Attempting Huge RV Repairs with Zero Experience
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- čas přidán 22. 05. 2024
- Is this a big No-No? How far is too far when it comes to repairing an RV camper on our own? I have zero experience, but I am attempting to do a complete brake change on my RV. I hope this is safe. Today, everything is documented from start to finish. Tune in to see an untrained rookie attempt to fix his RV alone.
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Dude word from the wise, pack your wheel bearings from the open side only so that when you see your new grease coming out the small side you know all voids are filled. If you pack from both sides before it is full you run the risk of an air pocket or an area void of grease. Your wheel bearing nut should be tightened then back it off to insure the bearings are seated properly. Hand tighten with your fingers is NOT enough! Have a great Memorial Day!!!
My thoughts exactly, just a slight bearing preload then back off.
Was just about to say the same thing.
Also need to put more grease on the spindle. While packing your bearings, rotate them so all surfaces are covered.
Correct that's how you pack them ... thanks !!
Buy a bearing packer.
Hey guys just a couple tips from an rv tech and inspector here. When you put that Grease seal in, do NOT use a hammer. Use a piece of wood like a 2×4 and hammer on that. It will distribute the blows evenly to the seal. When using a hammer, you run the risk of damaging it. And another very important one, when putting on the castle nut, you want to torque it to 50 ft lbs then back it off and then hand tighten it. This will seat everything properly.
Whoa Nelly!!! As many people have said your "finger tight" nut will NOT be enough and will be dangerous for you and others. You have not seated the bearings properly and the entire apparatus is going to loosen and wobble. If you leave it as is you will likely ruin the spindle, bearings, and potentially could have the wheel "freeze up" and potentially even fall off when driving. Currently it is not safe! I would stop wherever you are at and take the time to resolve this error. It will take you no time at all to remove the tire/grease cap and tighten the nut until you feel a marked increase resistance when spinning the drum. Then slowly back the nut out (lefty loosey) while turning the brake drum. The brake drum should turn freely as the nut is loosened. It usually takes about 1/4-1/2 turn out to free up the drum. You may also consider replacing the remaining drums/bearings sooner than later. The money you are saving now is going to haunt you later and likely at a time when it is less convenient to repair. Last advice - use shrink wrap over the crimp connectors to keep moisture out of the crimp connection. Moisture plus current will rust out the connection. For areas under a vehicle and near the tires where water is thrown all over the wires I usually solder the connections and double up on the shrink wrap. Good luck and be safe!
Good job! Love your channel. Take kenttalcot8428 advice. You really need to seat those bearings.
I was taught that with new bearings you should tighten nut down till you can’t turn hub to make sure bearings are seated properly then back nut off. Have safe travels and a good Memorial Day
I second this, spin the wheel and tighten until it stops. Then back off slowly until it free spins.
100% true. Also check them after driving the first time after repair.
Correct, I used to work on flatbed trailers in the Army...need to seat the bearings. Sorry, truly hope there are no issues.
This week I watched "a different RV couple" get a high end inverter and high end lithium batteries installed on their high end RV by a high end shop (and probably didn't spend any of their own money in the transaction) and I watched the Hanks(es) swap out their own brakes and bearings.
Guess which video appealed to me more?
I know exactly who you're talking about, I watched them too. I like them, but yeah, I don't think they're paying for any of that stuff either. And they look like they got the money to buy it themselves . Yeah the Hanks are getting it done all on their own. I would love to afford lithium batteries and solar panels and the whole shebang . Ain't nobody giving anything to me for free👍🇺🇲
KYD?
You are right. They didn’t pay for it. You did by watching their video. CZcams money.
@@JakeDerr1450 That and product placement (which is CZcams money of a different color).
@@sneidsontheroad yes
Invest $15-$20 to buy an infrared thermometer, and check the temps of all your wheel hubs from time to time. If there's any problem with bearings or brakes, it first shows up as extra hot wheel hubs. You can head off expensive problems.
FYI, to pack bearings by hand: put some greese in your palm (as you said) you only pack from the large side, keep packing till you see it come out the small side of the bearing. The grease will push all the way through the bearing, removing all the air with greese.
And yes, once the hub is put back on, don't over pump grease. If you do, it will drip on the inside and get on your new break shows.
