I have the Snap-on Tech Angle in 1/2", 3/8“, and 1/4". I love them. Expensive as hell, but worth it. They've long paid themselves off. Also have a 1/4" GearWrench click style, usually for plastic valve covers. 👍👍
I work at a RV service center. A couple of us have our own torque wrenches but not really necessary. For the shop, we have a Snap On click type 1/2" dr torque wrench for trailer lug nuts and hitch and towing component assembly. We also have a K-D tools 3/4" dr. torque wrench for class A lug nuts and suspension upgrades
I first bought SO split-beam cuz was doing lots of tires as lube tech. The greatest advantage is change setting on the fly. Imagine doing a Honda wheel @ 80 ftlb and next one is Ford or GM suv @ 150 & 140 and having to turn that dial with your wrist is very taxing. Though I do notice gauge on split-beam do walk-off a little after torquing some fastener. Then I bought that long SO 1/2 digital torque wrench FRM showing for Ford caliper anchor bolts that require 224 ftlb, which shop's regular 1/2 SO digital's length is showing its limitation. On side note, FRM is right about VW axle bolt tightness. It's like over 300ftlb when following VW's procedure. Thirdly, I got the same SO 1/4 digital in the vid for oil pan and intake plenum bolts. I can't trust myself with a 3/8 on these M6 & M5 bolts.
My Gearwrench 3/8" digital torque wrench with angle is awesome..great for engine work.. I've got a click type 1/2" DeWalt kit for wheels.. I've got Pittsburgh 1/4" and 3/4" for when I need them and they work great 👍 Split beam torque wrenches are actually pretty precise
We have a bloke who comes to our workshop and calibrates and repairs torque wrenches. Thats all he does. He swears that the dual beam wrenches are the most accurate and reliable.
The Quinn digital torque wrenches are awesome. I use them everyday as a diesel mechanic. I believe torquing is mostly important for internals but not always necessary for externals. You have to use your judgement. When you do it professionally everyday you don’t have time to torque every single nut or bolt
@strongerthanbigfoot Have you used the Quinn digital torque wrench on cylinder head bolts? How has it been holding up thus far being used daily in a professional setting? I’m a tech aswell and looking into getting a 1/2” digital torque wrench for Subaru cylinder head bolts.
Pinion drag is my main use for 1/4 in torque wrench 7-14 inch lbs, you said "back in the day" i only had 3/8 and 1/2 inch torque wrench's................ so how'd you do pinion drag? Don't answer i already know.......i seen it, lol my shop foreman used to grumble when i broke my torque wrench out.........."your killing me small's" that was his favorite line.
What about beam style! My dad gave me my first Torque Wrench 3/8 dr Craftsman beam . First one I bought for myself quarter inch Drive click type. I was doing valve cover gaskets. Transmission pan gaskets. Tymon case covers. Far more than anything that required half-inch drive or even 3/8 drive. For many years shops provided that half inch torque wrench. I recently purchased one of the snap on digital’s, half inch drive the longer one only because I thought it was a good deal and I needed it for an upcoming job knowing I was going to do several cylinder heads with a degree to torque specs. I’m one of those and if I can get a torque wrench on it are usually torque it.
I have a whole drawer of Snap On torque wrenches: QDR series in 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2”, TechAngle in the same sizes and then a Precision Instruments 3/4” clicker type. I tell people I have spent WAY too much money on torque wrenches to leave them in my tool box. For me, internal engine, steering, suspension and brakes get torqued to spec.
I think the biggest thing for me with torque wrenches, is that 99% of people don't need and will never use the features that a digital offers. It makes me wonder why people want to spend hundreds more for a little screen. Also as a heavy duty diesel tech, we most certainly DO NOT run impacts on our torque to yield bolts.
I would say 3/8 digital, 1/2 split beam and Harbor freight $10 1/2 for lugnuts only. I don't like using click type 3/8 for engine because, if I slip the thread or bolt before the set torque, torque wrench won't click and I tend to keep going with anxiety. Happened a lot with civic aluminum head.
I work at a GM dealership and we do a good amount of lifter jobs. I'm gonna get the ICON flex head 1/2 digital torque wrench, i've heard good things about it on facebook groups from other gm techs. And it's 1/2 the price of a snap on
Honestly he's right with internal work. And I'll tell you guys a harbor freight Quinn digital wrench good a long way in figuring out if you guys stuff right for a shade tree mechanic if not diy. I implore you all of you care about your project but a harbor freight digital wrench at the minimum in both 3/8 and 1/2. To have a workflow and assurance you got the mark and not exceed it is sooooo moral boosting.
Snappy Techangle in 3/8 and 1/2 for me. I went from five or six torque wrenches (with some overlap) two. I did have a nice short 3/8 in/lb Snappy that I kinda miss, it fit in some places much better than the TA.
As far as the 1/4 drive torque wrench goes, another use case would be in hybrid/EV applications. I work on EVs for a living these days, it is absolutely critical HV fasteners are torqued properly.
