Making an Oud perfume step by step (FORMULA INCLUDED)
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
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My previous video on Oud: • Guide to Oud notes whe...
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Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
00:41 - Initial perfume concept
05:01 - Understanding the formula better
08:10 - Perfume trial 2
12:48 - Perfume trial 3 (Final Oud Perfume)
15:57 - Perfume trial 4 (Oud, Rose & Bergamot)
20:18 - Perfume trial 5 (Oud, Rose, Mandarin & Pink Pepper)
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
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That addition of the black pepper was an interesting turn. Trial 3 could almost be a fragrance from Comme de Garcon. 😄
Well that’s a complement since I like some of their perfumes…
I was thinking black pepper would make a nice addition too, and then he said it, and I was like, that's weird. Haha.
this is the video i needed to see! thank you!
Great video as always. I’ve been working on an oud compo lately too. So this video came at the right time
Good luck with your oud project!
This guy here is one of the best out there! Much respect
Thank you!
Amazing video as always Sam! You put this video out just in time for my shipment of new materials including oud Givco to come tomorrow haha cheers 🤝🤝
Fantastic!
Dude, you have a gift! Thank you!
I have no idea, but I like you and find your interest in scent fascinating.
Really interesting video, thanks Sam 👌
Thanks!
Thanks Sam, great video!
Thanks!
Thank you for sharing lot of information and very clear manner.
Thank you
Thank you! I enjoy these fragrance builders you do as it is not just being creative with aromas, but intuitive problem solving as well; I could almost anticipate while you're talking what might be added next just as you state it! Just as well, considering a material to try that has not been thought of. For instance though anticipating rose just as you did, consider Lauric, Clonal, in traces alongside Dorina); Ajowan and Labdanum might certainly be part of any Oud theme. Honey essence to counter vanilla, that I imagine contributes to the unwanted softness.
Thanks, glad you enjoy this style! And yes I can only scratch the surface of possible combinations in these videos but that’s why I left the formula for you to continue with it yourself!
@@sammacer Hello again! (Please excuse my comment that may be too long) This may seem to many an off-putting subject one that perfumers generally don't explore. 'Musks' are often discussed in a very general way as a class of scent normally associated with 'animals' esp. mammals. However the fact that Humans are mammals and too have extremely variable, complex and distinct odors (for the purposes of this discussion we might call 'pheromonic' or more tastefully 'erogenous') at least, I have not yet heard specific to perfumery any mention of except as a subject on its own or in one or more classic 'occult' texts (Odoratus Sexualis, Iwan Bloch 1933, for example). And while we tend to eschew the notion of human odors (much less reproducing or wearing them as perfume), the fact remains that human odors are probably the most prevalent odors we encounter on a daily basis, from the moment we are born, that are treated as contrary to the whole point of perfumery from the start; and yet there are natural and aroma chemicals that can be or have been compared to human odors of one kind or other.
Cassifix for instance to me smells distinctly of heavy armpit sweat; Valerian has been described as smelling of sweaty socks, and natural Ambergris compared to 'halitosis'. Freshly brewed coffee has a particularly pleasant 'menstrual' scent when captured remotely, and any number of scents can be compared to human hair. Patchouli is the premier odor of such acquired taste that otherwise might be described as a 'public toilet', if we ever allowed our subconscious mind to remind so of any or all of these
I hope my comments are relevant enough to provoke some interest and consideration. I'd be happy to hear thoughts on the subject. Thank you again for all of your help and excellent tutelage!
Should have experimented with some iris in there! Im so tired of the oud/rose combo. Great video!
Nice process boss!
Class dismissed…
@@sammacer 🤣
Congratulations. Great Job. All the best -
Thanks!
We cherish this a lot , keep it up .
Thank you so much. I love it and God bless you.
Loving your videos and very much appreciate the amazing information you've put together on your channel. Thank you so much! I'm a very beginner and I was looking to get some raw materials (per your recommendations) and in reading the Safety Data Sheets, some were mentioning things like : (avoid breathing vapor or dust) or (Acute toxicity inhalation category 4) etc. Does that mean that some of the perfumery raw materials can be dangerous to smell straight out of the bottle? Do they need to be handled with a mask until diluted properly? It has scared me off a little. Would love your advice on safety measures and whether the safety data sheets are over dramatizing the practical reality of it. Thanks for your help :o)
Thanks! Have a read of this article: www.science.org/content/blog-post/un-safety-data-sheets
Thanks Sam, I’m still at the crawling stage of perfumery but this video shud help with a the first step.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thank you
Great video!
