Had some concerns about my emissions smog pump bull crap and your the only person with the 1500vn that talks about it, the carburetor vacuum line was my worry but good deal thanks
Why would condensation be blowing into my air intake/filter from the EGR hose things? I have the tick....and tracking things down, found my air box full of moisture after a ride.
Wish you were in Ohio, I love my 04 1500 classic, I know it's going to need an overhaul one of these days and I would love to know how to do it. Been learning a lot about these vaulcan's from your channel. Looking to get another one as a project bike.
Great Video David. I loaned my son my bike (01 drifter vn1500fi) and he changed the oil as a favor too me but he overfilled it and I drove it not knowing. Now it stalls and I've drained and can't get it to stop stalling out and fouling. Any thoughts? Would it be the crankcase breather? How would I get to it to fix it? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I think you've got the emissions thing backward. If it's like other Kawasakis, there are reed valves in the head that allow air from the air box into be 'injected' (sucked really) into the exhaust to help 'burn off' more of the harmful emissions. So, clean air goes from the airbox through the hoses and vacuum switching mechanism to the heads, not the other way around.
I hope this comment finds you Dave. You video certainly took me down some other avenues on the Kawasaki motor. I was certain the HLA's were the noise problem but I'll also look at the other things you mentioned . Any links for timing chain adjustment extenders??? Thanks, Big Bill
Hi do you know anything about 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 having few issues I connected cooling fan wire's to battery fan came on. wanting to put toggle switch to make fan come on manually.. Plus have issues with right handlebar switches not starting motor
When you get a chance can you be a little more specific about getting rid of the emissions thing. While I have my motor out I will get rid of mine to. It’s a 1999 classic have an oil leak in the top backside running on top the pipes.figured it’s the rocker box
thanks your video helped...I have a 2003 Vulcan classic...I changed the right tensioner fine but the left has the air flow crossover preventing access to right tensioner ...I cannot figure out how to remove the air cross flow ...any ideas ?
I had to replace air crossover as mine, was broke,, you need to remove all parts connected to crossover on both sides including carburetor,,, think i had to remove intake manifold as well but it can be done,,, take your time
I got a 91 Vulcan 1500 and am trying to figure out we’re all the hoses vacuum ect go I got the block off plates like you have in video I’m just confused on we’re they all go
Hey David! this is Mark great video! I have a 2002 kawasaki Vulcan classic 1500 and I was wondering if it's normal for the bike to clunk during shifting up or down I just got it a week ago and this is my first experience with something like that occurring, it's got under 24k on the clock. my previous bike was an old kawasaki kz400 from the late 70' and shifting gears was quiet and smooth. Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
Hey David great video. I got a question I have a 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic with 17000 miles. When at idle and you rev up the engine the back fender, license plate, baggage bar vibrate rigorously. When I'm riding and use engine brake the rear all vibrates. When you pull in the clutch the vibration goes away. I believe when I shift the rear vibrates and looking at it today the whole bike vibrates slightly at idle. I checked the pipes they are tight except the lower pipe on the l curve am able to move it back and forth. Not sure if something is missing their. I can tighten the bolts at the bracket and up top and it still moves.
I have a1999 vulcan classic 1500 and it's making a noise on the right side of engine and I was wondering if you could help me with any suggestions as what to check on it
I have a 2007 Vulcan Classic 1600. It had some chain slap. Which is fixed . O cranked it , it started just fine . I got on it rode it down the road about a mile to the gas station. Killed it got off went inside was back within 5 min. When i went to start it again it sounded like the starter was dragging. Then it started making these clicking sounds . Ok so i replaced the battery , the starter solenoid , checked all the fuses, but it still will not start it acts like it at first then back to the clicking ....... Any ideas?
Look at my video, Head oil leak diagnosis,, shows where filter is, I point it out, doesn't show the actual filter but where they are, 2 each head,, filters are brass material a little bigger than pencil erasor
If my chain has been slapping the tube and worn a hole through the tube, will that cause a Misfire like running symptom? all spark plugs are firing but it sounds like its misfiring.
Thanks for the advice David. I know It's strange about the oil,there's no oil on the bike that i can see. I was thinking maybe he pissed somebody off. Who knows. Chuck
For the heck of it try pulling the drain plug just to see what comes out, Now you could rebuild that engine, buy a used engine or sell it for parts and use the money for a different bike. there are used engines on E=Bay and you could get an idea what new and used parts are going for, By the way Chuck, what part of the world do you live, I'm here in Tennessee
Hi David thanks for the advice. I'm in Snohomish WA. 3o mi N. of Seattle. If I can't find a reasonably priced motor( $1800 bucks for good one.) I may sell the bike for parts. If you need parts(its a 98 1500)It has Vance&Hines pipes they look pretty rust free. Bike has no marks not dropped or layed down. I haven't checked the oil yet. I was thinking of checking the oil filter for two gaskets. I did this once. Thanks again.
