I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle czcams.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
Thanks for the experiment! looking forward to the demo. I cut with the 1/4" stihl bar and chain more than any other...I've gone through a few bars...they're so darn paper thin, they bend easy..bent back a few and trashed a few more...looks like a good fit for conifers...gnarly trees may require a fatter bar and chain. Thanks again for pushing the envelope!
@@jamesdavidson9626 Teach your kids, that's what I do. He's 4 an climbs trees with me he has a stihl toy saw on his belt when he goes out to learn. Soon he'll be learning saw work changes plugs and tuning. He services my saws. Air them out clean the air filter grease my bar tips.
I did the same panther setup on 12" bar with 8 tooth sprocket on my 2511t back a few months ago. Add in some carb and muffler mods aswell and im still in love with that punchy screaming little saw. Havent felt the need to port it yet but someday soon it'll be coming. Sharpening these little chains is the only real downside in my opinion
ROFL, I tried that exact Chinese saw. Trigger broke twice, sight glass leaked, kill switch had problems, over molding from the casting blocked the intake and cut into the plug wire, and finally the clutch started spinning on the crank shaft. I sent it back for a refund, bought a 395xp and I've been happily milling ever since.
Most guys out East here will swear a 20” bar is the longest bar you’ll ever need. I think I was just tuning them out and missing the “on your climbing saw” part! I love it, now get it in a tree and use it to slay some monsters!
Awesome, that saw is "deadly" as BBR would say. Lol. I'm planning a road trip to take a couple saws to the Saw King in the future. Thanks August, take care.
Love that 200 looks cool Rich has one of my 660s rebuilding it now can’t wait to get it back I sent it out there because of August showing saw shop on vids thanks August an Rich
Yes, you can experiment. It’s called being an adult, taking personal responsibility if it doesn’t work out and encountering the joy of figuring stuff out. It’s tiring to be constantly treated like a child. Look forward to seeing how your scientific experimentation works out August
I have an old saw called a Red Rocket has an eighteen inch bar , my Dad gave it to me when I was 15 years old now 66 .He also gave me a few Homelite XL 130 and XL 76 . These are great saws loud they were built in Quebec Canada . Have a Stihl 034AV very hard to start and a 028 limbing saw . Liked your video
Love to see how that saw works out. I have a slightly modded 200 T with some muffler work.. fresh build so lots of compression and a new carb slightly bigger jet. I run a stihl 3/8 low pro full chisel 38P chain. 14 inch super lightweight stihl bar. Trying to keep weight off my shoulders and knees. My 200 T burns more gas after the rebuild and mods.. so it must be going somewhere. I look forward to see how it goes for you. I like the idea of the little bitty echo.
I modded my Echo timberwolf to run an 18" Powersharp. You have to make washers to make it work as well as drilling here and there but, It's just wonderful now.
This is awesome, so now do you call this a medium saw next to the 2511? Or is the echo a micro. Can you do a weight and balance comparison video of this with a 3/8 14” and 16” bar.
This is nuts man, I love it. That 20” reach would come in pretty handy too, that thing is a monster. I was wondering your process for blacking out the magnesium parts? Did you have to sand it all and repaint? Or powder coat them?
Years ago, David Letterman had a sort of catchphrase before they'd do one of their insane practical stunts, "Remember, this is an exhibition, not a competition. Please, no wagering." I can't help but think Dave would appreciate what you do, given that he's still a bit of a gear head. Cheers, August!
August: I recommend an 18” bar 3/8lp. No chain breakage. Definitely made for wood cutting. Been running a modded ECHO CS 355T for a couple years with an 18” bar and it is awesome. Safe and reliable.👍
Since no one else has said it I feel I must: that thing looks lethal! In particular when cutting with the top of the bar since a chain snapping in this situation will cause a long length of the chain to whip around the tip, extend perpendicular to the bar and then come flying back at you. Since you said that you're planning on using it in a tree I strongly urge you to avoid or take extreme caution when cutting with the top of the bar (unless you're planning on wearing a full-body chainmail suit!) I'm in the final stages of a similar mod myself although mine is way less extreme: I'm switching my Echo CS-370ES from the factory 16" .325 LP to a 18" 3/8 Sugi pro light bar and Stihl LP chain. Note that whilst my saw is more powerful (than the 200T,) my mods are only very slightly stretching the recommendations. You've nearly doubled your bar length, added power and reduced the chain strength significantly. I sincerely hope that you don't lose an arm with that thing. Stay safe brother.
