Nice Video. But I still do not know if there is a special way to install the spider in the yokes so the grease fitting wholes are compressed not elongated when the drive shaft is assembled to be powering the vehicle in forward gears.
Interestingly a non greasable ujoint must be disassembled and reassembled to install it. Upon doing so, too much grease can make it hydraulically lock and not enough grease may/may not cause an issue. Some grease can surely get displaced when removing the cap, as shown here, and then due to difficulty getting it back together Wiping it off may be necessary. I feel like packing it with that much grease beyond the needle bearings already being coated in grease may/ may not be unnecessary. As far as I know a non greaseable ujoint has seals that will trap the grease inside, and a greasable one has seals that are designed to allow grease to come out, so I wonder how often one would have to top them off and what the differences are in longevity between greaseable and non greasable.
About every three to five thousand miles or at least every oil change. Grease u joints get a bad rap because just vehicle owners only know how to turn the keys. The mechanic will install zerk ujoints because of cost and that ujoint will never see grease again in it's short life.
i've grown a preference for the greasable ones because they are quiet, smooth, and easy to operate which is important to me. the non greasable have seals which make it very stiff and noisy, plus these spicer ones i got were garbage with these little plastic washers inside the caps that squish very easily and cause runout issues.
Hi there nice info! I'm searching for u-joint, as in driveline, comparisons. Do you know anyone who has compared wear, load abilities, and resistance to operational grime with OEM new u-joints and a few popular aftermarket brands too? Like Moog to Spicer to Toyota to GM, etc. I am especially interested in tests between the same size of competitive brands of both sealed and re-greaseable universal joints. Thanks!
This is completely stupid! if you would just manufacture these with a zerk fitting for EACH bearing cap separately, you wouldn't have to take it all apart to find out why one or more aren't getting grease ! it's also brand new!!! the main cause of any of my U joints like this, is because of one cap becoming plugged with rusty shit after a while and FAILING!
THANK YOU ! GOOD VIDEO.
Wish they would put this fitting in the Rams , damn Zerk fittings
That's kinda fun! Now I know how that all works.
logic1675, glad you liked the video! What other video topics are you interested in?
Nice Video. But I still do not know if there is a special way to install the spider in the yokes so the grease fitting wholes are compressed not elongated when the drive shaft is assembled to be powering the vehicle in forward gears.
How much purging is sufficient?
Interestingly a non greasable ujoint must be disassembled and reassembled to install it. Upon doing so, too much grease can make it hydraulically lock and not enough grease may/may not cause an issue. Some grease can surely get displaced when removing the cap, as shown here, and then due to difficulty getting it back together Wiping it off may be necessary. I feel like packing it with that much grease beyond the needle bearings already being coated in grease may/ may not be unnecessary. As far as I know a non greaseable ujoint has seals that will trap the grease inside, and a greasable one has seals that are designed to allow grease to come out, so I wonder how often one would have to top them off and what the differences are in longevity between greaseable and non greasable.
About every three to five thousand miles or at least every oil change. Grease u joints get a bad rap because just vehicle owners only know how to turn the keys. The mechanic will install zerk ujoints because of cost and that ujoint will never see grease again in it's short life.
i've grown a preference for the greasable ones because they are quiet, smooth, and easy to operate which is important to me. the non greasable have seals which make it very stiff and noisy, plus these spicer ones i got were garbage with these little plastic washers inside the caps that squish very easily and cause runout issues.
Is this a lithium type grease? Don't want to be mixing types that don't get along with each other...
When you're an offroad enthusiast but don't know what to look up
After how many miles should this be greased?
8k miles
Hi there nice info! I'm searching for u-joint, as in driveline, comparisons. Do you know anyone who has compared wear, load abilities, and resistance to operational grime with OEM new u-joints and a few popular aftermarket brands too? Like Moog to Spicer to Toyota to GM, etc.
I am especially interested in tests between the same size of competitive brands of both sealed and re-greaseable universal joints. Thanks!
finally got some explain why some cups "purge" and some do not...
I have been trying to look up spicer u joints for my 88 international Cab Over semi and the part number pulls up nothing
Hello! Which part number are you searching for? You can search by year/make/model at www.danaaftermarket.com.
And thats how a plumpus is made .... RICK AND MORTY :-)
Maybe how differentials compare, open vs lsd. Stuff like that
I never knew this
Could you please tell me the background music of this Video?
Oliver Ba
Darude sandstorm
music too loud
Need for 40mm
This is completely stupid! if you would just manufacture these with a zerk fitting for EACH bearing cap separately, you wouldn't have to take it all apart to find out why one or more aren't getting grease ! it's also brand new!!! the main cause of any of my U joints like this, is because of one cap becoming plugged with rusty shit after a while and FAILING!
@Rhetorical Answer
Yup
Excellent idea but their in the business of selling ujoints, finding any with anyway to grease anymore is practically impossible for pickups
I believe there is 1 brand that has greaseable fittings on each leg.
Mad gay, yo!