Try checking oil strainer, It's on the left lower side of the motor near the rear, left side if sitting on the bike, Remove large engine cover and on the side of the engine near the bottom just under the gearbox for the driveshaft, The Strainer cover is black, round, a little bigger than a quarter with hex bolt head about 16mm, strainer is about 4 inches long and there will be a spring behind it. if there is any real engine damage there should be a lot of metal shards covering the screen strainer. A little trash is normal. A good place to look and only takes a couple minutes to check
i have a Kawasaki 2000 1500 nomad can you show hoe to stop a oil leak coming from valve or head really can tell if valve or head leaking. please help I love my bike. SAD MAN
First of great video very well explained ,i'm a retired mecanic that at one time worked for a motorcycle dealer i'm used whit old type motorcycle like your 50's harley with crank style i've oned a fue different byke's im my yunger years like bsa triump mainely i just bought a 2003 vulcan classic so i dont know what is a normal sound to it but i feel a strange buzing vibration in the handelbars and footrest when i'm coasting in 3rd gear at 30 mph imwondering if a should investigate in opening the krankcase or is that vibration normal it feals like a bushing that is laking lubrication it vibrate fos a fue secons then it disapears for a fue more then comes back but is mostly present loking the here from you louis
I dont know, I know the bearing in the gearbox on the side of the engine that drives the drive shaft sometimes goes out. Guess if it was me I would ride it a little more and see what happens. Sorry I wasn''t more help
If you didnt know there is a oil strainer you can check, its on the drive shaft side of engine, remove chrome side cover and its sort of below the bevil gear assembly on the side of engine near bottom, looks like a bolt about the size of a quarter and when you remove it it has a screen about 4 inches long.
Thank's for the info i'l check it out on the next oil change PS what do you think about ading a magnet in the strainer to pick up steel particles,when i worked as a automatic transmission specialist they were always present in the oil pan.
Hey David, I don't know if you're still responding to this video but I was wondering...when you remove those exhaust recirculation parts and put those block-off plates on, is there any difference whatsoever in how the bike will run, better or no difference?? Thanks!! Don
Don, my Vulcan Classic has the block-offs and no performance difference. What did happen was my deceleration backfire with the Vance & Hines went away.
I also have the 2003 vulcan classic 1500. I need to do work on it but the main thing is a problem with the kick stand. The whole for the bolt that holds it on is getting worn out. Causing the spring to fall off. Currently I'm using zip ties to hold it up. Short of welding and drilling the whole out again, what would you recommend?
Hi David, enjoying the videos. I am about to embark on removing an engine on 1997 vulcan 1500 classic to replace rocker cover gaskets and anything else i find leaking oil. My question: did you have to remove the gas tank from the bike or just the fuel hoses etc?? thank you, alex gonzales
Would you leave these filters out for the valve lifers When you reassemble the engine ? Is thinking that is a good idea if we change to very good engine oil min. Every spring :-)
I have an 06 Kawi Vulcan Nomad 1600, 49000 miles. Now that I have watched your videos I am wondering about the pinging rattle when I open up the throttle and most noticeable going up hill. Could this be the timing, start by checking my timing and maybe the timing chain slap on the spark plug tube?
I don't think there is any way to adjust spark timing, the pickups I think are mounted on dowel pins, Easy to check spark plus tubes except you may need two new O-rings on each,
How loud was that chain slap? I have an 04 1500 Classic Vulcan with 41,000 miles on it. I don't think it's doing it yet but I've heard of this problem and I'm worried that it's going to start doing it I just need to know what to listen for. I've also seen the manual adjustment type slack adjusters for 50 bucks vs the extensions. Really enjoy your videos bud thanks for making them
Sounds like valve tapping, easy check, remove spark plug, I used the head of a large bolt that fit into the adapter or whatever you call it and use large pliers to unscrew adapter, all it costs is a couple o-rings when you reinstall adapter, look for a ware mark on side of adapter
Sir is much better to show for us the sound behind the desassembled the machine and after work to show the end of service, however thank you very much per vídeo.
Help please! I put lash adjusters in my engine and now I don’t have compression on the back cylinder and and ran before I did this. Have any ideas of what I could of done?
I'm pretty sure at least one of the KACR units on my 01 1500 are hooped. I though partzilla used to show the original KACR unit(s) part number(s) as being superseded with a new part number but it no longer shows if the original part was superseded. So how does one know if they're getting an original part or the superseded part?
I have a 2005 not running at this time hit the start button and it clicks one time that is it , I think it might have seized up not sure baught it used with 55000 its got 64000 now didn't like it its a classic and I flat out don't like how it performs compared to my 1500G nomad much better bike , was wondering if you want to purchase my classic
I brought a 2004 Vulcan Nomad, what type of Oil could I use. The bike make a bit of noise, could I use any stabilizer so the engine could run a bit quieter? Thanks.