Overall, you scored a 9 out of 10.
Wow! Y'all really opened yourself up for the comments on this one, didn't you? I'm a 60-year-old woman and me and one of my other 60-year-old woman friends do a lot of this kind of stuff on our vehicles and around her ranch. We watch a few CZcams videos and then just kind of take a little bit from everything. Nothing we've done has broken or killed us yet. So... Take all the "you have to do it this way!" comments with a grain of salt. I'm not saying they are wrong, I'm just saying there's more than one way to skin a cat. Y'all are freaking awesome and I get so excited on Thursdays when your videos come out.
Sir, you put that nut on wrong. You need to tighten with Channel Locks (push down hard) or a nut driver to push the bearings/hub into place fully. Then back the nut off and hand tighten. You can get the manual from Dexter Axles (Service manual) which will walk you through this whole process.......I'd hate to have you burn up your axel and bearings or have a major wheel problem......Stay safe you two!
You have no clue how many times we've pulled out of the campground and forgot to get the trash out of the truck bed. I've been a mechanic my whole life, I love seeing people step out of their comfort zone and try fixing things themselves. It's not rocket science, If i can learn to do it, any body can. Great video guys.
You guys really need to get some jack stands for something like this. Relying on the hydraulic jack to keep the trailer in an elevated position over time is dangerous...if a seal blows it will collapse suddenly and if you're under it at the time, you're going to have a very bad day. Use the bottle jack to raise the trailer, but it raised with jack stands. Good call re: breaker bar. One more benefit that you didn't mention is that a breaker bar never runs out of battery juice.
Good job. FYI: Your wire butt-end connectors have a built in heat shrink to prevent water intrusion.
Yeah I noticed they didn't do that either.
You need to tighten the nut with a wrench while spinning the hub to seat the bearings, then loosen it, and tighten it until it is snug without moving the hub. After you have the clip on spin the hub then check for play in the bearings by trying to rock the drum. There should be little or no movement.
There is no need to fill the hub up with grease using the zerk fitting.
Please please check this again. At least jack the trailer up again with the leveler and see if both side feel the same. Wobble it. I agree the wheel bearings are not set/tightened correctly
Yes! I hope they see your comment!
Gary, things have changed a bit. That fitting fills the center of the shaft and comes out at the rear bearing. So you spin the wheel and pump the grease into the zerk and it fills the rear bearing the whole void and the front bearing. You still want to fill the bearings by hand initially, but in a year you can just remove rubber cap, pump the fitting and pump fresh grease into the bearings without taking them all apart.
Use your weight when loosening those lugs with the breaker bar instead of trying to pull. Great video as usual!
Oh and also put a substantial amount of extra grease inside the hub between the bearings as well. That way it will feed the bearing when it gets hot and actually recirculate the grease. something we learned in school
Carl, You really need to seat the new bearings after repacking them. Per Dexter you need to tighten the nut while spinning the hub by hand and you reach about 50 ft/lbs of torque. While holding the hub from spinning loosen the spindle nut just slightly so you can retighten by hand before placing the nut retainer back on. Failure to do this will result in the tire and hub to wobble on the bearings causing premature wear of the bearings, tires, and brake pads.
Also, it was great to meet you guys in person while in Valdez, AK. We really liked the photo of my wife and I with you.
I did my Dexter axles years ago, and although I don't remember the exact torque number, this sounds exactly how I did mine.
Out of all the RV living YT channels, I relate to yours the most. All the DIY'ing that you do to save money and also be able to say, "Check out what I just accomplished!" While there's bound to be minor setbacks and post-fix moments of, "Oops, I should have...", it feels so satisfying when a self-done job is a great success! Well done, Hanks!!
Y’all make a great pair. I always enjoy watching your adventures.❤
State parks and COE campgrounds are awesome.
I decided to change the front wheel bearings on our 36ft class A
I did it. I needed 2 day to recover physically
The PB blaster helped more than you think. That stuff is a miracle worker on rusted/stuck bolts and nuts. They also make a tool that you set the bearings in to grease them. It's not to expensive and does a better job than hand packing.
In their insistence, PB blaster did nothing for them.