Thanks :)
Tanks for the vídeos, amazing!
Haver you ever considered making an tobacco Accord vídeo?
No because it would be very difficult; you would normally use tobacco absolute as far as I know
I believe it is a really high quality product.
Thanks again Sam
Thanks!
can we get a guide on making seductive fragrances? ive always wondered what are the fundamentals and how can i develop them to my liking. love the channel btw
Thanks! Weather you can develop fragrances to be seductive touches on psychology and it’s not an area I’m experienced in so I can’t say I can help
when you said bergamot, i choked on my drink lol. i would like to give the rose and oud a littlite amber and keep it simple
I actually have an Oud and bergamot blend and it smells wonderful.
Brilliant👏
Hey Sam! You are doing an excellent job by spreading your knowledge.
Would like to know, what is the better diluter for Essential oils? DPG or Alcohol?
For EOs to be diluted 10%
Thanks and Regards
For me I use dpg a lot for blending and trials since it does not evaporate and my dropper bottles are not the most airtight!
Speaking of incense smelling things I keep accidentally making those when I use sandal wood and ethyl malt ok together. Albeit there is usually a bunch of other crap I throw in there, but that combo in particular tends to smell like nag champa incense which I love but not at all what I was going for haha
Interesting - I think nag champa is based around sandalwood so it has a tendency to do that
The only agar material I have is black agar and I noticed cashmeran in it as well. I had just got to know cashmeran a bit then tried to use black agar a bit later and that was a note I had taken from it. I love cashmeran
I think I read it went well with muscenone or something as well if I remember correctly
For sure black agar givco has a musky side to it, I’m certain some musks are included
GOOD,I AM INTERESTED TO YOU.THANKS
Frankincense, Oud and citrus 🍊 nice 😊
Please I want to ask a question, I appreciate the formulation. Can you make a video of making a perfume, not just the notes formulation.
Saffron blends really well with Oud fragrance as well. But use gently it's very powerful and just a bit adds a wonderful complexity
Great point, I’ve been noticing that more recently
ahh, y'all did it
:) nice mixture, can I buy that perfume from you. It sounds very artistic and special. trial version 3
Great seeing your thought process when your modifying the different iterations. really valuable. Did any version smell like Oud and Spice by Acqua di Parma? (if you've smelt it)
Glad you enjoyed seeing the process! And I haven’t smelled it so I couldn’t compare
I have found your channel and trust me the work you did from last 2-3 years exceptional "hatsoff to you"
Quick Question
Can we add natural materials to compunds to create something ?
Supoose i want to add vetiver oil to a compund will it possible if so can you make a video " how we can use natural oils with compunds to crete a new perfume "
Thank you! And yes, you can use natural just like any other raw material and blend them together.
@@sammacer thank you Sam, i really wish to collaborate with you one day .....
Where do you get your raw material (the different oils used for blending) from?
Fascinating.
Maybe some coffee a dark roast in there .
When making perfume should one use milligrams measurement only or if making a bigger batch can we use oz?
HI Sam,
Just wanted to appreciate your efforts in showing us how we can make perfumes. I have watched a few of your videos and find them quite informative. You put me onto Pell Wall and other places where we can get the real aroma chemicals, so thanks for what you do.
I have a question, with the oud perfume trial number 3 and numbers 5, how much would all those ingredients cost, roughly?
Thank you! That’s not something I’ve calculated it you could look up all the costs on Pell Wall or another place
@@sammacer thanks for responding
What I do is create a atomizing specialty accord, you can always convert drops to grams if you so wish. Which consists of Cedramber, Cistus 10%, Nagarmotha, Guaiacol 5% & Jessemal Jessmonyl. It does turn out very reminiscent of Vietnamese Agrarwood OUD, like to the untrained nose you probably wouldn't notice much difference from the real thing. So it will turn out quite animalic, woody & a little phenolic & floral. It's not going to be quite as strong and in all honesty you don't really want it that strong anyway.