Gedore makes great torque wrenches and they’re not crazy expensive. Stahlwille is coming out with some pretty interesting new models. You might want at least 3. Are all shops using torque wrenches on every job? 3% is good accuracy.
I had 3 micrometer torque wrenches. 1/2 ft. lb., 3/8 ft. lb. and a 3/8 in. lb. I had a 3/8 dial torque wrench for setting bearing pre load. Avoid the cheap torque wrenches that have the knurled locking knob on the end of the handle. They are junk!
GM has torque to yield on Cruze caliper bolts….sure plenty of those aren’t done correctly yet alone new bolts used. Plenty of so called mechanics that do slam together jobs and torque nothing cause they know it all
As a Trans tech I use a 1/4 click type in inch lb for valve body's I need to get one so I do t have to use my bosses all the time don't want to spend snap on money any good alternatives that are just as good and nice feeling
Really great video, i own a split beam 1/2 and s.o 3/8 digital. Honestly i rarely use the s.o. was considering getting the 1/4 but i usually have a good feel for small bolts and even on bmw oil pans never miss or break a bolt. Is it still necessary?
This really kinks my hose. If you must use a torque wrench, a beam or band type is the best. This whole “omg tech rules” thing with torque wrenches, I don’t know where that comes from. The exception is where you don’t have line-of-sight, in which case split-beam is best. But that’s not so common. And by “best”, I mean more accurate (also taking into account your trained arm,) and _faster_ (you don’t have to take time to set your eye.)
![Gearwrench 120XP Electronic Torque Wrench with Angle Review [FLEX HEAD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h1d1gCpfSdg/mqdefault.jpg)
I have the Snap-on Tech Angle in 1/2", 3/8“, and 1/4". I love them. Expensive as hell, but worth it. They've long paid themselves off. Also have a 1/4" GearWrench click style, usually for plastic valve covers. 👍👍
Best part about tool addiction is that it pays for itself in work and savings on doing your own work
I use a Tekton 1/4", MAC 3/8" and a ICON digital 1/2" with angle. All 3 are very accurate and reasonably priced.
Also, if you're doing it daily, the higher end makes sense. For my use, click type suffices. Right tool for the job
Flat Rate Freddy don't need no torque wrench!
I work at a RV service center. A couple of us have our own torque wrenches but not really necessary. For the shop, we have a Snap On click type 1/2" dr torque wrench for trailer lug nuts and hitch and towing component assembly. We also have a K-D tools 3/4" dr. torque wrench for class A lug nuts and suspension upgrades
I first bought SO split-beam cuz was doing lots of tires as lube tech. The greatest advantage is change setting on the fly. Imagine doing a Honda wheel @ 80 ftlb and next one is Ford or GM suv @ 150 & 140 and having to turn that dial with your wrist is very taxing. Though I do notice gauge on split-beam do walk-off a little after torquing some fastener.
Then I bought that long SO 1/2 digital torque wrench FRM showing for Ford caliper anchor bolts that require 224 ftlb, which shop's regular 1/2 SO digital's length is showing its limitation. On side note, FRM is right about VW axle bolt tightness. It's like over 300ftlb when following VW's procedure.
Thirdly, I got the same SO 1/4 digital in the vid for oil pan and intake plenum bolts. I can't trust myself with a 3/8 on these M6 & M5 bolts.
My Gearwrench 3/8" digital torque wrench with angle is awesome..great for engine work..
I've got a click type 1/2" DeWalt kit for wheels..
I've got Pittsburgh 1/4" and 3/4" for when I need them and they work great 👍
Split beam torque wrenches are actually pretty precise
We have a bloke who comes to our workshop and calibrates and repairs torque wrenches. Thats all he does. He swears that the dual beam wrenches are the most accurate and reliable.
The Quinn digital torque wrenches are awesome. I use them everyday as a diesel mechanic.
I believe torquing is mostly important for internals but not always necessary for externals. You have to use your judgement. When you do it professionally everyday you don’t have time to torque every single nut or bolt
@strongerthanbigfoot Have you used the Quinn digital torque wrench on cylinder head bolts? How has it been holding up thus far being used daily in a professional setting? I’m a tech aswell and looking into getting a 1/2” digital torque wrench for Subaru cylinder head bolts.
Pinion drag is my main use for 1/4 in torque wrench 7-14 inch lbs, you said "back in the day" i only had 3/8 and 1/2 inch torque wrench's................ so how'd you do pinion drag? Don't answer i already know.......i seen it, lol my shop foreman used to grumble when i broke my torque wrench out.........."your killing me small's" that was his favorite line.
What about beam style!
My dad gave me my first Torque Wrench
3/8 dr Craftsman beam . First one I bought for myself quarter inch Drive click type. I was doing valve cover gaskets. Transmission pan gaskets. Tymon case covers. Far more than anything that required half-inch drive or even 3/8 drive. For many years shops provided that half inch torque wrench. I recently purchased one of the snap on digital’s, half inch drive the longer one only because I thought it was a good deal and I needed it for an upcoming job knowing I was going to do several cylinder heads with a degree to torque specs. I’m one of those and if I can get a torque wrench on it are usually torque it.
