Few thing worked as well as your hack on my 2001 Lexus...Had all the problems including stalling out at 60 miles per hour, limp mode, not shifting into high gear... a whole slew of engine codes showing the engine was running lean. Your hack worked beautifully...Thx
3 years two replacements and finally just driving around with a cheap code reader plugged in to reset the code every couple of miles. This 20 min hack is the best! Had PO325 so tie into the black wire. Thanks for the video!!
I cut the wire and joined it to the other but my overdrive would not work after that at all. So i saw another thread where a guy just joined the 2 wires without cutting any wires. So reconnected the cut wire and did what he said and overdrive came back. My car would drive for 10 minutes prior to any wire cutting before i got the check engine light and lost my o/d. I originally had a bank 2 sensor open circuit code. P0330 I believe. Update. Drove around about 40 Miles and no light and o/d works fine. Now running premium fuel as others mentioned as well..
So i tried this last night and it didnt work so i tried it the other way around instead of leaving the black wire unplugged i left the clear wire unplugged and it worked transmission shifts everytime i stop, thanks so much for this video!!!!!!!!!!!!😊
What code were you getting originally. I got code p0330 I used a clip to bring them together. The light went away for two days. Now I have both codes. Do you think I did it wrong or or have to replace sensors?
You da man! Thanks bro! Easy fix! I’ve been dealing with this issue for a couple months. Been playing process of elimination. But sure enough, that fixed it. The wife is happy and that’s all that matters 😆😎
I finally got around to trying this today on my 2002 Toyota HIghlander (232k miles) after months of dealing with this “limp mode” issue, stopping and turning the car off and back on again to allow the engine to go into overdrive. Estimate to replace knock sensors was astronomical given the age and estimated value of my car. Cleared the codes and drove the car for 30 minutes after the fix (around 25 miles) and no check engine light or any issues, so I’m thinking this has resolve my problem. Thanks for the great video! Hoping to get a few more miles out of the old Highlander!
Great hack! But I had to splice both wires to the black wire. It depends which knock sensor is out. So if the white doesn't work splice it to the black. And my transmission now shifts into fourth at 60 mph
This worked perfectly...very nice...I just wrapped the wires together with electrical tape and it worked like a charm. Better than spending all day tearing the top of the engine off and spending hundreds of dollars on on parts that really don't do much anyway. And it made me somewhat angry that I couldn't make my own choice whether to replace the part...limp mode my ass!!!!
Thanks for the awesome hack, did my 99 RX 300 this morning and its perfect, I knew it could be done but I was going to go under the hood...sooo much easier your way my clear wire is white btw but it's exactly the same as the 03.
Hi genus, I just have 1 code: P0325 , I did opposite from your video: I cut the clear wire and soldered to black . After driving about 3 miles, the engine check was ON, and the code now is P0330. Please advise. I really appreciated
@@ddhmoto44 I replaced both knock sensors last Saturday and the engine light came on last night. Day of was running fine, But the day after car started jerking and fighting to accelerate you didn’t experience anything like that ??
Well 2001 RX 300 I had knock sensor bank 2 go bad with the same code. Did what you did I rest the code and has not came back on thanks for the hack it worked. Now if the other sensors gets bad I’ll have no choice but to have them both changed out. Mine is a 2001 rx300 with 99,xxxx miles on it. I’d figure from what I’m seeing I have another 100 thousand to go.
This worked great about 100k ago. Now my Lexus which my son is driving, just said it's going into limp mode. The second knock sensor went bad. No choice but to replace them now if we want.
This hack worked yall. Did this hack around 11am. Drove around for a couple hours during which I made some stops which involved turning truck off/ on and drove it to emissions and passed. Thank you for posting this video
Not a good idea unless you burn premium fuel always. Otherwise, some level of pre-detonation will very likely exponentially wear out the engine. The knock sensor is a microphone that listens to your engine and makes real-time adjustments to the ignition timing and fuel air mixture to maximize fuel burn for optimal fuel economy and emissions. It keeps the engine balanced and an out of balanced engine pollutes more and wears out much faster. I recently replaced both knock sensors on a 2002 RX300 and it is not that big of a deal for a mechanic. Just buy premium knock Japanese sensors, not from China. They are junk. During the test drive I has able to register 28 mpg on a 19 mile run, much better than the 16 mpg it was getting with the engine running in "fail-safe" mode with the bad knock sensor. Compression test on all cylinders showed 192-198 psi at 223,000 miles. I expect the engine to make 500,000 if properly maintained. Seriously, please think about long term implications of your hack.
