Me (a fool) VS. Bambu Lab X1-Carbon (foolproof?) // X1C Combo Initial Impressions
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- I tried out the Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer and it pretty much blew my mind. Watch along to see my experience setting it up, printing a bunch of things, and making a few mistakes!
Thanks to Bambu Lab for sending me their X1-Carbon in exchange for sharing my honest experience with the printer, as well as FixDry with their NT1 Filament Dryer.
𝐒𝐡𝐨𝐩𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐋𝐢𝐬𝐭*
• Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo 3D Printer : bit.ly/MA_X1C
• Bambu Lab Filaments : bit.ly/bamFIL
• FixDry NT1 Dual Filament Dryer : bit.ly/fixdry
*10% off with code MA10*
- or on Amazon : amzn.to/3T8vPZ6
𝐒𝐓𝐋 𝐅𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐬
• Files on Thangs : bit.ly/maThangs
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➠ Join Team Make Anything on Patreon : / makeanything
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➠ My 3D Printing files on Thangs : bit.ly/MakeAnythang
Chapters :
00:00 Intro
1:30 Unboxing
4:05 First print
6:13 More filaments, more prints!
8:30 Multicolor printing
10:34 Notable prints
12:46 Drying prints
14:27 Troubleshooting
15:12 Replacing the nozzle
16:48 Conclusion - Věda a technologie
So far I've had my X1C for 3 months and I have been printing nonstop. I LOVE this printer, it blows away every other printer I've ever used.
Did you also own an ender prior? I own 3 enders but its just so frustrating that I can't rely on them without constant tinkering wanting to upgrade to a X1C to avoid all this hassel and just print carelessly.
I hope we get something that is basically a merging of the prusa xl and x1c.
Hi! I think your stopping issue was just because of a bad slicing/software thing, like a bug.
For the crooked nozzle, I recommand you to use gyroid infill instead of grid one. This infill tends to make the nozzle cross sections where filament has already been filed (so a little bit too thick). 90% of crooked nozzle I saw on internet happened because of that.
Happy printing!
This, plus using thermal paste instead of silicone grease won't make the z-axis motion fantastically smooth which may well have contributed.
Dude I don’t see many of your videos anymore but everytime I do I remember exactly why I love your channel, its so chill but also very detailed. Love your stuff man and congratulations on the move!
Lol love the smoking jacket! You look like a wizard!
I am very much enjoying where 3D printing is going! Automating all those things is great!
The ease of switching filaments with the ams is so great. I love that I can plan filament changes for my next print and prep while a print is going. I don’t even print multicolor very often beyond the first couple layers. Just the convenience has proven its worth for me.
Exactly 🙌
I went from an Ender 3 and cr10 to a Bambu P1S and I am not disappointed! I feel like Bambu is like the Apple or 3D printing. Perhaps less ways to tinker with it, but it just works. After tinkering with Creality printers for a while, the P1S is like a breath of fresh air when it comes to 3d printing. Looking forward to more Bambu x1 vids Devon!
Thanks for taking the hits for us, saving us from some difficulties.
Would love to see some vlogs/ impressions about Sweden
You're in luck! I have a new channel for that: youtube.com/@skapaallt
@@make.anything Awesome! Thanks för sharing!
love your personality in your videos! Keep creating! Thanks!
I got a p1p last year upgrading from my anycubic i3 mega, and wow, every new printer I get has gotten better obviously, but bambu lab has been the most streamlined process I’ve used with printing so far. I love the auto bed leveling, and I love how if things go wrong it’ll detect it and pause the print. Super nice!
The engineers at Bambo Labs probably had a heart attack when they saw the footage of you "lubricating" the z axis.
lol absolutely >.
They got a second one when they saw he used low temp thermal paste on a hotend that can go to 300 degrees C. The thermal paste will dry out, crack, the contact with the thermistor will become worse, and eventually your hotend starts running a lot hotter than you want to the point where it's a potential fire hazard.
They'll chock it up to testing probably. "OH boy, let's see what happens so we can tell other people how they screwed up and not allow a warranty claim"
I vacuum seal my filaments in the bags after drying them. Then I stick the bags into another large, clear box with dry bead in screen bags.. huge difference in my prints.
Welcome to Sweden! Had no idea you were moving here! Välkommen!!!
