Had the same thing happen with a 1971 TS 50 J back in 1975 had the C shaft hard chromed , bearing ran there , case was ok . the things you learn when you are 16 years old , then the piston clip came off , stuffed the bore , and i never trashed it at all !!!!
What will happen if you do not changed the bearing other than the noise? Also how to find the right bearning? Let’s say you are working on a RD400 and you want to change all the bearings how would you go about it? I’m new to this and find your videos very interesting and informative!! Thanks!!!
Great video Dale, I was impressed by the microphone picking up what is clearly a main bearing issue. I hope the the bearing isn't also loose in the case. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, I was too, I wasn't sure when I was editing, but when I watched it on the big tv, I could hear it almost as good as in person. These electronics these days are impressive. Except my Go pro camera, it doesn't focus up close. So, I just have to work around that. Maybe one day I will pick up an SLR camera.
@@montana2strokeracer I make all of my videos with an Android phone Dale, I'm very much behind the curve in terms of electronic wizardry! I wouldn't know where to start with a DSLR.
@@retromechanicalengineer I used my android for awhile. That is probably what I should use on closeups. Cameras are complicated things, maybe when I have 500000 subs I will get a new one and learn to use it.
I hear it. It’s like an hollow metallic sound near the flywheel. My 1980 yt125 3 wheeler has that issue. Paid $100 for it, got it running and the bearing was louder than the exhaust to me.
Yeah, John it is a sound of its own, unmistakable. Sounds like you got it worth the money, so putting a little dough in it will make a nice machine. Good luck brother.
Definitely needs bearing Like I said before the bike is definitely worth putting the money into. I use All Balls #24-1072 Bearing kit Comes with the bearings & seals $60 Never had a problem with them .
Thanks for the bearing and seal source. I haven't tried them yet. But I will. I still have a back stock on all these parts so I will use them first. Yes, I agree it is worth spending the money on. The customer just wants it right. He remembers how fun it was as a youngster.
Definitely one of the most unique and interesting videos I've seen in awhile. First time I've ever seen bad bearings, never mind accurately diagnosed this way. Learned something new.
Thanks Alex, I am having trouble hearing some things too, but that I could hear. Glad it came through on the video. Thanks for spending time watching the channel.
I was really impressed by that little wireless mic, it came through much better than I thought. Especially the clunk. Thanks Don. Hope the knee is healing up well.
I think it's more common than you think. You have experience with it. So, you know the sound I'm talking about. Hard to describe but you know exactly what it is. Thanks for taking the time to watch, I appreciate it.
Hi Dale, when you put mic at bottom of rotor it sounded pretty bad. I'm sure 'in person' the rumble of worn bearings is much worse (I found long ago, around 2010? microphones pick up higher frequency engine noises much better than low frequencies) That's a points motor not electronic ignition so may be cause of miss-fire as timing goes off? Back in the 80's, DT175MX (mono-shock) was real common to need new kick-start shaft, mains, big ends and re-bore. (shaft was designed for 100 or 125, bigger motor could stress it too much with inexperienced riders kicking it) Still preferred the 175 over the 250 though which was pretty overweight and under-powered compared to the DT400mx (only 90 400's were imported into Britain, I had one) Dave would do bore while I did everything else. We could get a customer riding away in about four and a half hours after bike was picked up in shop van. My brother actually gave me a running car for doing his DT175MX in an afternoon (I had a lot of practice back then) First car I even owned that could be steered on the accelerator at 40mph !
I was surprised how good the audio was on the finished video. I couldn't hear it as good when I was editing the video, but once I watched it on the big tv, I could hear it almost like I was standing there. I was impressed by that little wireless mic. Yes, the fact that it ran down the road without a hitch, but missed at idle, got me looking really hard at the bearing. Yes, have fixed many Kickstarter shafts, they tend to spin on the splines over time and is really created by letting the kick lever slam back up. I have done 3 videos on relocating them and TIG welding. Yep, much prefer the 175 over the 250, especially these days with my old butt riding them. Sounds like you did a lot of that kind of work and could do them in short order. These days being retired I am not in a hurry to do anything, so I just getter done when it gets done. Thanks for spending time watching, I sure appreciate that and the comments.