Thanks for the comment Big Oak. I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. 1. How does burning premium fuel prevent the pre-detonation issue? 2. How does one know if if the sensor is bad or if you have a really serious issue? My RX does not make any knocking sounds, so to prevent it from going into OD I had to keep disconnecting the battery. For the age of the car and the value, it doesn't seem frugal to chase knock sensors at 163,000+ miles. Unless, of course you are a really good mechanic with a lot of extra time. After reading your post I am considering burning premium fuel now, but would like to understand a bit more. thank you
Having knock sensor and vvti sensor issues and im assuming one is having to do with the other and im honestly not which exactly is causing my problem. Replaced my vvti solenoid and my odd cylinder sensor which was supposed to be my issue but now it’s giving me a knock sensor code. Honestly worried I’ve done some damage, but hoping I haven’t. And 198 psi at 220k is crazy.
Question; you cut the black and the clear wires and say to splice them into the clear and the black, did you mean splice the clear and the black together with the white wire? I might be the only one confused, thanks for the video. Have exact same problem with same car.
One year later my bank 1 sensor went bad and tripped both codes so I went to Toyota and bought one sensor and the 2 plug into one pig tail, unplugged the 2 factory sensors (down below the throttle bodies) and plugged in the new wiring harness (pigtail) mounted the new Toyota (after market sensors are much cheaper but DO NOT WORK! same with pig tail) on top next to valve cover pinching it between a small bracket and valve cover (a solid ground and no movement is a must) plugged sensor to wire marked 1 and it is back to normal 😀 no intake removal and only one $200.00 sensor needed. This also works on other cars but you need to do the wiring research.
Mine just got into this limp mode as it stopped going into my 4th gear and revz high up at 60mph. Damned if it ain't a knock sensor. Still have always had my Trac light and VSC on but thats never effected overdrive
@@MrMpm3001 , I was suspecting that when I started to run regular, that could be part of the issue. When I put premium in, the intervals where this Eng light comes on, becomes more gapped and I get more time until I have to reset. The highway is when it comes on at a consistent time interval as the computer comes out of test mode much quicker. I am wondering though, if before I do the splice, should I still change that Knock sensor first?
@@phoenixmistertwo8815 no. The purpose of the splice is so you don’t have to remove sensors. The 1mzfe is notorious for knock sensor issues. The premium is probably reducing detonation but premium isn’t required. If p0330 splice black to white. If p0325 splice white to black.
you still have the code popping up? i want to do that hack with same code i have now. So if that sensor is cut from bank 2 location and put it on good sensor..would that bank go bad?
Did mine this morning, I heated the white wire and stripped it back didn't cut it pushed a small screw driver in the middle of it and made a hole cut the black wire stripped it split it in half twisted both halves pushed one half through the hole in the white wire twisted the two black halves tightly together and back around the exposed white wire nice and tight then electrical tape ...works perfect 😃 cut white wire and attach to black for P0325
@@aladinsarsipeus yes! 6k miles later no problems, I do run good gas to ensure no detonation. Remember cut white wire and attach computer side wire to stripped back. not cut, black wire. Examine his photo and verify wire locations and problem solved, until the second sensor goes that is.
I tried the hack and the check engine and vsc lights did not go out. Should I reverse the process, and leave the clear wire loose and splice in the black wire? 9.23.2021
first wire it as in the video. then pull the negative terminal on the battery, let it sit for 20 minutes, then reconnect the negative terminal. Drive the car and see if the code comes back.
Dear sir, my lexux RX300 shift fine when cold but starts to slips when warm after driving about 10-15km. What could this be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
you need to make sure you have correct level of atf. Slipping issue is all about fluid level. Sometimes it show correct level on your atf dipstick but the reality is not when the transmission filter came off inside transmission. So when you run the engine the fluid retains in the filter then the fluid in the system is not enough when running and it can cause slipping.
I had tried splicing them together without soldering them and keep getting codes from the knock sensor 2. Do you think not soldering them caused codes to keep coming up?
No ! As long as you have a good connection you should be fine..are you saying you only had code for sensor 1 and now have code for sensor 2 and no longer sensor1? if so reload and watch the video again and double check your work. Sounds like you made a good connection to sensor 1 but lost the connection to sensor 2
Been dealing with this for a year ( 2000) avalon) v6.. the wires were both clear.. still get 330 and 325 code so both sensors are messed up... going to buy a good sensor and mount 2 the block.. and wire back to ECM.. pins 27 and 28.. just to pass smog.. WML.