I've got an 04 1500 classic and I just run 10w40 Valvoline motorcycle blend. These 1500's are a little noisy by nature. I've found a lot of useful information about these bikes in the Kawasaki forms online.
Fuel injected bike,,, they have a fuel power commander,,, controller you can add to get more fuel,,, aftermarket exhaust,, K&N airfilter,,, more gas and air in and better exhaust out will help a bit
I have a 06 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic. It was blowing out white smoke at start up but then stop. I drove it for a while then it ran hot and the coolant was dark like oil had got into the coolant system. Is it an eay fix or would i need another motor? What is the known price to fix the problem?
Sounds like head gasket is blown on one or both heads, Well the biggest expense if you take it to be fixed will be the labor to remove and install engine, As far as parts go assuming your old head is good is a couple hundred bucks for parts. If it were me I would pull engine, remove both heads and have a machine shop check them out really good, have a valve job with new valve seals while there, Will need to buy new head, cam chain tensioner and rocker box gaskets. Now if your going that far why not have the cylinders honed, new rings and a couple more gaskets like exhaust and cylinder base,
I just bought a 98 1500 classic and there seems to be alot of play / slop in the gear shift shaft. It also wants to grind some when I shift to 2nd gear, I started shifting it earlier and it does not grind as much. Also, sometimes when you leave the clutch out, you can feel the lever pull its self back in a little before the lever is out the whole way, is this normal? The bike has around 31,000 miles. I appreciate any help!
A lot op play comes from chrome cover that supports shifter shaft, gets ware,, as far as shifting , bleed out clutch ,, lever (master cylinder) and slave cylinder like you do on a car brakes,, make sure no air is in there and replace old nasty fluid, and finally the shifting grinding might have to do with engine RPM,, thease are low RPM motors and try getting up.a little more RPM's before shifting,,, motorcycles don't have syncronzing gears like cars,, RPM play a big part in not getting the grind
im having trouble trying to figure out how to time my 02 1500 mean streak the book was no help at all if its possible and you don't mind could you possibly send me any info you can on the timing I would very greatly much appreciate it ive pulled the engine 4 times going on the 5th now
I had trouble timing myself,, the book shows a plug you take out to look for timing marks on flywheel,, I remember lining up timing mark on front cylinder and after timing chain was on I had to turn the crankshaft more than one full turn, passing the timing mark I was just using to the other timing mark and install rear timing chain,, Check out Kawasaki 1500 timing on you tube,, just watched a guy screw it up then figure it out ,, Good luck
Great Vid: I was just looking for a was to get rid of the "Clean Air System". Can I remove those without removing the engine? I'll look at the Vid again to see if you said where to get the Plates, to block off those Air valve boxes.. Thanks for the info. Great Video. I have 2 Vulcans 04 and a 99 Nomad
I bought the plates off E-Bay, Should be no trouble removing, no need to remove engine, you will need to remove the gas tank to get rid of all the hoses and this valve thing on top of the engine, And cant remember where it is but the valve thing on top of the engine has two larger smog hoses going to front and back cylinders where the plates will go, the valve thing has a vacuum hose you will need to block off, think it goes to the air cleaner, not sure buy you'll figure it out,
Hi David, i recently bought a 1998 vulcan 1500 classic with a seized engine (the previous owner ran the engine out of oil) I put two quarts of oil in engine. still trying to figure out how he ran out of oil. 27K miles on bike. I havn't pulled the engine yet. (thanks for your videos on the subject) Also the trans will only shift from first to neutral. This may be because the rings are seized ? I want to make sure the trans is good before l work on the top end. An thoughts on this project are appreciated. Or any viewers ,thanks, Chuck
Well If it was me I would pull engine, tare it down, split crank case to check crank and transmission bearings, If the engine is locked up you'll need to pull engine anyway to remove cylinders. Strange it ran out of oil and the guy didn't notice an oil leak.
Likely the transmission is OK, Jack up rear of bike and spin rear wheel and it probably will shift, gears need to move from rear wheel and or engine running to mesh teeth
If your bike is a carbureted model I would check carburetor for a stuck float needle valve, if carburetor over fills with gas the access seeps into the engine, Change out or clean the float needle and seat, might have trash stuck in it. Not sure how gas could get into the oil on a fuel injected model, Bad injector, not sure?
Only way to replace cam chains is to remove engine, left and right side covers and rocker box on top of the engine,,, My bike had around 50,ooo miles, bought new chains, removed old chains only to find they were well within the service limit, nearly new,
I'm putting back together a '97 1500 Vulcan engine that someone else took apart. I bought a shop manual but there's alot of little things they don't tell you. The torque on some bolts aren't mentioned like the oil pump bolts. Could you verify they should be at 11 ft. lbs.? I'm enjoying you videos. Thanx, Dennis.
