❗VERY IMPORTANT - READ THIS❗ As I learn more about Motorsport's physics engine, I will add addendums to this pinned comment. •Suspension tuning • Suspension tuning was largely overlooked in this guide. What Forza Motorsport likes is for suspension to be tuned according to the weight balance of the car. For every 1% weight distribution toward either front or rear, we add 4 kgf/mm spring stiffness. In the case of the Porsche 911 GT3, with a 43/57 weight balance, this means that we add an additional 28kgf/mm on the rear springs. •Aero/Anti-Roll Bar Balance • Forza appears to suffer from a bit of the old rFactor 2 physics exploit, where a person can drop the rear aero level way back, and offset the loss in grip by also dropping the stiffness of the rear anti-roll bar. So far in my testing there appear to be diminishing returns here, but on faster tracks you can certainly gain lap time by dropping the rear wing a fair bit lower than I did in the video, and offsetting that by also dropping back the rear anti-roll bar. • For gamepad players • You MUST use 'Normal' steering (not 'Simulation') in order to be able to control tunes that rotate this much. For RWD cars, you may get more stability by setting Differential 'Acceleration' between 50% to 60%. Likewise, you may want the 'Deceleration' set between 20% and 40%. • For everyone • I've been told by a few sources that 'ideal' tyre pressures in Motorsport are between 1.7 to 2.2 bar. I've run a ton of tests, checked telemetry and lap performance, and so far I *always* get the best performance when my HOT tyre pressures are at 2.2 bar. Will keep you updated if this changes.
Not true on normal steering - all the top players are using sim, although normal isn't much slower at all. Also, tire pressures are actually more sensitive in this game. Before, you'd set them to 28.0 or so and call it good. Now, you need to make sure the middle temps aren't too hot or too cold, which is still fairly easy with telem
1:56 antiroll bars maximize, pull back rear 5% for grip 2:21 do the same to aero for tight tracks, if long straights take away more downforce 2:50 front better turns 2:54: rear better stability at speed 3:01: diffs acceleration: maximize for max pwr to wheels, 3:27: especially for rear engine cars to wheel spin on throttle 3:33: higher the decel the more understeer, less means more oversteer 3:45 RWD: decel set
I was so ready for you to be wrong like all the others that make "tuning guides" then use IRL logic. Thank you for giving people *real* information that actually works in Forza.
Other sims have the same disconnect when it comes to how different settings impact performance. Even iRacing is not perfect. Years ago I got a tune from a guy who would provide them in exchange for Twitch subs and I was surprised at what I saw. It drove great and went fast but I couldn’t imagine a setup like that on a real car… although I’m not an engineer so maybe I’m just wrong.
@@michaelw6277 I mean there's been a lot of people who've built rather loose race cars (not sure if that's what you were referring to). A lot of fwd guys in older cars try to make the car oversteer as much as possible, which leads to less than ideal street manners lol
Dude you’re the man. I’ve been looking for a no nonsense tuning guide with results proven… I’ve been getting consistently whooped in qualifying despite being able to keep up and even gain positions through the race. Been getting some bad luck with ramming obviously but I felt like it didn’t matter how good of a lap I laid down I’d still be p5. I’ll try this out tonight and start tinkering to see if I can get anywhere
You should get into sim racing then, im 34 and getting into sim racing gave me emotion i had back when i started playing game on pc 20 years ago. Its expensive but so much rewarding.
@@marc-andrehogue114 I get more thrill in FM than in ACC..... I mean, In FM it's constant fun, in ACC it's stressing out over setup and track conditions and then I get few great moments. FM is super condensed into pure fun... As much as I love AC and ACC something about FM that just makes the online racing enjoyment complete and super accessible...everything is like few clicks away. Simple and effective. And I know I'm not an isolated case.. pretty much all of my friends that play acc, iracing, rf2, ac said the same thing....
@@TheFormActually definitely, I've not been on iRacing or ACC since Forza came out - I reallly enjoy booting it up and jumping online without any set ups or anything - this tuning guide will hopefully keep me at the front of the grid so I can avoid a lot of rammers and chaos at the start, it's not perfect and the dirty driving can be a pain but I'm still enjoying it. Had a few races over the weekend where people squeezed me into walls and stuff though, feel like it's getting worse as the days go on...
This is almost what I was looking for! I was looking for somebody to start with a base car and then go through the full upgrade and tuning of that vehicle! As I'm just starting out, I'm not sure what the "ideal" feel is for a vehicle in sim racing! Obviously, there's preference, but there is still an "optimal"/proper way to do things that I would love to learn as a foundation! I don't mind longer videos, especially when they're as informative as this. Even if you were to go much further into depth and drop a 30-60 minute video, I'd watch the whole thing multiple times! Thank you for this! I definitely appreciate all of the time and effort you put into the video!
As someone new to the FM series, thank you for creating an ACTUAL tuning guide, unlike other vids out there that just paraphrased the in-game description and didn't even bother to show us an example. I've been pretty frustrated since day 1 until I've watched this one right here!
In previous forza titles I found a lot of cars just want the number equal on both sides, I'll see if tuning out the understeer in this game causes me to want more rear downforce once I get it.
