Why I Failed To Climb Mount Everest Without Oxygen!
Vložit
- čas přidán 20. 06. 2024
- My reflection on my attempt to summit Mount Everest this year without supplemental oxygen. Why did I fail, why did I have to turn around, what did I do wrong and what did I learn one month after the expedition?
How do I adapt in the future learning from these mistakes in order to becomea better mountaineer and be successful on my next expedition?
Will I continue to climb 8000ers and what is my next project gonna be like?
This is my attempt to summit Mount Everest solo withou oxygen in 2024.
After Annapurna I and Lhotse without oxygen, this would be my 3/3 8000er without the use of supplmentary oxygen!
In this video I will take you with me to the South Col, Everest Camp 4, the Geneva Spur, Lhotse Camp 4, across the Yellow Band down to Camp 3 in the Lhotse Face, back to Everest Basecamp, down to Lukla and with the Helicopter to Kathmandu and finally back home to Europe.
I think it’s the consensus of the everyone here that you did not fail. Your decision to not continue was definitely the right one. So good to see you’re feeling better! Keep up the great videos!
Yeah you are right. Being a dead body on the mountain would be a failure, but also I did not succeed. But I am not mad at all, because I learned a lot and already became a better mountaineer than I was going into the expedition.
I live at sea level, so I can't handle 5ooo ft. You were so wise to listen to your body . Now you will know how to handle the next time. Stay positive it will happen ❤
Haha, yeah it takes a while to adapt from sea level but every human body can do it. I learned a lot from this expedition, which will help me to adjust and become better for the next big mountain! Greetings!
You didn't fail after all, you are a wonderful person👍✌️
Thank you for your kind words! Set backs let us grow the most!
For sure🫡
Yes he did, he failed. He had a goal and fell short, that’s a big FAIL! Get back to reality and stop the madness of the weak woke mindset. There are winners and losers in this life.
Better to be alive for the next try. all the best!!
Exactly! I will be stronger than ever! Thank you so much buddy!
Congrats man... Glad that you were aware of your limits and did not let adrenaline dictate over you. You are alive and soon you will be ready for the next attempt. Respect ❤
Thank you Hernan! It was a tought decision but I am not sad at all! I will train like a beast to be stronger in the future!
That's not a fail, it's a learning. You had sharp judgment instead of Gipfelrausch. Bravo to you
It’s a fail, stop the ridiculous everyone gets a blue ribbon crap, he FAILED that’s reality son, now he gets to try again.
Thank you buddy! I was afraid of my own courage, but I am happy that I was able to turn around. I can tell you I had a lot of fear, that I would not be able to do that and I was really afraid of death the days and weeks before.
You didn't fail,you just postponed the appointment😂
Greetings from Genoa to a Great Man
Haha, thats for sure! I will stand up there one day! Thank you so much! Greetings back to Genoa, beautiful city
Richard from NZ. You're a really great likable guy who isn't ego driven and you're very grounded and you'll climb Everest on your next trip there due to your learnings and increased wisdom at these very high attitudes. All good passionate people in mountaineering don't succeed many times until they finally do.....can't wait to see...
I enjoy all your videos
Thank you so much for your comment and your nice words Richard! I cant wait to visit NZ one day and climb Mount Cook / Aoraki! Being able to control my Ego, was one of my most important and biggest lessons I had to learn as a young solo mountaineer in my 20s. I was a completely relentless climber when I was younger and it almost got me killed one day, when I got captured by a fierce storm on the summit of Mont Blanc and I had to dig myself into the snow just below the summit to survive until the next day. It was a long and hard learning journey, but it made me become the climber I am today. Happy to hear, that you enjoy the videos! I will continue to take you guys with me!
I admire anybody who does try to climb without o2 because thats true mountain climbing but when your up that high it's better to listen to what your body is telling you. Hopefully you will have another chance. Always better to be safe.😮😊
Thank you so much! It is incredibly hard but so much more rewarding and my philosophy how a mountain should be climbed. It is the only way to truly experience the mountain and suffer to reach the summit. I will definately have another chance one day!
Congratulations on your achievements to date. Very inspirational. Looking forward to seeing future vlogs on your mountaineering experiences. Coolio
Thank you Johnbell! I will share my mountaineering journey of the past and future!
Much more of a climb, from the North Side of Everest! I heard this past climbing season, ( this year 2024 ) was perfect! Hardly, any teams, climbers had that side, of the mountain, all to them selves!