I tried some 1/4" pitch chains back in the day, on 30 cc Echo saw IIRC. It's different compared to 3/8" LP, competitor back then, but as to 1/4" being preferable? Carvers like 1/4" for use with "nickle" or "dime" tip bars. Nowadays, for small polesaws 3/8" LP NK (narrow kerf) is a good option. For saws a bit more powerful, I'm told .325" pitch chain is the way to go, with .325" NK needing less work input for a given cut. Might want to standardize a bit. Five different chain reels for spinning small chains would be a bit much. Filing 1/4" chain a bit much, ditto. For smaller saws, 3/8" LP has it covered here, with pre-spun 3/8" LP NK for "chainsaw on a stick" (sorry, Jeff Dunham.) Good idea to pass on those No-Name-O saws, with their recycled plastic moldings. Experiments are fun!
Hmm I built the ms660 "imposter" and it's a gem. It's over on my channel but I did put a heap of genuine parts in it along with a highway big bore top end and a twin port modes muffler. It's my favourite saw.
Wow, A++ man, thanks!!! Will say that putting my 18" onto my (modded, of course) 355t has crossed my mind MANY times, honestly it's less of a 'delaying saw-swaps' and more of a "I'm finding longer-bar-length gives me reach and I'll take that reach for the cost of extra 'dangle' off my belt!" thing for me :D But you're *very* right, I'm not experienced-enough to have found this myself yet but I fully see the logic in your explanation here Re being able to use it longer before going rear-handle, thanks a lot man!!! Have always seen climb-saws as "you need at least 2" ie something for a 12"ish setup(mid-20cc's) and something for a 'big/take-down' setup (mid-30cc's), say a 150t+200t or a 2511+355t, am currently using: 12" by 25cc, 14" by 32cc, and 16" by 35cc so am loving this idea, going to give my 12" to my pole-saw and make my 25cc my 10" lil-limber, 32cc will push the 16" for general-use, and the 35cc will now push an 18" (hmmmm....for experiments'-sake I've gotta say, woulda been neat to see a skip-tooth setup here ;D ) Congrats on your daughter's college BTW!
I have a Farmertec 070 and it's top notch. Not just saying it but I got a really nice one. It was a kit saw. I built it up. No plastic parts very nice metal throughout. My early kit has a Tillotson carb even. I have run it to death on my alaskan mill. Very pleased with it. It's the original orange and white kit. I have a 52" Canon bar. That blue 070 saw in this video looks nothing like a Farmertec at least the early one. My handlebar is much larger and looks much better. Nuts!
I got stihl 3/8 1.3 mm chain whitout saftey rakers been looking fore it a long time i get it from stihl down here in europe great vids love the channal
Going all the way to production and distribution thru August; North America’s leading panther distributor. Check out monkeybeaver.com for up to date info. 👊
Very cool. That was fun at the saw shop. That 200 looks I'll say different with a 20" on it. Not a bad idea though. Sure didn't have a problem cutting.
Some time ago I accidentally ordered a samurai panther bar. I recently received the 14" I intended to get in the beginning. I'm going to attempt the sprocket transformation on the 201🤷. Glad I kept the samurai bar. I want to play to. August, I get those packages fast man and I'm so happy with all the monkey beaver gear. Really digging my fresh 150' MB BAG. 😁💪🤙😎
I actually did that 1/4 pitch change on my 200 and went to an 18” trying to reduce drag on dead ash trees here in the Midwest and I havent had any notable issues.
Had a guy who used a Homelite EZ (If I remember right) with a 36 inch bar for bucket take downs. Our saw shop didn't like the bar was twice recommend, but did acknowledge the sawyer never pushed the so the power head outlasted most of our "normal" saws. BTW This was back when if you needed a powerful saw up a tree you liked to have someone on the ground hold most of with a line. Yes you really wanted another top climber on that line, and careful coordination.