You ever have problems with misfires when you blip the throttle? Such as when you're slowing down, bump the throttle before you let off the clutch as you roll thru the gears? Im having this problem and I cant get any answers about it., it'll backfire thru the carb, it's an 01 1500E4, 22k miles.
Have you changed the exhaust or gone to a K&N air filter? Sounds to me like a lean condition. There is a mixture adjustment on carburetor, I think the screw goes straight up from the bottom at the edge of float bowl and caped from factory so may need to drill it out, I would try turning screw out a 1/2 turn and possibility buy a an adjustable needle that goes down through main jet. The adjustable needle has different grooves so you can pop off the little clip and raise the needle to give a little more fuel specially if your bike is like a lot of them and is cold blooded, needing to choke to start even when worm you could be running lean, Cheep first thing to try to fix
I will look into that, and yes it has pipes. Can't see a brand name, they're moderately loud, but not wide open though, there's baffles inside. Thanks for the reply sir!
I've got a 97 1500. Slight oil leak out of the top end of the cylinder head at the plug above the spark plug. What would you recommend? Here's a diagram of the cylinder head if you want to refer to anything specific. www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50a98b3cf8700218fcc0975f/cylinder-head
Only way to seal that plug is remove the engine, ( At least partially ) , Remove rocker box, clean surfaces good, RTV plug and rocker box, careful not to over due it on the RTV, A little goes a long way, Re torque Rocker box. Some say Yamaha bond is the best stuff to use
I've got an 04 1500 classic. what's the deal with the cam chain tensioner? is that something that will eventually need replaced or do I need to add extensions? if so about how many miles do they start going out. and when I start hearing that chain slapping how long do I have before it causes major damage? thanks
I don't really know when to add chain tensioner extensions but there only like $25 plus gaskets or you could buy manual cam chain tensioners for around $50. If you work on it let me know how it worked out.
+David Anderson I'll probably just go with the manual tensioners, but as of right now the bike runs great and is not making any noise at all on the top end as far as chain rubbing against the spark plug tube. I was told if it's not making any noise not to worry about it. Thanks
I have a 98 1500 Classic. I heard some noise and put in a manual tensioner. I would listen for chain noise and check the spark plugs tubes for rubbing.
You're a Very good teacher, I learned a lot from this video. Thank you David
Had some concerns about my emissions smog pump bull crap and your the only person with the 1500vn that talks about it, the carburetor vacuum line was my worry but good deal thanks
Great video and info. Keep it coming and thank you.
Im trying to learn all I can on how to replace a broken crank case good videos
Just a tip, lots of pictures and sandwich bags with labels to keep all the parts straight, Good luck
Good stuff bro. Thanks for sharing. My 1500 Classic has a noise and this may have helped figure it out.
@ 13:00. Thank you for explaining the whole airhose thing. Now I'm wondering on the charcoal box thing
Do the 06 and up 1600's have the same problems ?
Love you man, thanks for
Cool shirt, I have on like it but it was from the 50 year anniversary.
I was there -
Thanks ,, garage sale special
Do you or have you used a kuryakyn wild things fuel injection controller? If you do I'm curious on your settings. I just got a 02 nomad 1500.
Why would condensation be blowing into my air intake/filter from the EGR hose things? I have the tick....and tracking things down, found my air box full of moisture after a ride.
Wish you were in Ohio, I love my 04 1500 classic, I know it's going to need an overhaul one of these days and I would love to know how to do it. Been learning a lot about these vaulcan's from your channel. Looking to get another one as a project bike.
I have the EXACT same bike. Red and black
Great Video David. I loaned my son my bike (01 drifter vn1500fi) and he changed the oil as a favor too me but he overfilled it and I drove it not knowing. Now it stalls and I've drained and can't get it to stop stalling out and fouling. Any thoughts? Would it be the crankcase breather? How would I get to it to fix it? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I think you've got the emissions thing backward. If it's like other Kawasakis, there are reed valves in the head that allow air from the air box into be 'injected' (sucked really) into the exhaust to help 'burn off' more of the harmful emissions. So, clean air goes from the airbox through the hoses and vacuum switching mechanism to the heads, not the other way around.
Bucky Tonner yes Bucky I agree with you he's got the air system backwards, it is described well in the clymer manual; WTF 🙄
So it will add pressue to the head instead of reducing it? I was thinking it would not allow it to breath and cause the head to over pressure.
I love doing this stuff 💗
I hope this comment finds you Dave. You video certainly took me down some other avenues on the Kawasaki motor. I was certain the HLA's were the noise problem but I'll also look at the other things you mentioned .
Any links for timing chain adjustment extenders???
Thanks, Big Bill
i dave good video my 1600 kawasaki vulcan classic make noisee on 4 and 5
Hi do you know anything about 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 having few issues I connected cooling fan wire's to battery fan came on. wanting to put toggle switch to make fan come on manually.. Plus have issues with right handlebar switches not starting motor
So if I have a valve tick noise on a cold start is it the decompressor?
