Thanks Shawn! Built my first battery, thanks to your very thorough instructions. I viewed this video several times until i could understand the concept. Wish you great abundance for your selfless service to the community.
Really helpful! with out your videos it would of been allot harder to build my 20s/20p 72v/55ah pack, no bms just a weekly balance check up with the hobby charger, thank Shawn.
Jose- I have filled your order but the shipping algorythmn charged you $7 too much for shipping. Can I have your PayPal account so I can refund?. Send to shawnwiththewind@gmail.com
Very straight forward! My BMS came for 4S came with 1 black and 4 red sensor wires. Assuming that should work exactly the same way, but perhaps more physically correct since black goes to black and 4 reds go to 4 pos cells.
@@shawname2 Hi Shawn, yes on the book. Like it! Jehu's group buy 2 didn't go so well, so I had to buy new batteries, ebay. Just put the pack together per your instructions. Voltage tests confirm I have built spot on. Thanks so much for your help! Next is wiring the BMS and the power leads.
I wish there was another word used other than "sensor" wire. The wires monitor and provide a way to balance the individual cells. A sensor has leads connected to a device that displays, stores, monitor, or some dose some function with the signal created by sensor. The batteries are not in that case a sensor. I would call the battery pack's small wires equalization wires. That is their purpose ultimately.
Good point Snowy, I agree, there are no sensors involved. The only way that it can justified being called a sensor wire is because it is sensing the batteries voltage.
Shawn McCarty We all use different language sometimes. My culture practically makes it an art form.lol. That sensor is called a volt meter and measures potential differences with wires called leads and in units of volts. Some newbies are confused when we say balancing the batteries or balance charging. Really it is equalization of the cells to the same potentials and that can occur on charging or discharging cycle by the wire leads. Ergo calling them a name related to their purpose helps the novice. Great build by the way.
Thank you Snowy. As I think about it I did coin the term "sensor wires" some time ago and have always called them that without thought. I appreciate accuracy in language and agree that calling them "equalization wires" would be more accurate. I'll change terms!
ingenious! the blocks + magnets + plates do add weight over soldering. I may try this but I need to know lots of things, what to buy, which controller, etc. to make an ebike. Are these details in your book? Also I'm concerned nut/bolts may come lose because of bike vibration? How to prevent that? Of course you should inspect all nuts on a bike frequently, so I assume now you must also inspect the battery nuts frequently. Which is ok as long as you remember to do it.
The bolts are nylon and the nuts don't work loose. My $3 ebook is about how to build a battery and how to do the math - but not about how to build an ebike. But building an ebike is wasy- just get a kit from Amazon or ebay. I built one yesterday morning. The kits have everything including instructions. For a first ebike they are great!
Hi Shawn Do you have any advice for me to reduce the size of the battery? If I use these cells I will end with a huge battery, I wish you would advise me what cells use and how and in what order to arrange them ...... and again thank you very much
Tamir, If your goal is to build the smallest battery pack possible you need to use cells with a very high energy density. The Panasonic 3400mah cell is a good example. Also you would want to spot weld the battery together, as it takes up to 20% less space than using rebuildable batterblocs. In order for me to advise you on how to configure the cells, you need to tell me what your final voltage and amp hours are and your maximum current draw.
Thanks! It's been a long process of refinement. To answer your question, it depends. For a normal sub 20 amp hour draw ebike battery 12 gauge will work. For say a 30 amp hour draw battery, I would use 10 gauge. I use multi stranded flexible silicone wire when the wire has to bend tightly, and automotive wire when it doesn't. When in doubt I use this calculator: www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html It's good to shoot for a voltage drop of under 3% when under the heaviest load the battery will face. Good luck!
I like the icharger series best for quality. Cheaper ones can be found at Hobby King. A 10S hobby charger will manage a 10S battery. Have you seen my video on "How to build a safe and better lithium battery without a bms"?
+Shawn McCarty Ok great. I have seen that video, very interesting. It definitely seems like a more reliable way to manage a battery. Your videos have been a big help thus far!
If I'm creating a 36V (10S) battery, how would you recommend monitoring the cell voltages? As far as I can tell, all the cell checkers/loggers only go up to 8S. Would I have to break the battery into two smaller packs, or does someone actually make a 10S voltage checker? Thanks!
if you balace the 12 battery pack with a 6cell balancer, i presume you connecting each wire to two batteries in serie. will the two batteries not be unbalanced ?
No that is not how it is done- you will melt the sensor wires. You charge the pack in two halves. My $3 ebook explains in detail. www.batteryblocs.com/groceries/the-hobbyists-guide/
The amps are measured by multiplying the amp rating of the batteries you are using by the number of batteries in each parallel group. So if you are using 10 amp batteries and have a 8P cell parallel group you have an 80 amp battery.