Of course it did nothing when they just shot it on the outside of the Chrome lug nuts. It needs to get down to the base and the stud where the rest is occurring. There's actually a great CZcams video called "project farm" and he does great videos on everything from rust inhibitors to the best cordless tools. He has a great one on different penetrating oils. Most of them do nothing. As I recall the candle wax did the best.
@@maxpower9848 PB blaster did NOTHING for them in any way. It wasn’t rust holding the nuts on, it was torque…. 🤦
Hey there hanks! I’ve been watching your videos for a while now, and just got my new grand design imagine TT. Thank you guys so much for lighting the way into a life I’ve always dreamed of having. Leaving the sticks and bricks behind and exploring the world. Happy travels friends. ~The Highlander
To squeeze the break controller works if you start loosing the rig in a back and forth motion…tap to straighten out…..very important to know!!!
Fifth wheels don’t have much if any side to side “wagging” compared to bumper pulls. But yes, tapping the trailer brakes will stop it. Also, load distribution is the biggest cause. Not enough tongue weight normally. 10% of the load for bumper pulls.
When the drums come off, use Brake Cleaner and spray the brakes and the drum. Clean all the old grease off the spindle as well.
As a bearing sales professional for over 44 years, I would like to kinda echo/refute some of the comments so far: first, you should clean the bearings and check them for any pitting or scratches on the rolling surfaces- INCLUDING the bearing races which are inside the drum. If they look fine, just clean them further and put back on. I did not see you replace those races, and I highly doubt that the hubs came with them, and replacing just the bearing cones (the part that has the conical roller bearings) is not considered good practice. Now, the finger-tight issue: if you're not replacing the bearings or removing the races, then it's still a good idea to tighten up the retaining nut after spinning the hub a few turns, then backing the nut off a bit. As bearings heat up, they will expand and they need that little bit of play to allow that. And you definitely want to tighten them good before backing off when you do replace the races so they seat properly in the hub.
The other issue I saw was greasing the grease zerk on the spindle. I don't know exactly what that is greasing, but you DO NOT want to fill the entire hub up with grease! Grease retains heat, and believe it or not, more bearings fail from OVER-greasing than they do under-greasing. I had a 37 foot toyhauler that came with "Bearing Buddies", and one of the service centers I took it in for service before a trip decided to unload what seemed to be a 120 lb keg of grease into the 6 wheels, and wound up filling the entire hub AND brake assembly. This was one a significant trip where we were 1,000's of miles away and I had to spend almost $2,000 to have everything replaced by a local shop (they went through 2 cases of brake cleaner just to clean up the mess!).
Also, DO NOT handle bearings with your bare hands. The oils on your skin will cause corrosion and may lead to premature failure. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Hey guys, quick note on brake controls:
Your truck has a progressive brake controller and will only apply a fraction of the gain as you press the brake pedal.
It is really important to set the brake controller gain correctly so the full brake capacity is available in case of an emergency stop.
There are some great CZcams videos out there on setting your gain, check em out.
You guys rock, thanks for making awesome videos!
Dad always said to tighten the bearing nut tight then back up one cotter pin slot.
That high torque impact wrench should have been able to take those lugs off, make sure the battery is charged or check to see if the battery failing, a bad battery can weaken an impact by a lot. It's an older 3ah battery, so I would replace it. Also Impacts have more torque in reverse than forward so you can't tighten a bolt to where the same impact can't get it off.
As an Army mechanic, who changed many hubs, tires etc.. this brings back memories. 130 pound girl trying to break loose or torque 300+ lb torque was a challenge and I often grabbed help from the bigger guys! Good and not so great memories! But always fun learning and accomplishing tough challenges!! Just a suggested… grab a rubber mallet for tapping in the seals and if you do this often get some seal presses to tap on the seals evenly! Less chance of marring them.
A block of wood larger than the seal works well for me.
@@davidgates1122 yes. I’ve used those many times 😁
Hey Sister! Thanks for your service!!! I was heavy equipment mechanic in the Seabees.
@@seabeevet9285 Thank YOU for yours as well sister ☺️
Awesome team work!! Have a great weekend!!
WD40 is "water displacement". Not a penetrating oil at all though it does help. Nothing like PB Blaster. Good job!
