Amazing Radiant Floor Heat | One Year Update & System Costs
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- čas přidán 31. 01. 2021
- Here’s our long awaited one year radiant floor update!
Our pole barn house is 32x32x12 and the total cost for our DIY radiant floor install (not including foam board slab insulation) is around $1650. In the video we also discuss the cost to run the system in the winter.
And here is a link to the first video we uploaded just after finishing the installation:
• DIY Radiant Floor Heat...
Amazon Affiliate Links for our radiant heat system:
Ecosmart 18 Electric Tankless Water Heater amzn.to/3oDwqQf
Hot Water Drain/Fill Valves amzn.to/2MKMbrq
Amtrol EX15 Expansion Tank amzn.to/3r5QPyW
Honeywell Air Eliminator amzn.to/3cwFuE7
Grundfos UP 15-42 Circulation Pump amzn.to/2Ld6e1g
Y-Strainer amzn.to/3alB4gJ
Additional links for parts also found at supplyhouse.com
Pressure Gauge www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contro...
Bluefin Radiant Manifold www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-H...
Thermostat www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contro...
Pump Switch Relay www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contro...
Floor Sensor www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contro...
Buy our awesome Little Mountain Life shirts here:
www.bonfire.com/store/little-...
Music: 'Are You Having Fun' by Josh Woodward Free download at www.joshwoodward.com additional music from www.epidemicsound.com
I think it would be really helpful for people to know your winter kWh/month consumption more-so than the cost. Cost changes with time, anyone interested in doing hydronic radiant with tankless is going to care about electricity consumption, as that's the originator of cost.
You guys are amazing! These videos are exceptional and will help millions of people thinking about diying their houses!
Thank you for saying that. You rock!
Thanks for the info guys. Absolute bargain in my opinion. I come from a place where underfloor heating is basically non existent so this info is greatly appreciated!
You are the man of true DIY Sprit! Thanks for sharing all the information.
Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate you sharing all the details of your installation costs. 😎👍
Thanks for the price breakdown. We bought a 1940 colonial last year. It has a boiler and cast-iron radiators all on 1 zone. I'm planning to zone out the first floor and second floor of the house, and then run radiant tubing in the basement ceiling to heat the first floor. Your video has been very helpful in seeing the components and pricing.
Glad the video was helpful!
Little suggestion. Tie your other two zones in just incase the seal leaks one day. You can also open one of the unused zones to incase your cold supply tenp. Increasing the cold water supply temp might increase the boiler efficiency. If you can find a ECOsmart efficiency graph you can dial in the boiler to run at its most efficient operating area. Great video👍
not expert.... dude you are way better than many other videos i have seen and your setup is beautiful! thanks for information and the level of detail you gave!
you did great !!! I think you should do this for all your family.. for a DIYer ...I bow to you ...
Thanks! 🙂
Great job again! Thank you for the cost analysis!!
Well done video
Haha, thanks again! 🙃 appreciate you!
Awesome video, folks. Thank you!
Thank you for the video and the information shared. Most amazing part was the ceiling height and little to no effect of this to the heating cost. Interesting. Thanks again.
Great job and update. I remember the last video on radiant floor😎
Thank you!
Nice job - appreciate all of the details - best of luck to you!
Thank you!
i really like the way you use the white tube between the connection. this makes future much easy to change tings, not need to ask a plumber. it can be easily done by ourselves.
AMAZING VIDEO and to top that...great host, excellent list of components I am so greatful for finding this video...all the best! 20 out 10 *****
Basically a different type of masonry heater. Very cool.
Good job hope you’re enjoy it guys 👍
Thank you!
Like your system. I have been working to put together a system for my house. My house was built 60 years ago before these systems came out. I worked at a shop that my boss in stall one of these systems. The main building we in stall a heat exchanger in the duck work and work shop had the plex pipe in stall in the floor. It worked fine. The only problem was he had a wood burning boiler. Where I lived I cannot in stall that kind of boiler. I have been looking at these on demand boiler and did not know if they would work. After seeing your video I am going to go buy one. So I can finish setting up my heating system and cut my gas bill for my furnace.
Thank you for the great detail!
Fantastic video, very well explained and a smart set-up to heat your house.
Thank you!
You both are awesome. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Watched your setup back when Natalie and I was setting up our radiant floor sustem. Good to see it still working good.
