coupler box directly to the frame, I saw my couplers were too high, and wouldn't center up with the others. I went ahead and replaced the trucks and wheels with Athearn Barber Roller bearing trucks.
I am just getting started in modelling and weathering. This is a great video showing this step. I plan on using old tyco,bachmann and the like to practice my skills on. never know maybe some will be worthy of running in a consist.
Thanks for the vid. A suggestion: instead of the process you go through with the electrical tape, get yourself a good pin vise, small drill bits and some small screws to mount the coupler box to the under-frame. That is why there is a hole in the coupler box. If you still want to add a dab of model glue toward the back end of the box you can, but after you have screwed it to the car. With the screw you can easily take things apart if you have to to fix something-you can't with your tape and glue method. Also, those coupler boxes you used are not meant for the Kadee whisker couplers (148s might be the kind you used). Those boxes are for Kadee #5s, used with the bronze metal spring. Kadee makes a different box to use w/there whisker couplers.
Very good idea but in my case I only had to do it on 4 cars so it wasn't worth going through all the work and buying everything. the coupler boxes seem to be holding up just fine too so I got lucky. Thanks for your comment!
+Daveh88 I hear you bro. The hobby can put a dent in the wallet. Sometime though, planning and thinking ahead can save you when all is said and done ;)
I actually purchase a used Tyco Swift refrigerator car that someone added body mounted couplers to and chaned the trucks to metal ones with working springs. I have recently discovered it's a popular car to modify.
Daveh88 I do prefer body mounted couplers though. I recently made this modification with one old Tyco hopper. Knuckle couplers on the trucks just didn't work right on that car.
On other cars I found blowing them first is good you can make sure they get centered okay but if you decide to run a screw it is a wise idea to put a small piece of plastic on the opposite side was the screw will come out to thicken it and make it hold much more firmly....
I have found you want the body on the chassis when you said the coupler or the comforter sets too far back and underneath the car throwing off the distance between the cars....
hey Dave. This is exact video I am looking for. I have a Bachmann Chessie System boxcar (old) and has the truck with a coupler on it. now the way I saw you video makes me want to buy some kadee coupler #148. I have a super glue but I wasn't sure if that was the glue that I was going to use or not. I have a question. What type of glue were you using and where can I buy one?
Daveh88 Good Idea. Alot of people said it's a bad idea. But for the record I think it's a good idea cause in such cars bottom frame doesn't come off there may be a solutio to glue it down.
Also, if you are going to go through all that, might as well add some weight-guarantee that car is waaaaay underweight by NMRA standards. Extra weight will allow it to run better as well.
Kyle Vice I looked at some pictures of them, they seem to look close to what I had. can you cut off the coupler holder off the truck then mount the kadee box like I did?
+Daveh88 I have them too haha and I like saving money. Check out ShopGoodwill online for classic HO scale trains, there are tons on there. I built my inventory off that website. I got a lot of cars from what I seen growing up
I spent nearly $400.00 on changing out wheel sets and couplers on about 100 pieces of rolling stock. I changed the wheels from plastic to metal (after all, trains have metal wheels) & body mounted Kaydee couplers. I also took the time to weather each piece of rolling stock. Took me several months to complete the project. I also changed out all the incandescent lighting on coaches to LED lighting and changed out the headlamps of locomotives to LED's as well along with proper ballast resistors. I used mini full wave bridge rectifiers, LED strip lighting (the ones that can be cut apart at every 3rd LED & have the ballast - current limiting resistors - already on the LED strips). I also used 3200uF capacitors for flicker free lighting. I even lit up an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach by making my own wheel pickups out of some scrap copper I salvaged from an old computer. The LED strip lighting is 12 volt DC and I think I used about 12 LED's per coach. I used bright white LED's but they turned out to be too bright, so I painted each LED with yellow acrylic paint and now they look period correct with yellow lighting. I also changed out all coal loads to real coal. I had a big lump of bituminous coal I went after with a hammer (outside of course) and smashed it into HO scale. I also brought each piece of rolling stock up to NMRA standard weight for each piece of rolling stock. Cheers from eastern TN
Pretty good video. Tip: Also use a screw to secure the coupler box to the underside of the car bottom. Glue will eventualy dry, crack, and weaken ... if there is a screw there, it will never let go, even if the glue weakens and lets go.