Yeah exactly! And you are right the weather seemed to be quite good until the mid of June this year.
Doing a debriefing of the situation for future planning is why you will maximize chances of achieving what you want to achieve in the future. In my opinion you already have made quite impressive achievements. I am so impressed with your ability to make excellent and life saving decisions in a situation where very few people are able to do that. For that alone you get my deep respect. But also for all the discipline and impressive climbing so far. I am looking forward to seeing more of your adventures. I hope lots of newbie climbers find your channel, it could actually save their lives to take on the realism and care and respect of life you demonstrate.
Hey, thank you so much for you comment and your kind words! If we dont reflect on what happened and if we are not able to see our mistakes, we will never be able to progress and become better at what we do and also we wont be able to develop as human beings. I love this about life in general, but thats also what makes the journey of a mountaineer so beautiful, rich and fulfilling. I think everyone can "almost" achieve anything, if they are not severely handicapped and if they are very passionate about it and are willing to put all the necessary hard work into it. It takes mostly discipline and a desire by heart to reach almsot anything in life. Thanks to comments like yours I will keep on sharing my story and continue to take you all with me! And you are absolutely right, hopefully more climbers understand, that it is ok to turn around and avoid death. Mountaineering is esepcially dangerous for young climbers in their 20s.
@@norrdinenouar That last sentence is especially eye-opening and mature. Obviously, climbers in their 20s seem to be the most capable, physically. But you just illustrated how much the mental aspect, maturity and experience is just as important, if not more. Bravo Sir. You will get there someday, and live to tell about it! I will be cheering for you!
I did watch this video with great interest.
You do share some interesting experiences and thoughts.
The way I see this is that you should consider your Everest expedition a success.
The experience and knowledge you brought with you down again will most probably be of great and perhaps decisive importance in the future.
And for us who follow you here on CZcams, it's cooler that you came down safe, instead of staying for good on Everest.
Hey Rinohals, you are absolutely right, the things you learn from these expeditions or "mistakes" are soo important and can be considered a "success" but yet, I still did not reach the summit, but its just a matter of time and hard work. To be honest with you it is probably quite important, that I did not succeed to climb Everest and had to turn around. If you have to much "success" in a row, I could run the risk of becoming fearless or overconfident. I think this lesson just happened at the right time and I needed this for my future climbs. So many good mountaineers, that are 100 times better than me died, because they were too "successful". Ueli Steck, David Lama, Jerzy Kukucka and many more... They thought they were invincible because of all the success they had.
Look in to organic spirulina as a protein powder, it's super high in vitamins and minerals also. Gram for gram, it will blow whey protein away for nutritional value. Admittedly it does not taste great, the best stuff comes from Taiwan. Looking forward to seeing your future content and I think everyone appreciates how diligent you are responding to the comments on your videos👍😀
Thank you Carl, I heard of spirulina but didnt know there is Protein Powder. Ill give it a try and see what I can add to make it more tasty! I think I am able to upload the next video tomorrow :D . I will try to keep up with the comments as good as I can :D
@@norrdinenouar
The organic Taiwanese spirulina I use contains 67g of protein per 100g. Whey protein is around 75-80g per 100g but lacks all the other good stuff spirulina contains. So I think it's totally viable as an effective food supplement for mountain endeavours. Just avoid the cheaper stuff from China as there may be heavy metal contamination in the product.
Really enjoyed your videos & I’m glad u made it back. So many people don’t listen to their bodies
Thank you so much buddy! Was a hard decision but I am not mad at all since I learned a lot! You are absolutely right sir, more people need learn this skill!
Watched this video closely and agree no mistakes were made and urge you and everyone to avoid the “failure to summit” concept as the better you become at extreme high altitude climbing the more times you will retreat - I ended up being long lined rescued off C3 in Ama Ama Dablam after summitting (not that it matters) but like you had just completed a perfect preparation climb - being fast and strong - and agree that “you never get better” at extreme high altitude. Bottomline, everyone has bad days and they happen to even the best climbers - lots of tiny little things that together make problems.
Thank you for your comment! Yeah, failure would be to die up there. But ultimately I did not succeed in summiting but I learned a lot and I am very thankful for this super important lesson. Wow, getting Long lined from Ama Dablam sounds scary. Glad to hear, that they were able to rescue you. Did you get sick because of the altitude?
Being alive isn't a failure, shows great decision making and maturity. I'm sure you will summit next time from your learnings. Love your videos. All the best
Thank you buddy! Yeah I will train like a beast to be successful the next time! Happy to hear that you enjoy the videos!