Kudos on the diy! You might want to get a flow switch or a low water cutoff to cut the power on the electric boiler in the event of low water/zero pressure. Most local codes require it.
Thanks! The electric tankless turns off when the flow of the water stops.
Great explanation of the system. I'm glad it's working so well for you guys.
I have a 14x16 building and had a Mitsubishi mini split installed. It's wonderful! Very economic and reliable and keeps the temp within 1* either cooling or heating. Also it's whisper quiet which is nice.
Awesome!
Thanks for watching!
so I did mini splits in my shop 28x40. I also did radiant tubes just in case and for resale. After being in my neighbor's shop who did radiant....I'm thinking strongly about adding it. His shop "felt" so much better than my shop. If you live a Menards they sell everything needed and they (via Nebco) will do the tube layout for you.
Very well and considerately explained.
It’s beautifully done, congrats
Thanks!
thank you so much for sharing this!
Fantastic info. I’m planning adu and your tips are great
Awesome . Respect! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
I have virtually the same system in my home (3200 ftsq). The system has been running for 12 years and the only issue has been the flow sense wheel in the Eco is really noisy. The Eco 24 also causes my lights to flicker. I will be replacing the Eco this summer with a heat pump to lower my electrical load.
Awesome video 👍 thanks so much ! !
Dang you 2 people seem evenly yoked congratulations on meeting each other 💕god bless your lives
Thank you! :)
Great job. You work with what you have.
Thank you!
You have a lovely little home! I really appreciate you sharing this information. I just started researching hydronic heating systems. I am thinking about adding a solar-powered system in my condo's basement as a supplement to the forced-air system it has. I'm off to watch your first video now!
Thank you!
I, too, live in northern Virginia and my primary HVAC stem is an electric heat pump with back-up resistance heating coils. My conditioned space is 4,400 sqft (9 ft ceilings). My budget electricity plan (12 month moving average) is $205 per month. I keep my house at 70degF in the winter and 74degF in the summer. The heating is much more expensive than the cooling. I have thought of installing radiant heating, but, at this point, I cannot justify they cost. Regardless, I appreciate and like your CZcams channel!
Cool!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks and have a wonderful life
Great video and info. Thanks Guys !!
Thanks for watching!
thank you thank you thank you for your component list!!!
Thank you for showing your setup, gave me the push I needed to change my oil burning boiler for the Ecosmart and saved a ton of money on my heating bill. I chose to leave the circulator pump on 24/7 and modulate the output temperature when needed depending on the weather. Works great and cost is way down. Thanks for the help !
Like the Redlegs hat ⚾️ !
Enjoyed your video. Suggestion regarding cooling(although probably a bit late) you could very efficiently run cool water through the same set of circuits and make a switch via a chiller and heat exchanger between winter/summer modes. Very effective and much more eco friendly than using Aircon. The cooling effect from the floor is very comfortable like the radiant effect with heating but in reverse( your bodies give up heat to the floor in cooling mode).
Happy 2 year anniversary.
Awesome video. You talk about monthly costs. What’s your kw/hr cost in your area for hydro? We have a similar size house and are thinking about installing a similar system.
Good content. Great job!
Thanks!!
Awesome video! I live in rural alaska. I have a 1100 sq house with a attached garage (including the sq footaged) i have a hot water on demand and two toyostove. One in the shop and another in the house. I burn 300 gallons of diesel every 4 to 5 months ($1300) for the diesel. Plus $280 for electric a month. So hope that wood stove will work. Im planning on building a shop with floor heating. That why i watched your video. Thanks again.
I just purchased a newer (7yr old) home with hydronic heated slab in the basement and heated slab in detached 700 sq foot garage.
Living in Eastern Canada, our winters are long and can be rather ‘harsh’... I’ve only been in the house for 2 months now but absolutely love this type of heat. We also have electric heated floors in the kitchen and a forced air system as we are approximately 4100 sq feet over 3 levels.. so although the radiant heat does raise, the forced air is still required for the bedrooms on the top level... plus the a/c ducting was required for our hot/humid summers. I love going into my garage that is a constant 17 degrees and getting into my warm vehicle especially as we are currently sitting at -30 degrees with the wind chill. The cost of running the system is almost irrelevant to me given the benefits. I do have the boiler system with a hot water holding tank for household use... so all in one is great!
That's nice.
Nice staff, thanks for sharing))
Thanks for watching!