They need to be magnetic. And Cheap. The plates are so massive and the distances so short that being made of the most conductive metals is not necessary. So they are made of zinc plated 1010 steel.
What cells are you using Tamir? Are they 2600mah, 3000mah? The amperage in the cells determines how many you need to reach the 15 amp hour that you are seeking.
So if you start with the 2600 mah cells, they are 2.6 amp hours each. You want 15 amp hours. 15/2.6 is 5.7, make it 6 cells wired in parallel. Now you need to know how many bunches of 6P cells you need to make. The nominal voltage of the cells is 3.6 volts, so 48/3.6 is 13.3. So you would wire either 13 or 14 groups of 6 cells to each other in series. Shawn
Thanks Shawn! Built my first battery, thanks to your very thorough instructions. I viewed this video several times until i could understand the concept. Wish you great abundance for your selfless service to the community.
Thanks Louis. Glad my little video was of service.
Thank you for the information video Shawn, this is one of the best laid out video,s showing how to wire up the sensor/balance wires.
This should get a lot more views. Very nice system!
Thanks JG, I appreciate that.
Really helpful! with out your videos it would of been allot harder to build my 20s/20p 72v/55ah pack, no bms just a weekly balance check up with the hobby charger, thank Shawn.
Your welcome, glad you found it useful.
You are awsome Im learning a lot from yours videos
Jose- I have filled your order but the shipping algorythmn charged you $7 too much for shipping. Can I have your PayPal account so I can refund?. Send to shawnwiththewind@gmail.com
Sweet. very neat and tidy battery pack.
Very straight forward! My BMS came for 4S came with 1 black and 4 red sensor wires. Assuming that should work exactly the same way, but perhaps more physically correct since black goes to black and 4 reds go to 4 pos cells.
Hi Mike- you just got my book, right? Yes, 4S is wired in the same way. You have it right!
@@shawname2 Hi Shawn, yes on the book. Like it! Jehu's group buy 2 didn't go so well, so I had to buy new batteries, ebay. Just put the pack together per your instructions. Voltage tests confirm I have built spot on. Thanks so much for your help! Next is wiring the BMS and the power leads.
Crystal clear ! Thank you !
very detail video thank u.
Thank you Mike, and thanks for subscribing.
I wish there was another word used other than "sensor" wire. The wires monitor and provide a way to balance the individual cells. A sensor has leads connected to a device that displays, stores, monitor, or some dose some function with the signal created by sensor. The batteries are not in that case a sensor. I would call the battery pack's small wires equalization wires. That is their purpose ultimately.
Good point Snowy, I agree, there are no sensors involved. The only way that it can justified being called a sensor wire is because it is sensing the batteries voltage.
Shawn McCarty We all use different language sometimes. My culture practically makes it an art form.lol. That sensor is called a volt meter and measures potential differences with wires called leads and in units of volts. Some newbies are confused when we say balancing the batteries or balance charging. Really it is equalization of the cells to the same potentials and that can occur on charging or discharging cycle by the wire leads. Ergo calling them a name related to their purpose helps the novice. Great build by the way.
Thank you Snowy. As I think about it I did coin the term "sensor wires" some time ago and have always called them that without thought. I appreciate accuracy in language and agree that calling them "equalization wires" would be more accurate. I'll change terms!
ingenious! the blocks + magnets + plates do add weight over soldering.
I may try this but I need to know lots of things, what to buy, which controller, etc. to make an ebike. Are these details in your book? Also I'm concerned nut/bolts may come lose because of bike vibration? How to prevent that? Of course you should inspect all nuts on a bike frequently, so I assume now you must also inspect the battery nuts frequently. Which is ok as long as you remember to do it.
The bolts are nylon and the nuts don't work loose. My $3 ebook is about how to build a battery and how to do the math - but not about how to build an ebike. But building an ebike is wasy- just get a kit from Amazon or ebay. I built one yesterday morning. The kits have everything including instructions. For a first ebike they are great!
Will the red & black blocks still snap together if I ran my battery groups in parallel and not series? Great video, Great!
Sure. Turn em upside down and line up black with black and red with red for parallel wiring.
what if I have a 12s bms with one black wire on the right side and the rest are red on the left? How do i wire that?
Nice work mate.
what is the make and model of the battery charger you using?