This should work fine on your camero ... find the plug to the wiring harness under the hood do it one way, if both codes pull up 325 and 3:30 you did it backwards switch them and you should be fine ... you've got a 50-50 chance if you don't know which wire is which bank you might just hit it the first time
Yes..did mine this morning ..cut white wire and attach to black. Great hack I already know but I was headed under the hood..thanks to this guys research it was truly a 15 min job.mine is a 1999 same as 03 so all RX 300s ...drove 120 miles today 110 degrees out, no pinging, no light, and mine was coming on 5 miles after reset.
Have any update on this almost a year later? I have the P0325 as well. I heard that one basically never goes bad and mechanic wants $1200 to replace it. Was thinking about doing this method but haven't seen many people with sensor #1 as the bad one. Wonder if the engine could actually be knocking and it isn't just a bad sensor....
This could be done much clearer. Why did you refer to the clear as white? Can’t you go back and fix this with caption or audio edit? More importantly, there is ZERO need to cut all the wires! Cut the black, tape off top black end, strip 1/4” from bottom black, cut 1/4” sheathing away from CLEAR (not white). Don’t cut the clear wire in half. Wrap black exposed wire around clear exposed. Tape and your done.
@@oscarvali3150 You're hosed. The hack will only work if you have one good working knock sensor. If getting P0330, cut black and connect the remaining wire (attached to the ECU plastic connector that you just unplugged) to the clear wire. I was getting P0330 (by far the most common) and just stripped a section of the insulation of the clear wire off then wrapped and soldered my black wire to the bare section of the clear wire. Wrap end of black wire - the one coming from sensor/in from firewall - with tape so it doesn't connect with anything. If getting P0325, cut clear and connect the remaining wire (attached to the ECU plastic connector) to the black wire. Wrap end of clear wire with tape coming from sensor/in from firewall so it doesn't connect with anything. If you are getting BOTH codes, you HAVE to get BOTH knock sensors and harness replaced. Just an FYI, I work on cars a lot but wouldn't do this job. If I need work, I have an ASE certified guy come to my house on his days off and pay him in cash. Use Original OEM Denso parts ONLY! I mean it. All off brand knock sensors suck and you will be very sorry when they don't work. You will also have to change the harness - don't skip this or any of these other parts that you will need for your 2001 to 2003 RX300: (2) Knock Sensors: 89615-12090 (1) Sensor Wire: 82219-07010 (1) Bypass Hose: 16261-20010 (2) Hose Clamps: 90467-28007 (1) Surge Tank Gasket: 17176-62030 (1) Passenger Right Intake Manifold Gasket: 17177-20020 (1) Driver Left Intake Manifold Gasket: 17178-20020 Check with your lexus parts dealer if these are the right parts for your RX. Also check with your local Toyota parts dealer as you can sometimes (not always) save some bucks buying from them. After done, don't forget to clear codes with an Innova 3150RS OBDII scanner. This scanner is perfect for the RX and reads many more codes than others - including SRS. About $150 and worth every penny. Good luck!
Few thing worked as well as your hack on my 2001 Lexus...Had all the problems including stalling out at 60 miles per hour, limp mode, not shifting into high gear... a whole slew of engine codes showing the engine was running lean. Your hack worked beautifully...Thx
3 years two replacements and finally just driving around with a cheap code reader plugged in to reset the code every couple of miles. This 20 min hack is the best! Had PO325 so tie into the black wire. Thanks for the video!!
I don't understand tie into. He showed white and black do you cut then both then connect them?? Or tell me whst?????
is there any bad side effects now? or has it been normal since
I cut the wire and joined it to the other but my overdrive would not work after that at all. So i saw another thread where a guy just joined the 2 wires without cutting any wires. So reconnected the cut wire and did what he said and overdrive came back. My car would drive for 10 minutes prior to any wire cutting before i got the check engine light and lost my o/d. I originally had a bank 2 sensor open circuit code. P0330 I believe.
Update. Drove around about 40 Miles and no light and o/d works fine. Now running premium fuel as others mentioned as well..
Black wire for me is sensor 2 and clea is sensor 1. I had to splice clear into the black. Thanks for this saved me so much.
