Part 13 ULTIMATE Voron 2.4R2 Electronics Prep
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- LDO Voron 2.4R2 Ultimate 3D printer build! This is where things start to go a little crazy... We'll jump around between multiple sources to get the "right" parts in the "right" places. LDO has decided it could improve on the Voron team's design - let's find out how this turns out...
!!!!!!BTW when I say "48V" please sub in "24V" - My brain was stuck at work.!!!!!
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Thanks!
You should try a hook probe to pull jumpers. You can usually use the probe to catch the hole in the middle and pull upward to remove them. And the "Bumps" are called "stand-offs"
I really like your build series, it appears to be the most helpful to me as I try to ramp up my knowledge. I have just about outgrown my Ender 3 S1. I am looking forward to building my 350x350 version of the 2.4 very soon.
Everything is harder on video! Thanks for the tips!
Love the humor...helicopter method...I'm following every step now that I have caught up with your build...Keep up the great work!!!😆
Well that's what happens when you don't edit the footage!
I'll be recreating some harnesses tonight and the video will be available tomorrow! Going with Plan "A" - You know the details!
This guy is on fire with the content! Both in quality and speed!
You guys are crazy. Quality is debatable and around episode 15 people will start with the "stop dragging out this build" - I figure if I can do it in less than 40 videos I'm doing good! Videos are roughly 1 hour per, they say it takes about 40 hours to build a 2.4 - so there is my simple math!! Maybe if if a retailer or manufacturer wants to send me a kit I'll do a speed run build! HINT HINT! I think I could physically build a 2.4 in under 10hours. #LDO? #Formbot Take me up on my challenge! I need a 350!
@@BuildItBasement ya I don't even have my 2.4 built yet the new baby made my slow progress now even slower and I already want a trident 300 or 350 lol. Amount of videos is inconsequential Imo your quality explanations and camera work etc is best
Well, I did spend a fair amount of time with friends at Emerson College in Boston (Film school) *I really did but my learning anything is a joke* Fun fact I have shared before - I do my videos in a single run, 99% of the time no editing. 1% if a cat starts complaining or a kid starts... complaining.
@Build It Basement The SSR has its own mount because it acts as a heat sink.
Makes sense - never knew/thought about that. I don't recall it getting (very) warm. Great now I want to put thermal past on it!
@@BuildItBasement I thought about that too but the back of the SSR is plastic so I don't think thermal paste would help. Bummer!
Thermal paste helps everything! But most plastic is a crappy conductor. Not sure why they would need a sink if it's insulated by plastic.
Watching as I comment! I am also rewiring my 2.4. I prefer to have a 5v power supply too. I can use the potentiometer to dial the 5v in...I don't think you can do that with the BTT Octopus board.
Why the re-wire?
@@BuildItBasement My first attempt was REALLY ugly and kinda sketchy. I wasn't pleased with it.
Sketchy A/C power is scary. Did you ever see this: czcams.com/video/K-g9fokuW18/video.html Go to 46:30 - For the record my probes touched the housing of the PS, because I was working high and had to hold them at an angle for the camera. I take no responsibility!
@@BuildItBasement oh yeah I remember that! I dipped the back of my switch in liquid rubber to protect my fingers when I am reaching under there.
@@BuildItBasement I need to put some heat shrink on my screwdriver...I have big old shaky hands...👏
Great job
Jeremy - Thanks! It's one of the less exciting portions of the build - but I hate when people do the cuts and one minute have parts, they have it all together! The next video is SLIGHTLY more fun. Mounting the parts and getting frustrated that LDO couldn't have provided a few more inches of wire here and there. Maybe just stick with the original Voron instructions? So is life. Thank you for watching and commenting!!!!
@BuildItBasement I find it very interesting. For me building is easy. Electronics and wire not so much. It seems like most voron vid focus on the building process and mostly gloss over the electronics. I feel like they find that part easy for them being more tech-savvy. I like to know they how and why's of what I do to fully understand what I'm doing.
FYI I found out you can zoom in on videos on your phone while it's playing. I was able to see what you were pulling out of the board super easy. I'm not sure how long this has been an option but it's great.
Recording in 4k is helpful - plus is helps future proof some. Those little jumpers where in thee tight!. I will say that the Octopus board has those stepper drivers as close as possible! (For what it's worth those jumpers are to configure the board to use UART mode with the drivers) *since you want to know the whys.
I was considering going with a Rapido. There is a supplement in the LDO docs that talks about the high initial current draw of the rapido heater and re-wiring instructions. Did you do that? Not sure if it’s really necessary? Thanks for the videos. Having a blast going through them as I am building my kit (Siboor kit, not LDO.)
Indeed I did do that and it makes sense. Nearly all printers that are DIY use some sort of SSR to turn on AC power to the bed heater. These SSR devices use VERY little current, it is best to use that output for the Rapido - if for long-term reliability. I'm pretty sure I covered it at some point. Documentation for kit manufacturers is horrid.
@@BuildItBasement you did cover it (episode 15.). I got ahead of myself! Thanks!
Is the entire build LDO?
No - The kit is an LDO kit. There are additional parts added for additional functions or features. I'm happy to provide more information if you need - just ask!
I heard you say 48v power supply a few time, I hope you mean 24v. The Btt Octopus is 24v in and the capacitors for the steppers are also rated for 35v, not 48v. But since you are doing an Ultimate Voron Build I would say go redundant go with the 5v power supply for the pi, small 24v for the controller and 48v supply for the steppers. ( with steppers capable of handling 48v of course ). But that's just my 2 cents ;)
You are correct - My mind was at work where we do most things at 48v. I caught myself once during the recording. I just have to make sure I keep it straight during the actual testing and wiring. I have a 5V supply on my other 2.4, I have thought about that. Obviously LDO was able to shave ~$5 off the BOM by removing the second device, but I'm not sure if it was a good move or bad move. I mean the controller is also supplying 5V to other items and most of the logic is running around 3.3v. It's a tough call since I also would rather use Wagos too...
The thing is that the pi is running for hours at a time if not days. Electrical components degrade when they get hot. And the ldo (low dropout voltage regulator) that would deliver the 5 volts for the pi will get pretty hot. The 5v meanwell supply will handle this kind of load for years if needed. Running it from the controller without propper cooling will likely kill it over time with long uptimes.
I see your perspective, and I wholly agree that the Meanwell is MUCH more capable. That said the Pi under normal use will be around 2-2.4A current draw, do you have specs on the BTT? I'm not trying to counter your logic - just wondering what the board spec is at. Either way, I have one on order, I agree that not using one puts this down a notch! I'll be using 5V for other items as well, so let's go overkill! Funny thing is - my other 2.4 currently is warning me of undervolt on the Pi. It just hasn't impacted me and I'm too busy to flip it ad adjust the pot on that Meanwell.
The regulator for the 5v rail is the SY8368A which is rated for 8a continuous. But more relevant is the input voltage range feom 0 to 28 volts. If you look at the datasheet, at the efficiency vs load curve then you will see that when the input is between 24/28volts the efficiency drops to nearly 45%. That means the rest is dissipated heat. Which over time does really take it’s tall on the regulator itself as wel as surrounding components that get heated. Anyhow I’m not saying it’s gonna catch on fire. But you wanna be sure that it holds up even days at a time if need be.
Good stuff _ I usually think of efficiency in relation to current draw, not input voltage. Either way, I was on the fence because I had the same thoughts you do. Thank you for putting me over the top. I should see the 5V Meanwell by Friday. Thank you for sharing - and I hope you chime in when you have more insights!