Very wise man, I respect your decision 100%.
Thank you Scotty!
👍you Save your life 👍 Great work my friend 🍀👍
Thank you so much for your comment! Life is beautiful, so I rather turn around!
And your channel is awesome!!
Thank you so much for all the love!
Norrdine so proud of your lifestyle. 100% true mountaineer with very personal storytelling. ~Willem
Willem! I never forget our time in Montenegro! Until today I am still convinced and tell the story many times that we drank the best coffee of my life there!. Thank you for your nice comment and your kind words! Maybe we will sea each other one day again!
I have been watching a lot of your content out of interest. I am not a mountaineer...but I have to applaud you for the very wise decision not to not to confront the Mt. in your weakened state and face the tragic consequences. Kudos... We love what you are doing
Hey, happy to hear that you enjoy the content! It motivates me and keeps me hyped to upload more of my journey to you! Well you can not always succeed and you have to respect either the mountain or the signs of your body. This is just how mountaineering is and it is a beautiful way to learn and to develop!
A great summary of what you need to change in order to have a better chance of success in the future. You have learnt a lot and as I was always told when I was younger you learn by your mistakes. That must have been a big disappointment that they didn't bring your tent. It sounds as though it was a culmination of factors that resulted in your not being able to summit. I read the book The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt about the successful 1953 Everest Expedition and in those days there was no airport at Lukla and they had a much longer walk to Base Camp. Looking forward to your future adventures. Take care.
Hey, thank you for your comment! Yes usually its a combination of factors and not just a single reason. This is how life works but especially this is the way of a mountaineer, we try, we fail, we learn, we adapt and ultimately become better as a mountaineer and as human beings! What the pioneers of 1953 did is unimaginable. The logistics and everything was so much harder. Just think about their gear and limited knowledge about the body, acclimatization or weather data we have today. Even though they climbed with Oxygen it was incredibly hard. The frist time I went to Lukla last year I arrived via Jeep further down in the valley and walked to Lukla.
i have a idea, bring some big sticks or your own tent, you MAY be able to create temporary bases by yourself if it is legal.
Haha, there you can do almost anything! Thank you for your comment. Next time Ill just make sure my tent is with my equipment :D
A bigger mistake is never trying, so good job. I enjoy hearing about your experiences
you are absolutely right! That is what makes our life so rich! Happy to hear, that you enjoy the videos!
We can hardly wait for the next adventure upward. You look great.
😅 I will have some smaller adventures for you in the near future, but the next very big adventure above 8000meters has to wait a little bit 😉
Good decision and congrats 🙌
Thank you ✌🏾
Failing? you are here still alive, able to tell your story and fight another day. congratz and good luck next time
Thank you so much for your comment! Yes failing would be if I died there, but still I did not succeed, but I will the next time!
Congratulations 👍.... I believe that 💯💪💯🙏 l wish you, next trip you're doing on the top in the worlds... Enjoying good dreaming
Hey Florenco my friend! Thank you so much for your kind words! Wish you the best! Greetings to Tanzania!
Your smart, you listened to your body !
Thank you! More people should learn how to listen to their body and act accordingly. A lot of people dont do that in their everyday life, even though our body has a clear message for us and sends us all the signs we need.
I am a new climber with peaks under 3k , I m looking for more challenging mountains but I m really a noob about gear. Can you do a video about choosing good boots for example?
Hey, there is already one video on my channel: czcams.com/video/6hKgv0DWzm0/video.htmlsi=pwnUyWaifIsHVJ4f I will take a look into it and make a video about gear for sub 3k mountains
Congratulations on your achievements to date. Very inspirational. Looking forward to seeing future vlogs on your mountaineering experiences. Coolio
You did not fail!!
Thank you Natali! :D
Legend ❤
Thank you so much!
Totally agree, Alpine style is the only way to go. But how does one avoid the crowds on Everest when 100's of people are there to climb it with a weather window of just a couple weeks?
Yeah, but most people dont want all the effort, they want just the summit picture as fast and as easy as possible thats it. To be able to climb Alpine style is a long journey and requires so much knowledge, skills and experience. It takes years to learn the necessary skills. About avoing crowds on Everest. I am dreaming about climbing the Hornbein Couloir one day in Alpine Style. Check out how Thomas Hornbein climbed it back then in 1963, absolute legend!