So i tried this last night and it didnt work so i tried it the other way around instead of leaving the black wire unplugged i left the clear wire unplugged and it worked transmission shifts everytime i stop, thanks so much for this video!!!!!!!!!!!!😊
Same happened to me !
What code were you getting originally. I got code p0330 I used a clip to bring them together. The light went away for two days. Now I have both codes. Do you think I did it wrong or or have to replace sensors?
1999 RX300.
Thank you it worked! Your video is the most detailed (the connector) among the 5 I've watched.
Thanks so much for the video. CZcamsrs saving the day yet again!!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you! This saved me a ton of money, especially after just replacing the ac compressor and condenser in my 01 RX300 literally last week!
Dud this fix it??
@Mike Smith yes it did, it got my car out of limp mode
@@jkirksey101 and? is there any bad side effects now? or has it been normal since
Worked perfectly and saved me a lot of money and a ton of work. Great video!
Did you have to cut the wires to put them together or something else?,?????
You da man! Thanks bro! Easy fix! I’ve been dealing with this issue for a couple months. Been playing process of elimination. But sure enough, that fixed it. The wife is happy and that’s all that matters 😆😎
Did you have to cut the wires to put them together or something else I need help making my wife happy please help????????
is there any bad side effects now? or has it been normal since
I finally got around to trying this today on my 2002 Toyota HIghlander (232k miles) after months of dealing with this “limp mode” issue, stopping and turning the car off and back on again to allow the engine to go into overdrive. Estimate to replace knock sensors was astronomical given the age and estimated value of my car. Cleared the codes and drove the car for 30 minutes after the fix (around 25 miles) and no check engine light or any issues, so I’m thinking this has resolve my problem. Thanks for the great video! Hoping to get a few more miles out of the old Highlander!
Great hack 2005 lexus rx300. 300 miles later still going strong
Great hack! But I had to splice both wires to the black wire. It depends which knock sensor is out. So if the white doesn't work splice it to the black. And my transmission now shifts into fourth at 60 mph
This worked perfectly...very nice...I just wrapped the wires together with electrical tape and it worked like a charm. Better than spending all day tearing the top of the engine off and spending hundreds of dollars on on parts that really don't do much anyway. And it made me somewhat angry that I couldn't make my own choice whether to replace the part...limp mode my ass!!!!
Did you have tobcut the wires to put them together with electric tape???
is there any bad side effects now? or has it been normal since
Just did this on my 2003 highlander and I think it fixed it! Thank you!
Thanks for the awesome hack, did my 99 RX 300 this morning and its perfect, I knew it could be done but I was going to go under the hood...sooo much easier your way my clear wire is white btw but it's exactly the same as the 03.
Eeez21
Would this work for a 2001 Lexus es300 with the same motor as the rx300?
@@richardsharma283 yes it will.
We’re your guys cars jerking and fighting to accelerate as well ??
@@thejacquezfamily408 no, just cel but no overdrive with light on.
Just did it. Worked! Check engine light is on but it shifts!
Hi genus,
I just have 1 code: P0325 , I did opposite from your video: I cut the clear wire and soldered to black .
After driving about 3 miles, the engine check was ON, and the code now is P0330.
Please advise.
I really appreciated
Fixed my 02 RX 300 knock sensor with your hack! Great job on the video and thank you so much. Saved me a bunch of time and money.
Did it affected your running lights?
@@pioneeringpeppers nope. And its still running good.
We’re your cars jerking and fighting to accelerate ??
@@thejacquezfamily408 no it just wouldn't shift past a certain gear. Basically in limp mode. This mode does work tho.
@@ddhmoto44 I replaced both knock sensors last Saturday and the engine light came on last night. Day of was running fine, But the day after car started jerking and fighting to accelerate you didn’t experience anything like that ??
It worked. Thanks bro. Only the black and clear wire. I think you referred to the clear wire as white but it's the clear wire he means. Thanks
is there any bad side effects now? or has it been normal since
Well 2001 RX 300 I had knock sensor bank 2 go bad with the same code. Did what you did I rest the code and has not came back on thanks for the hack it worked. Now if the other sensors gets bad I’ll have no choice but to have them both changed out.
Mine is a 2001 rx300 with 99,xxxx miles on it. I’d figure from what I’m seeing I have another 100 thousand to go.
