How to press a suit jacket, with Richard Anderson
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Simon Crompton, author of Permanent Style, interviews Savile Row cutter Richard Anderson about the best way a man can press his bespoke suit at home. Includes a live demonstration with an experienced presser
Love practical, how-to tutorials like this. There’s an art to caring for your garments, which I find as equally imperative as acquiring a quality wardrobe. Cheers!
Nice, pleased to head it. More on PermanentStyld.com
Absolutely EVERY grown man should be able to press, suits, overcoats and shirts. If I have a son, this would be a right of passage.
Take a pressing cloth I use flour sack material... fold it several times to get a gentle roll start with more thickness of press cloth at first being careful not to press hard and make a crease.... you can take a piece of 1/8th inch plywood covered with felt or thin cotton batting.... you can have a straight edge plywood or concave or convex... just steam the edge more than pushing down with the iron use plenty of steam or spritz the press cloth or plywood press board batting.... you can shape the lapel to take your desired shape.... using plywood (sand the edge to a nice roundthen cover with cotton felt/batting) covered with cotton batting or felt... this board will make pressing lapels easy make 2 one with convex lapel one with concave and both with a straight edge in the other side you can make this narrow so it fits into sleeves and it will speed your pressing... when you steam let the moisture dry thoroughly and the lapel will take a nice set without a crease or sharp line which runs the drape.
You could also use a small dowel inside a folded press cloth and bend the dowel to the curvature you desire... use bigger dowel for more roll or thin dowel line a bamboo skewer for tighter roll...
Steam and pressure are important, but a properly finished garment, the presser will use vacuum to dry/cool the fabric and "set" the fibers. Of course a "suzy" can be used to steam the entire garment. A press only at a good drycleaners is not super expensive. Im a 3rd generation drycleaner and would highly recommend you don't press your suit with a domestic iron. Actually Im a bit taken aback that Richard Anderson would recommend or encourage someone to take a domestic iron to a $5K+ suit. Must not have much faith in drycleaners, LOL. BTW, knowing how to properly roll a lapel and collar is important. Ive been asked to reverse many many many bad lapel jobs. I do recommend Richards book, Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed........an excellent read.
Thanks Mike. Personally I've found it very hard to find dry cleaners that can press well - often trousers come back with double creases, and lapels are pressed flat.
In this context, doing simple things like taking the wrinkles out of the small of the back, or putting a crease back in a trouser, can be an effective thing to do carefully at home, in between full professional presses.
If I owned a 5K suit. I certainly wouldn't be pressing such a fine garment at my home. My Valet would be bringing said suit to you toot sweet. Chop, chop and off you go !!
Great pro information. I love that gentleman sporting a windsor knot instead of a four-in-hand.
Thanks.
More videos like this please !
I used rolled up towels as a cushion but I'd like a proper one. I fitted a picture rail in the room where I do my ironing to hang ironing on to let any dampness dissipate before putting things back in the wardrobe.
I would have thought there was an upper body form they put jacket on and machine that steamed and pressed jacket in 30 seconds. 45 minutes! This is quite a labor intensive process! I can't imagine my local dry cleaner uses this process.
Absolutely not - a body form can't cope with either the unique shape of a bespoke jacket, or the roll of the lapel and 3D shape. It's why the most damaging thing that happens to a bespoke suit at a dry cleaners is pressing...
@@PermanentStyleLondon Thanks! Yeah now that you mention it the dry cleaner can be pretty tough on suits and many other garments for that matter. Makes sense that a bespoke suit would need special care to preserve the aesthetic and form of the suit. Great videos! Please keep up the great work! Cheers! 👍
@@gregorythomas2674 Thanks. If you ever do want to really look after a suit, try to find a separate presser. Far more of this on PermanentStyle.com by the way - the CZcams channel is a bit of an offshoot
@@PermanentStyleLondon Grazie mille! Will check out the site direct. Never knew. 👍
Nicely done. Thank-You.
Hey dude its helpful but....what if I don't have a sleeveboard?
In that case focus on areas you can do, like the back as shown. And take the jacket to a proper presser every now and then. You could also try steaming at home, just with the jacket hanging up
Then make one... just a 2x4 covered with cotton felt.... or 1/8th inch plywood covered with cotton felt roll the edge by sanding then cover with felt.... make the edge curve like you prefer your lapel... and make the roll they way you prefer then just insert under your dampened lapel and steam ... let cool and dry well and your lapel I it's set .... if the plywood is narrow enough to fit in the sleeve you could put a 2x3 behind that or not and press sleeve... really handy to make the tools that make life easy
keep them coming!
Griff Rhys Jones off "Not the Nine O'clock News"? haha...
Hi Simon. In a domestic setting would the use of a steam generator be ideal for this particular process?
It would certainly help, yes. Not for actually lying the suit down and pressing it to that degree, but as a more regular way to get wrinkles out, absolutely
The guy in the video is not pressing properly or using the sleeve board properly.... a sleeve board should be inside the dam sleeve....a 2x4 covered in cotton felt with the corners sanded smooth can be placed inside the sleeve to press easily.... make your own tools .... and you get exactly what you want ..... use 2x4 that is low in pitch content or use hardwood or even plywood
Post a skin care/grooming video...please.
I prefer not to write about or cover areas I don't feel extremely informed about Joseph, so I'll steer clear of skin care. I think that's one way a lot of more general menswear sites go wrong. It makes them very generic
I dislike the crease he is pressing into the reveres, instead of a beautiful roll.
Yes, it's more of a Savile Row look - there is a little roll there, but only at the very end