If you value surfing and your well being, SoCal isn't an option in this age. Gotta move somewhere else. Off season Rincon is beautiful tho. I doubt that will ever get crowded.
That's about as perfect as that place gets but the crowd can make things dangerous. I know 2 very experienced surfers who were hurt there pretty bad from collisions. One of them had surfed there since the early 60s. That injury started him on a health downslide leading to his passing. P.s. great footage with the best song the Stones ever made to accompany it.
This is why ppl need to respect the right of way and not snake. Ppl have been injured and killed.....by careless kooks that think they surf. Don't snake! Save lives in the water 🌊💪👍🤙🤙🌊🌊🌊🌊🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I was thinking the exact same thing about that song. I was a 18 year old SoCal surfer in 1971 and that was the soundtrack. Can't You Hear Me Knocking on the album Sticky Fingers, 1971.
(3:05) I like it when the footage shows the movement of the crowd right before catching the wave. Good positioning and always alert pay off the efforts!
Every single one of you were a kook at one time and some of you still are...Yes even I claimed Kook status once upon a time. So some of you need to lighten up. Enjoy the wave, it's a beautiful thing for all of us to enjoy.
Agree with the second half. I don't think beginner = kook. A beginner who has respect for the lineup and etiquette is far less of a kook than an intermediate-advanced surfer who drops in, snakes, back paddles, and brings a bad attitude to the lineup. My nipples are soo hard yess daddy I like that
Connor you’re a natural and proven great. Keep up the good work thank you for the upload! I’ve been drydocked and it was good for the soul to see the boys getting some good ones while I’m out. (Would’ve been watching from the kiddie bowl anyway)
comment section is pathetic, why is surf just a bunch of sour dudes who think that they are the world's gift to surfing? it's a dance with nature, just enjoy your ride and run over who's in the way :)
2 cents - I see lots of comments on surfing etiquette and very few who actually spend years and decades of their lives surfing that break. From someone who’s been surfing there for 30 years since I was 5; the single worst thing that the Johnny-come-lately surfers do is instinctively paddle straight for the channel when the solid waves roll through the reef. The type of s%#t that legitimately gets you kicked out from any break wherever real surfing rules apply. Long boarders, mid-lengths and 5’11”’s I’ve seen the worst fuckery of COWARDS paddling to the channel to avoid a 6’ faced barreling wave and completely ruining a man’s perfectly placed tube ride. Paddle to the north if you’re caught inside trying for scraps and take it like a man. Anyone caught trashing the man we all look up too is putting the locals on notice. You’re doing us a favor.
A couple really great rides andsurfing hidden in plain view on some amazing surf in this edit. Definitely worth wading through the too crowded conditions and wipeouts to see the good stuff...perfect soundtrack too.
My favorite Stones song, and there's lots. I read somewhere Mick just wanted to keep playing so they kept the tape rolling. Too many other good breaks around to suffer that kind of crowd. Regardless, one of the hollowest days there I've ever seen
Great waves, a few nice rides, and way too many guys in the water vying for a spot. I surfed Swami's long, long ago and loved the place. Stayed at the Log Cabin Motel and had cheap meals at a nearby fast food place. I'm sure those places disappeared many years ago.
I don't live that way anymore I haven't for a long time but when I do business down that way everytime I look at it there's like one guy in the water that can surf the rest just seem to be falling all over the place crazy
Not sure such perfect waves are even worth it with that crowd. I surfed all over California for years but moved to Idaho. I miss those waves but not a crowd like that one
Back in the day before cell phone rats you would get a beat down when you snaked someone. Let's implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake. Worked back then.🤙💪🍻🦆🌊👍
@@JunkWorld-Junk-Removal I just hope I’m there to watch when rubber ducky is out to “implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake”. Heavy claim!
@@rubberducky9925 merp, ya the lil barrel is NOT an Uppers thing, it does happen. but again...where is this?? Not many options with that view and space in the OC. 🌊🤩
Never thought such beautiful waves would be soo nauseating to watch...burners and heroes fill the screen..Out of words..
I grew up there surfing and this is the worst it has ever been. Broke my board the night before and decided I would film the circus show
If you value surfing and your well being, SoCal isn't an option in this age. Gotta move somewhere else. Off season Rincon is beautiful tho. I doubt that will ever get crowded.
I didn't see anyone.
The backsider with the long hair who's riding a board way too small for those conditions is probably a vegan.
Zach Flores lol
The most polite surfers," Dropping -in", Thanks Sucks.
Great music for once. Nice of the Stones to let you use their song ;)
khabbalist muzac
Nice waves, Nice song! Everything Nice!!!!!!