I like this a lot. For me it's not about HP but time vs weight. SO... imagine what the next step would be... like a 36 inch saw on a 261cm chassis... 1/4 pitch chain. So from top to bottom of the tree in two saws.
i collect old windsor pf 25 ap chain for the very reason it is anything but safety chain, its semichisel, no drive rakes... stihl does make yellow label 1/4"pitch, its just flimsy as hell, that kind of power might mushroom the drivers all to hell in a day...experimentation is the name of the game in chainsaw carving, thats about all some of us do...lol...good video😉
I like this video, so at this point and time how is it performing...and what would you recommend another OR climber for the most lightweight (secondary) saw to haul up a tree? I'm finding that after the 201t the weight of most everything else in the market goes up exponentially...thus the dilemma :)
Im impressed.. i run a 661 Stihl everyday, always wanted to make a modded saw, wana take a 660 and put a big bore kit and dual port muffler and high performance crank and ect in it..
For what it’s worth, I’ve got a 99 cc 660 with a cnc muffler and worked over ports, lil extra squish, thumps over 165 psi cold. It looks sinister with a 32” .404 setup and sounds like a monster but it drinks high test fuel at an unbelievable rate, weighs a ton and is very hard to get started. Throws chips by the shovel if that’s what your after but I’m disappointed overall with it. Next time I’ll do a 460.
Hi August been waiting to see that bar nice. my production saws are wall hangers too.i have a 14 on my 2511t for more reach bought an echo 355t to change out on bigger would the 20 inch panther bar might be a perfect fit and more reach.
Very nice! Have many 200ts. Best climbing saw you can buy with that rps and power! Interesting improvement! One question! Where did you start and how did you acquire all of your equipment? Loans , lots of jobs! Doesn't really matter was just curious. Any way you did it , you sure learned great, and admirable skills! No matter how good we are it seems we always know someone just as skilled or in some cases much better! We all have something to share!
Is that like the Stihl Pico chain? Like on the 150T. I was going to quit climbing, as my wrists couldn't hack it anymore... then Stihl brought out the 150T and I carried on climbing. Ported the exhaust, lots more power. 7 years old and has been working full time, still as good as ever, and my skinny wrists are ok! The clip/loop for the strop can fail though, but I think Stihl sorted this. It failed on me a couple of weeks ago, in a huge Gum tree, nearly hit the groundy! Hit some branches hard as it fell. Assumed it was for the bin but somehow it snapped the spark plug and cracked the handle, and that's all. All fixed and back in action! The 200T is too heavy for me to reach out with, day after day. Most of my work is awkward branch walking, or smaller pruning, or reductions, all reaching out to tips. But I'd like a modded 200T for the straight up stuff. Your's is a cool saw! We zipped a top out, over a river, through a narrow gap. Have a look at the vid on my channel! Thanks Ed
Hmm, well on one of my 200Ts I recently ported and muff mod'd. I tried out the 3/8LP .043 I get the strength of the 3/8 plus the narrow profile of the .043 . Which is pretty much what you would want for reliability. I've tried 1/4 (had it on an old frontier climbing saw, but the teeth didn't have the durability). Especially if you clipped a hidden nail or clothesline hook with it. 3/8 just a bit stronger, often enough to resist the break and let you finish the job. Been using it with a 16" but was thinking of trying an 18 or 20. I haven't looked at the panther bars yet, but I seem to remember some longer .043 sprocket and hard nosed bars in homelite and frontier.....
Just found the Canon bar that would do the trick. CCT-C1-20-43 20" .043 and available in .375 (3/8) . The weight option makes more sense going the .043 route, since each drive link is thinner and lighter. 1/4" is still .050. Plus logically the .043 bar will hopefully be lighter than the .050 of the same length, but would have to put them on a scale to confirm that.
August.... I was born in Salem,OR grew up in Spokane,WA moved to Las Vegas,NV when I was 15 been here for the most part since. Oh I'm now 42. Anyways I love the videos. My ex-fiance was a tree trimmer in Sacramento. I helped him trim a few trees and do a couple removals but we have 🌴 here in Vegas and some of them get to be quite tall like 60+ feet. I was wondering if you had no crane just a ladder and chainsaw and your climbing gear how would you remove a 64ft tall 🌴? Or how much would it cost to have a professional do it. Money is a factor like a huge one which is why I'm asking. No I wouldn't ever attempt to remove something this big or even trim/skin it alone.