I have the opportunity to buy a locked up 1969 Yamaha enduro 175 for $150. From the pictures, it looks like a complete bike that needs an engine rebuild, a new seat, and touched up everywhere else. I've never worked on a two stroke before, so not sure if I should pull the trigger on this one. How easy/hard are parts to find for these bikes? Great videos!
Hey Bart, those are good bikes, very simple to work on, parts....used and new are pretty easy to find. Do it....pull the trigger you will be glad you did. Makes a good project. Keep me up on your progress.
Thanks for the reply and encouragement. I don't know if I ant to go that route or not. I'm starting to get into the Honda Mini Trail line from the 60s and 70s. I'm not sure I want to "expand my horizons" that much. Thanks again.
For some reason on the Yamaha 175's i have seen the bearing loose in the case on the mag side. So it will be intereting if its the bearing itself or bearing loose in the engine case causing the play.
Yes, I have seen that also, this one however I had to press out, I show that in the next video. Most of the time I use a Loctite product for slip fit, to repair a loose bearing when installing in the case. Can't remember the number of it. But have had good luck using it.
Hi John, sounds like you're a tool hound like me. Guessing you are checking bearings today. Hope all yours are good. It is a pain to split the engine to change them. But can be fun too. I don't have any spare lights, just used the only good one I had on the Green Ct1. You can get a new replacement aftermarket bulb on Ebay for about 40.00 it is held in with clips. But it does work. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
Hi Dale. Thanks for coming back to me on the CT1B shock spring/spacer question. Most appreciated. I have pulled the clutch casing off the CT1B now. Was leaking some trans oil. So took the opportunity to open it. If you have time I have a quick question on the kick starter shaft. I noticed the starter has been creeping forward in stowed postion. The little sprag on the end that stops against the alu casing is rotating. Its on a spline type fixture. My question is. Is this supposed to move around? I am pretty sure its supposed to be a press fit and not rotate. Looks chewed up. As its been rotating I have also lost spring return. Just a confirmation. Sort really before I remedy it with either a machined in key or weld.
Hi Gareth, this is a very common problem on these bikes. I have done at least 2 videos on repairing these. Here is one, I will look for the other. czcams.com/video/ZPHN4rGnR9Y/video.html
Yes, they are, but this one is truly bad, will show that in the next video. Sometimes the sound just does not come through on the video. Thanks Robert.
Not a pleasant sound, it always in tales a lot of work, I hope yours are not bad, but if they are it's not a hard job, just not what most of us what to do at the time. Good luck with your project.
a fallow up video will be very interesting and a valuable learning experence for sure. hope its soon, this has me on the edge of my seat!
I will be measuring the new one installed, stay tuned for the next video on this, I show how bad it really is.
Had the same thing happen
with a 1971 TS 50 J back in 1975
had the C shaft hard chromed , bearing ran there , case was ok .
the things you learn when you are 16 years old , then the piston clip came off , stuffed the bore ,
and i never trashed it at all !!!!
Yes sir, experience teaches us so much. Sometimes I'm sure I could do without the lesson though.
What will happen if you do not changed the bearing other than the noise? Also how to find the right bearning? Let’s say you are working on a RD400 and you want to change all the bearings how would you go about it?
I’m new to this and find your videos very interesting and informative!!
Thanks!!!
Great video Dale, I was impressed by the microphone picking up what is clearly a main bearing issue. I hope the the bearing isn't also loose in the case.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, I was too, I wasn't sure when I was editing, but when I watched it on the big tv, I could hear it almost as good as in person. These electronics these days are impressive. Except my Go pro camera, it doesn't focus up close. So, I just have to work around that. Maybe one day I will pick up an SLR camera.