Great job Hanks!! Happy Camping and Safe Travels ❤️❤️🙏🏻🙏🏻
You guys are awesome. I finally got around to doing my RV air flow upgrade. Thank you for the 15% discount. Safe travels.
So glad you did! Better before the crazy heat comes!
You should also put grease on the axle surface that the seal rides on and coat the seal lips with grease. Use a piece of wood over the seal to hammer the seal in vs hitting the seal with the hammer.
Thank you for the VOD. 👍👍
Thank you for sharing this week about brake replacement. Love the DIY spirit!
I'm so impressed with how well y'all work together.
THE NUT PRE LOAD! Word from the wise,, When you get a chance, recheck and readjust those wheel bearings. They WILL loosen up after they seat in. a tiny bit of loose is a WHOLE
LOT BETTER than tooooo tight. Im very happy to see you tackling those DIY repairs. You know its broke, just get into it and THEN, if its over your head, then call help. Like they all say; Google is your friend. Oh,, order extra of those grease cap rubber plugs. Thet do deteriorate and rip.
Good times brought to you by the Hanks. Safe travels
"The wheels are still on, so that's a plus."
😆
Proud of you two doing the brake repairs. Have a happy MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND and be safe out there!
Congratulations on getting some maintenance done yourself. 🎉🎉🎉
Other folks have mentioned that impact guns come in a variety of sizes/power, from under 100 ft/lbs to over 1000 ft/lbs, so having the right gun for the job makes a big difference. But, like you said, mechanics sometimes over torque things by a lot. I’d recommend loosening all of them before needed and retightening them to the proper torque, so the right impact gun will work next time. It’s just much quicker in a roadside emergency situation.
Outstanding teamwork Hanks!!! Pat yourselves on the back. ❤
We really love the state parks in AZ. Catalina, Fool Hollow lake, Catalina, Picacho, and Kartchner Caverns are our favorites.
Love your videos!
Another great video. I've repacked lots of bearings in my life and I thought you guys did a great job! Nicely done Hanks!
Look at you guys being all self sufficient.
Kyle you and Renee did a great job. It’s always good to see others making their own repairs. Keep up the great videos and good and safe travels.
Easier on your back when trying to break them loose by using your foot instead. Line the bar out parallel to the ground and step on it with 1 foot. Helps more if you have a pair of boots on. The spindles with the grease fitting in them can be trouble long term. Spindles have been cracking through the drilled passage way and breaking off
My advice to you from my dad who was a car and truck mecanic for 40 years, my dad would tight the bearing very tight and then turn back on it a quarter turn. It was always perfect.
Good on you for tackling this. I did the same for my front class c motorhome brakes. I have been doing my car brakes for years but doing such a large vehicle was scary at first and I was terrified to do the bearings. It’s such a sense of accomplishment when you finish though. Whoever last installed the wheels used lock tite on the bolts so I had to take them to the mechanic to have them removed. So annoying. Lots of CZcams videos and research. I learned the hard way with my car to always check torque specs for every bolt you install and yeah what everyone said about the grease and bearings.
You should go ahead a install disk brakes. Best add on ever. A breaker bar works great but a pump pipe works great and cheaper
Absolutely love your cojones on attempting this.....oh and putting out for the world to see. It really does inspire us all to do a little research and give it a go!! Thanks Hanks! 😊
Hey Hanks. Great job replacing your breaks and new bearings. I love watching your videos. Your videos are helping people save money showing them they can do it themselves. Great job!!!!!!
Next time, remember if they're giving you trouble.. Cold wheel studs, warm lug nuts.
Great video on the brakes I've done brakes for over 50 years and couldn't have explained it better. Awesome video Grandpa Jack
You guys didn't seat the bearings! Maybe you didn't show it? That could lead to early failure of your bearings.
You're supposed to tighten the spindle nut to a specific torque while turning the hub, then back it off and retighten by hand. You can usually get away with tightening the nut until the hub is hard to turn, then back off the nut and retighten by hand.
I love watching you all ❤❤
You should be using both a breaker bar and impact wrench, each for slightly different purposes. For larger fittings that are just torqued high, use the b-bar. For medium to smaller stuff that is corroded, you can use an impact to break some semi-seized fittings. To put a lot more leverage on the breaker bar, just slide a 5-foot snipe (steel tube) over it.
