When shipping gear.....you need to double box the unit. Fill the space between the boxes with peanuts or bubble wrap. Protect corners with styrafoam corners - prefab or homemade. It is up to the owner to ensure propper packaging. I worked at a shipping depot. You would not believe the way packages are handled in the facility. Not only via the conveyer belt systems, but also the minimally trained workers that are generally not concerned about the parcels. This is even more likely if the package is heavier than a 12 pack of coke. When filling trucks the instructions are to maximize space by all means necessary. The load must be jammed tightly....very tightly with heavy items on bottom under hundreds of pounds of weight on top of them.
I hear ya. the story behind this deck was, the owner took it to a UPS depot and the guy behind the counter did the wrapping/boxing up. The owner paid extra for this service. The bubble wrap was done well and saved this unit. The box didn't survive the trip. Double boxing is always the best way to go if you can do it. I was really hesitant to take on this repair mainly because of the shipping risks. I've had other gear destroyed because of rough shipping and it's a pain to make a claim. It made it back to the owner without incident so no harm done in the end
I grew up around TEACs, Akai,Sony and many more reel to reels. This is a treat to see. Glad you are bringing this reel to reel back to its glory. GX heads, and a nice sound, these Akai's are a treat for sure.
I deal with those microswitches all the time. I open and clean them. It sux but it does the trick. Metal polish on a business card and ipa and deox spray. You are correct that you need to GENTLY agitate the oxidization off. Same as wafer switches or contact pads or rca jacks on dual turntables. The polish melts the tarnish instantly. Nice troubleshoot and fix.
It's always easy & best to just replace the switch with new. Some people don't have the option of buying new switches and cleaning will always be the next best step. Some time spent on a old switch can bring it back to new condition with a little effort & polish like you said. Thanks
Thanks Trevor. I have an Akai GX-285D deck and motors struggling with torque issues as any old deck might. Shall use the knowledge you imparted to us viewers and address my deck. You leave a nice legacy with showing me.us how to tackle repairs. Grateful to you for sharing.
Thanks Bruce, I'm glad you joined and hopefully my vids will be helpful for you. I did receive your tip, thank you very much, it's greatly appreciated!!
That kind of noise is often caused by a transistor with "black legs" --- also known as tarnish. Sometimes, if you can get ALL of the black off, the noise will go away, but replacement is best.
The tape head didn't shred the tape - "sticky shed syndrome" was a well known problem in the day, affecting many brands of tape. The Realistic was some of the worst, and many back-coated tapes also. Maxell UD-35-90 held up pretty well (non back-coated). Coincidentally my late brother was an applications engineer for Ampex magnetic tape division and was an expert on the subject. He supervised the digital conversion of a Flock of Seagulls analog master that suffered from this.
I've been digitizing 1", 3/4", Reel to Reel, etc. and Ampex tape was my worst nightmare. The best tapes that stood the years was Maxell, Fuji and sometimes Sony for video and audio. Had to throw out 10 R-R Ampex tapes that even oven baking couldn't save it.----- Nice job on that project. I'm working on a vintage Technics M75 cassette with the same problem on the right channel. It takes time but well worth the effort
I have a Machine like this one and it seems like all the GX-230D Models had the same FF and rewind issues. I have 2 Machines the same Model and after it warms up a while, the FF and rewind work fine. Also it has alot to do with the DARN Glass Heads. As the tape gets old the Tape drags on the Glass Heads and slows it down
You can pretty much use anything that will stay where you put it. Avoid greases that will breakdown and separate into oil over time. Synthetic greases are a good choice. Keep in mind if the grease is too viscous, it will affect the operation. Graphite and Moly based greases are good for metal to metal slides too.
It is strikingly often to hear how poorly shipments are handled in your country. Here they know that if parcels arrive damaged, they will be returned straight away. And if this happens too often, it will have consequences for the companies that take care of the shipping. Is this not the case with you?
Hi, Great video! I just found your channel searching because I got a GX210D with the same can cap for the motors that I need to replace. Motors are getting hot after 45 minutes of play and lacking torque. Can you share the model of those caps you used? or Where you got them?
Hello Trevor, I am about refurbishing some old reel to reel, like Akai X201, XD 210 and my current project XD-255. you mentioned the transistor replacement of 2SC 458. what replacement do you recommend. P.s. great channel btw,
1. Always DEEPLY clean heads before any aspect of calibration. 2. Always demagnetize all heads and entire tape path metal guides before any electrical or mechanical adjustments. 3. Always test, evaluate, and adjust frequency response with magnetic tape signal at -20dBu (-10dBu on pro gear). ...........................0dBu = 0VU = 0.775 Vrms ........................ Excellent job fixing reel motor torque issue ! Since you replaced all the transistors in the record and playback path, you NEED to conduct full calibration including tape bias level and tape EQ. I'm not sure if the Akai service manuals provide ALL the info needed to carry out complete calibrations. Akai User Manuals are horrible and Service Manuals are poor. Sony, Teac, and Sansui do provide all the info to carry out factory type calibration procedures. Take a look at the Sony TC-580 service manual (or TC-758) for the ELECTRICAL adjustment steps and procedures.