I've heard this from a few Forza players. I'm going to try tuning low rear aero combined with low rear anti roll bar, in case aero doesn't work like reality. If the Forza engine is broken in the same way rFactor 2 was, this would result in max grip, oversteer and speed.
been trying this tune on the same Porsche and its giving me great results, the second you left off the gas the car gets massive rotation, you can overtake almost everyone, talking about S 4844 skill level
@stefans4562 true but think about it, he uses a wheel, I use a controller, he is driving a Porsche, I would drive a vette or viper. Different strokes for different folks.
Look if I’m not BARLEY out of control with my car I ain’t racin because I ain’t pushin. I’d rather have too much machine by just a bit leaving NOTHING on the track. So tunes like this to me is perfect. But like ol boy said, different strokes 🤷🏽♂️
Your differential settings might be causing excess inner tire wear and oversteer. 100% setting means that on throttle the wheels are locked together in speed. Meaning if you’re on power in a corner, the inside wheel will try to match the outer wheel’s rotation, spinning and cause oversteer. On GT cars I use around 30-40% accel and 10-20 deccel for RWD Axle and 55% accel and 1% deccel on FWD axle. The inside tire will be able to rotate. This allows for getting on power before your opponent in most cases. Max % diff settings very good for drifting though!
In formula 1, use high diff for high speed corners for stability and grip, mid/low diff for slow corners. So all depends on track and driving style. Ofc in formula y adjust for most corners mid fly
I second this. High diff setting will help you put down power for sure, but it also makes the car oversteer on the throttle. This is very noticeable in RWD rally cars.
@@jammaschan More likely is that people think that, because they don't understand car setup. I tune the same way in every simulator, but I guess physics just works differently for me XD
Your guide is great, thank you! I've been playing Forza since it first came out over 20 years ago and think your guide is the best I've come across in that time. I've always understood the basics of tuning, but your succinct guide with adjustments and immediate discussion on effects really helps pushing to the next level
By far the best tuning guide so far. To be expected from a great content creator tbh, but you told us what the good range of stuff actually is, the other videos, the guys just say stuff that most people already know
Wow man!!!! U finally made me understand the differential. I found .9 for a 1 minute lap. I went from using the vw in touring cars and would consistently finish in the top 3 but it was a struggle. Now I can take any car in that class and dominate. It’s like night and day. Thank u thank u thank u!!!!!
i would recommend trying out -2.2° of camber on the front with that porsche. it felt like the front tires had a considerable amount of extra grip with the extra -0.2 degrees.
Thank you so much for this video. I was finding this game very frustrating with the massive under steer. But since I’ve started using your set ups it’s made me love this game.
Great info, thanks! Although I would highly recommend folks check out the anti-dive anti-squat settings. You can get a lot better braking performance out of most cars reducing the default anti-dive. If the rear tires are sliding on the throttle, reducing anti-squat is a one-click fix. and you can leave your damper settings to deal with bumps. and if your rear tires AREN'T ever sliding on corner exits, increase the anti-squat until they're right at the edge of sliding and you get instantly better acceleration. I treat the damper settings like the fast bump/rebound in ACC, and the anti-squat/dive like slow bump/rebound.
The first thing I do with every car is drop the diff deceleration setting to 0 and only increase it as necessary (5 for mid/rear engine RWD car). With that most cars start to present a more natural behavior when you close the throttle to tighten your line mid corner.
I personally believe the car leveling was put in place to help drivers get to know their car better and understand how certain modifications affect different aspects of their vehicle. I don't find any issues with the car leveling system as I am big on rivals stuff so it's super easy to start off stock, take down a good chunk of a leaderboard and then go back and upgrade and continue the mission to own everybody else
Theres some discrepancies with the tuning availability for certain parts (although its nothing different than their older games). Like the suspension upgrades for one - the description for the sport suspension refers to single way adjustable coilovers..that means we should be able to adjust the height and 1 type of damping (compression or rebound, preferably rebound). Then the race suspension could unlock complete tuning of the suspension. Whichever person(s) did the descriptions for the different upgrades seems to be a real enthusiast..all of the mods are about as accurately described as they can be for a 3 tier system.
Man f that.. you ever try getting a E class car into A class. Takes hours to do. And accomplishes nothing because by the time its in A class its nothing like it was part by part.
Been waiting for this one. I have some knowledge from GT7, Anti Roll bars are a MUST for better turn in, and I know what afew of the rest do, but I definitely need this
Car looks like it is drifting more around the corners then actually planting into them and carving into it... You can tell by how it looks and watching your steering wheel as it is not steady when you are taking corners, it's jumping around because you have to make multiple adjustments to keep yourself from spinning out...
Which ultimately will kill tires faster in longer races. AND there's more to tuning, like how weight distribution and the difference between front / rear tire width affects handling characteristics, downforce mainly being tuned for high speed turns, while suspension for low-to-mid speed ones.
This is how drivers who prefer oversteer drive. You can see it a lot in carting. I think this is too much for me personally but the whole idea is to get the car to rotate quicker so you can be on throttle earlier
Great stuff thank you for sharing. Can you make a vid for how to get off the starting line quick, especially in the faster cars. Also how to defend against all the people spinning you out. I make through 1 is every ten races without getting taken out but some amateur.
Note. That Porsche is a pretty gripy car coming out of turns that’s why he needed more oversteer. Also player skill matters you can probably run a store tune good but if you can spend the time to do your own it’s much faster because you can keep adjusting over time.