I remember disassembling 3-inch flare lines to flare pits on oil drilling sites (before you needed to use flare stacks) with a couple of 48-inch pipe wrenches and a ten-foot snipe on the moving one. Reach as high as you could and pull down with your full weight to break the bonded thread from all the heat cycles. In a shop you might want to give it shot of acetylene heat, but brute force will work if the fitting is strong enough not to twist off.
Since we drove 900 miles to camp at a place in Texas that totally clouded over moments before totality I feel the need to pick on you and say by black & yellow impact laughs at your red impact. lol Just kidding of course. Love you guys videos and glad Dex made an appearance. (I carry a breaker bar as well)
Wait, wait...and RV video without an ad from a certain mattress company??? My head just exploded.
You two work good together on camera.............good job...........from Waco tx here..
Thank you for sharing this video. You guys are awesome.
Morning Hanks, just wanted to say we went to Bucee’s over the weekend and at least at the New Braunfels one they no longer sale the rainbow coffee mug. It is now a collectible.
We watch y’all every week. Thanks for sharing your experiences. We have purchased many of your changes for our trailer.
The Amens.
When I was a kid I learned how to change brake shoes and bearings / seals on vehicles and I was taught hand packing bearings was the best way to grease bearings. Some people like the bearing cone grease procedure but I like the hand method. If you did not test the brakes before replacing wheel and tire it is one thing I do. Great job well done. Thanks Hanks for sharing the RV way of life.
check your setting on your impact driver. the black button allows you to select between tourqe settings, 1 being the lowest 3 being the highest and 4 being an auto tourqe, meaning it changes with load on the impact. it looked like your impact was set to 2. I could be wrong. I hope that helps!
Job well done. Stay safe.
Great Job Hanks!
Always fun to watch!
If those lug nuts have metal "sleeves" replace them with all metal, not sleeve! I learned this the hard way. This was at the advise of Discount tire. The problem is that they will slip and turn on you regardless of what impact or leverage tool to remove. Result, if you out on the road and this happens, your in big trouble. Replace if they are this type with sleeves.
Agree. I had a problem with one like that. Luckily I was at home and not on the road.
@@archaney Same here. I was at home. Took the lug nuts to Direct Tire. The tech there said they run into this all the time with factory lug nuts that get stripped.
Besides just “packing the grease into the openings I like the roll the bearing in my palm the get the rollers moving and coated. Everything yall did was totally fine I just do that extra step for preference
Nice job on changing brakes out. I have checked and changing the backing plate with breaks is cost effective verse’s just replacing brake shoes and looks like it would be easier and faster. Great video and liked how you pointed out not an instructional video just your daily chores. Thanks
We love watching your videos. We're full-timers too and working to build our CZcams channel. I enjoy seeing the angles you shoot some of your videos from. That gives me some good ideas.
There is a handheld bearing packer tool that makes packing bearings SO EASY then doing it by hand.
GREAT JOB! I bet you feel proud 😃👏👏👏
Nice Team Work👍👍
Great Team👍👍
Hi guys!! We are out exploring Missouri, so we watched late. Remember we all start somewhere. You two may become great rv mechanics!! 😊😊
For the next time, get brake assemblies that are auto adjusting. If not, you’ll have to come in from the back side to adjust them every few thousand miles.
Also, they sound like they are adjusted too tight. You may have a brake overheating issues once you get moving.
Yes if you look carefully at the video when they take the hub off you can see that the old ones were not adjusted properly they are much more worn on the top than they are on the bottom. But it was hard to see if they were auto adjusting because of the camera angle
Thanks Hanks! I just ordered the grease gun thru your Amazon store! 🫶🏼 U guys
I can see a visit to the NRVTA school for some more RV maintenance education for the Hanks. Another great video and thanks for sharing.
Great video guys!
Carl. You can get replacement fenders at Icon direct for the missing one on the drivers side
Really glad to hear that you guys enjoyed beautiful north east Texas. I've lived hear in the area 52 years and its a great place. Someday the wife and I hope to see you guys out on the road since y'all seem to be a crazy fun couple. Stay safe!
Btw please take time to recheck that bearing preload after a short trip. Always spin it as you snug it up, after it's tight then loosen back up. The grease will take up valuable space needed for the bearings.