Looking forward to seeing what you do with all the purge material. Some kind of recycling thing perhaps.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Holy crap. I've had this printer for 3 months and now I wonder if I used the thermal grease instead of the lubricating grease too. I'm afraid to look. Thanks!
Needed this review... I'm looking to upgrade... Thanks!
Ive been on the edge of ordering an X1 Carbon... but now Im just waiting on the AMS hub to restock. The timing of your video could not have been better. 😀
The AMS is restocked!!
I hope you print some of the multicolored phone cases or any “upside down” color prints and show us the finish. I am curious about the smoothness of the print bed and how they turn out.
I found that while you are in the Bambu Slicer you can just click on the Device tab to reset the colors in the AMS then go back to the prepare tab and click resync. That way you don’t have to shut down and restart the slicer.
did you really print the thrashes for the seperation :D
Got my p1s yesterday coming from a ender 3 .. blown away
Given that your bottle only had color on one plane, printing it on its side would have absolutely minimized the quantity of swaps, maybe worth a try!
I was thinking the same thing.
Congrats on moving, hope it's a great place! I find minimalistic sets fun personally :D
Those lightweighted Tippi Tree parts look nice.
Thanks! The files will be out soon :)
I look forward to your long-term review and i hope they release a larger printer.
Just wait until you try the A1-mini!
You will be surprised how great a sub 400 USD printer is these days!
The price to user-experience-excellence ratio is insane.
I have had my X1C Combo for 9 weeks now and I love it, I still use my other printers for prints that are too big for the X1C though, although they are relatively fast the X1C is faster
One thing that disappointed me was there was no printed instruction to set the AMS up, and I had to use the internet to do this, I prefer printed instructions to a screen!
There’s ams sync buttons in the Bambu Studio Slicer
That's actually crazy how much it can figure out itself. Stuff that takes me quite a bit to set up just isn't something that happens on this one
Really cool intro!
I had an ender 3, got a dud, my P1S is fantastic and only have had problems with the slicer being a little goofy and adjusting the flow between layers causing artifacting (fixed by printing a little slower), poop getting stuck (the biggest issue imo), and a little ghosting (can't quit fix I've lubed rods, tensioned belts, slowed down, cleaned, etc.)
I also had the stop issue, turn out too be a faulty sd card
Dramatic reenactment game on point
If the print head is stopping randomly. If possible isolate the layer it paused on and check the GCode in the slicer. It likely had an error or something telling the printer to pause in that spot. The slicer likely has a layer by layer tool path view to help.
If you do a small multi color print like that you can actually print a build plate full of them with no extra purge needs
unlike my ender 3, the bambu lab printer is 1000 times easier to use, great quality without any tinkering and perfect for newbies.
BTW it is NOT recommended to use Carbon Fiber with the AMS, same for PLA wood and TPU.
EDIT: Also for affordability there is the A1 mini combo, it includes the AMS, it has a camera and all auto bed leveling, except for the lidar sensor. Ther is also the cheaper version of the X1 Carbon, the P1D which I have and its an amazing printer as well
And if it's not in your price-range ... the P1S has basically everything from the X1C that you'd need (and the hardened nozzle and extruder gears can be added to get even more close). And the plastic enclosure may even have some benefits over the metal X1C one.
I really suggest changing that thermal paste asap to something more heat resistant.
Noctua NT-H1 is only rated for up to 110°C
It might work just fine for a while, but it will quickly dry out and loose the heat transfer abilities - and getting that thermal probe out, will be a little hard :P
Is the model of the bottle from 08:50 somewhere available? I'm sure my wife would love a thing like this.
Single color version: than.gs/m/1001451?affiliateCode=MAKE
Multicolor Version (for Thangs Members): than.gs/m/1001453?affiliateCode=MAKE
Wait so you left your other printers wherever you moved from?
Small tip for the multicolor bottle you printed. You could print the bottle on its side and you would save alot more filament and i believe it would look even better. Only add supports for the threaded parts but the insides dont need it because it looks like a small bridge the x1c can handle.
So what made you to move to Sweden? Nice demo of the Bambu printer - that is the same model I'm thinking about to replace my 10+ years old Rostock printer.
I love your videos and your ideas with honesty. Thank you so much!