I run 1/4" .050 instead of the flimsy .043 and haven't broken a chain yet on my modded 2511T but haven't tried it on a 200, sprockets are hard to find for it. I just put it on my battery Husqvarna, very beneficial, not sure why they don't come with it from factory.
There is an 8T spur sprocket, and an 8T rim sprocket kit available on the web for a 200T ;) I have the rim sprocket kit but it wasn't OEM so it didn't come with a rim sprocket worm gear.
I carry a little stihl chainsaw with me on my side by side in case I get stuck and need to make a path. I was driving up a creek one day and I noticed the water coming up over the windshield so I got nervous and just focused on getting out of the creek and forgot about the chainsaw under a foot of water on the floorpan in the passenger side. I tried to give it a pull and it was locked solid. So I took out the spark plug and sprayed in some carb cleaner I did the same with the air cleaner and carb I pulled it a few times to let the water run out of the cylinder head. Then I put it back together and it started right up within 5 pulls. I'll never buy anything besides a stihl after that.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle czcams.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I absolutely love listening to the shop talk.
Just the right amount of, “don’t do it,” to make the masses go get a 200t w/20” bar and .25pitch chain.
Yea if you can find one?
... if you can build one
Sounds like a beast, the saw king is known for his high quality work.
I remember the bucket saw he did for August awhile back.
Thanks for the experiment! looking forward to the demo. I cut with the 1/4" stihl bar and chain more than any other...I've gone through a few bars...they're so darn paper thin, they bend easy..bent back a few and trashed a few more...looks like a good fit for conifers...gnarly trees may require a fatter bar and chain. Thanks again for pushing the envelope!
You took your teenage daughter and her friend to look at chainsaws 😂😂
She's about ready to get her bachelor's degree bud, she isn't a teenager
That whooshing sound is a sentimental, protective Dad's point clearing your head at 6' AGL, Mach .8.
Love the fact that you mentioned bucking Billy Ray in your video ! August you are awesome ! Love all the way from South Africa Cape Town
The chainsaw guy is cool.😎
@@jamesdavidson9626 Teach your kids, that's what I do. He's 4 an climbs trees with me he has a stihl toy saw on his belt when he goes out to learn. Soon he'll be learning saw work changes plugs and tuning. He services my saws. Air them out clean the air filter grease my bar tips.
I did the same panther setup on 12" bar with 8 tooth sprocket on my 2511t back a few months ago. Add in some carb and muffler mods aswell and im still in love with that punchy screaming little saw. Havent felt the need to port it yet but someday soon it'll be coming. Sharpening these little chains is the only real downside in my opinion
ROFL, I tried that exact Chinese saw. Trigger broke twice, sight glass leaked, kill switch had problems, over molding from the casting blocked the intake and cut into the plug wire, and finally the clutch started spinning on the crank shaft. I sent it back for a refund, bought a 395xp and I've been happily milling ever since.
Most guys out East here will swear a 20” bar is the longest bar you’ll ever need. I think I was just tuning them out and missing the “on your climbing saw” part! I love it, now get it in a tree and use it to slay some monsters!
Great seeing 2 men talking shop who are tops in their overlapping professions.
Thanks for the explanation about the benefits of the smaller chain.
Rich builds best saws around. I have 5 from him never had one problem with any of the work he’s done. Definitely a legend in the saw building world
Awesome, that saw is "deadly" as BBR would say. Lol. I'm planning a road trip to take a couple saws to the Saw King in the future. Thanks August, take care.
Need to get a 200 t had one my old boss ran it over and wouldn’t replace it and can hardly find em round here
8:18 is when the cutting starts
Beard coming in nice August
Love that 200 looks cool Rich has one of my 660s rebuilding it now can’t wait to get it back I sent it out there because of August showing saw shop on vids thanks August an Rich
Wait is this "welcome to shop talk"? The only way I remember his videos! I love it!
Holy hell small world I went to high school with Hannah lol now im starting line clearance tree trimming and watching your vids. 🤣
Ermagerd August, you bucked branch without ppe and you didn’t die!
