Fabric Weight : How many Grams ?
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- čas přidán 15. 01. 2020
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Sartorial Talks is the only channel on you tube with all notifications turned on. With every video you prove me why. Great job!
Thank you Krunoslav for your constant support ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS My pleasure.
Same.
Thanks, Hugo! Going to be buying my first full-canvas suit soon and have started looking at fabrics. Very helpful as always!
I’m starting a suit business this video was extremely helpful. You are a gift!
That was great. You put it out in a way that was easy for everyone to understand. Nice job. Thank you.
With great pleasure ! Hugo
Great information! I was just thinking about this very topic a few days ago. As I live just north of Washington DC where the weather gets warmer and humid, I was wondering about summer fabrics for an upcoming new suit. Thanks again and love your channel!
Thank you Randall! Happy new year to you and your family. Hugo
Well there you go. Thank you so much for that succinct explanation. What a great reference. Now it's on to your episode on super numbers.
this info is phenomenal. I learn so much in each episode. Im saving up for my first suit
Thank you my friend ! Cheers, Hugo
Have you got your suit??? I hope you are pleased with it.
Thank you Hugo for explaining fabric weights. I like 3 season fabrics and now I know what I need to look for. I enjoy your informative videos. I look forward to the next.
My pleasure Tony ! Hugo
Great information Hugo !
Great work as always Hugo! I would love to see a video specifically about stylish dressing in hot weather climates like Australia.
Good idea. We have so many subjects ahead of us !!! Happy new year, and I hope the situation will improve soon in Australia. Best, Hugo
Excellent episode!
As an Australian, I wear my suits only in winter, waistcoats sometimes in the other 3 seasons.
Yet another great video, Hugo! Beneditcite Deum!
Merci David ! Hugo
This is great information for the fabrics thank so much
I just bought a greatcoat in an Abraham Moon wool fabric at 530g! It is reassuringly heavy! Which works perfectly for the Polish winter! Cheers Hugo!
Informative as usual. Great Job
Thank you sir ! Hugo
I wear over 400g suits as three-season. Love the old-school drape!
It's totally fine, but only if you live in a country where it's not too hot. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Guys, are certain cooler fabrics, even at heavier weights usually worn only at winter, cool enough for 3 season wear?
I’m about to buy my first Made To Order suit from a brand in a different country. I love the look of it in the photos, but it is made with Fresco 3, 475 g fabric.
From my research it seems that Fresco 3 is a very cool and breathable fabric.
And when I asked the tailor if it would be ok for other seasons than just winter, he didn’t answer me directly but just replied that it is a very breathable fabric that is good for all occasions.
Do you think this suit could maybe work for other seasons because of the cool, breathable quality of the Fresco 3, or is 475 g too extreme of a weight to wear in anything but cold weather regardless of the fabric type?
The heavier fabrics just plain drape better. 230-260 grams is too light to drape well and shows a lot of rippling
Always educational thank you Hugo
Many thanks Ramiz. Hugo
It would be really nice to have a video about wearing and implementing a pocket square into your style. Keep up doing this amazing content!
Thanks so much for the information so I can acquire the best options for the upcoming seasons
Very well explained, nice work👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you Uros ! And happy new year. Hugo
Here in the Dominican Republic 🇩🇴 is always summer, this is very useful when selecting fabric. That suit is very elegant, Hugo!
Thank you my friend ! Hugo
Excellent information my dear Hugo , we always learn from you and dear Sonya, thanks a lot for your effort, and great outfit as usual))), love to you from Cairo,
Thank you Nader. Happy new year. Hugo & Sonya
You always give expert advice
Many thanks Ernest. Hugo
Cher Monsieur Jacomet! Thank You for this very interesting and informative series of videos! In my humble opinion, commissioning a new suit leaves the customer with virtually limitless opportunities. During this process, the question might arise whether to opt for an additional pair of trousers, which will probably double the life of the suit. To me, this might even be a perfect opportunity to order one pair in a lighter fabric for warmer days, and another pair in a more heavy fabric for colder climates - given the Mill provides the chosen pattern in a variation of weights, which in many times will be the case. Considering the latest achievements regarding the development of modern fabrics, the result could be somewhere very near to a truly four-seasonal suit! Veuillez agréer, Monsieur, l'expression de mes salutations distinguées!