Really intormative, thank you. One thing i still don't understand is in the formulas on your tablet you have grams of all the ingrediënts and next to it the percentages but all percentages only add up to 10% does that mean the remaining 90% will be perfumers alcohol? Or dont you add any alcohol at the end because all ingrediënts are already diluted in 10% dilutions? Can you please explain what the other 90% will be so i can make this?
someone asked this in a similar comment after looking "So, you diluted every component into 10% before using? i normally use most components at 100% but Aldehydes (or aldehyde strong like materials like Adoxal, Ultrazur) and Absolutes, is it better?"
which he answered with
"It’s a different way of working, there are advantages and disadvantages to it"
Very good
Can you recommend me websites or suppliers where i can buy the essential oils or raw materials for making perfumes.
Hey! Your videos are great great help. I was wondering what could I use to improve the longevity of the perfume, aside from adding resins in the base. I can't seem to get a good longevity :(
Thanks! Check out my video on increasing longevity :)
@@sammacer Will search for it! ❤️
So... I have no desire to make my own smells... but I really want to try this after watching the whole video. Any chance you'd sell me a bottle of this? 😂
Hi analysis had a perfume made how do I send a sample for analysis thanks
I just rewatched the video, i have the Oud Synth by Firmenich, thinking of adding adiluted Abrocenide to make the oud stronger, i feel all the oud bases are a bit weak compared with the real thing, and ambrocenide might make my oud accord stronger, what do you think about adding it in small quantities to pump it up?
Why not?
I found Oud Synth to be interesting in that it’s a pretty clean, scrubbed Oud. Smells to me almost identical to Kilian Pure Oud. I like the more leathery barnyard elements of Oud so I’m going to see what I can do with Oud synth to achieve that. I might just end up going with a different Oud base.
Where I can get OUD SAMRAT/ OUD OLIFFAC ? I contact Firmenich they don't supply in India in small quantities
Where did you buy most of your material from?
Wouldn't be better idea to start small, with like 2-4 ingredients and only then try more complex mixture?
Is there a link to these formulas in pdf for formulaire?
Hey Sam! I hope you’re doing well i just had a question. I noticed when you’re showing the formula pretty much all of your materials are diluted, but when I look at say the fragrance demo formulas on a place like Good Scents or Fragrance Drama their formulas seem to have only a few select ingredients diluted and the others aren’t specified as diluted.
Is there a reason for this?
Yes. Their formulas are written as if you make them pure and dilute them down to your desired strength afterwards. I dilute down first since it helps dosing small amounts so there's no need to dilute down again afterwards.
@@sammacer thank you for the clarification sam! I’m just really struggling with the maths and science component of perfumery but your videos and comments really help!
Nice content My dear, how you create a perfume with Smoke, rose & spicy fragrance..
Thanks - you probably want to learn some of the principles of perfumery first and then it will come intuitively
Trial 3 top noted should have been cardamon/saffron
I agree those would have been great
HOW MUCH WE HAVE TO ADD ALCOHOL IN 100 ML OUD PERFUME SPRAT?
Can you make a video on making an oud accord? Instead of using bases
No - the reason for using the bases is that it’s near impossible to make an good oud accord without access to a lab and research budget
What does that percentage in brackets means after every materials?
That’s the predilution which has been used - check my video on dilutions if you’re unsure about those
Can I use oud oil rather than synthetics? I have a gorgeous Papua New Guinea Oud from Oxford oud and I would love to make something with white/pink/blue lotus, tuberose,(maybe jasmine), vetiver, galbanum, chocolate and this oud oil. Will be a unisex perfume and I'm really wanting to expand my wearing florals beyond the rose/oud range.
For sure you can use real oud instead! I’m sure you could make something lovey with all of those oils
@@sammacer thank you so much for replying. I'm getting a lot of great information from your videos. Im a retired chef and mixing fragrances seems like a natural progression for me.
@@EsoxLVCIVS6776hey how did you get on making your perfume? It sounded very promising.
There is nothing wrong with it not being a very complex oud formula. After smelling Tom Ford Oud it is pretty much just oud smelling. Not much else to it it seemed.
I think a lot of people like that kind of thing
I'm dealing with Oudh from India
What will be the top notes, heart notes and base notes in this perfume ?
The peppers and mandarin would be top notes, rose and cedar mid notes, most of the others are base notes.
So, you diluted every component into 10% before using? i normally use most components at 100% but Aldehydes (or aldehyde strong like materials like Adoxal, Ultrazur) and Absolutes, is it better?