Your tune seems very twitchy. What i like to do is find a nice middle ground for anti roll bar and spring settings. You can use the formula [(max value - min value)×wt ratio + min value] here the wt ratio is the wt distribution of your car. If it is 55ft and 45 rear and your max and min values are 13 and 1 respectively then it will be [(13-1)×0.55 + 1] (this is for the front, for rear multiply it by rear wt ratio which in this case is 0.45). Which will give you a nice middle ground. Then you can fine tune it to your liking. You can do the same for bump stifness and the rebound stiffness is 60 percent of bump stiffness. So bump stifness multiplied by 0.6
Not berating your tunes. I read my comment again and it came across as a lil condescending. Just wanted to share some additional knowledge where you can use your wt distribution to tune your cars.
Hold up, hold up. Bump damping should pretty much always be lower than rebound. Too much bump damping causes poor turn in, and not enough rebound damping causes inconsistent grip. If your bump damping is stiffer than your rebound, one of these things is definitely happening. Possibly both! Just my two cents : )
yeah and the rollbars are totally irrelevant as well :D so no calculations necessary. If it was realistic you would need them to make the car stable. You can set both anti-roll settings to zero in every single car and they're all totally fine without. Which is what i was doing for a while, thinking that I was getting max grip on the outside tires while cornering, but ironically, since I guess the grip calculations are completely out of whack, he's right, you actually get better cornering speeds with the rollbars at max stiffness.
@@matteusmaximus You misunderstand how rollbars work. Soft roll bars give more stability, which is why rally cars, trophy trucks, and other offroad vehicles have soft rollbars. On a track, you need grip more than stability, so racecars run stiff rollbars, which you can easily see by how they don't roll very much in corners. Not trying to dunk on you or anything, just trying to help out a fellow sim racer. Understanding this stuff makes driving much more enjoyable.
very nice overview, a few little differences to adjust to from fh5, reeeeeeaaaally wanting to see an explanation of the suspension geometry pls? I've tried to play with it but I normally do more harm than good when I do.
I've heard from the fast guys that it needs a low downfoemrce setup to be quick and makes it loose and hard to drive. It's not a noob stick like the corvetter
Man, your video is a game changer. So far the experience has not been good: I don't know how to tune and the guide videos I've seen look like I need an Excel sheet. The tunes available online? I was convinced the game sucks donkey balls because I had a five star tune on the Porsche 919 and it felt like I was driving on ice with summer tires. After watching this video, I can spend a few minutes tuning a car and suddenly it starts behaving like it should. And driving feels fun. The devs should give you a medal. I was almost ready to quit this game.
I haven't tested yours yet, but I use 20.x-21.x (as close to .0 as possible) rollbars (so +1 rear) and 70-30 diff as a general setup and it works pretty well. I feel like 100% diff lock shouldn't work, it basically means fixed diff, which is good for drift cars, not so much for racing.
Big help sir! New sub. Ty! Damping ratios are so difficult for me as other than being 1/3 of bump no other help is given. I wish the game would do a better job of explaining settings! Heck I’d love a racing school mode or something like that!
Why on earth are you maxing the front ARB in a car you’ve identified as understeer heavy? You’ve just made it more understeery. Stiffening the back will increase oversteer but it’s opposite for the front. By maxing out the FRONT ARB, you’ve effectively decreased your front grip on mid to high speed corners. Fix understeer: Corner entry: lower front springs, lower front bump and rebound (or do opposite on rear) Mid corner: increase rear ARB, decrease front ARB, increase rear diff lock, decrease front and rear deceleration lock; can also stiffen suspension and increase camber in older or non-racing cars
Go into your settings and change your deadzones, Forza has a crazy ass 24/100 setting stock lol. I dropped mine down to 5 since I have an older controller but if yours is newer you can go to 0. Doing this legit dropped my lap time on Hakone Club by more than half a second and put me from 90th on rivals to 33rd.
EPIC ! I had problems tuning in the cayman GTS, it was not rotating at all and completely understeering under power. I made the setup following your info a heureka, the car is now rotating monster, the changes of direction in low speed are insane, no sign of understeer, just what u expect porshe to drive like. I dunno who makes the basic setups but they are just dog s**t.
Tuning is OP in spec.. i keep an eye on tire friction and adjust tire pressure alignment and Aero to suit.. tweak slowly as tire ware is a big factor... Gear Ratios i do a lap and if im not using all the gears ill tune it till I am. Toe is a weird one.. RWD you want stability on straights and turns so it doesn't drift. FWD id go for a more turn in rear but add rear aero to compensate for the loss of stability
So I play on wheel and I notice that wheel is more consistent when it comes to conserving tires. It is definitely harder to control oversteer. So I wonder how this applies to wheel.
5:30 I think you got that mixed up. IRL race cars pretty much always have negative front toe/ toe out to get rid of understeer and positive rear toe for stability. Edit: Nevermind, it's just the wrong way around in the game😂
Slamming ride height down to the lowest settings isn't always the best move. On many cars with race suspension, this can actually cause your car to become unstable when driving over curbs on corner entry or exit.