That pump brings back fond memories. I installed a radiant heating system when I finished off the basement in my last house. It featured radiant heating above the slab and below the ceramic tile flooring as well as underfloor heating for the kitchen tile floor. It didn't need to provide that much heat - just the comfort of having warm, rather than cold, tile floors. I used a side loop off of my existing water heater. Three separate temperature controlled loops, so I had three of those pumps that you have.
Excellent Video
Thank you so much,
thank you Don , awesome video! I love the hat too!!
Thanks! 👍🙂
So regarding... the... control via multiple breakers...
You're most likely not saving much by switching one off. Yes, the instantaneous draw is halved, but the unit will run twice as long to reach the same temperature. Half of the power, for twice as long, is actually the same amount of energy. You halve the kilowatts but double the hours, so the same number of kilowatthours.
As to the others, talking about your costs being high... I don't think that has anything to do with it being a radiant floor. Your costs are high, but I suspect that's entirely because your energy source is electric, which comes with an associated high rate.
There are direct-vent hydrocarbon-fired on-demand water heaters available, which ... listen, no responsible person would ever go on record calling any gas-fired appliance "DIY-friendly," but it's been done many times and if you follow the darn instructions they're really not that difficult. *Technically* the fuel efficiency is actually less, BUT the fuel is considerably cheaper, so your monetary efficiency would be higher.
There are also heat-pump-based water heaters which I've encountered a few of - they're tank-type, and don't achieve nearly the heat output you would need to warm your place up from a cold start, but it might be worth looking at for just maintaining temperature. Disclaimer: I have not done *any* math on that, the idea literally just popped into my head as I'm writing this, so if you check it out and it turns out to be totally impractical, well, it was just a thought so don't set me on fire.
Others have mentioned zone valves. If you're not having problems keeping even heat throughout the house, and you're okay with "all or nothing" heating, then great, there's no pressing need to add additional copmlexity... on the other hand, depending on lifestyle, you may be able to save a bit more money by lowering the temperature in parts of the house...
I think he was saying they use both circuits to get the slab up to the preferred temperature, then shut one off if they just want to maintain that temperature and it's not excessively cold outside.
Nice setup guys
Thanks!
The Ecosmart will adjust the temperature that is coming out of the heater, is controlled by the sensors and the computer of the water heaters. Don't need to turn off the breakers for the water heaters. The system look awesome.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve realized that the sensor helps regulate the required energy to heat the water 👍🙂
Thanks, looking to build a small retirement home and do this.
If I could go back and do it again, I'd install a radiant floor heat system tied into our boiler setup. Nicely done👍
Yeah it’s pretty great!
Thanks man!
I need to go back and watch your installation video. I wasn’t following you guys yet. We’d love to install radiant heat in our basement.
Well this is a better video so be nice 🤣
@@LittleMountainLife I’ll keep that in mind. 😂
I have installed a single zone radiant heat system for a separate AUD ,430 sqf. I chose electric for some of the same reasons stated here. There is another reason, PV panels. (If the system used gas I could not take advantage of the solar regarding heat.).
The heater I chose strongly recommended copper pipe coming in and out of the tankless water heater minimum 3’ from the unit. (Not PVC) and the convert to the pex at the floor. I love the shark bite, pex ,pvc plumbing system and it would have been way easier as well as making repairs or adjustments to the system. So I went with copper but made sure all components could be removed and serviced without desoldering copper joints.
So far I love the soft heat ,virtually silent. It comes on in the early morning for a couple hours and it’s good all day and most of the night. ( 18 inches of thermal mass).
You can have doors and windows open during the day(COVID) for business clients without losing the heat investment. ( I am in California) You’re not heating the air but the thermal mass.
I went with an open system so the same heater supplies two sinks and a shower. The warm floor acts as a water tank (average of 98 degrees in the cold season) this makes it easier for the small tankless heater because the water is prewarmed before entering the heater and the fixtures provide a much quicker access to hot water ( saving waisted water.and energy).
Hi, Dana, can you share more details about the system you used? Brands costs, etc? I share the same weather and are looking to build several ADU type setups.
I have installed modulating boilers and ,they are better for heating and hot water with the turn down ratio when not heating and just needed for domestic hot water
Well done
Thank you!
Amazing. Just saw this. Planning to do small addition to my house in long island NY. Would love to see all your video of your project. Please let me know where to find them. Thank you
Nice!