Carl so glad to see you use a torque wrench to tension those lug nuts. People don't realize he ow important that is, i teach a precision maintenance class and that is one of the things we discuss. Great job on resetting that torque wrench to a low setting as well also very important to do!! Great job both of you!
Dang, I live just 60 miles from Atlanta St. Pk. and had decided we were gonna ride up tomorrow and meet y'all. But, I guess that will be for another time. Yes, breaker bar, sockets, impact, 12 ton jack. All are important. We have been camping for over 40 yrs. Started off with a tent, then a pop up. Now, Grand Design Reflection 337RLS. We love it. Just stayed for 5 weeks in Branson MO. God bless y'all. Hope to run into y'all sometimes.
Wow, y'all get a lot of comments. I loved watching you working on your wheel. It took me back to 1987 when I was in auto shop packing my Mustang's bearings. Your videos give me more confidence that my husband and I can handle some of the maintenance when we retire and start our RV life. Thank you for sharing a balance of the joys and challenges you experience.
You handled that like a pro! I replaced the hubs on our boat trailer. Once I got the grease all in the hubs and it started coming out I stopped and the next time I took the boat out and got home I hit the bearings again with the grease gun just to make sure that the bearings were 100% all good. They did each take a few pumps so you may want to do that at some point.
ahhh loving the new content!
I have to agree with others. You need to tighten the bearing nuts with a wrench first to seat them then back off about 1/4-1/2 turn. This will seat the bearings properly and then allow enough slack for the temperature rise .
Thanks! Hank's 😊
nice video, as a couple people already advised you on the right way to pack the bearings from one side and to tighten the nut down tight with pliers and then back the tention off, solid advise. you would be well advised to get a couple of cheater bars to aid in breaking nutor bolts loose. I carry a 1 1/2 pipe 30 inches long to slide over the breaker bar, and also a 30 inch long 3/4" pipe to slide into the end of the 11/2 pipe. there by giving a possile 5 to 6 feet of leverage if needed. Better to have the extra leverage and not need it than killing yourself on the side of the highway.
Good job, I would suggest to use a piece of wood to tap on your bearing bushing so it goes in straight evenly across its diameter and it would prevent it from receiving a hammer hit directly on 1 spot !
Love the Vice Grip Garage royalty-free soundtrack music thrown in this episode...
Friendly advise. When changing the brakes, make sure they are very loose and cause no friction as it will throw off your bearing seating. I usually sit the bearing nut quite tight, this ensures the bearing is well seated. I then back off and tighten slowly until I get a little hub friction. Lock into to place and then adjust brakes.
When in doubt I always take pictures when taking things apart. Lots easier when putting it back together.
We love this campground. When the camper is notnparked by the house, Folks know where to find us if they want to come visit.
All leveling in my 2006 Montana is all done manually so I carry a 4 ton floor jack with me and of course jackstands. The reason I’m saying this is the floor jack has a long handle that’s removable and I use that as a torque bar extension, really handy device and no need for more or extra tools! Great DIY video! Rollo
You need to preload the bearings by turning the Hub well you're tightening the nut and then back off just a little bit! If you don't preload the bearings you could run into lots of problems
Kyle n Nene great job, now you gotta tackle the other job. Also keep old bearings for an emergency, or keep a new one on hand. It may save you out on the road. Kyle, if you retire early you can offer your mechanical services $$. Take care 🤗
omg I'm so grateful for mechanics
Definitely should pack grease in from the larger side till it comes out on the opposing side. Also always tighten down that axel nut with a wrench using moderate force to make sure everything is seated. Then loosen back up and set it to hand tight or zero preload. As far as the brake wire, make sure you seal that connection with a piece of shrink tubing to keep water out. Otherwise it is going to corrode and stop working. But great job taking it on. Always enjoy the realistic, entertaining and inspiring content you share. Thanks for keeping it real and have fun.
Get. A 3 or 4 foot piece of 3/4 inch galvanized pipe nipple. Slide it OVER the breaker bar 1/3 or the bar and you have extended your breaker bar,,, INCREASING YOUR MECHANIC ADVANTAGE OF THE LEVER( breaker bar)..
Also buy a cheap ft pounds TORQUE WRENCH