And this comment will ........BE FULLY MAXED OUT Jokes aside in really appreciate this because im clueless when it comes to tuning, i knew it wasn't me that was driving slow it was these default tunes that have made me slower, now that im familiar with tuning insee my lap times improving and im increasing the AI difficulty to help me improve my overall driving Thanks again definitely subscribing
This is my fav car in the game, too. I applied your settings and loved how the car feels right away. Question tho: did you have upgrades applied up front or did you start from the GT spec values? Because with the GT settings, no matter how hard I try, I’m not getting anywhere near the 00:50.3 not even close. 😢
No adjustments to brake bias? Cars default to 50/50 but i found 55-63 front bias helpful trying to get a little more front grip while trail braking. Thoughts?
This guide is giving very different information (differential, stiffness) to some of the others I’ve watched. I guess I just gotta try both ways and see which feels best for me.
I've always been a fan of GT n Forza both, more GT overall but there's been times I picked Forza over GT like Forza 4 vs GT5, I haven't gotten Gt7 yet but have been playing this Forza alot, what are some of yalls opinion, which of the 2 is better this time around?
i'm new to forza and i've seen a lot of tuning guides but they never show what performance upgrades to use are they not important as long as it unlocks the tuning tabs and maxes the car's PI class?
does anyone know the exact model he is using? is it a GT 3-RS? a normal GT 3? wich version? or does all of that not matter in the game? help would be much apreciated.
@@duesenantrieb8272 For gamepad race with 'Normal' steering to keep the car controlled with this much oversteer, and consider making the Differential settings a little less extreme if you're having trouble with twitchyness.
Im not sure why but I've probably watched this video a good 10 times over while tuning my cars and I gotta say that ever since my cars have never done worse. Cars that use to be stable and fast are squirrley and unmanageable. My touring cars are being dominated by less than skilled drivers and im starting to lose interest in even figuring out how to get my tunings back to what they were. Idk if its just my experience but I've used this video as a reference for every tune I do. I was better off just blindly learning on my own tweaking one thing at a time and feeling how it effected the car. Btw, are all these tuning tips under the assumption that were using a steering wheel/manual trans setup? Is any of this viable for a controller?
Hmmm, a bit of an oversimplification of suspension in the Forza context, I can see how Forza isn't a sim, but if your car bottoms out it's a whole heap of pain. This is especially so with bumps as Forza kerbs are notoriously made out of ice. As for the camber, you can validate your choices by checking tire temperatures as you corner. This is more difficult than previous Forza games as the telemetry is simplified, but even if Forza isn't a sim one could assume the logic refers to having a better contact patch into its math. As for the PSI, it was 32PSI (2.2Bar) on the previous Forza games, but I'm not finding it the same this time around. I often run 28PSI front and 24-26PSI rear when tires are warm and the difference between that and 32PSI is night and day - this is all with race tire compounds. I would hazard a guess the feel of a tune between controller and wheel is massively different, it was on previous Forza games, but I don't have a wheel for Forza to confirm. It's possible this tune works great on a wheel, but it could be another picture on a controller.
❗VERY IMPORTANT - READ THIS❗
As I learn more about Motorsport's physics engine, I will add addendums to this pinned comment.
•Suspension tuning •
Suspension tuning was largely overlooked in this guide. What Forza Motorsport likes is for suspension to be tuned according to the weight balance of the car.
For every 1% weight distribution toward either front or rear, we add 4 kgf/mm spring stiffness. In the case of the Porsche 911 GT3, with a 43/57 weight balance, this means that we add an additional 28kgf/mm on the rear springs.
•Aero/Anti-Roll Bar Balance •
Forza appears to suffer from a bit of the old rFactor 2 physics exploit, where a person can drop the rear aero level way back, and offset the loss in grip by also dropping the stiffness of the rear anti-roll bar.
So far in my testing there appear to be diminishing returns here, but on faster tracks you can certainly gain lap time by dropping the rear wing a fair bit lower than I did in the video, and offsetting that by also dropping back the rear anti-roll bar.
• For gamepad players •
You MUST use 'Normal' steering (not 'Simulation') in order to be able to control tunes that rotate this much.
For RWD cars, you may get more stability by setting Differential 'Acceleration' between 50% to 60%. Likewise, you may want the 'Deceleration' set between 20% and 40%.
• For everyone •
I've been told by a few sources that 'ideal' tyre pressures in Motorsport are between 1.7 to 2.2 bar. I've run a ton of tests, checked telemetry and lap performance, and so far I *always* get the best performance when my HOT tyre pressures are at 2.2 bar. Will keep you updated if this changes.
Thank you Ermz for this
You the best, ermz. 👍
40% decel 💀
Not true on normal steering - all the top players are using sim, although normal isn't much slower at all.
Also, tire pressures are actually more sensitive in this game. Before, you'd set them to 28.0 or so and call it good. Now, you need to make sure the middle temps aren't too hot or too cold, which is still fairly easy with telem
Question, are you playing with or without TC and ABS?
1:56 antiroll bars maximize, pull back rear 5% for grip
2:21 do the same to aero for tight tracks, if long straights take away more downforce
2:50 front better turns
2:54: rear better stability at speed
3:01: diffs acceleration: maximize for max pwr to wheels,
3:27: especially for rear engine cars to wheel spin on throttle
3:33: higher the decel the more understeer, less means more oversteer
3:45 RWD: decel set
goat
I was so ready for you to be wrong like all the others that make "tuning guides" then use IRL logic. Thank you for giving people *real* information that actually works in Forza.