When you get a chance can you be a little more specific about getting rid of the emissions thing. While I have my motor out I will get rid of mine to. It’s a 1999 classic have an oil leak in the top backside running on top the pipes.figured it’s the rocker box
Hi Dave quick question what kind of oil do you use and how often do you change it love your videos keep it up guy thanks 🤗
Valvoline Motorcycle Full Synthetic, I change my oil every 3000 miles
Great Video!!!@@
Hi how can I get one of those cover you have? I love your videos
thanks your video helped...I have a 2003 Vulcan classic...I changed the right tensioner fine but the left has the air flow crossover preventing access to right tensioner ...I cannot figure out how to remove the air cross flow ...any ideas ?
I had to replace air crossover as mine, was broke,, you need to remove all parts connected to crossover on both sides including carburetor,,, think i had to remove intake manifold as well but it can be done,,, take your time
@@mobilmontana thanks mate
I got a 91 Vulcan 1500 and am trying to figure out we’re all the hoses vacuum ect go I got the block off plates like you have in video I’m just confused on we’re they all go
R u still around?
how to find out and fix to get spark to plugs 1996 Kawasaki vulcan 1500 classic
Hey David! this is Mark great video!
I have a 2002 kawasaki Vulcan classic 1500 and I was wondering if it's normal for the bike to clunk during shifting up or down I just got it a week ago and this is my first experience with something like that occurring, it's got under 24k on the clock. my previous bike was an old kawasaki kz400 from the late 70' and shifting gears was quiet and smooth.
Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
Hey David great video. I got a question I have a 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic with 17000 miles. When at idle and you rev up the engine the back fender, license plate, baggage bar vibrate rigorously. When I'm riding and use engine brake the rear all vibrates. When you pull in the clutch the vibration goes away. I believe when I shift the rear vibrates and looking at it today the whole bike vibrates slightly at idle. I checked the pipes they are tight except the lower pipe on the l curve am able to move it back and forth. Not sure if something is missing their. I can tighten the bolts at the bracket and up top and it still moves.
Do you buy most of your parts from ebay? That seems to be the best place to shop for older kawasaki parts.
How does the engine breath when the reed valve is blocked off with them plates?
Thats not where engine breaths, thats where exhaust is run back into engine for emissions
Hello David, I replace the oil gear pump on my 99 nomad 1500 single carb, I have a lot misfiring and backfire coming from the bike, could you help?
Sounds like timing, did you mess with cam chain tensioner or sprockets?
I have a1999 vulcan classic 1500 and it's making a noise on the right side of engine and I was wondering if you could help me with any suggestions as what to check on it
I have a 2007 Vulcan Classic 1600. It had some chain slap. Which is fixed . O cranked it , it started just fine . I got on it rode it down the road about a mile to the gas station. Killed it got off went inside was back within 5 min. When i went to start it again it sounded like the starter was dragging. Then it started making these clicking sounds . Ok so i replaced the battery , the starter solenoid , checked all the fuses, but it still will not start it acts like it at first then back to the clicking ....... Any ideas?
I would go back to last repair, something could of come loose
Great video here - Is here a Oil filter up by the cams that restrikt the lube oil to enter for the valve cleanse ?
Look at my video, Head oil leak diagnosis,, shows where filter is, I point it out, doesn't show the actual filter but where they are, 2 each head,, filters are brass material a little bigger than pencil erasor
If my chain has been slapping the tube and worn a hole through the tube, will that cause a Misfire like running symptom? all spark plugs are firing but it sounds like its misfiring.
Oil covered plugs, wires are never good,, could be the trouble,, don't know for sure
They make extensions for chain tensioners to take up slack in chain
Thanks for the advice David. I know It's strange about the oil,there's no oil on the bike that i can see. I was thinking maybe he pissed somebody off. Who knows. Chuck
For the heck of it try pulling the drain plug just to see what comes out, Now you could rebuild that engine, buy a used engine or sell it for parts and use the money for a different bike. there are used engines on E=Bay and you could get an idea what new and used parts are going for, By the way Chuck, what part of the world do you live, I'm here in Tennessee
Hi David thanks for the advice. I'm in Snohomish WA. 3o mi N. of Seattle. If I can't find a reasonably priced motor( $1800 bucks for good one.) I may sell the bike for parts. If you need parts(its a 98 1500)It has Vance&Hines pipes they look pretty rust free. Bike has no marks not dropped or layed down. I haven't checked the oil yet. I was thinking of checking the oil filter for two gaskets. I did this once. Thanks again.