Saved my ass big time chief drove 4 hours from home fine then the knocks sensor took a dump did this on the side of the road 👍🏼
This worked great about 100k ago. Now my Lexus which my son is driving, just said it's going into limp mode. The second knock sensor went bad. No choice but to replace them now if we want.
Just did this to 03 highlander. Need to pass emissions and hopefully this works out. I'll keep all posted .
This hack worked yall. Did this hack around 11am. Drove around for a couple hours during which I made some stops which involved turning truck off/ on and drove it to emissions and passed. Thank you for posting this video
Ok so I’m having this same problem with my 2000 Lexus rx300 are some symptoms jerking and fighting to accelerate ??
thanks boss I think the mechanic was asking for $700 for the repair lol ..
awww damn I got a 2002 and the wire colors are different .. I cut the black that the 1st one so it was misfiring ..
The repair probably is $700 to do this is a cheap fix to get you back on the road. If you plan to sell the car you should disclose this 👌
is there any bad side effects now? or has it been normal since
I did it, but STILL have the engine light on and 4k RPMs at 55 mph or so. Now what??
Did you fix it?
No...still not. Going to reverse the wires again and see if that works. Smog is past due now too.@@bruceprofitsTradesFutures
Not a good idea unless you burn premium fuel always. Otherwise, some level of pre-detonation will very likely exponentially wear out the engine. The knock sensor is a microphone that listens to your engine and makes real-time adjustments to the ignition timing and fuel air mixture to maximize fuel burn for optimal fuel economy and emissions. It keeps the engine balanced and an out of balanced engine pollutes more and wears out much faster. I recently replaced both knock sensors on a 2002 RX300 and it is not that big of a deal for a mechanic. Just buy premium knock Japanese sensors, not from China. They are junk. During the test drive I has able to register 28 mpg on a 19 mile run, much better than the 16 mpg it was getting with the engine running in "fail-safe" mode with the bad knock sensor. Compression test on all cylinders showed 192-198 psi at 223,000 miles. I expect the engine to make 500,000 if properly maintained. Seriously, please think about long term implications of your hack.
Thanks for the comment Big Oak. I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. 1. How does burning premium fuel prevent the pre-detonation issue? 2. How does one know if if the sensor is bad or if you have a really serious issue? My RX does not make any knocking sounds, so to prevent it from going into OD I had to keep disconnecting the battery. For the age of the car and the value, it doesn't seem frugal to chase knock sensors at 163,000+ miles. Unless, of course you are a really good mechanic with a lot of extra time. After reading your post I am considering burning premium fuel now, but would like to understand a bit more. thank you
Having knock sensor and vvti sensor issues and im assuming one is having to do with the other and im honestly not which exactly is causing my problem. Replaced my vvti solenoid and my odd cylinder sensor which was supposed to be my issue but now it’s giving me a knock sensor code. Honestly worried I’ve done some damage, but hoping I haven’t. And 198 psi at 220k is crazy.
You are the friggin' MAN!
It worked. Thanks man!!
Did it fix the not going into overdrive?
After doing this I noticed now my running lights aren't work now when I turn on my headlights.
I didn't mess with anything at all but the sensor wires
Question; you cut the black and the clear wires and say to splice them into the clear and the black, did you mean splice the clear and the black together with the white wire? I might be the only one confused, thanks for the video. Have exact same problem with same car.
Which was it? Same prob on my end.
I don't understand you say separating the pig tail pm the wire harness makes the glove box come out.,???????? Please help
good job genius! for a land cruiser prado 1GRFE 4.0 do you know the location of the pins on the ECM?
What about not shifting into overdrive but check engine light is not on
I tried this and now my chexk engine light flashes? Had p0330 same as you and did wires the same too
Did you figure it out?
@@bruceprofitsTradesFutures yah I probably did it wrong my bad!
If my other knock sensor is bad (#1) i'd assume I splice the opposite way?
What is the knock sensor part called when you go to order
One year later my bank 1 sensor went bad and tripped both codes so I went to Toyota and bought one sensor and the 2 plug into one pig tail, unplugged the 2 factory sensors (down below the throttle bodies) and plugged in the new wiring harness (pigtail) mounted the new Toyota (after market sensors are much cheaper but DO NOT WORK! same with pig tail) on top next to valve cover pinching it between a small bracket and valve cover (a solid ground and no movement is a must) plugged sensor to wire marked 1 and it is back to normal 😀 no intake removal and only one $200.00 sensor needed. This also works on other cars but you need to do the wiring research.
