Charging Lithium Batteries with My Boat's Alternator
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- čas přidán 14. 06. 2021
- Gary sent us a question about his lithium batteries. He said, "Jeff, thanks for all you do for the marine industry. I particularly like your longer seminar videos. I am installing 4 X 170Ah 12V LiFePO4 house batteries in parallel that are combined with a 4D AGM start battery via a BlueSea automatic charging relay. Each battery has its own BMS.
My concern is for a scenario where all BMS’s shut off the charging input. Will the AGM absorb the load without a momentary disconnect from the alternator causing the alternator to run without a load blowing the diodes? The regulator is externally controlled via a Balmar 614. Any other red flags on my install?"
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![WATCH THIS before installing lithium batteries on your sailboat ⚡ [RYAN'S TECH CORNER]](/img/n.gif)
Excellent. So many people want lithium without really understanding it, or the comprises built into the BMS of “drop-in” replacements. As noted the lithium could potentially “go dark” due to too high of a voltage. If using a battery isolator then there is potentially no battery in the house circuit. Major issue if any high draw item is turned on as the alternator, and likely the isolator, will not handle it. That’s why I’m a fan of the firefly batteries you promote. Lithium really needs separate charge/draw bus topography, with separate automatic disconnects, so it can continue to provide loads (if over charged), or receive a load (if undercharged). That and all chargers need to be properly configured to limit charge voltage (measured at the battery).
Great explanation Jeff. I echo what some else said in that so many people want to install these lithium systems without understanding them properly researching them and understanding this is not a one size fits all. Please do your research understand there are many ways to go about it with drawbacks to each. If you don't know what you are doing please have a qualified system designer check over your design who has some experience with these out in the field. We get calls from even installers who still don't quite understand these systems. We offer a wide variety of products such as our new 618 regulator with preprogramed lithium settings and and wireless monitoring and specific programing through our SG200 and app. Also adjust the belt load manager to limit current if you find your alternator is heating up to quickly. It is imperative that the alternator temperature sensor is connected and working properly to not risk damage to the alternator with these systems.
Jeff, great subject. My only suggestion to enhance it is to accompany the explanation with a superimposed diagram.
not sure why youndidnt mention a “third” method?
Thanks for the video. In your screen shot of the isolator, you show the ArgoDiode and not the ArgoFET. Any reason and do you prefer one over the other? I installed an ArgoFET in my system to eliminate the 0.7v drop on the diodes.
thanks for sharing
In your example, what would be the difference between running the Argodiode vs a ArfoFET (I have the 100A one input, 3 output between my alt and house \ start batteries). I'm asking because I currently have my single engine alt charging my starter battery and 8d house battery but I want to replace my 8d with two 100AH lifepo4 batteries. I'm trying to figure out what other components I need, I was thinking I needed a dc to dc charger as well but I'm not sure if I should keep the FET in there as well.
Jeff, I've enjoyed binge watching your videos, and really appreciate your educational approach.
thanks
I apologize if this has been covered in the comments already, but in my setup, the alternator seems to be connected to the BOTH ( Common ) post of my battery selector switch. I have an AGM starting battery connected to switch position 1 and a Lithium battery ( house ) connected to switch position 2. The batteries have their Negative terminals connected together. My question.. if I want to charge my lithium off the alternator... would it be OK to start the engines with the selector switch to BOTH so both batteries charge? Not sure if I need any type of DC to DC converter or if the switch in the BOTH position would just split that voltage and just allow voltage to continue to travel to the AGM in case of the lithium BMS shutting down. Basically protecting the alternator by always having the AGM connected.
hi, just bought an Ionic lithium starter battery. Looking into using my yamaha 200 alternator to power pure (no agm) lithium house and battery banks while underway. also have a chargeverter to power the ac while underway and power all batteries dockside - just trying to figure out how to wire it and what I need. thanks
I'm just looking into lithium batteries as my agm is wore out. I have a evinrude 40hp etech motor. I'm wondering how well a boat motor will charge a lithium battery as the voltages do not match? Can a lithium run as a starter and be used to run the electronics on my boat? Or to use lithium in a boat do you need to batteries two make it work? I've looked at renogy dc-dc charger to use if two batteries are needed but this starts to run up the cost.
I think the battery isolator does not restrict the amperage going into the lithium battery and may cause the alternator to die of heat exhaustion. Please correct me if I'm wrong
I have two alternators on a single engine. A 135A charging the two AGM start batteries and a 245A charging the three (now two) 198Ah AGM batteries. Since one of my house batteries recently bit the dust I am looking to upgrade them to lithium (Approx 600-800Ah). What would be the best recommendation to charge the lithium with my setup? Have both alternators charge the start bank with enough battery isolators to charge the lithium bank or is there a better way to charge the lithium directly?
So I'm thinking about going to a lithium battery for my stereo "house battery" replacing house Agms. I have a victron battery isolation fet. Bought the 3 battery 200amp model. I upgraded to a 160amp high output alternator. My alternator has a wire to let it know when the battery is fully charged. How does that work? Will I be ok going to a lithium battery for my house bank and keeping the AGM as the starter battery using the battery isolator? Thanks for your time.
You’re solving one of two problems. The other being too much current being drawn by the lithiums and cooking the alternator
Wow! Did not know that a loss of load would kill the alternator 😲.....
The charging voltage of the typical lithium battery is 14.6V (13.6V at rest). The equivalent voltages for a AGM, orl gel battery are 1V lower (or more). Those voltages are high enough to trigger an automatic combiner, strapping the two types together in parallel. Doesn't that mean that the lithium will constantly seek to charge the other, and does that reduce life expectancy?
Hi!!
I have a similar setup with 4 li and a lead acid start and gen batts. I’m using the 250a Balmar Tx with mc614 regulator. Will using the battery isolater allow me to still program the mc614 to get the max from the alternator? Balmar suggested adding an APM-12 alternator protector.