Other sims have the same disconnect when it comes to how different settings impact performance. Even iRacing is not perfect. Years ago I got a tune from a guy who would provide them in exchange for Twitch subs and I was surprised at what I saw. It drove great and went fast but I couldn’t imagine a setup like that on a real car… although I’m not an engineer so maybe I’m just wrong.
@@michaelw6277 I mean there's been a lot of people who've built rather loose race cars (not sure if that's what you were referring to). A lot of fwd guys in older cars try to make the car oversteer as much as possible, which leads to less than ideal street manners lol
Dude you’re the man. I’ve been looking for a no nonsense tuning guide with results proven… I’ve been getting consistently whooped in qualifying despite being able to keep up and even gain positions through the race. Been getting some bad luck with ramming obviously but I felt like it didn’t matter how good of a lap I laid down I’d still be p5. I’ll try this out tonight and start tinkering to see if I can get anywhere
Raceboy77
I love this game so much. Online racing brought emotions I didn't know I was still capable of at 33.
You should get into sim racing then, im 34 and getting into sim racing gave me emotion i had back when i started playing game on pc 20 years ago. Its expensive but so much rewarding.
@@marc-andrehogue114 I barely have time to play Forza as is.
@@marc-andrehogue114 I get more thrill in FM than in ACC..... I mean, In FM it's constant fun, in ACC it's stressing out over setup and track conditions and then I get few great moments. FM is super condensed into pure fun... As much as I love AC and ACC something about FM that just makes the online racing enjoyment complete and super accessible...everything is like few clicks away. Simple and effective. And I know I'm not an isolated case.. pretty much all of my friends that play acc, iracing, rf2, ac said the same thing....
@@TheFormActually definitely, I've not been on iRacing or ACC since Forza came out - I reallly enjoy booting it up and jumping online without any set ups or anything - this tuning guide will hopefully keep me at the front of the grid so I can avoid a lot of rammers and chaos at the start, it's not perfect and the dirty driving can be a pain but I'm still enjoying it. Had a few races over the weekend where people squeezed me into walls and stuff though, feel like it's getting worse as the days go on...
Me too! Even though those emotions are mostly anger.
This is almost what I was looking for! I was looking for somebody to start with a base car and then go through the full upgrade and tuning of that vehicle! As I'm just starting out, I'm not sure what the "ideal" feel is for a vehicle in sim racing! Obviously, there's preference, but there is still an "optimal"/proper way to do things that I would love to learn as a foundation!
I don't mind longer videos, especially when they're as informative as this. Even if you were to go much further into depth and drop a 30-60 minute video, I'd watch the whole thing multiple times! Thank you for this! I definitely appreciate all of the time and effort you put into the video!
As someone new to the FM series, thank you for creating an ACTUAL tuning guide, unlike other vids out there that just paraphrased the in-game description and didn't even bother to show us an example. I've been pretty frustrated since day 1 until I've watched this one right here!
This is exactly how i tune my cars, except the aero. Full on Front and as low as i cant get away with on the rear is my way to go.
In previous forza titles I found a lot of cars just want the number equal on both sides, I'll see if tuning out the understeer in this game causes me to want more rear downforce once I get it.
I've heard this from a few Forza players. I'm going to try tuning low rear aero combined with low rear anti roll bar, in case aero doesn't work like reality. If the Forza engine is broken in the same way rFactor 2 was, this would result in max grip, oversteer and speed.
been trying this tune on the same Porsche and its giving me great results, the second you left off the gas the car gets massive rotation, you can overtake almost everyone, talking about S 4844 skill level
It's always interesting seeing how different people tune.
And this guy wants his GT car to drive like a welded diff gokart.
@stefans4562 true but think about it, he uses a wheel, I use a controller, he is driving a Porsche, I would drive a vette or viper. Different strokes for different folks.
Video game go kart mode. Diff at 100...yo...@@stefans4562
@@stefans4562 loose is fast, baby.
Look if I’m not BARLEY out of control with my car I ain’t racin because I ain’t pushin. I’d rather have too much machine by just a bit leaving NOTHING on the track. So tunes like this to me is perfect. But like ol boy said, different strokes 🤷🏽♂️
Your differential settings might be causing excess inner tire wear and oversteer. 100% setting means that on throttle the wheels are locked together in speed. Meaning if you’re on power in a corner, the inside wheel will try to match the outer wheel’s rotation, spinning and cause oversteer. On GT cars I use around 30-40% accel and 10-20 deccel for RWD Axle and 55% accel and 1% deccel on FWD axle. The inside tire will be able to rotate. This allows for getting on power before your opponent in most cases. Max % diff settings very good for drifting though!
In formula 1, use high diff for high speed corners for stability and grip, mid/low diff for slow corners. So all depends on track and driving style. Ofc in formula y adjust for most corners mid fly
I second this. High diff setting will help you put down power for sure, but it also makes the car oversteer on the throttle. This is very noticeable in RWD rally cars.
might just be how the Forza physics work though since quite a bit of other settings don't follow real world logic either?
@@jammaschan More likely is that people think that, because they don't understand car setup. I tune the same way in every simulator, but I guess physics just works differently for me XD
@@josephhodsall8371 Forza aint nowhere close to a sim, and the physics seem downright unrealistic imo
Sooooooo helpful. Have gone from (online) mid-pack to top 3-4 average just by learning from this single tutorial. Thank you very much.