That's a Hobby King 200touch.
www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46767__Turnigy_Neutron_200W_DC_Touch_Screen_Balance_Charger_LiHV_Capable.html
+Shawn McCarty thanks mate
That's a Hobby King 200touch.
www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46767__Turnigy_Neutron_200W_DC_Touch_Screen_Balance_Charger_LiHV_Capable.html
Hi where can I buy the battery holders what you are making the battery from?
www.batteryblocs.com
very nice pack.where i can get this plastic pack please reply me Thanks
www.batteryblocs.com
Hi Shawn Do you have any advice for me to reduce the size of the battery? If I use these cells I will end with a huge battery, I wish you would advise me what cells use and how and in what order to arrange them ...... and again thank you very much
Tamir,
If your goal is to build the smallest battery pack possible you need to use cells with a very high energy density. The Panasonic 3400mah cell is a good example. Also you would want to spot weld the battery together, as it takes up to 20% less space than using rebuildable batterblocs.
In order for me to advise you on how to configure the cells, you need to tell me what your final voltage and amp hours are and your maximum current draw.
Okay, I have to think what I really need. Thanks for the help
oh cool thanks
Great videos! I love your BatteryBlocks too, it's ingenious. What size of wire did you use for your power leads?
Thanks! It's been a long process of refinement.
To answer your question, it depends. For a normal sub 20 amp hour draw ebike battery 12 gauge will work. For say a 30 amp hour draw battery, I would use 10 gauge. I use multi stranded flexible silicone wire when the wire has to bend tightly, and automotive wire when it doesn't.
When in doubt I use this calculator:
www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html
It's good to shoot for a voltage drop of under 3% when under the heaviest load the battery will face.
Good luck!
Awesome, thanks for the great info. I appreciate the help!
Would you happen to recommend a good hobby charger?
I like the icharger series best for quality. Cheaper ones can be found at Hobby King. A 10S hobby charger will manage a 10S battery. Have you seen my video on "How to build a safe and better lithium battery without a bms"?
+Shawn McCarty Ok great. I have seen that video, very interesting. It definitely seems like a more reliable way to manage a battery. Your videos have been a big help thus far!
If I'm creating a 36V (10S) battery, how would you recommend monitoring the cell voltages? As far as I can tell, all the cell checkers/loggers only go up to 8S. Would I have to break the battery into two smaller packs, or does someone actually make a 10S voltage checker? Thanks!
if you balace the 12 battery pack with a 6cell balancer, i presume you connecting each wire to two batteries in serie. will the two batteries not be unbalanced ?
No that is not how it is done- you will melt the sensor wires. You charge the pack in two halves. My $3 ebook explains in detail.
www.batteryblocs.com/groceries/the-hobbyists-guide/
it sucks that I can't find anywhere to buy those blocks they look cool
They are here:
www.batteryblocs.com
Man I've got to do a better job marketing- those are made by me and are sold at www.batteryblocs.com
Are you using cast neodymium magnets?
Cast? They are nickel plated.
nice bet haw you increas the amps, i need a pack 72 volt and 15 kw amps
The amps are measured by multiplying the amp rating of the batteries you are using by the number of batteries in each parallel group. So if you are using 10 amp batteries and have a 8P cell parallel group you have an 80 amp battery.
Can I ask what material the metal plates are made of? Are they nickel plates?
They need to be magnetic. And Cheap. The plates are so massive and the distances so short that being made of the most conductive metals is not necessary. So they are made of zinc plated 1010 steel.
Thanks once again!
What material is this sheet metal made of?
Zinc plated .03 gauge steel. Zinc is about as conductive as nickel.
can you tell me to make battery pack 72 volt greetings
Make a 72v battery pack
Hi Dear Shawn please please please show us how to build a battery of 48V 15aph
What cells are you using Tamir? Are they 2600mah, 3000mah? The amperage in the cells determines how many you need to reach the 15 amp hour that you are seeking.
First of all thanks for the quick response .. I think to use the 2600m but I'd appreciate any advice to give me
So if you start with the 2600 mah cells, they are 2.6 amp hours each. You want 15 amp hours. 15/2.6 is 5.7, make it 6 cells wired in parallel.
Now you need to know how many bunches of 6P cells you need to make. The nominal voltage of the cells is 3.6 volts, so 48/3.6 is 13.3.
So you would wire either 13 or 14 groups of 6 cells to each other in series.
Shawn
Ok Shawn thanks for the information
Could you suggest a china made bms charger that has uses a chip that knowd how to charge a lithium pack?
Sure. All BMS's are programmed to know how to charge lithium packs. Go to Aliexpress and search for BMS. You will find many.
Shawn McCarty Thanks for your prompt advice. Appreciate it. I wish you good business with your invention. Very impressed.Cheers!
how mush is a kit
you can find them at www.batteryblocs.com
@Breeze Not that I know of? What is happening when you go there?