Try checking oil strainer, It's on the left lower side of the motor near the rear, left side if sitting on the bike, Remove large engine cover and on the side of the engine near the bottom just under the gearbox for the driveshaft, The Strainer cover is black, round, a little bigger than a quarter with hex bolt head about 16mm, strainer is about 4 inches long and there will be a spring behind it. if there is any real engine damage there should be a lot of metal shards covering the screen strainer. A little trash is normal. A good place to look and only takes a couple minutes to check
Metal cover plates at 12.22 of the video. Where to buy
DAVID. Where to buy??????tnx
i have a Kawasaki 2000 1500 nomad can you show hoe to stop a oil leak coming from valve or head really can tell if valve or head leaking. please help I love my bike. SAD MAN
First of great video very well explained ,i'm a retired mecanic that at one time worked for a motorcycle dealer i'm used whit old type motorcycle like your 50's harley with crank style i've oned a fue different byke's im my yunger years like bsa triump mainely
i just bought a 2003 vulcan classic so i dont know what is a normal sound to it but i feel a strange buzing vibration in the handelbars and footrest when i'm coasting in 3rd gear at 30 mph imwondering if a should investigate in opening the krankcase or is that vibration normal it feals like a bushing that is laking lubrication it vibrate fos a fue secons then it disapears for a fue more then comes back but is mostly present loking the here from you
louis
I dont know, I know the bearing in the gearbox on the side of the engine that drives the drive shaft sometimes goes out. Guess if it was me I would ride it a little more and see what happens. Sorry I wasn''t more help
Thank's anyway il monitor the cituation during this sumer and check at nek oil change for metalic residue in the oil
If you didnt know there is a oil strainer you can check, its on the drive shaft side of engine, remove chrome side cover and its sort of below the bevil gear assembly on the side of engine near bottom, looks like a bolt about the size of a quarter and when you remove it it has a screen about 4 inches long.
Thank's for the info i'l check it out on the next oil change
PS what do you think about ading a magnet in the strainer to pick up steel particles,when i worked as a automatic transmission specialist they were always present in the oil pan.
Couldn't hurt
I hear that to on my ,06 meanstreak 1600 but it goes away quickly I thought the valves were self adjusting.
Hey David, I don't know if you're still responding to this video but I was wondering...when you remove those exhaust recirculation parts and put those block-off plates on, is there any difference whatsoever in how the bike will run, better or no difference?? Thanks!! Don
Don, my Vulcan Classic has the block-offs and no performance difference.
What did happen was my deceleration backfire with the Vance & Hines went away.
I also have the 2003 vulcan classic 1500. I need to do work on it but the main thing is a problem with the kick stand. The whole for the bolt that holds it on is getting worn out. Causing the spring to fall off. Currently I'm using zip ties to hold it up. Short of welding and drilling the whole out again, what would you recommend?
Well welding idea probably the best maybe finding a larger shoulder bolt and drilling frame and kickstand to that size
Hi David, enjoying the videos. I am about to embark on removing an engine on 1997 vulcan 1500 classic to replace rocker cover gaskets and anything else i find leaking oil. My question: did you have to remove the gas tank from the bike or just the fuel hoses etc??
thank you,
alex gonzales
Yup, gas tank, foot plates, shifter levers, rear brake assembly. radiator and more,, take your time,, take pictures and get a friend to help ,,
My Vulcan will not start after backfiring, hissing noise coming from crankcase hose while cranking any ideas?
Would you leave these filters out for the valve lifers When you reassemble the engine ?
Is thinking that is a good idea if we change to very good engine oil min. Every spring :-)
Only risk is there is a very small hole in hydraulic lifters,, could get plugged up,,
I have an 06 Kawi Vulcan Nomad 1600, 49000 miles. Now that I have watched your videos I am wondering about the pinging rattle when I open up the throttle and most noticeable going up hill. Could this be the timing, start by checking my timing and maybe the timing chain slap on the spark plug tube?
I don't think there is any way to adjust spark timing, the pickups I think are mounted on dowel pins,
Easy to check spark plus tubes except you may need two new O-rings on each,
Good videos very knowledgeable
What causes my FI light to stay on 2000 Vulcan 1500
Fuel injection light,, ? Maybe fuel pressure ,, fuel filter ??
Do you know if there is an overhead valve spring compressor that works with a Vulcan classic 1500? I don't want to pull the head but I will if I must.
I dont know
How loud was that chain slap? I have an 04 1500 Classic Vulcan with 41,000 miles on it. I don't think it's doing it yet but I've heard of this problem and I'm worried that it's going to start doing it I just need to know what to listen for. I've also seen the manual adjustment type slack adjusters for 50 bucks vs the extensions. Really enjoy your videos bud thanks for making them
Sounds like valve tapping, easy check, remove spark plug, I used the head of a large bolt that fit into the adapter or whatever you call it and use large pliers to unscrew adapter, all it costs is a couple o-rings when you reinstall adapter, look for a ware mark on side of adapter
Need someone to show me how to replace the fuel tank on a 1994 Vulcan 1500
Sir is much better to show for us the sound behind the desassembled the machine and after work to show the end of service, however thank you very much per vídeo.