Your guide is great, thank you! I've been playing Forza since it first came out over 20 years ago and think your guide is the best I've come across in that time. I've always understood the basics of tuning, but your succinct guide with adjustments and immediate discussion on effects really helps pushing to the next level
finally the guide i want to see but wont use since i am lazy...
By far the best tuning guide so far. To be expected from a great content creator tbh, but you told us what the good range of stuff actually is, the other videos, the guys just say stuff that most people already know
Wow man!!!! U finally made me understand the differential. I found .9 for a 1 minute lap. I went from using the vw in touring cars and would consistently finish in the top 3 but it was a struggle. Now I can take any car in that class and dominate. It’s like night and day. Thank u thank u thank u!!!!!
Have been super competitive using this guide as a base line, very impressed
Uncomplicated no technical details absolutely spot on keep up the good work 👍🤗
i would recommend trying out -2.2° of camber on the front with that porsche. it felt like the front tires had a considerable amount of extra grip with the extra -0.2 degrees.
Thank you so much for this video. I was finding this game very frustrating with the massive under steer. But since I’ve started using your set ups it’s made me love this game.
Thank you for making a guide I've been looking for one that goes over the more important tuning options my m8 handles even better than before
Great info, thanks! Although I would highly recommend folks check out the anti-dive anti-squat settings. You can get a lot better braking performance out of most cars reducing the default anti-dive. If the rear tires are sliding on the throttle, reducing anti-squat is a one-click fix. and you can leave your damper settings to deal with bumps. and if your rear tires AREN'T ever sliding on corner exits, increase the anti-squat until they're right at the edge of sliding and you get instantly better acceleration. I treat the damper settings like the fast bump/rebound in ACC, and the anti-squat/dive like slow bump/rebound.
Thanks for the setup guide, you made it easier for me.
The first thing I do with every car is drop the diff deceleration setting to 0 and only increase it as necessary (5 for mid/rear engine RWD car). With that most cars start to present a more natural behavior when you close the throttle to tighten your line mid corner.
This is what I have been waiting for 😍
Your content style is very satisfying
I was skeptical, but your tips worked.
Nice work man some really nice pointers in there 🙏
Great vídeo, thanka for the tips and the way you explain them, jt helps a lot! 👊🏻
This made the game playable for me, thank you
Outstanding thank you Ermz 👍
I personally believe the car leveling was put in place to help drivers get to know their car better and understand how certain modifications affect different aspects of their vehicle. I don't find any issues with the car leveling system as I am big on rivals stuff so it's super easy to start off stock, take down a good chunk of a leaderboard and then go back and upgrade and continue the mission to own everybody else
There needs to be a driver level cap where carpoint and carlevels don't matter anymore ie: driver level 100, 150 ect
Theres some discrepancies with the tuning availability for certain parts (although its nothing different than their older games). Like the suspension upgrades for one - the description for the sport suspension refers to single way adjustable coilovers..that means we should be able to adjust the height and 1 type of damping (compression or rebound, preferably rebound). Then the race suspension could unlock complete tuning of the suspension. Whichever person(s) did the descriptions for the different upgrades seems to be a real enthusiast..all of the mods are about as accurately described as they can be for a 3 tier system.
Man f that.. you ever try getting a E class car into A class. Takes hours to do. And accomplishes nothing because by the time its in A class its nothing like it was part by part.
Been waiting for this one. I have some knowledge from GT7, Anti Roll bars are a MUST for better turn in, and I know what afew of the rest do, but I definitely need this
Front is for turn in and rear is for mid turn and exit
Very concise guide!
Actually a huge help thank you 🙏
yeeeees i was waiting for this!!!!
The best video 4 setup yet...Thx a lot! Can you make it one also for the LMP cars? Like the Cadillac of the intro?
Car looks like it is drifting more around the corners then actually planting into them and carving into it... You can tell by how it looks and watching your steering wheel as it is not steady when you are taking corners, it's jumping around because you have to make multiple adjustments to keep yourself from spinning out...
I’ve just rewatched it and yeah…you’re right.
Which ultimately will kill tires faster in longer races. AND there's more to tuning, like how weight distribution and the difference between front / rear tire width affects handling characteristics, downforce mainly being tuned for high speed turns, while suspension for low-to-mid speed ones.
I agree but it seems that’s just what works for him. Tuning is very subjective, what works for some people is not necessarily the best for you.
This is how drivers who prefer oversteer drive. You can see it a lot in carting. I think this is too much for me personally but the whole idea is to get the car to rotate quicker so you can be on throttle earlier
Negative toe is wheels pointing out from center
Love it... Another video specific to FWD? Thanks
Great stuff thank you for sharing. Can you make a vid for how to get off the starting line quick, especially in the faster cars. Also how to defend against all the people spinning you out. I make through 1 is every ten races without getting taken out but some amateur.
Great vid. What are the next guides planned?
Note. That Porsche is a pretty gripy car coming out of turns that’s why he needed more oversteer. Also player skill matters you can probably run a store tune good but if you can spend the time to do your own it’s much faster because you can keep adjusting over time.
Your tune seems very twitchy. What i like to do is find a nice middle ground for anti roll bar and spring settings. You can use the formula [(max value - min value)×wt ratio + min value] here the wt ratio is the wt distribution of your car. If it is 55ft and 45 rear and your max and min values are 13 and 1 respectively then it will be [(13-1)×0.55 + 1] (this is for the front, for rear multiply it by rear wt ratio which in this case is 0.45). Which will give you a nice middle ground. Then you can fine tune it to your liking. You can do the same for bump stifness and the rebound stiffness is 60 percent of bump stiffness. So bump stifness multiplied by 0.6
Not berating your tunes. I read my comment again and it came across as a lil condescending. Just wanted to share some additional knowledge where you can use your wt distribution to tune your cars.
