Timelapse DIY Build Cedar Sided Shed/Woodshop
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- čas přidán 13. 10. 2014
- Timelapse of a shed build by my son and myself. Build was over several months.
Ran out of space in my single garage come woodwork shop, so decided to build a garden shed for extra space. Shed was built roughly according to US timber framed house methods.
The size of the shed is 20x6.5 feet internally and it cost about 6k GBP for the materials. It could have been built cheaper but we used prime materials throughout as a once only build.
For those interested in the technicals: it is based on 2x4" framing and joists, sits on 8x4" green oak sleepers on a 6" concrete pad. Floor is reclaimed maple strip flooring over 1" plywood. Internal and external sheathing is 3/4" plywood covered by Dupont Tyvek Supro. Rainshield is Western Red Cedar coated with Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus and Filter 7. Black 5mm perspex is used at the external floorline. Roof is a single EPDM sheet on 12mm plywood. It has 4" of PIR insulation and is pretty snug in winter. Windows and doors are fully flashed to US standards. Lacomet an aluminum/fibre glass based composite was used for the drip sills. There is a vapour/draught barrier under the internal plywood sheathing using Dupont Tyvek Airguard Reflective, which also helps to retain radiant heat. - Jak na to + styl
Слушая эту музыку, я ожидал, что в финале на этом домике они унесутся в багровый закат, спасать мир или стартанут на Марс... Молодцы.
Super quality build, well done! It should last a 100 years or more. Very inspiring video, thank you for sharing!
Ahhhh...Festool! Nice work!
Good job! I love such timelapse videos.
That's built nicer than most houses
Hell of a lot of work went into the making of this building.looks fantastic.nice Video
Cheers Paul
Wow...fantastis 👍👍👍
Nice job guys! looks super tidy!
You did a wonderful job.
Awesome job!! That shed looks more substantial and higher quality than my house! ;)
I love the attention to detail and how you explained the use and purpose of the various different layers. Makes a lot of sense.
Thank you for sharing that! :)
Thanks for the kind comments
Wow wow! Beautiful x
Sweet looking shed, looks like a lot of work was put in.
That's built better then most houses in the USA
Great job my friend.
Hug from Argentina
Top class buddy!
Wow..!!!Amazing😊😊
amazing work
Fantastic! Well done
Eu achei que fosse um container revestido quando fui clicar no vídeo, super trabalho, muito bom
Exelente..y quedó hermosa
For all interested. I used "OSMO UV- protection- oil 420 clear satin matt" on my cedar to protect it from the weather and greying. It darkens the wood but brings out the lovely grain and improved the look imo. Looks lovely. 60 quid for 2.5l.
This is the best possible music ever for this video!
Same same ant...
I love.. good work.
Vi vu cute name.. Vi vu 🐧😉🐧😉
Lol had to thumbs up. The epic music for a shed build. Was like the vikings were going to attack. haha
Wtf then the music just ends? Ohh come on it was epic.
My video editing sucks :)
Neil Smith what? You're joking. It was awesome.. nothing like the crappy boring shed build videos. I enjoyed it and sure many did to. 👍
amazing..good job..
Liked watching you do the slab pour yourself, reminded me that it is actually possible... Great choice of materials, almost seems like you wanted it to last. Now if only I had the money to choice materials myself. And I swear I always have trouble figuring out the centers and spacing on everything. Currently hung up on my own design with the rafter spacing for a metal roof.
Genial gran trabajo muy bien hecho me gusta
You sir u nailed it
Awesome shed, but it had to cost an arm and a leg. Cedar siding is by far the cleanest look.
Gran trabajo 😀
Muy buen trabajo, bien terminado las tablas le dierón el toque final. 😢✌
Really nice
"Реквием по мечте"...музыка в тему))
Wow very nice
It's a shed if it has no Plumbing is a shed therefore you don't need permission to build a shed but it's built like a tiny house. Solid. Wow!🤓😉
That foundation is over kill for a shed that size, but it is definitely a solid build.
Hi can you list how much wood u used and what attach beam is it don't know what it's called but the metal thing to nail it when u were doing roof and how much was it total thank you
Very nice guys
Nice video
Захожу сюда когда настроения нет.Поугорать над комментами про музыку😆😁
Good job
Hi Neil great job would like a longer view of out side and an inside view ,love cedar look ,
G.
Hi Charles I've added the size and cost details to the description.
Dan Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I'll do an internals tour once the inside is fully complete. It is still part wood store for a stack of beech at the moment.