At a tankless fair demo 10 years ago, I asked about merging into a radiant flooring system. The rep said 'Oh, yeah, NO, don't use a tankless. You will be running the burner so randomly and so often, you will burn it out much faster than normal use.' So do research and get multiple opinions.
Here in quake country, tanked is the way to go anyway, as it's an additional 30+ gallons of water available in case a pipe breaks.
Great video
Thank you!
good to learn
nice work
Have you considered using an air-to-water heat-pump in combination with a large accumulator tank to heat your floor-heating water? A heat-pump with a COP of 3+ is not all that expensive and would reduce your heating-related power bill considerably. Your circulation pump would then draw its water from the accumulator tank. I set up such a system here on the west-coast of Norway about 12 years ago and it works wonderfully. I even use the heat pump to draw air from the house's ventilation thus ensuring that wonderful combo of fresh and warm indoor climate. If your accumulator has an extra heating coil you may even use it to preheat the cold inlet water that you feed into your consumption hot water tank.
Sounds like a great setup you have!
We have extremely limited space in our utility room and the small wall mounted electric tankless is perfect. Heat pumps are the more efficient option for most people for sure.
Nice job
Nice set up, as you mention you built a pole barn construction, which is something I’ve been toying with gives you the space as well as the height inside to add second story loft or living area.
I just found your channel and will look back on it
🤞 good luck
Just a couple of ideas. You might want to consider installing a couple of ceiling fans if you haven't already. Heat will stratify even though you have floor radiant. It would be better to get that heat back down to where you live, even though you are comfortable now. It would allow you to turn you floor heat down a bit. I'm not sure I understand why you aren't just running a standard thermostat, but I'm sure that you have your reasons.
You should seriously think about replacing your electric water heaters with a wall mount 95% condensing boiler. Your home looks well insulated, and I think you could easily save $100 a month net for heating your home in the middle of winter. You may be a bit afraid of the venting, but that's the easiest part (believe it or not). Just run it out an exterior wall and leave the exhaust higher than the intake and at least 12 inches away so the air intake doesn't suck in the exhaust. Depending on the length, you may be able to use 2" but for certain you could use 3". I'd recommend a Laars FT 100,000 BTU. They are about $1,800 through Supply House, and if you've gotten this far, you're smart enough to do a boiler. You could get a combi and get your hot water from it, but that's up to you.
Being a bit long winded here, but you're thinking is backwards on the split duct heat pumps. They are BY FAR the best way to heat your home at least to 30 degrees. Just a guess, but using 14 cents as you cost for electricity, you may be able to heat for $70 a month at 30 degrees and $120 at 10 degrees with a 19-21 seer heat pump. You could probably get by easily with one 24,000 BTU or 2 12,000 BTU heat pumps, and there are very likely rebates available. Depending on your income, you may be able to get them for free or half price because of the Inflation Reduction Act (that program will probably be available in April at the earliest, keep your eyes open). Don't think twice, get split duct heat pumps, even if you love your radiant. Oh, they're easy to put in too.
Forgive me if I'm telling you stuff you already know.
Good luck! Thanks for the video!
I wish they made a heat pump for ceilings. It would be perfect for their use case.
They would do well to get a water tank setup attached to a heat pump to lower their bills. Then some radiators for the inside coming off the same system.
you seem knowledgeable enough and I am entertaining the idea of installing something like this in my apartment in Europe. Ive lived in the US and love how everyone is DIY and I did a fair share of DIY in the US as well... an apartment in Europe things get trickier because, well apartments so logistics is so much different and all the constraints. Anyways, im moving to my own apartment in June and sinnce its the last floor and I have 600 sq ft terrace I can do thinngs at my own pace and entertain some DIY.
Since it's a rooftop, I have also space above on the roof and was thinking... is it possible to have this radiant system but instead of a boiler, to have a Solar Panel? Solar Panels with a tank are standard here in this country for Water heating purposes, so I was thinking if a panel would make sense and how much different would the installation be? Seems it would be straighforward no? There are 330 sunny days without a single cloud and in the winter, houses are cold because construction here sucks (all concrete and barely no insulation if any). I do inntend to insulate as most I can but given temperatures at most drop to 40F with sunny day, would such a solar system work? Seems like pretty cheap and great savings given electricity prices here are 30 cents per kWh
Excellent video. I like the idea of those tankless water heaters as they would pair nicely with a substantial solar pv array. The cost for your system seems very doable. Very cool system and great explanation of the overall system and components. Thanks very much.