Nice waves...but I've never seen so many kooks out at one break in my life 🤣🤣
I surfed for 53 years Ventura/Santa Barbara I quit 15 years ago back surgery. I had the best you can have the rest.
I'm 50 still surfing La Jolla, Seaside, Oceanside. Sometimes Santa Barbara. Keep surfing till you die 👍🌊💪🌞🤙🤙
I quit due to crowds like this one. Surfed my brains out from ‘71-2002
@@marcduncan139 Good for you brotha!
Circumstances have left me away from being out there all I need is just one of those set wave just one
Regular day in Santa Cruz
Damn the fleas are out 😉 love the music 🎼🎶 must be lot more old school 🏄 postings keep them coming 🤙
Swarmies! Only saw 1 dude that can surf!
Good call Slater...
kook fest as always
Naw bro, like 3 maybe
Nice conditions.🤓
Barrel dodgers
That's about as perfect as that place gets but the crowd can make things dangerous. I know 2 very experienced surfers who were hurt there pretty bad from collisions. One of them had surfed there since the early 60s. That injury started him on a health downslide leading to his passing.
P.s. great footage with the best song the Stones ever made to accompany it.
damm thats so sad.
Sorry to hear that man 🙏🏻
This is why ppl need to respect the right of way and not snake. Ppl have been injured and killed.....by careless kooks that think they surf. Don't snake! Save lives in the water 🌊💪👍🤙🤙🌊🌊🌊🌊🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I was thinking the exact same thing about that song. I was a 18 year old SoCal surfer in 1971 and that was the soundtrack.
Can't You Hear Me Knocking on the album Sticky Fingers, 1971.
An injury from a surfing collision basically led to death? Damn! Can you go into a little more detail what happened, if you don't mind.
(3:05) I like it when the footage shows the movement of the crowd right before catching the wave.
Good positioning and always alert pay off the efforts!
What a time to be alive!
Right on 😎😎😎😎✌️🎺
Insane! I'm very impressed by those waves😎
Swamii's is one of my favorite waves.
waves can't be perfect when there are 50 guys out
Hahaha very true
It's Swamis man, if there are less than 50 guys out it isn't working.
Swarmies.
' swarmies' thats a good one. Thanks kevin.
Excellent footage/ edit!
Every single one of you were a kook at one time and some of you still are...Yes even I claimed Kook status once upon a time. So some of you need to lighten up. Enjoy the wave, it's a beautiful thing for all of us to enjoy.
Agree with the second half. I don't think beginner = kook. A beginner who has respect for the lineup and etiquette is far less of a kook than an intermediate-advanced surfer who drops in, snakes, back paddles, and brings a bad attitude to the lineup. My nipples are soo hard yess daddy I like that
Sick! Great choice on the music. I've never seen Swami's that perfect.
then you having been in the game very long
Great music. Perfect day… I love my town!
Encinitas Locals 👍🌊🦆🍻
Nice Footage, The Stones, Fred and Barney.
I just had to watch this one more time what an awesome day you can get going so fast out there on days like this
Connor you’re a natural and proven great. Keep up the good work thank you for the upload! I’ve been drydocked and it was good for the soul to see the boys getting some good ones while I’m out. (Would’ve been watching from the kiddie bowl anyway)
Wow..some epic waves going to relative waste for the most part.
comment section is pathetic, why is surf just a bunch of sour dudes who think that they are the world's gift to surfing? it's a dance with nature, just enjoy your ride and run over who's in the way :)
funny
2 cents - I see lots of comments on surfing etiquette and very few who actually spend years and decades of their lives surfing that break.
From someone who’s been surfing there for 30 years since I was 5; the single worst thing that the Johnny-come-lately surfers do is instinctively paddle straight for the channel when the solid waves roll through the reef. The type of s%#t that legitimately gets you kicked out from any break wherever real surfing rules apply.
Long boarders, mid-lengths and 5’11”’s I’ve seen the worst fuckery of COWARDS paddling to the channel to avoid a 6’ faced barreling wave and completely ruining a man’s perfectly placed tube ride. Paddle to the north if you’re caught inside trying for scraps and take it like a man. Anyone caught trashing the man we all look up too is putting the locals on notice. You’re doing us a favor.
You gotta love California!
that ride at 1:12 was amazing
best swamis I have seen; surfers need to not drop in on another and eat the whitewater when someone is on the wave. crazy circus ruining perfect surf.
@@connerkeck777 I surfed it about 2× overhead at night, Christmas Eve, going into Christmas... It was pretty epic.
Epik swell and sick ass barrels on this day..
Perfect for my moonraker
Sick edit!
