Looking at the wheel, you could have rotated it 135° counter clockwise (8 o'clock to 7:30), and then cleaned the gash. That way, less cleaner touches the rim.👍
I wondered if you happen to later add black rubber cement which could be an addition to support plus it may cover the slight areas in order to keep from catching on anything?
It was lucky that piece stayed with the tire, made the patch REALLY simple. As for the tire integrity, not an issue since it DID NOT tear the webbing (white-ish cloth), if it was damaged then the sidewall flex would be a problem. BUT this fix will hold for the life of the tire. FYI: Tires have 3 layers. 1) Inner layer is called the bladder. That is patch-able just like an inner tube. 2) The WEBBING (rayon cords or steel wire) is the actual strength of the tire. There will always be multi-layers. 3) The outer layer is the tread, that's the tires friction to the road surface. These NEW GLUES made specifically for cured rubber tires, this outer layer can be repaired as long as the cord is not showing. Of COURSE it's inadvisable for safety sake to replace the tire. (UPDATED for clearer info due to jord's ass'9 comment)
I watched several video's where they used 3M Scotch Weld PB 40 and it was as strong as the rubber tire when trying to pull it apart after they fixed the damaged sidewall on a complete puncture that was over an inch. You should add the glue name and URL in your video description.
That tire needs to be replaced, the integrity of the wall is compromised. You cannot patch or repair sidewall damage as it is where all the pressure is exerted.
Also primary load-bearing areas of a tire are the portions of the tire in contact with the road, specifically the tread and shoulder regions. These areas bear the weight of the vehicle and transfer the force to the road surface. The sidewall's role is to provide structural support and flexibility to the tire, allowing it to conform to the shape of the road and absorb road irregularities. While it does experience stress, it's not the primary area designed to handle the vehicle's weight. The tread and shoulder regions are more critical in this regard. I would rather see some actual tests instead of your opinion, which is just a opinion.
As long as you are not down to the cords, you are good. 1/8 or 1/16 inch of rubber won’t subtract enough strength to worry about. Besides, that glue sticks!
Shut TF up. If the cords aren't cut, its 100% repairable and 100% safe. Stop believing the lies of manufacturers who would have you throw away perfectly good tires to buy new ones.
I used the crazy glue from the 99 cents store and it's been like over 6 moths and still holding.
Looking at the wheel, you could have rotated it 135° counter clockwise (8 o'clock to 7:30), and then cleaned the gash. That way, less cleaner touches the rim.👍
I wondered if you happen to later add black rubber cement which could be an addition to support plus it may cover the slight areas in order to keep from catching on anything?
Good job. Is the Pr100 also suitable for the same type repair?
It was lucky that piece stayed with the tire, made the patch REALLY simple.
As for the tire integrity, not an issue since it DID NOT tear the webbing (white-ish cloth), if it was damaged then the sidewall flex would be a problem. BUT this fix will hold for the life of the tire.
FYI: Tires have 3 layers.
1) Inner layer is called the bladder. That is patch-able just like an inner tube.
2) The WEBBING (rayon cords or steel wire) is the actual strength of the tire. There will always be multi-layers.
3) The outer layer is the tread, that's the tires friction to the road surface. These NEW GLUES made specifically for cured rubber tires, this outer layer can be repaired as long as the cord is not showing. Of COURSE it's inadvisable for safety sake to replace the tire.
(UPDATED for clearer info due to jord's ass'9 comment)
You deadass will be at fault for killing someone with this comment just to sell some product.
@@jordirivadeneira8060
Most of that info I posted came from Bridgestone. Now YOU the deadass 🖕 .
I watched several video's where they used 3M Scotch Weld PB 40 and it was as strong as the rubber tire when trying to pull it apart after they fixed the damaged sidewall on a complete puncture that was over an inch. You should add the glue name and URL in your video description.
👍🏽 ok thanks
I don't have brake cleaner. Can I just use good old soap and water to clean the tire?
Can I clean with white vinegar ?
Well, you could remove that rubber and it would be the same safety-wise.
Any...news about this lady after 8 months? 😬
Still kicking and the tire is too
That tire needs to be replaced, the integrity of the wall is compromised. You cannot patch or repair sidewall damage as it is where all the pressure is exerted.
but it didnt damage the threads
Also
primary load-bearing areas of a tire are the portions of the tire in contact with the road, specifically the tread and shoulder regions. These areas bear the weight of the vehicle and transfer the force to the road surface.
The sidewall's role is to provide structural support and flexibility to the tire, allowing it to conform to the shape of the road and absorb road irregularities. While it does experience stress, it's not the primary area designed to handle the vehicle's weight. The tread and shoulder regions are more critical in this regard.
I would rather see some actual tests instead of your opinion, which is just a opinion.
As long as you are not down to the cords, you are good. 1/8 or 1/16 inch of rubber won’t subtract enough strength to worry about. Besides, that glue sticks!
google in da house
@@mggt4684
Shut TF up. If the cords aren't cut, its 100% repairable and 100% safe. Stop believing the lies of manufacturers who would have you throw away perfectly good tires to buy new ones.