Help please! I put lash adjusters in my engine and now I don’t have compression on the back cylinder and and ran before I did this. Have any ideas of what I could of done?
sounds like timing chain may have moved
Do you have the part numbers for the updated KACR units (compression release mechanism)?
I'm pretty sure at least one of the KACR units on my 01 1500 are hooped. I though partzilla used to show the original KACR unit(s) part number(s) as being superseded with a new part number but it no longer shows if the original part was superseded. So how does one know if they're getting an original part or the superseded part?
I have a 2005 not running at this time hit the start button and it clicks one time that is it , I think it might have seized up not sure baught it used with 55000 its got 64000 now didn't like it its a classic and I flat out don't like how it performs compared to my 1500G nomad much better bike , was wondering if you want to purchase my classic
email me,, mobilmontana@gmail.com
Hi how you put the timing because when i line up the camshaft with the lines is fine but when i put tension with the tensioner it move
All the slack is on tensioner side, try turning crank other way so all slack goes to tensioner side when lining up marks
I brought a 2004 Vulcan Nomad, what type of Oil could I use. The bike make a bit of noise, could I use any stabilizer so the engine could run a bit quieter? Thanks.
I've got an 04 1500 classic and I just run 10w40 Valvoline motorcycle blend. These 1500's are a little noisy by nature. I've found a lot of useful information about these bikes in the Kawasaki forms online.
What can I do for more power/throttle response on my 07 vulcan Nomad?
Fuel injected bike,,, they have a fuel power commander,,, controller you can add to get more fuel,,, aftermarket exhaust,, K&N airfilter,,, more gas and air in and better exhaust out will help a bit
I have a 06 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic. It was blowing out white smoke at start up but then stop. I drove it for a while then it ran hot and the coolant was dark like oil had got into the coolant system. Is it an eay fix or would i need another motor? What is the known price to fix the problem?
Sounds like head gasket is blown on one or both heads,
Well the biggest expense if you take it to be fixed will be the labor to remove and install engine, As far as parts go assuming your old head is good is a couple hundred bucks for parts. If it were me I would pull engine, remove both heads and have a machine shop check them out really good, have a valve job with new valve seals while there, Will need to buy new head, cam chain tensioner and rocker box gaskets. Now if your going that far why not have the cylinders honed, new rings and a couple more gaskets like exhaust and cylinder base,
@@mobilmontana l
We're did you get those cover plates
I just bought a 98 1500 classic and there seems to be alot of play / slop in the gear shift shaft. It also wants to grind some when I shift to 2nd gear, I started shifting it earlier and it does not grind as much. Also, sometimes when you leave the clutch out, you can feel the lever pull its self back in a little before the lever is out the whole way, is this normal? The bike has around 31,000 miles. I appreciate any help!
A lot op play comes from chrome cover that supports shifter shaft, gets ware,, as far as shifting , bleed out clutch ,, lever (master cylinder) and slave cylinder like you do on a car brakes,, make sure no air is in there and replace old nasty fluid, and finally the shifting grinding might have to do with engine RPM,, thease are low RPM motors and try getting up.a little more RPM's before shifting,,, motorcycles don't have syncronzing gears like cars,, RPM play a big part in not getting the grind
@@mobilmontana Thank you so much!
im having trouble trying to figure out how to time my 02 1500 mean streak the book was no help at all if its possible and you don't mind could you possibly send me any info you can on the timing I would very greatly much appreciate it ive pulled the engine 4 times going on the 5th now
I had trouble timing myself,, the book shows a plug you take out to look for timing marks on flywheel,, I remember lining up timing mark on front cylinder and after timing chain was on I had to turn the crankshaft more than one full turn, passing the timing mark I was just using to the other timing mark and install rear timing chain,, Check out Kawasaki 1500 timing on you tube,, just watched a guy screw it up then figure it out ,, Good luck
Great Vid: I was just looking for a was to get rid of the "Clean Air System". Can I remove those without removing the engine? I'll look at the Vid again to see if you said where to get the Plates, to block off those Air valve boxes.. Thanks for the info. Great Video. I have 2 Vulcans 04 and a 99 Nomad
I bought the plates off E-Bay, Should be no trouble removing, no need to remove engine, you will need to remove the gas tank to get rid of all the hoses and this valve thing on top of the engine, And cant remember where it is but the valve thing on top of the engine has two larger smog hoses going to front and back cylinders where the plates will go, the valve thing has a vacuum hose you will need to block off, think it goes to the air cleaner, not sure buy you'll figure it out,
I'm assuming the reed valves will need to be removed? How about instead of ordering the covers, can I just plug the hoses?