Hold up, hold up. Bump damping should pretty much always be lower than rebound. Too much bump damping causes poor turn in, and not enough rebound damping causes inconsistent grip. If your bump damping is stiffer than your rebound, one of these things is definitely happening. Possibly both!
Just my two cents : )
yeah and the rollbars are totally irrelevant as well :D so no calculations necessary. If it was realistic you would need them to make the car stable. You can set both anti-roll settings to zero in every single car and they're all totally fine without. Which is what i was doing for a while, thinking that I was getting max grip on the outside tires while cornering, but ironically, since I guess the grip calculations are completely out of whack, he's right, you actually get better cornering speeds with the rollbars at max stiffness.
@@matteusmaximus You misunderstand how rollbars work. Soft roll bars give more stability, which is why rally cars, trophy trucks, and other offroad vehicles have soft rollbars. On a track, you need grip more than stability, so racecars run stiff rollbars, which you can easily see by how they don't roll very much in corners.
Not trying to dunk on you or anything, just trying to help out a fellow sim racer. Understanding this stuff makes driving much more enjoyable.
Ty. I love this car too
very nice video, I'd like you to explain driving techniques with the wheel in Forza, it'd be really good, thanks
very nice overview, a few little differences to adjust to from fh5, reeeeeeaaaally wanting to see an explanation of the suspension geometry pls? I've tried to play with it but I normally do more harm than good when I do.
Thank you very mutch !!!!
Really nice video! Maybe one more for the fwd cars?
This is a fantastic video... I normally like to race using the Touring Cars, would the same principal apply here to those cars and other classes too?
Found that most laptimes u can find in late breaking and or good mid corner grip, this game likes V style driving it seems
Excellent
Thanks!
Your tuning guide help me get my first podium finish. You should get paid. Thanks
I've heard from the fast guys that it needs a low downfoemrce setup to be quick and makes it loose and hard to drive. It's not a noob stick like the corvetter
nice video mate, thanks! can i use this tips for all cars?
Man, your video is a game changer. So far the experience has not been good: I don't know how to tune and the guide videos I've seen look like I need an Excel sheet. The tunes available online? I was convinced the game sucks donkey balls because I had a five star tune on the Porsche 919 and it felt like I was driving on ice with summer tires. After watching this video, I can spend a few minutes tuning a car and suddenly it starts behaving like it should. And driving feels fun. The devs should give you a medal. I was almost ready to quit this game.
Me watching this knowing full well I don't have Forza. 👁️👄👁️
could you create a guide also on FF FR and MR layouts? the theory is in this one but Does it actually apply in this Simulator? :D
For the a game that doesn't use a photorealistic filter or look, the game does look damn good
I haven't tested yours yet, but I use 20.x-21.x (as close to .0 as possible) rollbars (so +1 rear) and 70-30 diff as a general setup and it works pretty well. I feel like 100% diff lock shouldn't work, it basically means fixed diff, which is good for drift cars, not so much for racing.
Subbed bro
Big help sir! New sub. Ty! Damping ratios are so difficult for me as other than being 1/3 of bump no other help is given. I wish the game would do a better job of explaining settings! Heck I’d love a racing school mode or something like that!
Why on earth are you maxing the front ARB in a car you’ve identified as understeer heavy? You’ve just made it more understeery. Stiffening the back will increase oversteer but it’s opposite for the front. By maxing out the FRONT ARB, you’ve effectively decreased your front grip on mid to high speed corners.
Fix understeer:
Corner entry: lower front springs, lower front bump and rebound (or do opposite on rear)
Mid corner: increase rear ARB, decrease front ARB, increase rear diff lock, decrease front and rear deceleration lock; can also stiffen suspension and increase camber in older or non-racing cars
Every damn car is understeering! I knew I wasn’t crazy!
Increase the rear bump and front rebound! Thank you! 💪💪
Go into your settings and change your deadzones, Forza has a crazy ass 24/100 setting stock lol. I dropped mine down to 5 since I have an older controller but if yours is newer you can go to 0. Doing this legit dropped my lap time on Hakone Club by more than half a second and put me from 90th on rivals to 33rd.
Yep. this helps a lot.@@austinryan4393
@@austinryan4393stock deadzones are completely fine. There's not much time, if any, to be gained there. It's just preference on how it feels
@@austinryan4393 steering linearity is also missing unless you’re on a wheel. Would help dramatically if it was available to controller players
EPIC ! I had problems tuning in the cayman GTS, it was not rotating at all and completely understeering under power. I made the setup following your info a heureka, the car is now rotating monster, the changes of direction in low speed are insane, no sign of understeer, just what u expect porshe to drive like. I dunno who makes the basic setups but they are just dog s**t.
Thanks
Tuning is OP in spec.. i keep an eye on tire friction and adjust tire pressure alignment and Aero to suit.. tweak slowly as tire ware is a big factor...
Gear Ratios i do a lap and if im not using all the gears ill tune it till I am.