Over build very good idea perfect
Russians seemed to love this !!!
That concrete base may have benefited from an expansion gap
And dpc under the wood piers
Sbxbdbdgsjsjsndndnsns
Ebdbsnsjsbsjsjdmdjrllfkfl
Krhdhdhrhrjejeiwshekekf
I used 90mm insulation between there rafters and walls then 25mm insulated plasterboard over the top. Very good insulation.
There is one notice for this good work : they should to isolate the concrete footing and they should to paint the underground wood by special isolater
Beautiful
Awesome.
I all most thought thy gone put a two floor for the bedroom but that's cool gave me a idea
Can't go above 2.5m height within 2m of external fence in England
Hi Neil, shame about some of the negative comments, you did a great and thorough job. I've tyvek-ed mine and cut out the windows, folding the tycvek back and stapling. Could you tell me a bit more about how you flashed the windows? Could I just use flex wrap to cover the cill and then just rely on the tyke to keep it out of the rest. Perhaps some small strips at the top 2 corners to where the wood is exposed? Thanks. Also, has your cedar silvered at all or is it still that nice red hue?
Hi Ali, thanks for the comments. So the windows were done as follows: slope the sill downwards to the outside (plane a bevel on it) and fix a 5mm or so strip of wood on the sill aligned with the back edge of where the window would go as a back dam. Then the side and bottom Tyvek was stapled into the frame. Next flexwrap went at the bottom of the frame and about 6 inch up the sides, placed across the inside of the frame and the outside surface. Staple the flexwrap at the ends away from corners and around the outside perimeter of the curve on the front of shed. Next place straight flashing on the sides of the window and the front surface so that it over overlaps the Flexwrap at the bottom of the frame. Then flash the top edge of the frame (this area is not very critical) with either flexwrap(maybe overkill) or straight flashing. And finally bring the top Tyvek strip down and fix it internally and tape up the seams. Place the window on some thin, hard plastic blocks so that water can drain off the bottom of the sill. Flashing principle was higher flashing should overlap and shed onto lower flashing. Hope this has helped a little.
The Sikkens seems to be doing a good job; The shed's been up for 4 years now and the Cedar still isn't showing any signs of silvering yet.
hey Neil Great job!
Where did you purchase the cedar, do you happen to know the manufacturer, and is there any type of sealer on them ?
The reason I ask is because i just purchased some this year and they are a lot more later color and more of a faded look to them
Jason corr Hi Jason, They were sold by Vincent Timber in the midlands. Sorry I dont know the original manufacturer. They came untreated and were coated all six faces with one coat of Sikkens light oak Cetol and one coat of Sikkens light oak Filter 7. The Sikkens seems to have performed well so far (shed was built in 2013) as the cedar hasnt shown any sign of greying yet.
Музон весь ролик заставляет думать, что это будет как минимум мавзолей 😁
Mantap na ieu imron
What's with the music - you're building a shed not taking on the Death Star.
Hi Ed. In my mind I was
Thanks I do appreciate the reply,
One tidy man cave!
Maravilloso muy vien
Sweet!!! What type of roof. Is it some type of membrane? Let me know. Thanks
Thanks. It's 1.5mm thick sheet of EPDM rubber, glued down with PVA in centre and contact adhesive at edges.
Музыка будто ты всю планету завоевал..
Ерга Абильдин музыка как будет то Ноев ковчег строили.
Parabéns lindas
Красивый сарай, под такой музон в конце они должны были в нем ядерную зиму пережить, типа смотрят в окно зи нутри сарая, а в очках ядерный гриб отражением.
Покажи свой сарай
i watch the whole video and it's amazing to build a tiny house in 5 minutes..🤣🤣🤣
your choice is verry intriguent
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else is searching for make your own shed plans try Ichordo Shed Blueprints Fixer (just google it ) ? Ive heard some super things about it and my colleague got amazing results with it.
Bom dia. Excelente
thanks for video
Is it wood worm free that timber ?