@@jf-3945 JF, I'm in the process of restoring my very old Sony TC-730 in terms of mechanical and electronic and re-capping. I replaced the heads in 1983 with original Sony parts and completely aligned and calibrated everything using the Sony alignment tapes (which I still have and only used once) and tape bias was set for Maxell XL1 35-90B tape. The alignment tapes were more expensive than 4 heads + capstan roller wheel. I love working on high quality audio gear to repair. I'm not in love with restoration. I like analyzing an electronic issues or failure modes in preamp, integrated amps, and power amps to begin the planing of what measurements to make to get to the noise or distortion or outright failure. The hardest audio device to work on is reel-to-reel. We have to be so careful not to break or loose any parts. Oh, forgot to mention that my Sony tape machine has no visible wear on those old replacement heads from '83. Also, I don't ever want to obtain a 10 inch tape deck as the blank tape is so outrageously expensive. I still have unopened 7 inchg Maxell XL1 blank tape that I purchased in '84. Be Well, Gary S.
All very correct, one thing though: Although 0VU on the consumer Reel to Reel corresponds to 0 dBu, 0VU is actually +4dBu/1.228V which is the studio recording level. Thats why the service manual calls for .775Vrms calibration and not 0VU.
@@hatssafetydir9498 Damn. This is very enlightening ....sort of. It's hard for me to believe that commercial studio tape can handle that much magnetization (at +4dBu/0VU) without moderate low levels of THD. I will now have to look at vintage multi-track studio tape coercivity & thickness to wrap my brain cells around this concept. I will then download service manual for Ampex, Otari, or other multi-track recorder to examine record calibration method. I have never worked with "pro level" analog magnetic tape machines. Thanks !
When shipping gear.....you need to double box the unit. Fill the space between the boxes with peanuts or bubble wrap. Protect corners with styrafoam corners - prefab or homemade. It is up to the owner to ensure propper packaging. I worked at a shipping depot. You would not believe the way packages are handled in the facility. Not only via the conveyer belt systems, but also the minimally trained workers that are generally not concerned about the parcels. This is even more likely if the package is heavier than a 12 pack of coke. When filling trucks the instructions are to maximize space by all means necessary. The load must be jammed tightly....very tightly with heavy items on bottom under hundreds of pounds of weight on top of them.
I hear ya. the story behind this deck was, the owner took it to a UPS depot and the guy behind the counter did the wrapping/boxing up. The owner paid extra for this service. The bubble wrap was done well and saved this unit. The box didn't survive the trip. Double boxing is always the best way to go if you can do it.
I was really hesitant to take on this repair mainly because of the shipping risks. I've had other gear destroyed because of rough shipping and it's a pain to make a claim.
It made it back to the owner without incident so no harm done in the end
I grew up around TEACs, Akai,Sony and many more reel to reels. This is a treat to see. Glad you are bringing this reel to reel back to its glory. GX heads, and a nice sound, these Akai's are a treat for sure.
1h45 watching this video. Great job! There's a lot of good on youtube and you are certainly part of it!
Thank you
I deal with those microswitches all the time. I open and clean them. It sux but it does the trick. Metal polish on a business card and ipa and deox spray. You are correct that you need to GENTLY agitate the oxidization off. Same as wafer switches or contact pads or rca jacks on dual turntables. The polish melts the tarnish instantly. Nice troubleshoot and fix.
It's always easy & best to just replace the switch with new. Some people don't have the option of buying new switches and cleaning will always be the next best step. Some time spent on a old switch can bring it back to new condition with a little effort & polish like you said. Thanks
I have the same Akai. I do restorations myself. Have to finish couple projects before I can start with this one. Thanks for video.
I really enjoy your videos, great job
Thanks for watching, more to come
Thank you for another excelent video!
Thanks for watching Alexis
Thanks Trevor. I have an Akai GX-285D deck and motors struggling with torque issues as any old deck might. Shall use the knowledge you imparted to us viewers and address my deck. You leave a nice legacy with showing me.us how to tackle repairs. Grateful to you for sharing.
Glad to hear. I hope you have a idea how to address your deck's motor low torque
Just recently found your channel and am really learning a lot and enjoying your videos. Thanks for doing them and passing on your expertise.
Thanks Bruce, I'm glad you joined and hopefully my vids will be helpful for you. I did receive your tip, thank you very much, it's greatly appreciated!!
I've been sitting on a GX-636 for over a decade, wondering if it'd be worth restoring. All those servos and relays are scaring me ta death!
That kind of noise is often caused by a transistor with "black legs" --- also known as tarnish.
Sometimes, if you can get ALL of the black off, the noise will go away, but replacement is best.
The tape head didn't shred the tape - "sticky shed syndrome" was a well known problem in the day, affecting many brands of tape. The Realistic was some of the worst, and many back-coated tapes also. Maxell UD-35-90 held up pretty well (non back-coated). Coincidentally my late brother was an applications engineer for Ampex magnetic tape division and was an expert on the subject. He supervised the digital conversion of a Flock of Seagulls analog master that suffered from this.