Thanks for sharing your evaluation of the summit attempt. Do you now know how long to stay at each elevation to optimize red blood cells along with muscle and fat? That would seem to be very challenging. Additionally, what guides are you required to use when in Nepal? Are you able to trek and climb on your own?
Hey buddy, it is pretty situational and very individual how every body and composition adapts to high altitude. There is still so much we dont know, but for researchers it is hard to find money to do more necessary research in the field. There are a lot of treks and mountains in Nepal where you dont need a guide at all. For example around Everest or Annapurna you dont need a guide. But if you go to Mustang for example a guide is mandatory. You can still climb any mountain alone by yourself.
I enjoy watching our videos and I try to understand you through CZcams translation.
Thank you buddy! Hope the transaction is working:D
BEAST!!!! 🦾
Thank you Bro! ✌🏾
No wonder most go to Seashore on Holiday, where Sea Level is best for People....
Going High toward the Sun not good, without SpaceSuit.
Yeah... it is intense up there and we really almost need a Space Suit
very nice my friend,
i love you i will
follow in your footsteps
Thank you buddy! As long as you prepare yourself and train hard you can do it if you are careful! But please dont die!
Sir Edmund Hillary has always said climbing with out O2 on Everest is insane
It is... especially back then, when there was so little knowledge compared to todays knowledge
You choose well,the mountain remains there..better to be alive and healthy
Yep, and I will come back stronger than ever. Mountaineering and life is about learning, adapting and developing
Every mountain is a risk. The question is not one about risk but about life and death, are you ready to die in pursuit of your goals?
Thank you for your question. It is not an easy one and very subjective and situational. I think as you can see by my style, that it is possible to minimize the risk of what you are doing, be making good and conservative decisions. But climbing mountains is dangerous and death is the possibility. But is a possibility everyhwere in life. I could die, any day driving to work or getting cancer living a life I do not enjoy. And as you saw I am not willing to die for my goals, but I am ready to go all out and take risks to reach my goals. But we are all free to decide how we want to live our life.
Which tent u have
It was a NoName Tent, which only weighed about 2kg. I will need a more professional lightweight tent for the future. I have a Vaude and a Salewa tent, but they are not specificly made for high altitude. In my Annapurna videos you can see the lightweight tent I used in more detail. It was from Red Fox I think
Do you think that to climb sans o2 is for everyone - if one prepares and gets fit enough and acclimatises enough they can also go without o2? Or do you think it is part of your genetic make up.
Hey, thank you for your question! My answer to this may be controversial to some people. It is already scientifically proven, that Sherpas have a special genetic combination, that helps them to perform hard tasks at high altitude. But genetics do not play a role at all for the rest of us. Reinhold Messner, Jerzy Kukuczka, other non oxygen climbers or myself dont have any special genetics that enable us to climb these mountains. It is all preperation, training, strategy and hard work. The most important factor is the amount of time you spend at high altitude and how much time you give your body to adapt. But also how often you are at high altitude and how used your body is to adapting to high altitude. By the way there is no correlation between physical fitness and the ability to acclimatize. Some studies even indicate, that overweight people seem to acclimatize easier than Marathon runners for example. I personally think the one and best strategy to acclimatize very well and climb 8000ers wihtout oxygen is Time, give your body enough time to adapt and do proper rotations to high camps and then go down again.
what watch are you wearing?
Garmin Descent Mk II, since I am also a Divemaster :D
@@norrdinenouar sick.
All nice and very bold to aim for solo climbs but please be careful how you plan out your expedition to the nearest detail and eventuality. Not like what David Sharp did and what happened to him. So sad he became his own victim with no help from others who walked past him. Granted at that height rescue is not easy.
You are absolutely right and the death of David Sharp was a tragedy. If you need to be rescued up there you already made a significant mistake and should have turned around before. I will do my best to be as careful as possible! :D
You used good judgment to turn around and go down. People die by climbing up when they feel weak, they collapse and put the Rescuers at risk.
You nailed it! People need to learn how to listen to your body and overcome their ego.
Everest has become a joke. I do not respect the chaos it has become. There is no authenticity and heart in the mountain anymore. I like what you’re describing with the smaller expeditions alpine style.
Yeah... it is a huge mess right now and definately going into the wrong direction. I would love to see the sport change for the better.
Sounds like you won life🤷🏻♂️ now you can try again instead of beeing another body
Exactly man! Our planet has so many beautiful things to offer! It is a great time to be alive!
Can't be successful every time dude.👍
Yep, and actually we dont get better by succeeding all the time... we develop the most, when we fail