Hi Neil, lovely job. I'm thinking of building a shed here in Dublin, Ireland similar size and maybe finishing it to similar spec. Just a quick one or two - you wrapped the building in a moisture barrier before cladding it - were those struts on top of the moisture barrier necessary as i might have nailed them directly on to the ply? Do you need some airflow there? I imagine you insulated it too - did you use boards or wool or other? I like wool myself. Thanks. James
James Hally Thanks James. The battens provide ventilation air flow and a drain path for rain that gets through the cedar boards. The horizontal battens have a bevel on top to shed water off their top surface. Two layers of battens for vertical cedar boards so that there is a space for water to drain between the battens and the boards. There’s also a gap of 10mm between the ends of the cedar boards and the cill underneath so that the cedar boards don’t sit in the wet . I got all this info from some Scottish house building guidance on building wooden structures for use in persistently wet conditions. The shed has got 90mm and 100mm celotex insulation panels in the walls and over the ceiling respectively, with a 50mm air gap under the roof deck leading out to vents in the soffits.
Great work. Were the cedar battens treated or dressed in any way, or do they come like that in different shades?
Hi thanks.The video info has the cedar coating details. The cedar boards do come in quite a wide range of shades(white, dark brown, pink) that will presumably gradually fade towards grey over time. The UV protection in the Sikkens coating will help to delay this. The shed has been up for 5 years now and the boards aren't showing much sign of greying as yet, which isn't really saying much as there isn't an over abundance of UV in the usually wet and grey UK.
Espectaculares casitas y muy ermosas k presio
Awesome work! What was the cost? Looks like a ton of timber was used! I'm gonna take a wild guess at around 6k.
???????? Onde está o final dessa construção?????
Looks great if a little over engineered?
Hi, looks great and very inspiring for my upcoming garden build. I have a question about the cladding - is it straight edges butted together or is it tongue and groove or similar? I ask because I am thinking about using recycled materials where possible and I wondered if the cladding in this is intended to be waterproof or a cover for a waterproof membrane,
Hi Andrew,
the cladding is the primary rain shield and is intended to keep the majority of the weather out. Ideally it is a durable wood ie not prone to fungal rot. This shed used western red cedar, which is a softwood with very good anti-fungal properties. The boards are tongued and grooved, and so are the corner pieces. I also used silicon mastic where the inner panels butt into the outside pieces. The cladding doesn't have to be coated if it is durable, but a coating will improve its durability and slow down UV damage.
Providing a drain path and ventilation behind the cladding, and not allowing the end of vertical panels to sit on horizontal boards will allow the rain shield to dry out after rain.
The waterproof membrane is the backup defence to stuff getting through the cladding during heavy weather, but it is vulnerable to UV damage so needs to hidden from the sun.
Main design principles for rain protection: overlap from bottom to top like roof tiles, try to keep most things vertical, provide drain paths and ventilation and try to avoid or put a shedding slope on top surface of horizontal elements.
Great job something I plan later in the year. Couple of questions. Are the studs 4”-2” and where did you source your timber.
Also what price per sq ft was the cedar, that look will never date.
Derek T Hi Derek, sorry for the delay in replying. The studs are 4x2s, however the rafters are 6x2s tapered down to 4” at one end to provide a fall on the roof. TBH it’s 5 years since it was built and I don’t remember most prices and suppliers. Studding was local, plywood was a national supplier. I bought an end of line job lot of cedar panels from Vincent timber at about 50% of the going rate for cedar panels. It isn’t cheap. Thermowood was also considered as an option for the external panelling.
Super
God job yea *yes*
Как бытовка для узбеков, пойдет!)))Хотя....проще железный вагончик поставить.!)
Причём тут узбеки
@@jannajaxybekova579 вы по видимому узбечка.Но я не хотела вас обидеть.Я это сказала как бы в кавычках))). Не обижайтесь!
Музыка такая,как будто грядет конец света!
great vid, looking to build a summer house, was that standard ply you used? did you insulate the inside once completed?
Hi Andy, there's 18mm hardwood WBP ply on the outside and 18mm spruce ply for the inside walls. It is insulated. In the walls is 90mm Celotex GA4090 and on top of the 12mm ply ceiling is a mixture of 100mm and 90mm celotex (GA4100 and GA4090). The 90mm is used on the lower half of the roof so as to maintain an air gap under the roof deck (the rafters are tapered). There is also a 'bag' of Tyvek Reflect underneath the ceiling and internal walls plywood. The insulation seems pretty effective as the shed doesn't need much heating and retains heat for a long period of time.
Hi, great video . I'm looking to build similar to this. Did you build one frame higher than the other to get the slope? Thanks
The standard technique is to nail a firring(tapered piece of wood) strip onto the top of the rafters. I didnt have enough height budget to this because of the UK height limits, so I tapered the 6" rafters down to 4" at one end. The rafters are about 10' long.
Quality bit of kit. I reckon that would cost about 8 -10 k.