You are indeed a super hero.
I worked for Huffman&Wright in 1978, and had completely forgotten what kind of saws we had. Wow, we were old school, saws have come a long way.
That thing is a beast
It’s definitely a benefit to stay as light on weight for as long as you can
Normally us designers hand out a “safe specification” that we know won’t lead to warranties. In the R&D stage anything goes :D
By far one of the coolest chain saw videos I ever saw. Theres geeks out there that will have no problem handing you a grand for the saw
Yes, you can experiment. It’s called being an adult, taking personal responsibility if it doesn’t work out and encountering the joy of figuring stuff out. It’s tiring to be constantly treated like a child.
Look forward to seeing how your scientific experimentation works out August
August, I've found you can take safety rakers off in just a few minutes with a bench grinder. Give it a try sometime. Great video.
why waste the time if you dont have to??
Good too 1/4 a Moose A nice thin kerf and small bone chips Just use Peanut oil for the bar
I have an old saw called a Red Rocket has an eighteen inch bar , my Dad gave it to me when I was 15 years old now 66 .He also gave me a few Homelite XL 130 and XL 76 . These are great saws loud they were built in Quebec Canada . Have a Stihl 034AV very hard to start and a 028 limbing saw . Liked your video
"Climbing saw"
Love to see how that saw works out. I have a slightly modded 200 T with some muffler work.. fresh build so lots of compression and a new carb slightly bigger jet. I run a stihl 3/8 low pro full chisel 38P chain. 14 inch super lightweight stihl bar. Trying to keep weight off my shoulders and knees. My 200 T burns more gas after the rebuild and mods.. so it must be going somewhere.
I look forward to see how it goes for you. I like the idea of the little bitty echo.
I love the 1/4" picco setup! I use my 150 more then I use my 200t nowadays 😝👍
Got a 194t and shes NASTY so far cut 2 huge maples one big willow oak and a birch. Ate em all no problem!
I run 1/4 pitch on my Echo climber......it's like a fillet knife!
I love the idea of fast cuts n go home early especial with the crane sitting around
“Caddywompus” haven’t heard that in a while haha 😂!
Hi august, didnt know that batman use cheap chainsaws!
stay kind, have a good day! : )
NOW ITS ALL DIRTY...GONNA GET YOUR WALL DIRTY, WHEN YOU HANG IT😂
STAY SAFE
I modded my Echo timberwolf to run an 18" Powersharp. You have to make washers to make it work as well as drilling here and there but, It's just wonderful now.
This is awesome, so now do you call this a medium saw next to the 2511? Or is the echo a micro. Can you do a weight and balance comparison video of this with a 3/8 14” and 16” bar.
This is nuts man, I love it.
That 20” reach would come in pretty handy too, that thing is a monster.
I was wondering your process for blacking out the magnesium parts? Did you have to sand it all and repaint? Or powder coat them?
I believe he cerakotes them. Saw that on another one of his videos.
Years ago, David Letterman had a sort of catchphrase before they'd do one of their insane practical stunts, "Remember, this is an exhibition, not a competition. Please, no wagering." I can't help but think Dave would appreciate what you do, given that he's still a bit of a gear head.
Cheers, August!
lol... imagine having dave in your ear while youre cgainsaw carving on national t.v., ... he is a hell of a cool guy😁
How do you compare the panther chain and bar compared to the Oregon chain and bar? Pro type of course
thechainsawguy is a king of his craft
Man that was sweet! I’d like mine setup like that!
Wicked beast. Rich is a awesome saw mechanic.
The saw seems to work great, but the look inside that shop for a moment was awesome. There's some knowledge there.
August: I recommend an 18” bar 3/8lp. No chain breakage. Definitely made for wood cutting. Been running a modded ECHO CS 355T for a couple years with an 18” bar and it is awesome. Safe and reliable.👍
Since no one else has said it I feel I must: that thing looks lethal! In particular when cutting with the top of the bar since a chain snapping in this situation will cause a long length of the chain to whip around the tip, extend perpendicular to the bar and then come flying back at you. Since you said that you're planning on using it in a tree I strongly urge you to avoid or take extreme caution when cutting with the top of the bar (unless you're planning on wearing a full-body chainmail suit!)
