Squier Vintage Modified Thinline Tele set up
Vložit
- čas přidán 20. 03. 2024
- "Hopefully a straightforward set up tonight" I said... and then proceeded to discover that this particular Indonesian-made Squier Thinline Tele has an unusually wide (front-to-back) nut slot. Which of course means that a standard 'Strat' or 'Tele' style nut won't fit. In the end I chose to convert another completely different nut that had the same e-to-e spacing. Despite taking extra time and a lot of careful work it worked perfectly. At which point it went back to being an enjoyable straightforward set up :)
Now one thing I'm confused about: I think this is a 'Classic Vibe' Tele... from their Indonesian factory. But the spec for the CV Thinline Tele states clearly that the body is poplar and that's what the pictures online show. But there's no way this can be poplar; I've never seen poplar with this grain. It's ash or swamp ash. So I'm a bit stumped.
Update: Facebook follower cleared up the mystery - it’s a ‘Vintage Modified’ model with an ash body :) - Jak na to + styl
Stretching the strings is so important. I learnt this from you.
(And a lot of other things.).
Thanks!
You're welcome!
Agreed.
OMG I’ve literally just bought one of these yesterday, great timing! I think the body is actually poplar and maple, not ash. Not that I can do any kind of set-up myself but this is super informative ❤
It's hard to say - some say they DID make some ash bodies in the VM range. I can't see how this is poplar; it's got to be ash.... and the bottom piece is the same material as the top (which is in two parts). I've seen lots of pictures of the poplar-bodied ones and they're very different from this ash i.e. they look like poplar that I recognise and have used before.
Hi Sam - Another great vid - Thanks! BTW I had one of those natural ash tele thinines - very similar to the one in this video and I agree with the other follower (below) who said it was a "Vintage Modified". When I bought mine (eBay) the very knowledgable and genuine seller had listed it as "Squier Vintage Modified 72 Telecaster Thinline in Natural Ash", which is what, from my research at that time, it actually turned out to be. As with many of my teles, I eventually sold it because, even though it was a beautiful guitar, I just wasn't playing it for fear of scratching it! When I sold it, I had lots of enquiries asking if it was a Classic Vibe and I also saw that, by this time, there were many similar guitars (both Natural and Sunbursts) which were listed as Classic Vibes. I bought a couple of these (in my endless quest to find "The One") that were listed as Classic Vibe (Tele Thinlines) and they were quite a bit inferior. The woods were plain (not beautifully contrasting Ash grain as the one in this vid), the necks and nuts were not so well finished and the neck woods were poorer. i also found that they all had the same problem with those bent-steel saddles bunching up at the treble end (due to string tension being greater in the bass end) Also, the original Vitage Modified ones had the wide-range humbuckers engraved "Fender", whereas the Classic Vibes have "Squier" on the pickups. (They're not the original 72 Wide Range Humbuckers in either case!) I don't know if this is true or not but, from my 10-year quest to find my perfect Tele, I've found that the earlier models (in any "range" of Squiers) are fantastic and then (presumably once Fender/Squier have convinced the market of the quality) they sport poorer woods, parts and finish. Hope this is of interest? Keep up the great work! 🙂
It's always interesting to try to 'reverse engineer' the thinking of the Fender marketing department; starting with the trajectory of the things they actually made and working back to figure out what they must have been thinking - behind closed doors of course! I think Squier already overloaded their model range... the slightly legendary, mythical, un-labelled 'SE' (?), the California (!) series, the Bullets... the Affinities, the Standard series, the Classic Vibes, the Vintage Modifieds... the Paranormals... But who am I to say; they presumably do great business. I think it only gets problematic if / when we - the market - can't clearly distinguish between them. From your account it sounds like I'm not alone in thinking a VM was a CV...
just want your opinion
i bought a expensive electric guitar a charvel
all the frets on both sides really started to sprout
i've never had a guitar do that where all 22 frets sprouted
usually its been 2 or 3 frets
have you noticed guitars with graphite reinforced necks do this?
the guitar was a jim root sig super strat
i returned because i thought what else is going to go wrong
thanks
Hi… fret sprout is entirely due to shrinkage of the fingerboard / neck. Eventually it will stop when the wood reaches its maximum dried condition for your environment. Having rods of graphite or metal etc won’t prevent the wood from drying - although it will help to stop it from twisting as it dries. All it ultimately means is that Charvel used wood that wasn’t as dry as ideally it should be. You’d hope for better from a premium brand but the truth is everyone’s trying to cut costs for the simple reason that a £1 saved in costs is a full £1 of profit; much smarter than keeping costs high and selling more product or services to try to increase profitability.
Sam, I saw you used a fluid from a brown bottle to clean the neck after the fret work. I think it had FUEL on the label. What is this?
It's 'Coleman's Fuel' a cooking fuel which is basically naptha. Naptha (such as Coleman's or Swan lighter fluid) has long been a 'finish-safe' cleaner which is great for use on nitrocellulose and polyurethane such as the finish on your Tele. I used to buy more 'industrial' 5L cans of naptha but it seemed to become difficult to buy like that; so I tracked down Coleman's as a viable alternative. Viable because it's fairly affordable, easy to find and consistent i.e. it's the same stuff every time. Hence I continue to use it.
Hello. 1st let me say you do amazing work. I am here in search of a little help. I found your channel while looking for ibanez GIO info. I am currently upgrading my new GIO GRGR120ex and i want to get some new graphtech string saver saddles but i dont know the measurements for the saddles in the ibanez T102 and sadly i do not have any tools to measure it until next week when the ibanez multi tool i ordered arrives. Any help would be so greatly appreciated. Thank you. 🍻 🤘
Hi... if your guitar is like this one here:
www.pmtonline.co.uk/ibanez-grgr131ex-bkf-electric-gio-electric-guitar-black-flat?&PMT_BAU_Search_Google+Ads_Performance+Max_Product_High+Volume&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-_mvBhDwARIsAA-Q0Q4OoDEZ3FmgVEaYqymIRhlZx-xglgxzEPxV3DtmiIOnhISmy7-oSGQaAmkPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
then you need to measure the bridge e-to-e spacing of the strings (from centre of low E string to centre of high E string). Divide this by 5 and you will get the width of each saddle piece. GraphTech does two (I think) widths of string-saver Tusq saddles to suit this; you just need to match which one fits the width you measured. Even if you bought the slightly wider one you could theoretically carefully sand each to the required width. Normally the spacings tend to be 52.5 e-to-e (and 10.5mm wide saddles) or 54mm e-to-e and 10.8mm saddles. Hope that helps!
@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars after I commented I had someone help me on a Facebook group and I got it all sorted. Thank you so much! I'm currently watching you fix up this GIO. You do great work I wish you weren't on the other side of the planet I'd love to have you work on my stuff. 🍻🍻🤘🤘
Apparently, width is more important. Alfred Hitchcock and talking to yourself is profitable. Sometimes. Delm Lee.
Problem is with nuts we don’t know whether we’re talking about ‘width’ (side to side width), ‘width’ (front to back) or…or… maybe I should be using the word ‘thickness’ after all!? The 3rd dimension. According to H.G.Wells, ‘duration’ was the 4th dimension. Can an instantaneous guitar nut be said to exist? Hmmm?
@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Just, yes. Okay? Hymn.
Yes indeed sam