Thanks very much. Very well explained. I normally have mine set for solo riding, off-road broken terrain all the time. Suits me for my riding style. I change it when I am going on long road trips, or taking a pillion. Ride safe ✌
The front fork preload is specifically there to rake out the bike for a more off road geometry. It takes a few seconds each fork leg with a small 1/4” socket set. This is specific to the Rally models and does not appear on the GT range.
You're quite right, I should really get the tools out and do all the adjustments rather than just the tool-less ones. The manual is very vague about the front preload settings (just says MIN and MAX). It would be helpful if it gave number of turns.
Hi, I set the front pre load to fully clockwise to put her in off road setup. My plan is/was to leave it in that set up so I only have to do as you have in the vid, on the fly just turn them another 10 clicks anti to 18 as per book. Rear to max and away we go. I set the damp and rebound on 8 for road. What I find though is that i am getting a bit of tyre bounce feel in the front end. By bounce I mean it feels like its running over corrigations, not always but on some roads or parts thereof. Doesnt feel outrageous but more that the tyre is flatish. Anyone else found this? Cheers
@@adrianedwards3091 just to make sure you’re doing it right the fully clockwise position has the highest damping, and so is most suitable for the smoothest road. Going back eight clicks anticlockwise from there gives you normal road riding mode, and going back a further 10 clicks anticlockwise (18 total) is for rough off-road
Thanks The bounce comes in after turning the front pre load out with a 19mm spanner to push out the rake angle. Any idea on the cause? Can i adjust the bounce out with dampening or prrload hand knobs on top of the fork? TIA
@@adrianedwards3091 The bounce/corrugation feeling is probably the preload being too strong, which makes the first bit of spring compression require more force. The only thing that might help is to reduce damping as much as possible, but sounds like you've already got damping pretty low. Basically pre-load will change the stance/geometry of the bike, but the spring will feel stiffer. The only way to change the geometry without it feeling stiffer is to actually use a different spring.
Hey there. Thought you’d like to know…Took mine up to cape York and back from Sydney and found the top triple clamp nut came loose flying over the corrugations which eventually made the head set come loose as well. In fact it came loose three times before I gave in and loctited it. Other than that all good.
Great video. And your slow motion showing the reaction of the suspension is extremely useful. I have a 2024 Triumph Tiger GT900 Aragon, which I love riding, but our roads in rural Kent, UK are awful, patches of missing top layer Tarmac, with the odd pothole. That I almost feel like an off-road front suspension setup would be more useful.?? With your much appreciated experience of rough roads, can you correct my thinking please. I'm thinking I need a Soft damping to take the initial shock of a Tarmac edge of avg 40mm , but I'd prefer not to have too much bounce. Am I looking at a 15 damping and a 10 rebound, only I don't want to loose stability. Your thoughts would be much appreciated, I fully respect there are variables to consider. Thank you. Best regards Pete
Hi mate, glad it was helpful. I would keep the rebound and compression settings the same unless you’re carrying extra weight on the back of the bike. The lower the rebound and compression settings (the higher the number of clicks anticlockwise), the softer and more comfortable the ride will be, but the worse the handling and nose dive on braking. If I’m on a long ride, even if the roads not particularly bumpy I will often have it down to 15 and 15 which just takes a lot of the vibration out of the handlebars and makes the whole ride more comfortable. Unless it’s really spirited riding I don’t mind the slight loss in handling.
What is a click? What is 1 click? Is it 360 degrees rotation aka a full single rotation? Or there's some magical sound while rotating it and we need to count how many times it clicks?
It would be the "sport" settings, compression and rebound damping both set to 3 (ie. just three clicks back from fully clockwise). It would need to be a nice smooth road because it would quite firm.
Yes, fully clockwise would be the sportiest, but the road would have to be really smooth and perfect. 3 clicks back from full clockwise is still nice and sporty but has a bit more tolerance for road imperfections.
I sat on a rally pro and feel the preload at its lowest settings gives me the lower seat height I need, but worried sag would suffer. What manual say about setting preload?
Sfida accettata! Ho usato l'intelligenza artificiale per generare i sottotitoli italiani (e questo commento). Non ho idea di quanto sia accurato, ma forse aiuta?
Thanks very much. Very well explained. I normally have mine set for solo riding, off-road broken terrain all the time. Suits me for my riding style. I change it when I am going on long road trips, or taking a pillion. Ride safe ✌
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video - just took delivery of mine yesterday and was thinking i need to familiarise myself with the suspension settings
Thanks for the comment, I hope you enjoy the bike.
You inspired me to set my clicker to 18. I've just been riding my tiger with the standard 8, will test soon.
Good luck with it, you'll feel a big difference, much smoother and less jittery
Nice video, you explain very well how to set suspension for sport :)
Thanks mate, glad it helped
Thanks mate … very useful info
No problem, hope it helps
Thanks alot 🤝 will defenetly Check Out some of the settings 💪
Enjoy!