@@montana2strokeracer I make all of my videos with an Android phone Dale, I'm very much behind the curve in terms of electronic wizardry! I wouldn't know where to start with a DSLR.
@@retromechanicalengineer I used my android for awhile. That is probably what I should use on closeups. Cameras are complicated things, maybe when I have 500000 subs I will get a new one and learn to use it.
great job dale those mains are totally shot never run rete hopefully big end bearing is ok if not u can sort it four sure keep up the good work
Yeah, the mag side is toast, the clutch side is good compared to it. I am going to check clearances on the rod, it sounds smooth. Thanks Mark
I hear it. It’s like an hollow metallic sound near the flywheel. My 1980 yt125 3 wheeler has that issue. Paid $100 for it, got it running and the bearing was louder than the exhaust to me.
Yeah, John it is a sound of its own, unmistakable. Sounds like you got it worth the money, so putting a little dough in it will make a nice machine. Good luck brother.
Definitely needs bearing Like I said before the bike is definitely worth putting the money into. I use All Balls #24-1072 Bearing kit Comes with the bearings & seals $60 Never had a problem with them .
Thanks for the bearing and seal source. I haven't tried them yet. But I will. I still have a back stock on all these parts so I will use them first. Yes, I agree it is worth spending the money on. The customer just wants it right. He remembers how fun it was as a youngster.
Long time Dale... good video! Hope all is well with you!
Were you been Taylor, long time no hear. All good here, hope the same on your end.
Definitely one of the most unique and interesting videos I've seen in awhile. First time I've ever seen bad bearings, never mind accurately diagnosed this way. Learned something new.
Hey Jim, yes these are toast for sure. We're going to dive into this issue a little deeper.
Dale: I'm old and bloody near deaf and I can hear it! Good work there with the mic
Thanks Alex, I am having trouble hearing some things too, but that I could hear. Glad it came through on the video. Thanks for spending time watching the channel.
might try this measurment on a known good engine to compare,just for fun.
Yes sir, coming up.
You can definitely hear what sounds like a rattling. When you lift it up and down you can hear a clunk.
I was really impressed by that little wireless mic, it came through much better than I thought. Especially the clunk. Thanks Don. Hope the knee is healing up well.
My ct3 had the same problem, sound and all.
I think it's more common than you think. You have experience with it. So, you know the sound I'm talking about. Hard to describe but you know exactly what it is. Thanks for taking the time to watch, I appreciate it.
Will follow this with interest. Cheers.
Please do, I think you will find it interesting. Thanks Peter
Hi Dale, when you put mic at bottom of rotor it sounded pretty bad.
I'm sure 'in person' the rumble of worn bearings is much worse (I found long ago, around 2010? microphones pick up higher frequency engine noises much better than low frequencies)
That's a points motor not electronic ignition so may be cause of miss-fire as timing goes off?
Back in the 80's, DT175MX (mono-shock) was real common to need new kick-start shaft, mains, big ends and re-bore. (shaft was designed for 100 or 125, bigger motor could stress it too much with inexperienced riders kicking it)
Still preferred the 175 over the 250 though which was pretty overweight and under-powered compared to the DT400mx (only 90 400's were imported into Britain, I had one)
Dave would do bore while I did everything else.
We could get a customer riding away in about four and a half hours after bike was picked up in shop van.
My brother actually gave me a running car for doing his DT175MX in an afternoon (I had a lot of practice back then)
First car I even owned that could be steered on the accelerator at 40mph !
I was surprised how good the audio was on the finished video. I couldn't hear it as good when I was editing the video, but once I watched it on the big tv, I could hear it almost like I was standing there. I was impressed by that little wireless mic.
Yes, the fact that it ran down the road without a hitch, but missed at idle, got me looking really hard at the bearing.
Yes, have fixed many Kickstarter shafts, they tend to spin on the splines over time and is really created by letting the kick lever slam back up. I have done 3 videos on relocating them and TIG welding.