Thank you!
Hey good to see your setup again! Man your electric must be higher than mine. My building you probably remember is 2300 sq ft and my bill is usually $200 avg. it was $250 one month when we had a lot of below zero weather but that was crazy cold. Also that includes all my electric usage not just heat. Curious what your cost is per kWh?. Thanks for the update.
$250 seems so cheap to me out in Northern California! I'm curious what YOU pay per kWh?
Nice place 👍.
FYI - a key selling point of the Ecosmart water heaters is their computer control that “ calculates the incoming temperature & flow rate to determine the appropriate power output to reach the the set temperature point “. Ecosmart also specifies their elements are Triac controlled meaning they are variable wattage.
Thanks!
I’ll have to look into that more! I didn’t realize it used variable wattage. Appreciate the tip!
Great video! Wow that’s cheap in a cold climate
You should install a geo thermal unit . I am from Ireland who where the ground freezes in winter . I have worked on alot of houses that have it. It takes heat from 6- 12 foot under the ground and pumps it in to the underfloor heating via a heat exchanger . It has an initial cost but after that you are paying to run a pump only . Boilers are installed as a back up but rarely needed depending on how hot you want the floors ..
Solar heat will happen soon 👍
I think that system would be great with hybrid water heaters
Thanks for the great overview. Do you know what it costs to heat similar sized homes per month near where you live? And is cooling of your house going to be a concern in the summer months in your area?
sounds like his set up is about $200-250/mo for 1000sf or $20-25 per 100ft / mo.
Have you considered setting water heaters lead lag so that they see somewhat of equal use ( lead lag takes turns being first on last off )
So you have two more loops available for a year round green house. Nice setup
I think you did great!
Thanks! It's still working great!
nice job.would love to see video on how you flush the heaters.youll love the mini splits i use mine in the early and late heating season instead of my wood boiler and it works great
Thank you! Yeah I’ll have to do a flush video in a bit.
Nice system. Just a cautionary note. I would recommend you do not flush your system because it introduces oxygen rich fresh water that will cause corrosion to components of the system particularly the circulator. Also flushing the system adds more minerals which actuality builds up on the electric elements.
@@danf2588 by flush I was referring to just flushing the electric heater. Totally understand what you’re saying though. Thanks!
@@danf2588 thanks
@@LittleMountainLife don't need to flush heater if you use glycol and distilled water. They actually don't recommend it.
Directly using electricity for heat is highly inefficient in most areas. The mini splits heating function will likely save you 1/3 to 1/2 on power usage. Possibly more depending on your climate and COP of the units you get.
And a natural gas heat system would be even less than that.
@@truthseekerKJV Yeah that’s the cheapest for sure. Doubt he has access to it. My house in freezing Northern Michigan is nearly 4k s/f and costs $200 heating to 71 with natural gas.
HVAC manufacturers really need to get on the stick and make Air to Water Heat pumps commonplace in the US. They are becoming the go-to in Europe. We already know how efficient air to air heat pumps are, but having air to water would make radiant heat very efficient and very affordable. Would even give natural gas a run for its money.
@@helmutreviews7204 I totally agree with that. The cheaper cooling cost would even help offset the heating cost difference between NG. In my area a geo install costs about 30k. That’s hard to justify. Those new Well-Connect systems that strip water of its heat and dump it in the septic are sorta a step in the right direction coming in a 5-6k for a install. But It’s only supplemental, and only time will tell the adverse effects running 2gpm of water through your well and septic constantly.
@@helmutreviews7204 Air to Air, HP totally suck in the dead of winter.
If you own an excavator and have some land, you can put in a Geothermal pretty reasonably and they save a ton of money. Another great option is a wood boiler, especially if you have a wooded lot and don't mind processing some firewood. The new boilers are super efficient, and use half as much wood as they did just 10 yrs ago
I haven’t really had a heat bill in 15 years, I m using an od wb .tho I have some electric cost the rest is basically free after initial install. Tho not as slick of a system it is extremely comparable in the comfort aspect. I’ve saved $30k in propane costs n gotta say “love it “!!!! 3500 square feet too !!
Nice video and tidy setup. Can I ask why you went for a wet UFH system when you use electricity to heat the water? Would it not have been significantly easier and cheaper to just install an electric heater wire UFH system?
