Russian PX625 batteries are still available for $8 online. Additionally, a substitute Wein zinc / air 1.35v batteries are available for about $10 on Amazon. This is what I am using on my FTN. Lastly, a vintage ECG109 diode can be easily spliced into the meter circuit by removing the top cover. This will reduce the voltage of a common 1.5 v battery to the correct 1.35v for accurate meter readings. Instructions how and where to do this can be found on CZcams. Congratulations on your beautiful camera!
I think the flash cync speed is 125 th sec which is better than the F and F2 Also the mirror rises beforehand on the self timer which is handy to reduce vibration. They came with an excellent Nikkor F2 50 mm lens. I treasure my FTN and 40 years after I bought it s/h the thing is as new. Nice to see appreciation of a superb camera.
My favorite Nikkormat is the FT2 because it's fully compatible with the pre-AI Nikkor lenses that I like to use with these older cameras; with the newer FT3 you must use stop down metering since it was designed for AI lenses. Also, the FT2 has a split image prism focusing screen, while the older FTN has either a split image or the less desirable, to my mind, microprism focusing screen. While you can get an FTN with the split image focusing screen, that's hard to tell if you buy online. A fully functioning one of these will still probably need light seals replaced.
I have 7 Nikkormat FTN and only 1 has the split image screen . It's a parts camera so I will change the screen to my favorite one . I have 7 because they came free with lenses I was after . So far the mirror bumpers were all I needed to replace . I made my own .
I have an FTN with the micro prism circle which I prefer to the split version having used an Exa 500 with a similar one previously. The split screen goes dark at times which is off-putting. It is a personal thing as both my F3 and my old Canon A1 I have had converted to plain micro prism centre circle.
@jeremyrichards8327 yes once the light drops like around f8 aperture is black circle time . If you adjust your view angle it sometimes helps. I'll use zone focusing if it gets too bad . But I find I don't have to wear classes with the split prism.
I concur. I have and F and an F2, and the FT2 fits beautifully with them. It has a readily available 1.5 battery and a hot shoe, while taking all of the pre-AI lenses, plus all of the later lenses that were pre-non-AI compatible. This is a wonderful workhorse camera that is a hell of a lot of fun to use!. Plus the price is about the same as the FTN's on E-Bay.
Nikkormat FTN 135 film . The batteries are expensive. My new choice for replacement of this Nikkormat would be Nikkormat FT3 . It takes modern batteries and can use newer ai and ais as well as af lenses manual focus and the Non ai original first F mount lenses . But the old lenses need stop down metering . It's fully functional without batteries. Batteries only run the meters .
When I created this overview I was using a Soligor spot meter and the zone system . If you search very recent videos in the last few weeks I used the in camera ttl light meter .
The shutter is on the bodies lens mount. The ISO settings are underneath the lens mount . And the aperture settings are on the lens . There is a sequence to mounting the lens . It has to be at 5.6 then fit the meter pin into the prong on the lens . Fasten the lens the cycle the aperture ring fully to the right then to the left . This syncs your lens to the meter .
so that nobody needs to cry: even if nikon decided to name it differently for the US market, the correct (japanese) pronunciation is nikkormat instead of neikkormat ;-) most of the rest of the world (!) pronounces the name reasonably correctly. people there are open-minded enough to deal with other languages.
I don't recall hiring a director. Hahaha. All my videos are unscripted and raw . I'm not afraid of what people think . I am me, and I'm not here for fame . So this brings me to ask . Why are you handing out this advice ? Please feel free to not watch my videos. Because they seem to offend you oh gatekeeper of the platforms. Wrong channel for you . We don't need to hear you tell us about it . Hahaha
Russian PX625 batteries are still available for $8 online. Additionally, a substitute Wein zinc / air 1.35v batteries are available for about $10 on Amazon. This is what I am using on my FTN. Lastly, a vintage ECG109 diode can be easily spliced into the meter circuit by removing the top cover. This will reduce the voltage of a common 1.5 v battery to the correct 1.35v for accurate meter readings. Instructions how and where to do this can be found on CZcams. Congratulations on your beautiful camera!