Toe is a weird one.. RWD you want stability on straights and turns so it doesn't drift. FWD id go for a more turn in rear but add rear aero to compensate for the loss of stability
Nice video. Would these settings work on Forza LMP cars? (Early, P1 and the Cadillac LMHs)
does the suspension tuning segment also work for proper sims like assetto corsa?
So I play on wheel and I notice that wheel is more consistent when it comes to conserving tires. It is definitely harder to control oversteer. So I wonder how this applies to wheel.
5:30 I think you got that mixed up. IRL race cars pretty much always have negative front toe/ toe out to get rid of understeer and positive rear toe for stability.
Edit: Nevermind, it's just the wrong way around in the game😂
Correct.
Slamming ride height down to the lowest settings isn't always the best move. On many cars with race suspension, this can actually cause your car to become unstable when driving over curbs on corner entry or exit.
And this comment will ........BE FULLY MAXED OUT
Jokes aside in really appreciate this because im clueless when it comes to tuning, i knew it wasn't me that was driving slow it was these default tunes that have made me slower, now that im familiar with tuning insee my lap times improving and im increasing the AI difficulty to help me improve my overall driving
Thanks again definitely subscribing
This is my fav car in the game, too. I applied your settings and loved how the car feels right away. Question tho: did you have upgrades applied up front or did you start from the GT spec values? Because with the GT settings, no matter how hard I try, I’m not getting anywhere near the 00:50.3 not even close. 😢
Hi, liking your fm videos. Quick question, your car settings, would you think they would work on my cheap ass logitech g920 wheel?
No adjustments to brake bias? Cars default to 50/50 but i found 55-63 front bias helpful trying to get a little more front grip while trail braking. Thoughts?
This guide is giving very different information (differential, stiffness) to some of the others I’ve watched. I guess I just gotta try both ways and see which feels best for me.
This guide here turns the GT car into a videogamish go cart. Has nothing to do with GT Cars.
I've always been a fan of GT n Forza both, more GT overall but there's been times I picked Forza over GT like Forza 4 vs GT5, I haven't gotten Gt7 yet but have been playing this Forza alot, what are some of yalls opinion, which of the 2 is better this time around?
Thanks. Very good setup.
For my experience in this FM the dodge are the best car.
Witch gt car is better in your opinion?
On Logitech g920 it's so hard to catch the car do you drive that on your wheel?
Excellent video, thank you :) Ermz
i'm new to forza and i've seen a lot of tuning guides but they never show what performance upgrades to use are they not important as long as it unlocks the tuning tabs and maxes the car's PI class?
does anyone know the exact model he is using? is it a GT 3-RS? a normal GT 3? wich version? or does all of that not matter in the game?
help would be much apreciated.
What would be better sim steer or standard?
Been waiting for this! Thank you. How much of this applies to playing with a controller?
the same??? what does you controller have to do with your cars tunig .... you gotta tune how it feels best to you taking note of his tipps there
@@duesenantrieb8272 For gamepad race with 'Normal' steering to keep the car controlled with this much oversteer, and consider making the Differential settings a little less extreme if you're having trouble with twitchyness.
@@Ermz Thanks for the reply! Been having quite a few tankslappers with steering set to simulation, so I'll try normal for a bit!
Im not sure why but I've probably watched this video a good 10 times over while tuning my cars and I gotta say that ever since my cars have never done worse. Cars that use to be stable and fast are squirrley and unmanageable. My touring cars are being dominated by less than skilled drivers and im starting to lose interest in even figuring out how to get my tunings back to what they were. Idk if its just my experience but I've used this video as a reference for every tune I do. I was better off just blindly learning on my own tweaking one thing at a time and feeling how it effected the car. Btw, are all these tuning tips under the assumption that were using a steering wheel/manual trans setup? Is any of this viable for a controller?
Do you normally drive with the cockpit view or hood view?
Hmmm, a bit of an oversimplification of suspension in the Forza context, I can see how Forza isn't a sim, but if your car bottoms out it's a whole heap of pain. This is especially so with bumps as Forza kerbs are notoriously made out of ice.
As for the camber, you can validate your choices by checking tire temperatures as you corner. This is more difficult than previous Forza games as the telemetry is simplified, but even if Forza isn't a sim one could assume the logic refers to having a better contact patch into its math.
As for the PSI, it was 32PSI (2.2Bar) on the previous Forza games, but I'm not finding it the same this time around. I often run 28PSI front and 24-26PSI rear when tires are warm and the difference between that and 32PSI is night and day - this is all with race tire compounds.
I would hazard a guess the feel of a tune between controller and wheel is massively different, it was on previous Forza games, but I don't have a wheel for Forza to confirm. It's possible this tune works great on a wheel, but it could be another picture on a controller.
Cheeky bit of Northlane in the background!
Do have This avadable in-game as a prebuild setup to download for this car?
he can save the tune and share it, so you can download it in game and apply directly to your car.
How do i get this cars paint scheme?
They pushed the realism setting to a solid +48 over 50
Camber is grip in high g forces, less camber is more grip in low g forces
This is why I find the best tuner online and just use their tunes. I'm not a mechanic and can't be bothered. I just want to race.
Can i cancelled car tunning after applied ?
Don't forget to run full front and no rear aero :)
Wats best spring settings
What? Was that all tyre prerssure had in the video?
You need to make small adjustments just as ya would in real life then on to max this out max that out 😂😂😂😂😂subbed