Good show
Thanks!
You might have covered it but what temperature do you normally try to keep the barndo at? Have enjoyed watching all your videos and appreciate you sharing the successes as well as the failures and how you overcame them.
Thanks we appreciate you saying that!
We currently have the heater set to 110 degrees with just one of the two elements on and the outside temp is 15 degrees. Inside room temp is 73.
@@LittleMountainLife whoa 110 degrees sounds hot for floor water when 15deg outside. What is the actual water temperature, is it keeping the 110 or is the temp limited by the heater power? Do you have any way to control the heater setpoint according to outdoor temp?
I am surprised it is costing 250/mnth for heat.
I can only surmise you are still pretty leaky with the envelope.
Any way was nice to see who and how you sourced the bits and pieces and it gives me a better idea of what to expect in Canada with our low cad/usa dollar conversion.
All good information.
His cost per KW might be HIGH, making $250 reasonable compared to other forms of electric resistance heating methods.
does different floors need different system or can it be integrated into one system? how comfortable you are about putting it concrete!! i am little concerned about leaks and having issues on repair as i wont be able to take it out if there is a leak
Very interesting. I wouldn't go electric as where I am at it is very expensive but if it works for you, hey its ok. It would be a great test if one could add in a propane tankless heater to compare costs. The more remote one is, the less options are out there.
For sure a test to compare would be good to see.
Yeah we just aren't interested in relying on propane delivery up the mountain. Last winter a propane truck got stuck up here for several days and the people needing it were out of luck...
Great job with this video. I will go back and watch the previous one and add one more to the count. Did you add antifreeze to your closed loop water? I am mid way into building a 60'x40' house with high ceilings and 4 zone radiant heat. Good to hear that you like yours and that it heats very well at a reasonable cost.
Thank you! No antifreeze in our system. Hopefully that works out. 😆
Good luck with your build!
I would advise you to use cryo-tek 100 in your system and use a natural gas or propane tankless heater , you will save on heating costs. Electric will work ONLY if you use a thermal mass build and take advantage of Off- peak electric rates . Otherwise electricity will be more then natural gas. Once natural gas per therm price is over $1.44 , then electricity will be more cost effective. I have more info on my CZcams of thermal mass builds , if you need more information or ideas
@@JasonCZcams Thank you Jason, I subbed to your channel and will check for additional info.
No one seems to talk about this, but now that you've been using it, how often, and for how long does your floor heating kick on for to keep your home at a comfortable temperature in the winter in a given 24-hour period?
Just one thing: I would put the circulator to pull the water into the heating unit and NOT pulling from it. It just makes the life easier on the circulator as this method prolongs its life as it gets the water that is not as hot as the water exits the heating unit.
That's all. Other than that, I really loved your system. In fact, I'm using it as the model that I'm building my own system based upon.
Very impressed thanks for putting all the links. They realy help my. ? How do you know what size pressure tank or expansion tank to use
there are charts you can referance. I belive you use the output of water heater or boiler and the puressre the system opperates at. for radiant usually 30psi
an expansion take is just a tank full of air with a rubber bladder separating it from the water. basically a bloon. when valves open and close the puresser can spike in the inclosed water system. the tank is ment disapate thoes short spikes in puressure, rather then a connection or other piece of equipment.
Here's the link to the first install video czcams.com/video/TBmXC8hXNKQ/video.html
How small of an electric tankless water heater do you think you could have gone with? The 18k is bigger than I was thinking I needed to eventually raise and maintain the temp desired. I’d appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
Great informative video! Where do you have the thermostat wire running?
Did you drill into your concrete or is it lying on top a few inches from your runs?
Thanks! Thermostat is in the wall cavity and I put the sensor inside a hole drilled in the bottom sill plate
THanks for an interesting video. What climate zone are you in (to better judge your energy use)?
With high insulation grid powered thermal mass heating is a good idea because the grid is transitioning to renewables. I did the same strategy in my 100 year old house.
I installed R100 in the attic and R35 under the floor boards and then I installed an electric coil thermal mass tiled floor slab under my bed and desk. Works great providing the best heat!
Hey, I'm just trying to understand these systems for the first time. What relays/switches the heaters on? You mentioned the controller starts the pump, do the heaters only trigger when there is flow? Thanks. Great video and breakdown.