Thanks man!
Wow it's epic Swami's thanks for the video
Sweet sesh, killer beats
Remember going out there in the 70s. Surf like that but hardly anybody out.
Damn, Tourmo lookin pretty good
Sick!!
The Stones jamming for a surf movie . CHOICE .
“All I need are some tasty waves”…
KSN crew…LA 🤘🏼
great vibes, irie vibrations jaa bless!
Waaay too many people. Makes for wave greed and poor choice of takeoff point on an already shifty break. Sad to watch, truth be told… .
A couple really great rides andsurfing hidden in plain view on some amazing surf in this edit. Definitely worth wading through the too crowded conditions and wipeouts to see the good stuff...perfect soundtrack too.
looks like a bunch of seals
My favorite Stones song, and there's lots. I read somewhere Mick just wanted to keep playing so they kept the tape rolling. Too many other good breaks around to suffer that kind of crowd. Regardless, one of the hollowest days there I've ever seen
I'm pretty sure that wasn't the stones.
Stones and local motion fun fest.
The tool known as Zeke.
Pumpin!!
Great waves, a few nice rides, and way too many guys in the water vying for a spot. I surfed Swami's long, long ago and loved the place. Stayed at the Log Cabin Motel and had cheap meals at a nearby fast food place. I'm sure those places disappeared many years ago.
Shhhhh
@@expedition2698 What, did I give away some secret?
@@surfwriter8461 nah I’m just kidding. Cuz ya know it’s always so crowded and stuff
2:22 two snakes on the same wave. Yup that's Swami's. 🤣
Kooksville. That one decent surfer must have had a ball!
Quality !
I don't live that way anymore I haven't for a long time but when I do business down that way everytime I look at it there's like one guy in the water that can surf the rest just seem to be falling all over the place crazy
Tourmaline
Seal Beach was graced by the GOAT, KS11 during that swell
Place is too easy to paddle out. Keeps the lineup full of kooks.
swarmis
That was a nasty burn at 2:22+…. but a great ride
He’s been surfing out there longer than most of those people have been alive. If you surfed out there you would know exactly who he is!
@@connerkeck777 long enough feel entitled to other people's wave lol
Will you be out there for this insane upcoming swell?
looks like swams at its best
Southern Cal can get very good.
Law Street going off.
Nice waves, what are all those plasma donors doing floating in the water?
When their tubed and people drop in or paddle out in front of them that sucks.
1:36 - knee crumple. hope that dude is OK.
yea that hurt my knees watching that one
Ouch! Looks worse in slo mo.
Who’s the goofyfoot on the purple fish? Buttery.
Zach Flores
Rad
Kook Convention
Not sure such perfect waves are even worth it with that crowd. I surfed all over California for years but moved to Idaho. I miss those waves but not a crowd like that one
Somos demasiados.
my god.. so many cheese dix & buoys
*KOOK @ **2:25**.*
TYPICAL Swammi’s Kook maneuver.
blows my mind someone would do this. how do you not see the guy?
The only time this place is good is when it has size.
Probably my fave wave in SoCal … insert tiresome complaint about overcrowding here ____________
Geez, everyone's out of position on the first one...
lower trussels, by the look of it?
Yes
Only two guys out...
Back in the day before cell phone rats you would get a beat down when you snaked someone. Let's implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake. Worked back then.🤙💪🍻🦆🌊👍
just imagine what it will look like in 10 years.
He exposed himself as someone who’s never been in the pack on a good day. B. I. gets any wave he wants
@@spoonclink5822 thank you
@@JunkWorld-Junk-Removal I just hope I’m there to watch when rubber ducky is out to “implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake”. Heavy claim!
Yeah. Let’s implimant raw.
2:51 !!
Looks like Swamis.
all the kooks are from the IE guaranteed
Do people ever go left here?
Nice, looks a lot like Uppers, but...maybe Churches...
Not even close.. Treasles is such a weak wave.
@@rubberducky9925 merp, ya the lil barrel is NOT an Uppers thing, it does happen. but again...where is this?? Not many options with that view and space in the OC. 🌊🤩
Oh please, again. It's a singular 'Church'! Stop the misinformation!
@@barclaysauers255 lol, you probably never even surfed it. 😘
@@SeniorMoostacho Probably before you were born. Now you are 2 for 2 but don't let that stop ya!
Swarmis!
Cold blooded at 2:26. Oof.
Snake City
Shoulder hopping snakebirds! Shameful.
Swarmis.
1:58 zeke&destroy 🤘🏻
Kooks and transplants
CAPSLOCK ON CZcams ALERT
Looks like Swamiis