Yep, much prefer the 175 over the 250, especially these days with my old butt riding them.
Sounds like you did a lot of that kind of work and could do them in short order. These days being retired I am not in a hurry to do anything, so I just getter done when it gets done.
Thanks for spending time watching, I sure appreciate that and the comments.
I have the opportunity to buy a locked up 1969 Yamaha enduro 175 for $150. From the pictures, it looks like a complete bike that needs an engine rebuild, a new seat, and touched up everywhere else. I've never worked on a two stroke before, so not sure if I should pull the trigger on this one. How easy/hard are parts to find for these bikes?
Great videos!
Hey Bart, those are good bikes, very simple to work on, parts....used and new are pretty easy to find. Do it....pull the trigger you will be glad you did. Makes a good project. Keep me up on your progress.
Thanks for the reply and encouragement. I don't know if I ant to go that route or not. I'm starting to get into the Honda Mini Trail line from the 60s and 70s. I'm not sure I want to "expand my horizons" that much. Thanks again.
okay guys, lets get to work! LOL
For some reason on the Yamaha 175's i have seen the bearing loose in the case on the mag side. So it will be intereting if its the bearing itself or bearing loose in the engine case causing the play.
Yes, I have seen that also, this one however I had to press out, I show that in the next video. Most of the time I use a Loctite product for slip fit, to repair a loose bearing when installing in the case. Can't remember the number of it. But have had good luck using it.
I have a CT3, a nice shop with a lift like you, and a dial indicator. Guess what im doing today? BTY do you have a spare 6 volt headlight? 😊
Hi John, sounds like you're a tool hound like me. Guessing you are checking bearings today. Hope all yours are good. It is a pain to split the engine to change them. But can be fun too. I don't have any spare lights, just used the only good one I had on the Green Ct1. You can get a new replacement aftermarket bulb on Ebay for about 40.00 it is held in with clips. But it does work. Thanks for spending time with me in the shop.
Hi Dale. Thanks for coming back to me on the CT1B shock spring/spacer question. Most appreciated.
I have pulled the clutch casing off the CT1B now. Was leaking some trans oil. So took the opportunity to open it.
If you have time I have a quick question on the kick starter shaft. I noticed the starter has been creeping forward in stowed postion. The little sprag on the end that stops against the alu casing is rotating. Its on a spline type fixture. My question is. Is this supposed to move around? I am pretty sure its supposed to be a press fit and not rotate. Looks chewed up. As its been rotating I have also lost spring return.
Just a confirmation. Sort really before I remedy it with either a machined in key or weld.
Hi Gareth, this is a very common problem on these bikes. I have done at least 2 videos on repairing these. Here is one, I will look for the other.
czcams.com/video/ZPHN4rGnR9Y/video.html
czcams.com/video/Bx1tU-sekZk/video.html
czcams.com/video/QUcHABgOG8E/video.html
Dale. You are a star.🎉 Much appreciated.
@@Gareth04100 your welcome, good luck on your project
Made it, what's the gig?
think i can hear a loose sound for sure. its toast for sure!
Burned Toast!!!
My Ct2 sound just like that one. Has N O S crank new bearings. Just noisy little 2 strokes
Yes, they are, but this one is truly bad, will show that in the next video. Sometimes the sound just does not come through on the video. Thanks Robert.
Having the same problem with my Kx
Not a pleasant sound, it always in tales a lot of work, I hope yours are not bad, but if they are it's not a hard job, just not what most of us what to do at the time. Good luck with your project.
I’m trying to figure out what Yamaha bike I have, it’s around the 1970s
Could you help me out ?
Sure thing, if you have a picture send it to dsweger@bresnan.net
Here
Just checked my ct3 by wiggling the flywheel and there was no play at all
Thank you, I am sure that there should not be any. Stay tuned for the next video on this, I will show how bad it really is.