I'm in the final stages of a similar mod myself although mine is way less extreme: I'm switching my Echo CS-370ES from the factory 16" .325 LP to a 18" 3/8 Sugi pro light bar and Stihl LP chain. Note that whilst my saw is more powerful (than the 200T,) my mods are only very slightly stretching the recommendations. You've nearly doubled your bar length, added power and reduced the chain strength significantly. I sincerely hope that you don't lose an arm with that thing. Stay safe brother.
I tried some 1/4" pitch chains back in the day, on 30 cc Echo saw IIRC. It's different compared to 3/8" LP, competitor back then, but as to 1/4" being preferable? Carvers like 1/4" for use with "nickle" or "dime" tip bars. Nowadays, for small polesaws 3/8" LP NK (narrow kerf) is a good option. For saws a bit more powerful, I'm told .325" pitch chain is the way to go, with .325" NK needing less work input for a given cut. Might want to standardize a bit. Five different chain reels for spinning small chains would be a bit much. Filing 1/4" chain a bit much, ditto. For smaller saws, 3/8" LP has it covered here, with pre-spun 3/8" LP NK for "chainsaw on a stick" (sorry, Jeff Dunham.) Good idea to pass on those No-Name-O saws, with their recycled plastic moldings. Experiments are fun!
I love that place I’m gonna have to get me some of that awesome Quarter pitch chain looks like my grinders ready
Good stuff here , beyond my knowledge of chainsaws but still good info to look into for a nooby, thank you
Hmm I built the ms660 "imposter" and it's a gem.
It's over on my channel but I did put a heap of genuine parts in it along with a highway big bore top end and a twin port modes muffler.
It's my favourite saw.
Wow, A++ man, thanks!!! Will say that putting my 18" onto my (modded, of course) 355t has crossed my mind MANY times, honestly it's less of a 'delaying saw-swaps' and more of a "I'm finding longer-bar-length gives me reach and I'll take that reach for the cost of extra 'dangle' off my belt!" thing for me :D But you're *very* right, I'm not experienced-enough to have found this myself yet but I fully see the logic in your explanation here Re being able to use it longer before going rear-handle, thanks a lot man!!! Have always seen climb-saws as "you need at least 2" ie something for a 12"ish setup(mid-20cc's) and something for a 'big/take-down' setup (mid-30cc's), say a 150t+200t or a 2511+355t, am currently using:
12" by 25cc,
14" by 32cc, and
16" by 35cc
so am loving this idea, going to give my 12" to my pole-saw and make my 25cc my 10" lil-limber, 32cc will push the 16" for general-use, and the 35cc will now push an 18" (hmmmm....for experiments'-sake I've gotta say, woulda been neat to see a skip-tooth setup here ;D )
Congrats on your daughter's college BTW!
I have a Farmertec 070 and it's top notch. Not just saying it but I got a really nice one. It was a kit saw. I built it up. No plastic parts very nice metal throughout. My early kit has a Tillotson carb even. I have run it to death on my alaskan mill. Very pleased with it. It's the original orange and white kit. I have a 52" Canon bar. That blue 070 saw in this video looks nothing like a Farmertec at least the early one. My handlebar is much larger and looks much better. Nuts!
I got stihl 3/8 1.3 mm chain whitout saftey rakers been looking fore it a long time
i get it from stihl down here in europe great vids love the channal
Thanks for the info and letting us tag along.
Top Saw the Stihl 020..great
Love the chainsaw guy. He builds some quality saws!
Now this!!!!! Is the bested vid in a long time! !!!😲😲😲 Nice.😆 on the road love seeing this stuff after in the tree for years 😆 hehe.👍
Will be interesting to see how things go with that set up.
It's nice to see that some people are still looking for the next improvement in saw performance.
Going all the way to production and distribution thru August; North America’s leading panther distributor. Check out monkeybeaver.com for up to date info. 👊
Very cool. That was fun at the saw shop. That 200 looks I'll say different with a 20" on it. Not a bad idea though. Sure didn't have a problem cutting.