This is also a common problem with 2001/2007 Toyota highlander.
What if it doesn't work? then does the wiring need to be changed as well as the KS'?
Would this the the same process for a similar model year Toyota Avalon with the same motor? And hello would be appreciated
Wouldn't it be better to splice at the harness that leads to the knock sensors right by the air snorkel tube. I dislike cutting ECU plug wires.
Will doing this impact smog check? Having an O2 bank1 sensor1 issue that the Catalyst monitor won't recycle.
I have this code along with a p0500 (speed sensor) amd a ABS light on.
Do you think this would solve it ?
Mine just got into this limp mode as it stopped going into my 4th gear and revz high up at 60mph. Damned if it ain't a knock sensor.
Still have always had my Trac light and VSC on but thats never effected overdrive
Just do the splice(if you haven’t) it will resolve issue. Run premium in the summer for added protection against knock.
@@MrMpm3001 , I was suspecting that when I started to run regular, that could be part of the issue. When I put premium in, the intervals where this Eng light comes on, becomes more gapped and I get more time until I have to reset. The highway is when it comes on at a consistent time interval as the computer comes out of test mode much quicker. I am wondering though, if before I do the splice, should I still change that Knock sensor first?
@@phoenixmistertwo8815 no. The purpose of the splice is so you don’t have to remove sensors. The 1mzfe is notorious for knock sensor issues. The premium is probably reducing detonation but premium isn’t required. If p0330 splice black to white. If p0325 splice white to black.
@@MrMpm3001 , 10-4. I will give it a try and make sure I have the correct code for the splicing. Thanks for the advice.
@@phoenixmistertwo8815 no problem. Wish you luck.
Thanks for the video. How is the repair holding up? My RX300 is having the same issue.
Still working
@@JRobling mine too. Did this 3 years ago.
@@torrianfrazier901fricken awesome. I just started getting P0330 and I’m going to do this. Holy crap this is great.
Nice video but more confused as I have p0330, which of the cable is for back 1 and Wich one is bank 2. Thank you
Which one was it?
If p0330 splice black to white. If p0325 splice white to black.
Mine in a 99 an it mostly happens in single digit temperatures
Great video
What wires do i splice if i want to use the other sensor?
Just switch them, instead of splicing into the white/clear as in the video, do the opposite cord (black one) and leave the white one unattached
Does it work for es300
Bump this post because I have the same issue and want to know!
you still have the code popping up? i want to do that hack with same code i have now. So if that sensor is cut from bank 2 location and put it on good sensor..would that bank go bad?
Hey great video
Works good ✌️✌️✌️
do i have to solder or can i just use an electrical connector for all of them
Did mine this morning, I heated the white wire and stripped it back didn't cut it pushed a small screw driver in the middle of it and made a hole cut the black wire stripped it split it in half twisted both halves pushed one half through the hole in the white wire twisted the two black halves tightly together and back around the exposed white wire nice and tight then electrical tape ...works perfect 😃 cut white wire and attach to black for P0325
@@007heatingandair i have 325 code
is it really that easy?
splice white wire into the black one?
@@aladinsarsipeus yes! 6k miles later no problems, I do run good gas to ensure no detonation. Remember cut white wire and attach computer side wire to stripped back. not cut, black wire. Examine his photo and verify wire locations and problem solved, until the second sensor goes that is.
Still going good today? I have P0325 as well and mechanic wants $1200 to replace. I also hope it's not actually knocking...
This worked for about a year or so and bank 2 is gone. So replacing with oem Denso from dealer. Don't get the aftermarket online ebay fakes
Would this work on a 2001 model?
If p0330 splice black to white. If p0325 splice white to black.
Would this work on 2000 Avalon?
What code did you have ? Is the clear wire the bank sensor 2 and the black one is bank 1?
Yes
I tried the hack and the check engine and vsc lights did not go out. Should I reverse the process, and leave the clear wire loose and splice in the black wire? 9.23.2021
first wire it as in the video. then pull the negative terminal on the battery, let it sit for 20 minutes, then reconnect the negative terminal. Drive the car and see if the code comes back.
Dear sir, my lexux RX300 shift fine when cold but starts to slips when warm after driving about 10-15km. What could this be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Same here! Did you found the problem 🙏
you need to make sure you have correct level of atf. Slipping issue is all about fluid level. Sometimes it show correct level on your atf dipstick but the reality is not when the transmission filter came off inside transmission. So when you run the engine the fluid retains in the filter then the fluid in the system is not enough when running and it can cause slipping.