Thanks! I moved mostly for the adventure of it, but I go into more depth on my other channel Skapa Allt :)
@@make.anything I found you searching Skapa Allt . Gooooooooooood luck there. It is a very different way to live and one must like snow and cold! I subscribed your channel so I don't have to ask questions you answered on Skapa Allt .
I saw one video that showed that the power loss recovery on printers could cause it to pause like you were seeing.
Basically it's designed to save it's progress after a set number of gcode lines. And on models that are saved with absurdly high triangle counts, the gcode generated is tons more tiny moves instead of fewer longer ones. So the power loss recovery pauses on those prints in a weird set pattern, leaving artefacts behind.
However I have not been able to find the settings to control power loss recovery in bambu studio or the printer so I was never able to confirm this...
I’m not sure that’s the issue. I just had a couple of very large prints start pausing and causing artifacts. I turned the printer off and then back on and it resumed the print with no pausing.
@@geekmommy4 i was just throwing a possibility out there. It could be so many things. We all have different printers on different firmwares.
Edit: there's also the video from cnc kitchen titled (how) i finally got rid of these blobs, from a couple years ago. Bottom line is that stl saved with absurd numbers of triangles lead to issues in the gcode execution if it's not mitigated properly.
There’s a synch and re-synch button in Bambu slicer for the AMS. A little annoying but you don’t have to restart the slicer.
Sometimes those buttons work for me but other times it just doesn't update or it says there are no compatible filaments
Have also been suffering connection issues after the X1C had been powered down, the printer does not seem to be available although on the printer it shows an active wifi connection. Rebooting either the printer of Bambu slicer seems to eventually solve the problem
What brought you to Sweden?
Awesome Vid,
just one thing about the Thermal Grease. The one that comes with the Printer seems to be made for much higher temps than normal thermal grease. I once used some normal thermal grease because I was in the same situation as you, and what ended up happening is it hardened very significantly making it really hard to remove the thermistor, which ended up ripping out. Just be careful if you ever need to remove it again, use some rubbing alcohol and you should be good :)
I'll be ordering some proper thermal paste ASAP, but good tip about removal, thanks!
7:43 I had a similar issue with my Ender 3 when using Marlin with OctoPrint. For me, the problem was that the resolution of the part was too high, causing the queue to fill up and the printhead to pause momentarily. You might want to try lowering the resolution of your print. (I'm not sure how to do that, though, as I upgraded to Klipper which resolved the issue for me :P)
Wait, you crashed it into your hand hard enough to break skin? Is that when you bent your nozzle?
not exactly, I pulled my hand away quickly and hit the printer body >.
5:20 Preasure advance not flow calibration. You can use the lidar to calibrate flow in the slicer but it’s not very accurate.
You're thinking of Switzerland. Ha! How interesting that you moved to Sweden! I clearly missed some news!
Note to add: Oh man! All the holes in the spool thing...YES!!! That is always something I complain about! No one gives enough holes for the filament to go. It's ridiculous how they don't think of that! That is pretty awesome!
You shouldn’t have to restart the slicer to sync the AMS. If you go to devices and select the printer, then go back to the main are and click the sync button, it should have the most up to date filament.
Were you using a carrot to tap the check boxes?
Instead of the glue stick, try spraying windex or glass cleaner. it works very well for bed adhesion, plus you don't have sticky residue.
Would you consider doing an update video? Just curious how you ended up in Sweden? Saw a livestream video you posted a month ago but it is 4 hours long and… 😅
youtube.com/@skapaallt
Ha awesome! We moved to California in 2022 after living in Sweden for 8 years! Definitely take vitamin D if you aren't already, we had a great time over there and still have an apartment we visit often@@make.anything
The thermal paste that you used, probably is not rated for up to 300C. Check to make sure, as it could be an issue.
Welcome to Sweden!
Using PC thermal grease is not the best idea and you should replace it on time. It is just not meant for that high temperatures. At least the spec sheet I looked into when I had the same problem said the max temperature was about... I think it was 130°C or something in that range.
It probably bleeds out quickly (the silikon component runs away), gets dry and stops working properly.
Thanks for the heads up!
Welcome to sweden. Hoppas du kommer trivas :D
I’m sure you referred to Bambu’s site for swapping the nozzle when handling carbon fiber, but just in case you weren’t aware:
This is a really great video for convincing me to very a X1 nonetheless 🤭
As a Swede it is super fun to have you here and how do you feel abt sweden right now?