Some time ago I accidentally ordered a samurai panther bar. I recently received the 14" I intended to get in the beginning. I'm going to attempt the sprocket transformation on the 201🤷. Glad I kept the samurai bar. I want to play to. August, I get those packages fast man and I'm so happy with all the monkey beaver gear. Really digging my fresh 150' MB BAG. 😁💪🤙😎
I actually did that 1/4 pitch change on my 200 and went to an 18” trying to reduce drag on dead ash trees here in the Midwest and I havent had any notable issues.
Can we get an update on this setup? I’m thinking about trying a mod 362 with a cannon supermini bar and stihl ps chain
Great stuff!
Had a guy who used a Homelite EZ (If I remember right) with a 36 inch bar for bucket take downs. Our saw shop didn't like the bar was twice recommend, but did acknowledge the sawyer never pushed the so the power head outlasted most of our "normal" saws. BTW This was back when if you needed a powerful saw up a tree you liked to have someone on the ground hold most of with a line. Yes you really wanted another top climber on that line, and careful coordination.
Thanks for the comment.
August it sounds like that chain was a little tight. I can hear screaming on the bar.🙉
Dude I don’t even climb trees anymore and I want this saw . I’ll find something to cut with it !
nice vid AND VERY NICE SAW!!
I like this a lot. For me it's not about HP but time vs weight. SO... imagine what the next step would be... like a 36 inch saw on a 261cm chassis... 1/4 pitch chain. So from top to bottom of the tree in two saws.
Black stealth saw 👀 sweet saw . ⚒️👍
i collect old windsor pf 25 ap chain for the very reason it is anything but safety chain, its semichisel, no drive rakes... stihl does make yellow label 1/4"pitch, its just flimsy as hell, that kind of power might mushroom the drivers all to hell in a day...experimentation is the name of the game in chainsaw carving, thats about all some of us do...lol...good video😉
I like this video, so at this point and time how is it performing...and what would you recommend another OR climber for the most lightweight (secondary) saw to haul up a tree? I'm finding that after the 201t the weight of most everything else in the market goes up exponentially...thus the dilemma :)
Im impressed.. i run a 661 Stihl everyday, always wanted to make a modded saw, wana take a 660 and put a big bore kit and dual port muffler and high performance crank and ect in it..
For what it’s worth, I’ve got a 99 cc 660 with a cnc muffler and worked over ports, lil extra squish, thumps over 165 psi cold.
It looks sinister with a 32” .404 setup and sounds like a monster but it drinks high test fuel at an unbelievable rate, weighs a ton and is very hard to get started. Throws chips by the shovel if that’s what your after but I’m disappointed overall with it.
Next time I’ll do a 460.
chainsaw guy is unbelievably dedicated to his field. Who buys stuff just to decommission it?
he isn't the government.
Holy shit August that 20 bar and chain setup eats. That’s it I’m buying it haha 🤣
That's gonna be very handy. Nice👍
Hey August, did you try to open the oiler to maximum on the saw for this Panther b&c to make it last more?
Definitely a one off look I love it man
I love that 200 man, also the 1/4 is harder to sharpen atleast by hand.
Hi August been waiting to see that bar nice. my production saws are wall hangers too.i have a 14 on my 2511t for more reach bought an echo 355t to change out on bigger would the 20 inch panther bar might be a perfect fit and more reach.
1k(Tu) vs 25(Td) is a sign that you are doing good!.
Thats one badass chainsaw
Keyboard warriors in the house say "but but but..."
Lawyers in the house say "but but but..."
Morris Day and the Time say "but but my @$$."
Very nice! Have many 200ts. Best climbing saw you can buy with that rps and power! Interesting improvement! One question! Where did you start and how did you acquire all of your equipment? Loans , lots of jobs! Doesn't really matter was just curious. Any way you did it , you sure learned great, and admirable skills! No matter how good we are it seems we always know someone just as skilled or in some cases much better! We all have something to share!
Favor from God, Work, contacts, work, and also work.
Is that like the Stihl Pico chain? Like on the 150T.
I was going to quit climbing, as my wrists couldn't hack it anymore... then Stihl brought out the 150T and I carried on climbing. Ported the exhaust, lots more power. 7 years old and has been working full time, still as good as ever, and my skinny wrists are ok! The clip/loop for the strop can fail though, but I think Stihl sorted this. It failed on me a couple of weeks ago, in a huge Gum tree, nearly hit the groundy! Hit some branches hard as it fell. Assumed it was for the bin but somehow it snapped the spark plug and cracked the handle, and that's all. All fixed and back in action!