Excellent
👏👏👏👏
specialized topics we need
thanks for your videos are excellent
Thank you Ivan ! Hugo
you helped me really. thank you sir
Good evening Hugo I hope that this finds you well; well what can I say the perfect end to my day; watching my youngest daughter Violet celebrate her 7th birthday and then rounded off with a episode of sartorial talks, absolute perfection, thank you sir kind regards Ryan.
Haha, you're always so kind Ryan. Cheers and happy birthday to Violet! Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS thank you sir for the kind words.
Thank You Hugo Summer is Hard for Me I Live in Florida USA 😀👍🏼
I can imagine. But on the other hand, you are a lucky man to live there! Cheers, Hugo
Been wonderng why i haven’t seen any uploads from Sartorial talks....truth is that the algorithm does not like me, turned notifications on and am watching all the missed uploads 🤩🥵
Haha, but now you have a few episodes ahead of you! Cheers, Hugo
Cheers Hugo!
I must say I wore my 270g (+ 65g lining) suit in 10C cloudy weather and it felt cold, while being surprisingly comfortable in 25C+ and sunny weather.
Maybe it's me and I just don't like cold weather.
Best wishes
It depends on the weaving and other factors, but yes you sound like a hot climate gentleman ! Cheers my friend, Hugo
La chaîne en anglais est vraiment très agréable et elle apporte un bon complément à la française c'est génial bravo
Merci Mathis ! Hugo
Hugo, what a valuable presentation, appreciated.
Myself, run cold, so guess then would agree with the British on fabric weight. By the way, myself prefer lower numbers, enjoy the feeling of wearing sturdy suits, is that also per chance British?
Cheers!
Thank you for this information. Very Useful. Also important to analyse how "heat sensitive" you are and how much "cold intolerant" you are before you make such decisions. Personally I would prefer to the heavier fabric as temperatures below 15 degrees celcius is cold for me and I can tolerate 38 degrees without a sweat!
Great Video as always. However, there seem to be a few exceptions from the rule, especially when it comes to frescos or high twist hopsack fabrics: heavy as chain mail, yet extremely cool and breathable.
You are perfectly right my friend, but as I said in the video I just wanted here to give the big picture for wool. Cheers! Hugo
Hi Hugo - wonderful video; really appreciate these deep dives. Had a question regarding fabrics thats perhaps a little tangential. With all these wools, I know its a bit looked down upon to mix types especially with synthetics but I wanted to know if you were aware of any fabric manufacturers that where doing a stretch wool on the premium fabrics end especially in the 3-season fabric variety. Thanks!
Drago is doing a lot of natural stretch fabrics (100% natural no elastane). Ask your tailor. Cheers, Hugo
Great video Hugo. I Would like to know your opinion on low rise or mid rise pants? Also your opinion on pleated pants? I got a pair of pleated pants and really like them because they add some extra flare but I don't want to make the mistake of buying just pleats and regret the decision in the future if the style becomes outdated. How do you juggle your choice on trousers when there are so many styles available?
I'm rebooting my wardrobe and planning first purchase - Navy suit. I run very warm and want something breathable that won't look out of place if warm in the colder months the way linen would. My plan was a heavier Fresco fabric (around 290-300g) in half or maybe full canvas, half lined. I'm told that because the fabric is so breathable, I can opt for a heavier version for a better drape.
Does this fabric choice/weight make sense given my purpose?
Talking about the fabrics, I live in a place where it goes to as hot as 30 degree c, normal is around a pleasant 22 to 26. I have a wool 1 on six db jacket, my dad's I wore it and it felt like it actually protected me rather than making me feel hot, it protected me from the heat, (I was inside the home) And for the first minute it felt a little cool, then it became normal, just felt like a light blanket covering me.