It's amazing, even with the rain :D
Forget the printer, I’m jealous of your move to Sweden.
does it work with non Bambu filament?
Yes, the slicer has presets for several different brands and includes a generic. You have to tell the AMS what the filament type and color is, since it can't read that info from an NFC tag like it can for Bambu filament, but other than that it works just fine with third party filaments. (I primarily use Inland)
It does. You'll lose the automatic material detection tied to the NFC tag but generally other filaments should work fine. The AMS can have problems with cardboard spools as well but I know people have come up with workarounds
Does that printer need to be hooked to the internet in order to print?
No, you can print locally with a micro SD.
@@make.anything Thank you for the quick response :)
In my opinion, there is definitely a better option for multi-material and multi-color printing these days. The XL from Prusa is certainly a better step in all aspects.
The first argument for Bambu will certainly be the lower price, but that is relative, Bambu has a huge consumption of filament compared to XL, the waste falling next to the printer, as we saw in the video, is bigger than the filament part itself.
Print times are also shorter.
If I add it up to the filament used and the time required, the price is basically not that big.
I cant get over how you call it a poop shoot 😂😂 you’re not wrong it just reminds me of uncleaned/deveined shrimp ive always called it the poop shoot 😂
the resemblance is uncanny :O
Lycka till med svenskkursen!
You probably had grid infill selected when you printed the pla cf. that would explain the shards and bent nozzle. Unless you have the filament calibration perfect, temps, fans etc. it’s better to avoid and use gyroid. Grid infill crosses over at the same intersection every time. If it’s cooling the filament too fast this gradually increases the hight of the model infill until the nozzle collides with the print. If you were watching the print you would of heard it scrapping over the infill. Plus it produces shards over the bed and poor top layer.
Bambu printers are a game changer in the non-commercial 3d printer world. it’s certainly woke up the other manufacturers of 3d printers and made them up their game.
Top surfaces suffer over time at Bambu speeds, plus the Z-steps are affected (possibly by needing to clean the Z-screw threads) on the X1C too.
Otherwise, yeah Prusa need to up their app, workflow and user experience game ASAP otherwise they'll become irrelevant soon
Do you mean the print surfaces hold up worse, or the printer gets worse at printing them?
I am also wondering what you specifically mean, the top layer stops printing well and has defects or that the top layer is weak and breaks easily because of poor layer adhesion or something else so to the speeds. I tend to print outside layers at slow speeds but that only affects the last layer on top vertically. There are also a ton of printers that print fast, or faster than this one. It's still not great for CF as you really need a heated controlled chamber to get the best CF prints. You can also increase the top wall layers .....
It doesn't seem like Prusa is doing anything. I saw they had a 5 tool head printer but it was 5K and aimed towards professionals. It costs almost half to get an unassembled printer than an assembled one and takes 2 or 3 days to assemble IF you know what you're doing. If you order an assembled one it's 3 to 4 months of waiting.
I wish multi tool head printers were cheaper as this method can waste a lot of filements and it's slower. Multiple tool heads are pricey for obvious reasons but WAY The printer has to be able to switch them itself, which can't be easy but it's way faster to swap tools heads with different color filement already in them then chance filements like the Bambu does. it's also much cheaper to make with Bambu's method though
What are you doing in Sweden?
youtube.com/@skapaallt
Try to lay the Bottle on the back , so the writing is only on the top layers . With multi color printing , orientation is very important .
Oh, you moved to Sweden? :P Well, howdy neighbour! :D I live in Denmark.. ^^
The cold plate are not pei. It is something else which PLA almost bonds to. So use glue so you don’t ruin it completely.
Bambu PETG really needs some work. I’ve never struggled so much with any filament before
Are you talking specifically about Bambu PETG or any brand PETG (overature, poly maker, ect...). This is by far the best printer for PETG I've used personally. With that said, it sticks to nozzles easily and usually has some minor imperfections on a print, usually stringing or some very small blob of filements getting stuck somewhere.