It’s a different way of working, there are advantages and disadvantages to it
@@sammacer Thank you for answering
Where do you get your raw materials (the different oils used for blending) from please?
Perfumer's apprentice and Pell Wall mostly
I bought Oud EO which was pretty expensive. Can I use that to make the perfume. I was searching on how to use it. TIA
Yea you can
Can you make a video about how to start a perfume business?
What areas specifically?
@@sammacer for beginners and who just wants to try for fun
What’s you dilute the phenylethyl alcohol with? I see (10%)
Ethanol
Cool
Thanks for sharing your ingredient. If I would like to make my own perfume, will you be able to create one and what is your contact?
My contact links are in the video description
I would love to learn a class from you
I'm currently working on one
Why do you use less grams of base notes when they are supposed to be used more cause their base notes.
BENZOIN WHERE YOU AT ?
Haha well I chose to break the amber “rule” and replace it with styrax as a creative choice
I would so much like to know, if you sometime play around, create a scent and than think "wow, that could be from a real brand" Or is it like beginning a new hobby like painting? Like i imagine starting and right away will create something great. Will it be like that? haha
No it’s far more like painting! When I started nothing smelled professional.
@@sammacer that’s so sad to read :/ how long did you take to make a scent, that smell niche pro like ?
I absolutely adore the automatic captions on the preview screen. The very idea of smelling some nudes...
Lol
Theory without practical is a castle in the air.
Would you recomend direct pcw?
I haven’t used them so can’t comment
They have very good Ac’s, I highly recommend them.
The formula sheet isn't clear
What part isn’t clear?
WHy not you please share a Android Version also
who is making this pls comment here🤚👇
oud means old
so the smell of old wood
Etymology of *oud* (n.)
"lute or mandolin of Arab lands," 1738, from Arabic 'ud, literally "wood." Compare lute.
Hey Sam, ive been watching your videos for a while. I think it would be interesting using chatgpt to generate perfume. I have generated almost 36 perfumes so far. You would be amazed at the results if you learned how to setup the contextual information for an advanced generation. I recently hosted a party to test these results and so far 30 of those perfumes had an approval rate of 70%. 25 of which had an approval rate of 90%. I am about to start branding and release these in dubai where i am from, and where perfume culture is absolutely culturally viral, and religiously encouraged. Lets hop on a call soon, i can potentially teach you how i setup context using chatgpt. Im sure that with your way more advanced knowledge on perfumery, you can use it to your advantage even more so, than me. PS: it is not entirely generative but it does help suggest balances, and probabilities which i have found very accurate. Best, the kashm.
Outsourcing art to AI is creative suicide.
You say that in Dubai, perfume is "culturally viral, and religiously encouraged".
If this is so, why do you wish to destroy your culture?
@@gwendolenchelm6637 i despise this youtube culture of feeling like you need to give an opinion which shuts down someone elses opinion over baseless ground. I want to ask though: have you tried the method? are you aware of what goes on in trying to generate perfumes using ai? have you read my comment which was directed to him accurately? i say that it can help. Whats wrong with people now a days.
@@gwendolenchelm6637 also big companies are using AI do some research.
Interesting suggestion! However I don’t really see the benefit since Chat GPT is meant for conversations not formulation right? Correct me if I’m wrong.
@@sammacer thats inaccurate; there are some benefits like extracting information from books. As well as, formulating perfumes, or remaking some popular perfumes. As long as you include the correct info. Ive spent around 100 hours on it teaching ,and learning from ai. So i have a special approach to this.
Alcohol… HARAMDA
talks a lot, and is still learning as well so way too soon to teach, let s say he is sharing so do not take his words for truth
Everyone is still learning so by that logic no one should ever be teaching anything
@@sammacer nah, you re a noob it is obvious, u should not be teaching yet, you will agree later on in your life when you ll watch your videos, no offense brah
Please dub your voice in hindi language respect from India 🎉
Brilliant vid Sam keep it coming mate 🤝 where did you purchase the dreamwood base I’ve been after that and how strong is it at 10% lasting wise
Thank you! I got mine from www.harrisonjoseph.co.uk
oud samarat contain more than 30% cashmeran and 30 % iso e super
I want to get these raw materials and follow along, but I'm having difficulty finding them all even in the link you provided. Are there any perfume ingredient suppliers in the US that you know of that carry these scents you are playing with? Thank you!
Try perfumers apprentice