The 200T is too heavy for me to reach out with, day after day. Most of my work is awkward branch walking, or smaller pruning, or reductions, all reaching out to tips. But I'd like a modded 200T for the straight up stuff. Your's is a cool saw!
We zipped a top out, over a river, through a narrow gap. Have a look at the vid on my channel!
Thanks Ed
Super bee motor on that Chrysler
Very cool, never see this stuff in the UK.
You and I must be in the same area. Notice all that madrone and love to burn it. Cheers
Thats all we had growing up was 1/4 pitch on my 015l
man where did you come up with a black 200t ..........
Hmm, well on one of my 200Ts I recently ported and muff mod'd. I tried out the 3/8LP .043
I get the strength of the 3/8 plus the narrow profile of the .043 . Which is pretty much
what you would want for reliability. I've tried 1/4 (had it on an old frontier climbing saw, but the teeth didn't have the durability). Especially if you clipped a hidden nail or clothesline hook with it. 3/8 just a bit stronger, often enough to resist the break and let you finish the job.
Been using it with a 16" but was thinking of trying an 18 or 20. I haven't looked at the panther bars yet, but I seem to remember some longer .043 sprocket and hard nosed bars in homelite and frontier.....
Just found the Canon bar that would do the trick. CCT-C1-20-43
20" .043 and available in .375 (3/8) . The weight option makes more sense going the .043 route, since each drive link is thinner and lighter. 1/4" is still .050.
Plus logically the .043 bar will hopefully be lighter than the .050 of the same length, but would have to put them on a scale to confirm that.
Any opinions out there on the Oregon Powersharp kit for a Stihl Ms 170? Homeowner saw for cutting three stumps and roots?
August.... I was born in Salem,OR grew up in Spokane,WA moved to Las Vegas,NV when I was 15 been here for the most part since. Oh I'm now 42. Anyways I love the videos. My ex-fiance was a tree trimmer in Sacramento. I helped him trim a few trees and do a couple removals but we have 🌴 here in Vegas and some of them get to be quite tall like 60+ feet. I was wondering if you had no crane just a ladder and chainsaw and your climbing gear how would you remove a 64ft tall 🌴? Or how much would it cost to have a professional do it. Money is a factor like a huge one which is why I'm asking. No I wouldn't ever attempt to remove something this big or even trim/skin it alone.
No ladder and chainsaw. Bad idea. Medical bills are way more than tree service bills.
I run 1/4" .050 instead of the flimsy .043 and haven't broken a chain yet on my modded 2511T but haven't tried it on a 200, sprockets are hard to find for it. I just put it on my battery Husqvarna, very beneficial, not sure why they don't come with it from factory.
Did you name drop Buckin Billy Ray Smith? when yuo saw the McColloch saws? and as though a shout out to him you buck into that pile of madrone.
Got to figure out what bar I wan on my 200t when I get it back from Buxton😁😁
I've been watching you forever, and now I see you are 50 miles from my house. What brings you to myrtle creek?
Interesting. I hope you continue to evaluate this saw and let us know how it goes with an honest evaluation. Who modified your 200t?
Saw king
August Hunicke I will look for them. Location?
There is an 8T spur sprocket, and an 8T rim sprocket kit available on the web for a 200T ;)
I have the rim sprocket kit but it wasn't OEM so it didn't come with a rim sprocket worm gear.
The speed cut nano by Oregon is sweet
I carry a little stihl chainsaw with me on my side by side in case I get stuck and need to make a path. I was driving up a creek one day and I noticed the water coming up over the windshield so I got nervous and just focused on getting out of the creek and forgot about the chainsaw under a foot of water on the floorpan in the passenger side. I tried to give it a pull and it was locked solid. So I took out the spark plug and sprayed in some carb cleaner I did the same with the air cleaner and carb I pulled it a few times to let the water run out of the cylinder head. Then I put it back together and it started right up within 5 pulls. I'll never buy anything besides a stihl after that.