My Gearwrench 3/8" digital torque wrench with angle is awesome..great for engine work..
I've got a click type 1/2" DeWalt kit for wheels..
I have a whole drawer of Snap On torque wrenches: QDR series in 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2”, TechAngle in the same sizes and then a Precision Instruments 3/4” clicker type. I tell people I have spent WAY too much money on torque wrenches to leave them in my tool box. For me, internal engine, steering, suspension and brakes get torqued to spec.
I think the biggest thing for me with torque wrenches, is that 99% of people don't need and will never use the features that a digital offers. It makes me wonder why people want to spend hundreds more for a little screen. Also as a heavy duty diesel tech, we most certainly DO NOT run impacts on our torque to yield bolts.
Icon makes a very nice flex angle in 1/2 size works fine.
Good info. Torque wrenches can be less accurate when used at the edges of its range.
When you go below 20% of max range on a torque wrench, no matter what type, you’re playing with fire.
@@declanfarber I agree, it's best to overlap ranges when you have multiple wrenches.
I would say 3/8 digital, 1/2 split beam and Harbor freight $10 1/2 for lugnuts only.
I don't like using click type 3/8 for engine because, if I slip the thread or bolt before the set torque, torque wrench won't click and I tend to keep going with anxiety.
Happened a lot with civic aluminum head.
I work at a GM dealership and we do a good amount of lifter jobs. I'm gonna get the ICON flex head 1/2 digital torque wrench, i've heard good things about it on facebook groups from other gm techs. And it's 1/2 the price of a snap on
Honestly he's right with internal work. And I'll tell you guys a harbor freight Quinn digital wrench good a long way in figuring out if you guys stuff right for a shade tree mechanic if not diy. I implore you all of you care about your project but a harbor freight digital wrench at the minimum in both 3/8 and 1/2. To have a workflow and assurance you got the mark and not exceed it is sooooo moral boosting.
I bought a cheap 1/4 Pittsburgh for torquing the 6 propeller bolts on my 100cc RC airplane.
Also, let me help with the fancy Japanese precision measuring instruments. It's pronounced Mih-two-toy-oh.
Snappy Techangle in 3/8 and 1/2 for me. I went from five or six torque wrenches (with some overlap) two. I did have a nice short 3/8 in/lb Snappy that I kinda miss, it fit in some places much better than the TA.
I've got an old SK 1/4 that has paid for itself a hundred times over.
Great video
Useful content
As far as the 1/4 drive torque wrench goes, another use case would be in hybrid/EV applications. I work on EVs for a living these days, it is absolutely critical HV fasteners are torqued properly.
What size is suggested just for spark plugs on Toyotas? Great video as I need to purchase one. Looking at the 1/4” wrench
Gedore makes great torque wrenches and they’re not crazy expensive. Stahlwille is coming out with some pretty interesting new models. You might want at least 3. Are all shops using torque wrenches on every job? 3% is good accuracy.
I had 3 micrometer torque wrenches. 1/2 ft. lb., 3/8 ft. lb. and a 3/8 in. lb. I had a 3/8 dial torque wrench for setting bearing pre load. Avoid the cheap torque wrenches that have the knurled locking knob on the end of the handle. They are junk!
Buy all three in techangle
GM has torque to yield on Cruze caliper bolts….sure plenty of those aren’t done correctly yet alone new bolts used. Plenty of so called mechanics that do slam together jobs and torque nothing cause they know it all
Uggah duggah always the right torque
As a Trans tech I use a 1/4 click type in inch lb for valve body's I need to get one so I do t have to use my bosses all the time don't want to spend snap on money any good alternatives that are just as good and nice feeling
Very much obliged Sir what do you suggest for tire bolts?
Where did you get your peg board (for lack of a better term)
Use 1/4 and 3/8, 1/4 has paid for itself easily
Really great video, i own a split beam 1/2 and s.o 3/8 digital. Honestly i rarely use the s.o. was considering getting the 1/4 but i usually have a good feel for small bolts and even on bmw oil pans never miss or break a bolt. Is it still necessary?
What is your recommendation on calibration. Would the tool truck be able to check for accuracy?
Where to get the Snap On digitals calibrated besides Snap On?
I'm wondering if it's only California having so much trouble with IMC's delivery, WorldPac is so much more reliable.
Let me torque my spark plugs with a $800 snap on torque wrench in peace 😊
This really kinks my hose. If you must use a torque wrench, a beam or band type is the best. This whole “omg tech rules” thing with torque wrenches, I don’t know where that comes from. The exception is where you don’t have line-of-sight, in which case split-beam is best. But that’s not so common.
And by “best”, I mean more accurate (also taking into account your trained arm,) and _faster_ (you don’t have to take time to set your eye.)