The front fork preload is specifically there to rake out the bike for a more off road geometry. It takes a few seconds each fork leg with a small 1/4” socket set. This is specific to the Rally models and does not appear on the GT range.
You're quite right, I should really get the tools out and do all the adjustments rather than just the tool-less ones.
The manual is very vague about the front preload settings (just says MIN and MAX). It would be helpful if it gave number of turns.
Hi, I set the front pre load to fully clockwise to put her in off road setup.
My plan is/was to leave it in that set up so I only have to do as you have in the vid, on the fly just turn them another 10 clicks anti to 18 as per book. Rear to max and away we go. I set the damp and rebound on 8 for road.
What I find though is that i am getting a bit of tyre bounce feel in the front end. By bounce I mean it feels like its running over corrigations, not always but on some roads or parts thereof. Doesnt feel outrageous but more that the tyre is flatish.
Anyone else found this?
Cheers
@@adrianedwards3091 just to make sure you’re doing it right the fully clockwise position has the highest damping, and so is most suitable for the smoothest road.
Going back eight clicks anticlockwise from there gives you normal road riding mode, and going back a further 10 clicks anticlockwise (18 total) is for rough off-road
Thanks
The bounce comes in after turning the front pre load out with a 19mm spanner to push out the rake angle. Any idea on the cause?
Can i adjust the bounce out with dampening or prrload hand knobs on top of the fork?
TIA
@@adrianedwards3091 The bounce/corrugation feeling is probably the preload being too strong, which makes the first bit of spring compression require more force. The only thing that might help is to reduce damping as much as possible, but sounds like you've already got damping pretty low.
Basically pre-load will change the stance/geometry of the bike, but the spring will feel stiffer. The only way to change the geometry without it feeling stiffer is to actually use a different spring.
Thanks for your input!
No problem!
Hey there. Thought you’d like to know…Took mine up to cape York and back from Sydney and found the top triple clamp nut came loose flying over the corrugations which eventually made the head set come loose as well. In fact it came loose three times before I gave in and loctited it. Other than that all good.
Thanks for letting me know, I’ll keep an eye out for it. That’s a long trip, definitely on the list.
Did you ride the old telegraph track on your tiger?
Really good mate 👍
Thanks mate!
Great video. And your slow motion showing the reaction of the suspension is extremely useful. I have a 2024 Triumph Tiger GT900 Aragon, which I love riding, but our roads in rural Kent, UK are awful, patches of missing top layer Tarmac, with the odd pothole. That I almost feel like an off-road front suspension setup would be more useful.?? With your much appreciated experience of rough roads, can you correct my thinking please.
I'm thinking I need a Soft damping to take the initial shock of a Tarmac edge of avg 40mm , but I'd prefer not to have too much bounce. Am I looking at a 15 damping and a 10 rebound, only I don't want to loose stability. Your thoughts would be much appreciated, I fully respect there are variables to consider. Thank you. Best regards Pete
Hi mate, glad it was helpful. I would keep the rebound and compression settings the same unless you’re carrying extra weight on the back of the bike.
The lower the rebound and compression settings (the higher the number of clicks anticlockwise), the softer and more comfortable the ride will be, but the worse the handling and nose dive on braking. If I’m on a long ride, even if the roads not particularly bumpy I will often have it down to 15 and 15 which just takes a lot of the vibration out of the handlebars and makes the whole ride more comfortable. Unless it’s really spirited riding I don’t mind the slight loss in handling.
Do you adjust the front spring preload settings as well?
I don’t, mainly because it needs a tool and I like to quickly change the settings on the fly.
Good info
Thanks
❤
Thanks mate
What is a click? What is 1 click? Is it 360 degrees rotation aka a full single rotation? Or there's some magical sound while rotating it and we need to count how many times it clicks?
It’s a click that you can feel and hear. Less than a full rotation. Very easy to tell how many clicks when you’re actually doing it.
@lianadv thank you for the explanation. I only ordered the bike and waiting for the delivery, so couldn't go and try myself if there's sound.
What is the best adjust for high speed and cornering
It would be the "sport" settings, compression and rebound damping both set to 3 (ie. just three clicks back from fully clockwise). It would need to be a nice smooth road because it would quite firm.
Would the fully clockwise be good for sporty riding?
Yes, fully clockwise would be the sportiest, but the road would have to be really smooth and perfect.
3 clicks back from full clockwise is still nice and sporty but has a bit more tolerance for road imperfections.
I sat on a rally pro and feel the preload at its lowest settings gives me the lower seat height I need, but worried sag would suffer. What manual say about setting preload?
Unless you’re really light you might find the springs bottoming out if you let the op much preload out.
Different tire pressure is not the idea!
You mean different front and back? Or dropping pressure for off road?
Peccato per me stavo cercando questo video specifico per la mia Tiger ma non parlo inglese e quindi capisco solo qualcosa ma non tutto. Che rabbia
Sfida accettata! Ho usato l'intelligenza artificiale per generare i sottotitoli italiani (e questo commento).
Non ho idea di quanto sia accurato, ma forse aiuta?