Thank you so much for this information.
I think the flash cync speed is 125 th sec which is better than the F and F2
Also the mirror rises beforehand on the self timer which is handy to reduce vibration.
They came with an excellent Nikkor F2 50 mm lens.
I treasure my FTN and 40 years after I bought it s/h the thing is as new.
Nice to see appreciation of a superb camera.
Thank you . Yes it's 1/125 flash sync and also the mirror up does not cost a frame like the F . Good flash sync for that period .
Thanks again for sharing your story.. great to hear & watch the various camera models... cheers from Australia 😀
More to come . There is a huge surprise coming in a week or two . There will also be an unboxing of a donation that has many item in the box .
Tough cameras. I have two of them.
Yes definitely built to last .
My favorite Nikkormat is the FT2 because it's fully compatible with the pre-AI Nikkor lenses that I like to use with these older cameras; with the newer FT3 you must use stop down metering since it was designed for AI lenses. Also, the FT2 has a split image prism focusing screen, while the older FTN has either a split image or the less desirable, to my mind, microprism focusing screen. While you can get an FTN with the split image focusing screen, that's hard to tell if you buy online. A fully functioning one of these will still probably need light seals replaced.
I have 7 Nikkormat FTN and only 1 has the split image screen . It's a parts camera so I will change the screen to my favorite one . I have 7 because they came free with lenses I was after . So far the mirror bumpers were all I needed to replace . I made my own .
I have an FTN with the micro prism circle which I prefer to the split version having used an Exa 500 with a similar one previously.
The split screen goes dark at times which is off-putting.
It is a personal thing as both my F3 and my old Canon A1 I have had converted to plain micro prism centre circle.
@jeremyrichards8327 yes once the light drops like around f8 aperture is black circle time . If you adjust your view angle it sometimes helps. I'll use zone focusing if it gets too bad . But I find I don't have to wear classes with the split prism.
I concur. I have and F and an F2, and the FT2 fits beautifully with them. It has a readily available 1.5 battery and a hot shoe, while taking all of the pre-AI lenses, plus all of the later lenses that were pre-non-AI compatible. This is a wonderful workhorse camera that is a hell of a lot of fun to use!. Plus the price is about the same as the FTN's on E-Bay.
@jeffirish3402 yes it's a very good camera .
What is the model or size of the roll?
Nikkormat FTN 135 film . The batteries are expensive. My new choice for replacement of this Nikkormat would be Nikkormat FT3 . It takes modern batteries and can use newer ai and ais as well as af lenses manual focus and the Non ai original first F mount lenses . But the old lenses need stop down metering . It's fully functional without batteries. Batteries only run the meters .
How does the exposure settings work ?
When I created this overview I was using a Soligor spot meter and the zone system . If you search very recent videos in the last few weeks I used the in camera ttl light meter .
The shutter is on the bodies lens mount. The ISO settings are underneath the lens mount . And the aperture settings are on the lens . There is a sequence to mounting the lens . It has to be at 5.6 then fit the meter pin into the prong on the lens . Fasten the lens the cycle the aperture ring fully to the right then to the left . This syncs your lens to the meter .
so that nobody needs to cry: even if nikon decided to name it
differently for the US market, the correct (japanese) pronunciation is
nikkormat instead of neikkormat ;-) most of the rest of the world (!)
pronounces the name reasonably correctly. people there are open-minded
enough to deal with other languages.
The best way to clear muddy water is to let it sit and leave it alone .
@@daveruskphotography speech is silver, but silence is golden
“When in Rome…”
Yes thank you .
so that's the reason you gave a speech?
Next time rehearse before you make a video.
I don't recall hiring a director. Hahaha. All my videos are unscripted and raw . I'm not afraid of what people think . I am me, and I'm not here for fame . So this brings me to ask . Why are you handing out this advice ? Please feel free to not watch my videos. Because they seem to offend you oh gatekeeper of the platforms. Wrong channel for you . We don't need to hear you tell us about it . Hahaha
@@daveruskphotography This video was super helpful for me! Thank you. Ignore the trolls.
@michaelrice2993 thank you