I would imagine, how linen, or even seersucker would feel. God knows, or you know.
edit: I am wearing this and writing now, same feel.
I can't understand this very well. Linen gives the same feeling. Cheers, Hugo
Hello there. Could you please give detailed advise about drycleaning wool suits and and mixed wool fabrics with silk, cotton, linen etc. What’s the very best drcleaning solvents. Can one use the “P” solvent when “F” solvent is labelled on the garment? Finally, what are the alternatives to using solvents?
Very deatiled explanation, Goood keep going......
Fantastic content as usual. Thanku. Fabulous shirt and collar. Wonder where it from!!!
Dear Vas, this shirt is 10 year old and is from Marc Guyot in Paris. Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS Thanku Hugo.
Which one is more important weight or weave? For example high twist fabric is considered summer fabric but it weight around 280-300gr.
Good starting point, but there are other factors as well. #1 Time spent outside vs inside. I travel extensively, to all climates. Most of that time I'm indoors, in a cab in a plane, etc. So while it was -20F in Canada in Feb, my longest time in the elements wast 2 min as we walked across the street. In general, winter specific suits are too heavy for me indoors where I spend 99% of the time. Same in really hot. Travel to Dubai or Singapore, the higher end the establishment the colder the air conditioning. But as a traveler, my needs are different from people staying in one place. That's not to say I don't have different weight clothing, I do, but not at the extreme end. An overcoat is better than a heavy suit, even in Sweden. If I traveled to Dubai more, a summer suit would be worth it as I hot.
Dear Roger, I said this video about weight was just a starting point aiming to provide only the big picture. Of course there are dozens of other factors to consider. The first one being the way the fabric is woven (open "plain" weave, 2 by 1, 2 by 2 etc). Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Yes, I know you know it. My comments was more for others just starting out. I did not mean to offend.
Have been binge watching all your videos they are greatly appreciated.
Would love to see a video on caring for bespoke suits and shirts properly, including closet storage. Perhaps a second video as well for traveling and packing suits.
Hi Hugo. Great video as always. I just had a sports jacket made for me with Harris Tweed cloth. Just out of curiosity, would you know what the typical weight range for Harris Tweed is? Thanks.
Usually around 400g
Dear Mr. Hugo Jacomet, I love your content. Just a few weeks ago, I commissioned my first bespoke Tuxedo. I was very particular in all the styling details and materials. I wanted to choose the fabric from the well known mills like Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil etc. But, the materials I wanted were only available in other lesser known companies so, I went with the latter company. Am I wrong in wanting to choose from famous mills? what's your take on this?
My take is that you are paying much more because of the name! A mill like Drago for example is producing fantastic fabrics, but as their name is less known, the price of the fabric is much more interesting. Best! Hugo
Wonderful Hugo. May I ask what type of shoulder are you wearing here? Is it roped? Thank you
It's a Cifonelli shoulder called "la cigarette". No rope but very padded. Cheers, Hugo
I think suit fabric should be modernised, say hybrid wool & elastane to give some stretch and technical qualities..imo
Hugo, why you and Sonia don't produce similar videos on shoes and suits for women? Being a woman, I'd love to see and hear your opinion on women's classic shoes and get to know some brands to look at closely. ;)
I have a blazer in Drago Rugby Flannel. Miracle cloth.
Bravo, happy to know and thank you for your reply ! Hugo
Those are some immense lapels
Hi Hugo what weight would u recommend from drago business pants n suits especially in Singapore 🇸🇬 weather kindly enlighten
I just realized this guy has a notch lapel and a peak lapel on one suit? I've NEVER seen this is this like a thing?
The one on his right is also peaked. The lighting and crease made it looked notched.
@@yussofross1417 Ahhhh it is wow i really thought it was notched thank you!!!