Good info, thanks for sharing. I'm always learning new things
I've been digitizing 1", 3/4", Reel to Reel, etc. and Ampex tape was my worst nightmare. The best tapes that stood the years was Maxell, Fuji and sometimes Sony for video and audio. Had to throw out 10 R-R Ampex tapes that even oven baking couldn't save it.----- Nice job on that project. I'm working on a vintage Technics M75 cassette with the same problem on the right channel. It takes time but well worth the effort
I have a Machine like this one and it seems like all the GX-230D Models had the same FF and rewind issues. I have 2 Machines the same Model and after it warms up a while, the FF and rewind work fine. Also it has alot to do with the DARN Glass Heads. As the tape gets old the Tape drags on the Glass Heads and slows it down
"MP = Metallized polyester"
Thanks!
Thank you. I‘m learning by doing after I‘ve seen your excellent video‘s. Which grease do you use to lubricate all metal to metal slides?
You can pretty much use anything that will stay where you put it. Avoid greases that will breakdown and separate into oil over time. Synthetic greases are a good choice. Keep in mind if the grease is too viscous, it will affect the operation. Graphite and Moly based greases are good for metal to metal slides too.
It is strikingly often to hear how poorly shipments are handled in your country. Here they know that if parcels arrive damaged, they will be returned straight away. And if this happens too often, it will have consequences for the companies that take care of the shipping. Is this not the case with you?
Hi, Great video! I just found your channel searching because I got a GX210D with the same can cap for the motors that I need to replace. Motors are getting hot after 45 minutes of play and lacking torque. Can you share the model of those caps you used? or Where you got them?
Hello Trevor, I am about refurbishing some old reel to reel, like Akai X201, XD 210 and my current project XD-255. you mentioned the transistor replacement of 2SC 458. what replacement do you recommend. P.s. great channel btw,
A 2SC1845 should perform well. Thanks
@@TrevorsBench thanks a lot . Just checked my stock, available is 2SC1815. I assume there is compatibility’s given to 1845 right? BR, Holger
Hi Trevor, sorry to bother you again. With what type of transistor did you replace the 2SC458s?
KSC1845 seems to be a good standard sub
@@TrevorsBench Thank you so much!
Need help with my Akai GX-230D reel-to-reel. can't get my sound to work. Can you help? and how much.
1. Always DEEPLY clean heads before any aspect of calibration.
2. Always demagnetize all heads and entire tape path metal guides before any electrical or mechanical adjustments.
3. Always test, evaluate, and adjust frequency response with magnetic tape signal at -20dBu (-10dBu on pro gear).
...........................0dBu = 0VU = 0.775 Vrms ........................
Excellent job fixing reel motor torque issue !
Since you replaced all the transistors in the record and playback path, you NEED to conduct full calibration including tape bias level and
tape EQ. I'm not sure if the Akai service manuals provide ALL the info needed to carry out complete calibrations.
Akai User Manuals are horrible and Service Manuals are poor.
Sony, Teac, and Sansui do provide all the info to carry out factory type calibration procedures.
Take a look at the Sony TC-580 service manual (or TC-758) for the ELECTRICAL adjustment steps and procedures.
I appreciate your input. Love people that contribute to the class. i am one of them that DO like you do. :-)
@@jf-3945 JF,
I'm in the process of restoring my very old Sony TC-730 in terms of mechanical and electronic and re-capping.
I replaced the heads in 1983 with original Sony parts and completely aligned and calibrated everything using
the Sony alignment tapes (which I still have and only used once) and tape bias was set for Maxell XL1 35-90B tape.
The alignment tapes were more expensive than 4 heads + capstan roller wheel.
I love working on high quality audio gear to repair. I'm not in love with restoration. I like analyzing an electronic issues or failure
modes in preamp, integrated amps, and power amps to begin the planing of what measurements to make to get to the noise or distortion or outright failure. The hardest audio device to work on is reel-to-reel. We have to be so careful not to break or loose any parts.
Oh, forgot to mention that my Sony tape machine has no visible wear on those old replacement heads from '83. Also, I don't
ever want to obtain a 10 inch tape deck as the blank tape is so outrageously expensive. I still have unopened 7 inchg Maxell XL1 blank
tape that I purchased in '84. Be Well, Gary S.
Good knowledge. I have a fully functional teac 2300, but after using it to save some live concert perfornaces, it has sat for about a year.
All very correct, one thing though: Although 0VU on the consumer Reel to Reel corresponds to 0 dBu, 0VU is actually +4dBu/1.228V which is the studio recording level. Thats why the service manual calls for .775Vrms calibration and not 0VU.
@@hatssafetydir9498 Damn. This is very enlightening ....sort of. It's hard for me to believe that commercial studio tape can
handle that much magnetization (at +4dBu/0VU) without moderate low levels of THD. I will now have to look at vintage
multi-track studio tape coercivity & thickness to wrap my brain cells around this concept. I will then download service
manual for Ampex, Otari, or other multi-track recorder to examine record calibration method. I have never worked with
"pro level" analog magnetic tape machines. Thanks !
Утиль-старье
Unbelievable!!!
Amazing!!!