I assume you are "baking" or heating it in some way to remove moisture, correct? Preferably through a dedicated dryer because if not, that's most likely the issue. Outside carbon fiber, or any carbon fiber variant, PETG is the most hydroscopic filement that I'm aware of. I had some issues and threw it in a dryer for 4 or 5 hours and it printed perfectly. I know they say pretty much every filement has issues if it absorbs too much water from the air but PETG is the only one where I have noticed how huge of a difference it can make. I don't print a lot of CF though which I know is the worst. The humidity sensors in those dryers are also very cheap and inaccurate so always best to dry longer or put an accurate humidity sensor which is pricey.
The biggest issue for me, which may have something to do with your issue is the nozzle leaks or not properly wiping off filement (especially with PETG). If I don't home the printer before a print I can see the filament oozing out if the plate is half way down and also before a print. With PLA this isn't an issue but it is for PETG because the P1 nozzle wiper isn't great with PETG. Not sure about the X1 or A1, never used or seen one in action.
With the nozzle changes,
Their nozzle pack which is the nozzle with the fan and sensor premade, is much easier, just need to so the screws and plugs,
At most 3 mins
True but the extra nozzle sent with the printer has none of those things so unless he has bought one (or Bambu sent him one) it had to be done or order one and wait. I heard getting the clip on there can be tricky to go around the thermistor and hearing pad also.
Having the entire unit is super quick as you said but just the thermistor and heater cable is 20 bucks when I think a completely assembled hardened nozzle is just under 40 with the fan and cables.
nice video but don't use pc thermal paste on the hotend, it's not rated to get that hot
thanks for the heads up!
What made you move to Sweden?
youtube.com/@skapaallt
"Love is in the air" on a pill bottle 😅 You may want to ask Bill Cosby how that went. 😂🍻
New Home in Sweden? Thought you only was on vacation
Welcome! 😀
The vacation convinced me to stay! 😁
Just found you livestream about it all.. Looking forward for "events".. Living in Gothenburg.. Looking forward riding along your Swedish experiment :-) @@make.anything
I’m waiting so impatiently for their 2024 flagship 😩 release already!
Did Bambu labs announce a new flagship coming out?
they said the will give tickets to recieve the "2024 flagship" to the winners of a contest they had. so the only confirmation is the year not when. but yes. @@Docfly62
i'm hoping it's early this year not the end of the year >.
use yur leftover filament for resin work
Replace the thermal paste immediately! Best case scenario: you're gonna bake it into a powdery mess. There is a huge temperature difference between a CPU and FDM heat block.
My friend has a bambu labs printer and its so good print quality and auto leveling makes me want one myself
not printing a benchy as the first print voids the garantee i thought :D
Very pog
With them teasing a "2024 flagship printer" as the prize for the "best print of 2023" - hopefully the send you another combo shortly!
Välkommen! 🖖
Noise.... turn down chamber fan to 40 % ..... the Desiccant bags in the AMS, did you remove the plastic bags they came in ? The printer can dry filament in the chamber from factory ..... look in the Bambu Lab Wiki i never use glue stick on cool plate but 50-60 degrees on build plate instead 🙂
Most thermal pastes contain highly abrasive ceramics (nitrides etc.)
😣
That was definitely a carrot pressing the screen wasn't it 😂
I was trying to capture a feeling
Welcome to Sweden
Ohh you forgot the sock! You want that on the nozzle!
you should have tested the drying feature of the printer itself
Oh that's cool I wasn't aware of it! I wonder how energy efficient it is, considering the chamber is much larger than a 1 kg spool. Definitely good to know for when I want to dry a handful of spools at once!
@@make.anything i am curious on the feature myself but have not needed to test the feature yet. i will update if i end up using it
Oh wow, you moved to Sweden?
Oh yea!
Don’t print cf filled materials using the ams, the filament will eat the magnets in the ams
Noted!
PS: pc thermal paste is usually rated for 120c max
You're right... Boron Nitride Paste added to cart :P
@@make.anything if it's any help it won't be too bad, it'll just dry up and flake so I don't think it's a big deal?
Fun fact: you can actually dry filaments using the x1c
That failed print could be due to bad G Code
At 16:14. PLEASE DO NOT USE PC THERMAL PASTE ON YOUR HOTEND! They are not formulated to be able to handle such high temperatures. Use something like boron nitride thermal paste (I get mine from Slice Engineering) or thermal paste that is formulated to be able to handle at least 300-400 degrees celsius.
That pausing thing is probably bad Gcode.
Nice honest review. It’s just like all the other printers out there, nothing special.