Can someone please tell me the name of the track used in the intro? Thank you
Living in Montreal, I just cant wear wool tailored pants during the winter because salty snow sludge gets all over my pants. thick, washable cotton corduroy is the way to go
I know winters are very rough in Montreal. Wonderful city by the way. Cheers, Hugo
Greetings Hugo and Sonya. Please share your thoughts on Mohair-Wool blends with 'fresco weave' at ~300g for summer use (idea is that open weave fabric, while heavier, breathes better). Good or bad idea?
Excellent idea. Open weave is the best construction for a summer fabric because it is breathable. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Best regards Hugo. Many thanks for your great content!
Hugo, is there a relationship between super numbers and durability of fabric?
Yes and no. It depends how you use it. Look at the episode dedicated to this subject on this channel. Cheers! Hugo
Degree Farenheit - Degree Celcius conversion:
Take the F-Value and subtract 32, take the result and divide by 9, take the result and multiply by 5, Final result is Value in C.
Example: 104 F, 104 minus 32 = 82, 82 divided by 9 = 8, 8 multiplied by 5 = 40 // 104 F equal 40 C
Or, Google it... Cheers, Hugo
i can only find elaborated video's about wool suits, but what is the general opinion about mixed fabrics, like wool/linnen/silk ?
Mixed fabrics are fantastic, but mostly used for odd jackets except wool/silk/cashmere which can be also used for trousers. The wool/linen/silk is extremely agreeable to wear. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS it is indeed, i bought a lazio blue 3 piece suit with that blend at suitsupply (thx for the tip by the way) and they had indeed also a linnen cashmere white suit but i thouth it to be a bit too much 😁 Merci pour t'a reponse Hugo, Salutation de Belgique
Off topic question, but I'm wondering what types of vests/waistcoats are acceptable to wear with a single breasted tuxedo. I see vests with collars..... would be be appropriate to wear? If so, should you look to match the collar type? Just curious as to the thought process/rules for such a suit. Thank you
Dear Sheldon, this is indeed off topic. There are no fixed rules for this (even if a cummerbund is the most common choice under a tuxedo). Usually the vests under a tuxedo are low-cut, single breasted without lapels. But a double breasted vest in dove grey for example with peak lapels is also perfectly acceptable. Hope it helps. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS It does help. Thank you or your input!
Hi, I just bought a tweed suit which I am planning to wear in Thailand. Should I be worry about the weather there?
Depends on the kind of tweed
How is fabric weight related to super numbers? To be more specific; can, for example, a super 180s be 120 grams per m2 as wel as 200 grams per m2? Or do all (or some) supernumbers have standard weights?
Generally a finer thread yields a lighter fabric. Beware of going too light and having fine fabrics wear out in 5 years. In many opinions Super 150s around 240 grams aren’t sufficient for regular wear. They wear out
I enjoy your videos Mr. Jacomet. I bought black dress pants by Joseph Abboud; on the inside is a label with Reda Super 110's on it. It is a very fine light wool. Can you help? They were $170 marked down to $10.00 dollars!
Dear Alan, Reda is a great fabric mill located in Biella (Piemonte Italy) the cradle of fine Italian fabrics. Cheers, Hugo
Thant you Hugo.
I will get married soon, so I would be very interested to know everything about wedding suits. For example: is a dinner jacket appropriate?
Maybe you should start with this on our blog : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2015/04/21/what-should-the-groom-wear-tuxedo-lounge-morning-or-nehru-suit/
Cheers, Hugo
I personally plan to attend ceremony (during the day) in morning suit and in the evening during wedding party in the black tie ensamble. And congratulations, by the way!
Dear Hugo
I am from Tirana Albania. I would like to know where can I buy your book. Thank you
I published 3 books, which one do you wish to acquire ? Hugo
i kike his personality and communication style
How do you determine the fabric grams for a Super 120 or Super 150 suit?
Dear Stephen, the Super numbers don't say anything about the weight (they describe the diameter of the wool fibre). Each fabric has a weight written on its technical sticker. Cheers, Hugo
I have a polo coat that is 850 gram fox brothers fabric. I still freeze in Northern Europe 😒
Thanks for the video!