I am usually not a fan of glue boxes only. But on some of these cars, a screw would hit the flat metal weight on the floor. To get around this either cut off piece of the weight from the ends ( 1/4-1/2in.) or drill a clearance hole( 1/4-3/8 in) in the weight ,where the 2-56 screw would protrude. Your solution avoids these extra cumbersome steps. However, a screwed on coupler (w/o glue) would allow for removal after height check in case it had to be shimmed down.
I actually like it better if I hit metal on the ends of the weight. Because I can drill a #50 hole, and tap it for 2-56 and the weight acts as sort of a nut to help hold the coupler box screw in place.
i have short screws (drill and tap) i use to hold the athearn metal couple cover onto the factory center pin. up to 1/2 in in length (for that special project). but yes mark the metal, and over drill it out. but most factory weights have holes there already. or i dump it and add in my own lead weights as per nmra standard.
but yes screw them on as it is easier to take care of maintenance issues.
@@michaelmorgan7893 ingenious mounting option.
Newbie here and this was extremely helpful, thankyou
Nice video. Thank you to have taken the time to demonstrate it.
I had a lot of those old Bachmann cars. And I converted all the one with a proper place to put the Kadee box. I screwed the Kadee box instead of gluing it. The coupler height were correct like yours. Some cars, the height will not be proper, so I am waiting to do those. I intend to put some plastic filler between the Kadee box and the car body.
On those hard to fix the coupler, I some time just replace the existing coupler by the Kadee. It stays a coupler on the truck, but it is at least a Kadee! It works well, a little bit lower than supposed!
Thanks for the tips. After commuting 2 times a week on Amtrak i'm getting into the hobby. I found some old Amtrak rolling stock that I could find anywhere else the only issue is there still using horn hook couplers. I will use your tips.
thanks dave , that is excactlly what I was asking ,, looks to have taken about ten mins start to finish , and no blood ,, lol ,, thanks for the video, , , thanks chris for the couplers and coupler boxes ,,
+sparky107107 Kris is always so generous with letting me "borrow" stuff. Please let me know if you have any question or need how-to's on anything else!
Four years ago, I converted a couple of Bachmann 50' mechanical reefers. In doing the couplers body mount, I had to add a piece of plastic about 1/4" wide by 3/8" long and 3/32" thick, between the floor of the underframe and the bottom of the coupler box. Because when I tried to mount the coupler box directly to the frame, I saw my couplers were too high, and wouldn't center up with the others.
I went ahead and replaced the trucks and wheels with Athearn Barber Roller bearing trucks.
I actually working on upgrading some cars and this video is perfect! Thank you for sharing.
+MrCipher666 I'm glad I can help! If you have any questions let me know.
I am just getting started in modelling and weathering. This is a great video showing this step. I plan on using old tyco,bachmann and the like to practice my skills on. never know maybe some will be worthy of running in a consist.
Very grateful to you! I can now upgrade my ancient boxcars!
Nice vid bud! I have been looking for an instructional video on how to do this. I have many older cars to transform. Thank you
Sorry for my late reply, but I'm glad I could help!
Thanks for the vid. A suggestion: instead of the process you go through with the electrical tape, get yourself a good pin vise, small drill bits and some small screws to mount the coupler box to the under-frame. That is why there is a hole in the coupler box. If you still want to add a dab of model glue toward the back end of the box you can, but after you have screwed it to the car. With the screw you can easily take things apart if you have to to fix something-you can't with your tape and glue method. Also, those coupler boxes you used are not meant for the Kadee whisker couplers (148s might be the kind you used). Those boxes are for Kadee #5s, used with the bronze metal spring. Kadee makes a different box to use w/there whisker couplers.
Very good idea but in my case I only had to do it on 4 cars so it wasn't worth going through all the work and buying everything. the coupler boxes seem to be holding up just fine too so I got lucky. Thanks for your comment!
+Daveh88 You're welcome. Consider you may actually do more of this in the future. Tends to happen the longer you are in the hobby, lol !