Over time using only 1knock sensor will damage engine
I had tried splicing them together without soldering them and keep getting codes from the knock sensor 2. Do you think not soldering them caused codes to keep coming up?
No ! As long as you have a good connection you should be fine..are you saying you only had code for sensor 1 and now have code for sensor 2 and no longer sensor1? if so reload and watch the video again and double check your work. Sounds like you made a good connection to sensor 1 but lost the connection to sensor 2
So, you have the white (clearish) wire from the engine side going to both the white (clearish) wire and the black wire on the ECU?
Been dealing with this for a year ( 2000) avalon) v6.. the wires were both clear.. still get 330 and 325 code so both sensors are messed up... going to buy a good sensor and mount 2 the block.. and wire back to ECM.. pins 27 and 28.. just to pass smog.. WML.
Hi,this apply for lexus rx300 1999
Hi can I do this for my Lexus rx300 1999
What was a code 👨💻
Anyone know how to do this on a 2002 camaro
This should work fine on your camero ... find the plug to the wiring harness under the hood do it one way, if both codes pull up 325 and 3:30 you did it backwards switch them and you should be fine ... you've got a 50-50 chance if you don't know which wire is which bank you might just hit it the first time
Will this work with the P0325 code?
Yes..did mine this morning ..cut white wire and attach to black. Great hack I already know but I was headed under the hood..thanks to this guys research it was truly a 15 min job.mine is a 1999 same as 03 so all RX 300s ...drove 120 miles today 110 degrees out, no pinging, no light, and mine was coming on 5 miles after reset.
It is working for po325 code too
Have any update on this almost a year later? I have the P0325 as well. I heard that one basically never goes bad and mechanic wants $1200 to replace it. Was thinking about doing this method but haven't seen many people with sensor #1 as the bad one. Wonder if the engine could actually be knocking and it isn't just a bad sensor....
@@matthewlswanson I sold the car! But it’s stayed off. Tanks for the follow up bro.
@@matthewlswanson What did you end up doing?
This could be done much clearer. Why did you refer to the clear as white? Can’t you go back and fix this with caption or audio edit? More importantly, there is ZERO need to cut all the wires! Cut the black, tape off top black end, strip 1/4” from bottom black, cut 1/4” sheathing away from CLEAR (not white). Don’t cut the clear wire in half. Wrap black exposed wire around clear exposed. Tape and your done.
I HAVE TWO CODES 330,325 WHAT KIND WIRES I NEED CUT AND CONNECT.THANK YOU
@@oscarvali3150 You're hosed. The hack will only work if you have one good working knock sensor. If getting P0330, cut black and connect the remaining wire (attached to the ECU plastic connector that you just unplugged) to the clear wire. I was getting P0330 (by far the most common) and just stripped a section of the insulation of the clear wire off then wrapped and soldered my black wire to the bare section of the clear wire. Wrap end of black wire - the one coming from sensor/in from firewall - with tape so it doesn't connect with anything. If getting P0325, cut clear and connect the remaining wire (attached to the ECU plastic connector) to the black wire. Wrap end of clear wire with tape coming from sensor/in from firewall so it doesn't connect with anything.
If you are getting BOTH codes, you HAVE to get BOTH knock sensors and harness replaced. Just an FYI, I work on cars a lot but wouldn't do this job. If I need work, I have an ASE certified guy come to my house on his days off and pay him in cash. Use Original OEM Denso parts ONLY! I mean it. All off brand knock sensors suck and you will be very sorry when they don't work. You will also have to change the harness - don't skip this or any of these other parts that you will need for your 2001 to 2003 RX300:
(2) Knock Sensors: 89615-12090
(1) Sensor Wire: 82219-07010
(1) Bypass Hose: 16261-20010
(2) Hose Clamps: 90467-28007
(1) Surge Tank Gasket: 17176-62030
(1) Passenger Right Intake Manifold Gasket: 17177-20020
(1) Driver Left Intake Manifold Gasket: 17178-20020
Check with your lexus parts dealer if these are the right parts for your RX. Also check with your local Toyota parts dealer as you can sometimes (not always) save some bucks buying from them. After done, don't forget to clear codes with an Innova 3150RS OBDII scanner. This scanner is perfect for the RX and reads many more codes than others - including SRS. About $150 and worth every penny. Good luck!