How many grams are we usually talking when we speak about either linen or more specifically tweed?
Linen is considered a summer fabric not because of its weight but because it is breathable by nature. European linens usually weight around 250 gr (9oz) while British ones are a little heavier (10/12 oz = 300 gr). Clasic tweed is by nature a winter fabric which weights around 330 gr but you can now find "light tweed" around 280gr which can be worn almost all year round (depending where you live of course). Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS thanks a lot! ❤️
@@SARTORIALTALKS, apparently the online calculator(s) are incorrect as convert 300GSM to 8.85 ounces a yard. This seems to explain why was unable to find heavier fabrics. Meaning, a simple nugget of information has great worth. Why are all six or so calculators incorrect?
Maybe instead, need to find what GSM provides the best drape and crease for flannel. At least now have a GSM guide for fabrics, appreciated.
What about a linen cloth in 320g? Is it still a winter cloth?
Not it's not because Linen is breathable by nature. 320gr is probably an Irish linen. Cheers, Hugo
Are there any good fabrics below 210g/square meter? I live in the Philippines, hot all year round.
Jon, cotton or linen suits are better for tropical climates. If you want wool below 210gsm you will end up spending a lot
I live in Saudi Arabia, and anything above 230G is a killer for me.
Epsoid about knitwear please ))))))
Can I make a sports jacket out of 600 g cloth or is that too heavy of a cloth to make a sports jacket?
Too heavy my friend. Aim for 450gr. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks hugo
I make bespoke historical suits - 600g that is historical autumn / winter weight.
If you want it for 3 seasons use Sp/W/A - then Hugo is correct 450g is perfect.
Is the manner of how you wear your tie an expression of sprezzatura?
Reason I ask is a majority of men take great effort to hide the narrow portion of the necktie.
I noticed in a lot of your videos that this part is exposed, almost as if to say "I don't care if it shows."
Well actually I show it on purpose. I wrote on the subject here : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2019/07/21/neckwear-and-nonchalance/
Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS oh, ok! Thanks!
@@SARTORIALTALKS So, sprezzatura then, no? Appearing non-chalant but actually taking steps to "appear" non-chalant?
Why left and right lapel design not same ?
They are the same my friend. Just probably an optical illusion ! Cheers, Hugo
It's the buttonhole on the left: a few times in the video it looks like that lapel has two notches, while at the same the right lapel catches the light oddly and looks notch rather than peak.
800g overcoat would wt more than 10kg.
It's a workout 💪 overcoat..
can you explain me the math? I don't understand how
@@muneebnaveed7938 i am 182cm, 82kg, for my jacket you need 3.5 m2 fabrics, for overcoat 5m2. 5x800=4kg + warm lining
By my math 800 grams/square meter times 12,5 square meters is 10 kg.
Subtracting the weight of any lining and canvas, it still means we're talking about a fairly large size here...
Dear friends, sorry to come late in the discussion but here is your answer : for an overcoat you'll need approx 4 meters, so a "normal" overcoat with a wool of 500 gr (GSM) would weight approx 2 kilos (4.4 lbs) + lining so let's say 2,4 kilos. Hope it helps. Cheers, Hugo
300 grams and up for durability. No suit will be cool in the heat of summer
*I MAKE BESPOKE HISTORICAL SUITS* mostly in the English style - I consider 750g, to be winter 600g to be 2 seasons, 450g to be 3 seasons and below 400g is summer
Also - the higher the "Super" the shorter the life of your suit - I would never make anything in above 120 as I expect my suits to last a minimum of 20 years.
Where do you stand on fresco wools?
❤👍✌🇵🇰👏
Merci ! Hugo
All you really ned to know is that summer fabrics and, some are not !
@ 5:35 - "I'm not going to one it because there are too many"... Then why bother with a video? Just do an audio !
Serious question, are buildings in Europe not generally kept at roughly the same temperature all year?