+James Brock And one further point; a pin vise is a great all around tool, not just for coupler box work, the same with the screws and drill bits.
+James Brock Good point. I try not too think that far ahead because when I do my wallet hurts. Lol. I'll keep it in mind for sure. thanks!
+Daveh88 I hear you bro. The hobby can put a dent in the wallet. Sometime though, planning and thinking ahead can save you when all is said and done ;)
I actually purchase a used Tyco Swift refrigerator car that someone added body mounted couplers to and chaned the trucks to metal ones with working springs. I have recently discovered it's a popular car to modify.
That's awesome! Thanks for the comment.
Daveh88 Kadee also has some whisker coupler boxes that snap together you can still use the number 5 coupler and centering spring if you prefer.
Daveh88 Kadee also has some whisker coupler boxes that snap together you can still use the number 5 coupler and centering spring if you prefer.
Daveh88 I do prefer body mounted couplers though. I recently made this modification with one old Tyco hopper. Knuckle couplers on the trucks just didn't work right on that car.
I just wanted to say you..do not have to cut the original copper pocket off the athrerine frain it will take Katie coupler number fives just fine....
On other cars I found blowing them first is good you can make sure they get centered okay but if you decide to run a screw it is a wise idea to put a small piece of plastic on the opposite side was the screw will come out to thicken it and make it hold much more firmly....
I have found you want the body on the chassis when you said the coupler or the comforter sets too far back and underneath the car throwing off the distance between the cars....
Looks like Kadie whisker coupler #148s good standard 5s.
Well done.
hey Dave. This is exact video I am looking for. I have a Bachmann Chessie System boxcar (old) and has the truck with a coupler on it. now the way I saw you video makes me want to buy some kadee coupler #148. I have a super glue but I wasn't sure if that was the glue that I was going to use or not. I have a question. What type of glue were you using and where can I buy one?
I was using super glue from the dollar store. The cheapest I could find. I never had any issues with them.
Daveh88 Good Idea. Alot of people said it's a bad idea. But for the record I think it's a good idea cause in such cars bottom frame doesn't come off there may be a solutio to glue it down.
CSX2057 I just figured it's easier than the alternatives and work just as well. Cheaper and faster too. Lol
Why not put metal wheels on the car and tune the trucks so it rolls better . You already put kadee on the car .
Also, if you are going to go through all that, might as well add some weight-guarantee that car is waaaaay underweight by NMRA standards. Extra weight will allow it to run better as well.
Another good point. This video is just a how to for the couplers, but off camera I actually did add some weight. Thanks for the comment!
+Daveh88 No problem. How'd you break the coupler box off the Athearn?
Daveh88
I used sharp pliers to cut them off of the body.
James Brock yes snips I usually call them. lol
OMG!!! Please help!!!! Can't seem to figure to convert old school horn hooks to Kadee couplers to Kadee couplers when it has a "Talgo style truck.
Kyle Vice I looked at some pictures of them, they seem to look close to what I had. can you cut off the coupler holder off the truck then mount the kadee box like I did?
sounds like a good idea. I will get back with you and let you know how that works.
okay so I tried one you way and that worked really well.Thank you so much
I'm glad I could help. You're very welcome.
Kadee 158s
Will this method work on tyco kadee couplers
It should, though I'm sure there are slight modifications you may need to make.
HELP I CANNOT CHANGE THE COUPOLERS ON MY ATHEARN ROUNDHOUSE CABOOSE!
every single piece of rolling stock in my collection with bogies are truck mounted
Can’t see what you are doing
You guys are all the same......too much talking about nothing ! I'll bet most of you guys are Yankee's !
Nice vid bud! I have been looking for an instructional video on how to do this. I have many older cars to transform. Thank you
Glad I could help! Thanks for the comment.
+Daveh88 I like the old backstops too!
+Realest1979 Thanks! I know they're not "prototypical" but I'm all about saving money where I can plus I really don't mind them.
+Daveh88 I have them too haha and I like saving money. Check out ShopGoodwill online for classic HO scale trains, there are tons on there. I built my inventory off that website. I got a lot of cars from what I seen growing up