Кто русский ставьте лайк, под моим коментарием пусть думает что я професионал в стройке и мой комментарий по делу!
😆
я поставлю тебе диз,,, пусть думают что тут жаркие споры ))))
ухаха )
Русские не знают про гугл переводчик?
Hi Neil, thank you for making video how it is done. I want to built small house, just almost like a shed. I kinda go how to built a frames, but my question is when you finish building the frames and you put them up, do you use NAIL to NAIL the frames and the floor base together. What do you use?. Thank you.
Hi. The pros use nail guns. I used both screws(using an impact driver) and nails. If I was doing it again I'd use just nails. They're faster,cheaper,make smaller holes and probably stronger than screws.when joining with nails try and angle the nails in different directions a little to resist pullout.use annular ring nails where the wood might be subject to a lot of movement eg floor and roof.
Neil, thank you very much for recommendation I will do that. The shed looks great. Have a wonderful day.
Can I just check what you done with the EPDM roof. You covered the whole roof with PVA minus the sides which you covered with contact adhesive?
Why not all PVA or all contact adhesive?
Great job by the way.
That was what the instructions said. Guess the more awkward to use, more expensive, stronger contact adhesive is only needed at the edges maybe as additional protection against the wind getting under the sheet.
One tip I would suggest if you do go down the EPDM route is to lay out the sheet for a while until the creases have disappeared. I didnt have time to do this because of a race against coming rain and the creases proved difficult to glue down well.
Well done Mr Smith
Thanks
when i heard the mudic i thougt you were building a shed to make nuclear weapons
How do you know I'm not? Where do you live? Can you supply GPS coords?
Why pour a concrete slab to then only build a framed floor over it?
The UK is wet wet wet most of the year round. The slab is mainly to deny space to water that would otherwise collect under the shed. I wanted to have under shed ventilation rather than a solid slab under the floor to eliminate any possibility of issues with a dodgy damp proof membrane in the slab.
Thanks grest reply
Музыка навевает мысли про апокалипсис😏
The apocalypse is nigh.
Только хотел написать об этом, симфохорал совершенно неуместен в этом видео. Тут бы лёгкий джазок...
you all ways get Americans saying your doing it wrong i think the guy know what he is doing he has all the kit a good joiner would have the UK and the US are different in the way things are done and weather you did a good job mate
Thanks
Put 5 of them together nice woek
Neil
great project !
one question though: how do you guide the rain from the roof to the bottom ?
On the finished shed there's a gutter along the low side (front of shed) and a down pipe at the far end.
Hi Neil, great build. I just finished building my shed but hung my tyvex vertically by mistake on the walls and used no tape to seal air gaps. Will I be ok or should I take off cladding to repair it?
Coco Molly Hi, the Tyvek's main purpose is to stop external water from getting to the plywood. It should be laid down like tiles on a roof so that the higher sheets overlap the lower sheets. The tape I presume stops water vapour getting up underneath the higher sheet and also fixes the Tyvek in place. I guess if you just tape your vertica seams you should be mostly OK. Good luck with your build.
Coco Molly Hi again, the Tyvek is waterproof to outside water, but breathes like Gortex to let out any water that does get to the plywood. For your situation you need to judge how well the Tyvek you have laid will keep the outside wet off the plywood eg how much does each vertical sheet overlap the next? Are the sheets laid completely vertically? Will wind blow rain water sideways at anytime? Think if there is no overlap you will at least need to tape the seam.
Muito linda
nice
How did you ensue the window was water tight? Cheers
Slashley gibbins I did these things on the windows: put a water shedding bevel and a back dam on the sill, cut the house wrap over the window hole diagonally to create 4 triangular flaps, and wrapped and fixed the bottom and side flaps inwards around the window frame (the upper triangle is left to last) flashed the sill and the lower part of the window frame sides with Tyvek flexwrap, flashed the sides making sure to overlap the sill flashing, installed the window sitting it on a couple of hard plastic blocks to allow sill drainage, flashed the sides and top of of the window to the face of the window frame, folded down, trimmed and Tyvek taped the remaining top house wrap flap, and also taped the slits in the house wrap in the two top corners. This seems a lot, but it is the recommended method for US windows in timber framed homes. The general flashing principle is flash from the bottom up and higher stuff overlaps lower stuff.
Отличная работа!
Музыка, как будто они космический корабль строят, а не бытовку
Ven Vds.? Los de Castilla-LaMancha, Si. Vamos a continuar con el caciquismo y siendo los últimos en todo? Gracias.