Hi David, i recently bought a 1998 vulcan 1500 classic with a seized engine (the previous owner ran the engine out of oil) I put two quarts of oil in engine. still trying to figure out how he ran out of oil. 27K miles on bike. I havn't pulled the engine yet. (thanks for your videos on the subject) Also the trans will only shift from first to neutral. This may be because the rings are seized ? I want to make sure the trans is good before l work on the top end. An thoughts on this project are appreciated. Or any viewers ,thanks, Chuck
Well If it was me I would pull engine, tare it down, split crank case to check crank and transmission bearings,
If the engine is locked up you'll need to pull engine anyway to remove cylinders. Strange it ran out of oil and the guy didn't notice an oil leak.
te shifting is becouse of the P.N.F postive neatural finder.
Likely the transmission is OK, Jack up rear of bike and spin rear wheel and it probably will shift, gears need to move from rear wheel and or engine running to mesh teeth
Hi David I have a mean streak 1500 and im gettting fuel i the oil i dont kno why can you help thanks.
If your bike is a carbureted model I would check carburetor for a stuck float needle valve, if carburetor over fills with gas the access seeps into the engine, Change out or clean the float needle and seat, might have trash stuck in it. Not sure how gas could get into the oil on a fuel injected model, Bad injector, not sure?
Good!!
did you ever get the Harley K on the road?
No yet, to many projects, hopefully
soon
Can the camchains be replaced without stripping the bottom half of the engine ?
Only way to replace cam chains is to remove engine, left and right side covers and rocker box on top of the engine,,, My bike had around 50,ooo miles, bought new chains, removed old chains only to find they were well within the service limit, nearly new,
So why did you think you needed new chains ?
I had around 60,000 miles on my bike, while I had the engine out I thought for sure the chains had ware,
Why did you take the engine out with only those miles on it ?
Loud ticking noise, Valve noise
I'm putting back together a '97 1500 Vulcan engine that someone else took apart. I bought a shop manual but there's alot of little things they don't tell you. The torque on some bolts aren't mentioned like the oil pump bolts. Could you verify they should be at 11 ft. lbs.? I'm enjoying you videos. Thanx, Dennis.
download manual kawasaki vuclan online free tells you torque specs on every bolt on engine
He works for eBay.
You ever have problems with misfires when you blip the throttle? Such as when you're slowing down, bump the throttle before you let off the clutch as you roll thru the gears? Im having this problem and I cant get any answers about it., it'll backfire thru the carb, it's an 01 1500E4, 22k miles.
Have you changed the exhaust or gone to a K&N air filter? Sounds to me like a lean condition. There is a mixture adjustment on carburetor, I think the screw goes straight up from the bottom at the edge of float bowl and caped from factory so may need to drill it out, I would try turning screw out a 1/2 turn and possibility buy a an adjustable needle that goes down through main jet. The adjustable needle has different grooves so you can pop off the little clip and raise the needle to give a little more fuel specially if your bike is like a lot of them and is cold blooded, needing to choke to start even when worm you could be running lean, Cheep first thing to try to fix
I will look into that, and yes it has pipes. Can't see a brand name, they're moderately loud, but not wide open though, there's baffles inside. Thanks for the reply sir!
I've got a 97 1500. Slight oil leak out of the top end of the cylinder head at the plug above the spark plug. What would you recommend? Here's a diagram of the cylinder head if you want to refer to anything specific.
www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50a98b3cf8700218fcc0975f/cylinder-head
Only way to seal that plug is remove the engine, ( At least partially ) , Remove rocker box, clean surfaces good, RTV plug and rocker box, careful not to over due it on the RTV, A little goes a long way, Re torque Rocker box. Some say Yamaha bond is the best stuff to use
David Anderson appreciate the help, I'll give it a go and let you know
David Anderson do you know the torque settings?
my bike pops out of first 1500 a 1999 barn find
no carb is fuel injector
I cut my gasgets myself,10 minutes tracing and cutting saves a lot of money,you can get punches for the holes
not sure why we are buying maintenance free bikes self ajusting this and that and 20k miles gotta take motor out oh and very 6k for shimms
I've got an 04 1500 classic. what's the deal with the cam chain tensioner? is that something that will eventually need replaced or do I need to add extensions? if so about how many miles do they start going out. and when I start hearing that chain slapping how long do I have before it causes major damage? thanks
I don't really know when to add chain tensioner extensions but there only like $25 plus gaskets or you could buy manual cam chain tensioners for around $50. If you work on it let me know how it worked out.
+David Anderson I'll probably just go with the manual tensioners, but as of right now the bike runs great and is not making any noise at all on the top end as far as chain rubbing against the spark plug tube. I was told if it's not making any noise not to worry about it. Thanks
You got it, not making noise than don't worry about it, One of my 1500's has 54000 miles on it and so far no unusual noise.
I have a 98 1500 Classic. I heard some noise and put in a manual tensioner. I would listen for chain noise and check the spark plugs tubes for rubbing.