Fantastic video, very clear explanation. I’m exactly at the point of deciding what to do with my rear shock, this is a great help. Thank you very much 👍
R9T Scrambler - I had my OEM disaster rebuilt by a local Suspension expert at a fraction of the cost of any aftermarket big name replacement; with a replacement spring and damping improvement, this has transformed the bike - just amazing!
My Urban GS rear shock was horrible, I set the pre-load for correct sag the day I bought it, ran up and down the range of rebound damping and it was still horrible to the point of dangerous, fitted a Wilbers pronto and an Andreani cartridge conversion to the forks, then all good. Have been modding and replacing suspension BMW boxers for just over 40 years, the BMW's from the 70's left the factory with better suspension.
I did all this on mine soon after getting the bike... 21 Scram.... then gave up and got a Nitron R1.... then some fork work.... springs, emulators and lighter oil.... really nice now.
I have a 2017 Pure and cannot afford a new rear shock, but the factory settings were way too soft. So, I experimented with the OEM. I am 90 kg and ride twisty back roads, often a bit on the bumpy side. After about 2 weeks of fiddling, I found the shock was very sensitive to tiny adjustments. Even a 2 mm change to preload makes a difference. I know many will scoff at this, and I've never experienced this on any other bike. I'm just trying to help you guys. So, for what it's worth I settled on Preload on shock = 17 mm of thread exposed at the top. Sag is 15 mm, and with rider = 43 mm, which is about 35% of travel. I found this a very good compromise between handling and comfort. I know the UGS and Scram have a longer shock and the Classic and Racer may have different spring rates, so I can only vouch for the Pure. I hope that helps.
Hey there Dave, thanks so much for the post!! This is really usefully real world info, especially for those of us riders around the 90kg mark. Thanks for sharing your experience and the exact adjustments that have worked for you👍👊✊
I took my 21 plate classic to Brands Hatch a couple of weeks ago and had it set up by a specialist £70 and the difference is night and day. Completely transformed my ride. Another invaluable video from you sir. Good luck keep on doing what you do 😎
Hey Barry, there's too much in your post that makes me envious.... 21 plate classic and Brands Hatch (its winter in New Zealand and we have the wettest July in history😆). As for the £70, money well spent as you confirmed. Sus Specialists are worth their weight in gold. Good on YOU Barry!! Enjoy the beauty of that transformed bike of yours.......and ill update my Bucket List with "Brands Hatch"😁.
I'm really happy to hear you enjoyed it Weisong Ji😀. Thanks for the nice comment. And I can say there are definitely more coming. The next is already in progress...👊✊🏍👍
Hey Juni, I'm stoked you enjoyed it!😀. It makes it worth while putting in the many days it takes to make these little videos when I know our R9T community members are getting something out of them. So your comment is very much appreciated. Ride Safe my friend!👊✊🏍
Great video! I just got an Urban GS 23' I'm trying to get it dialed since I would like to drive more on the soft side, the roads I normally ride are bumpy. Any advice? Also is there a way to get the ride height a bit lower? I used to have a Scrambler 19 with the castled nuts but this UGS has a knob only. Regards from Mexico!
Hey there @robertomaldonado5109 , thanks for the question😀. Just between the two of us, I'm a little envious that you have an Urban GS 23'😁. I have a R1250 GS '19 and some days it's just a little bit heavy when off-road. So good on you! The Urban GS is definitely "Urban" but very capable at doing off-road (grades 1 and 2). Then again, I wouldn't take a beautiful new Urban off-road, they are just to beautiful 🤩. But to answer your question, if you want to adjust ride height to anything really noticeable, you'll want to buy a lowering kit. Its not expensive at around USD$400 (E.g HyperPro). If you have money burning in your pocket, you could go "Whole Hog" and replace your entire rear-shock to also gain great adjustability with the additional benefit of Compression Damping adjustability and a lowering kit and upgraded fork catridges. All this can be fitted at home if you have a few basic tools. But normally if you buy from a good local shop, they will install it as part of the price. I hope this helps. If not, just let me know and I'll point you in the right direction🙂. As for adjusting the bumpiness, have a look at my video on Suspension. Once you understand what each external "dial" adjustment does, you can easily dial in your Suspension for HOW and WHERE you ride. Ride Safe 👊✊️👍😀
Hi Reneluis04, 75kg for the spring is spot on. After saying that, the stock adjustment is limited with only Preload and basic rebound. But I'd recommend sticking with the stock shock for 12 months just to understand how it works for you on the roads you ride on most frequently, before spending money on an upgrade. I hope my thoughts help you with your decision. Ride Safe and if you do buy the R9T I'm sure you'll love it, especially if your more into short distance sporty riding (in style). 😀👊✊️👍
1. Preload: Turn the adjuster knob counter-clockwise as far as it will go 2. Rebound Damping: Turn the adjuster screw clockwise as far as it will go, then back it off two full turns. (Or only 1 turn for two up). That's just a basic baseline to find a starting point. You'll need to adjust it to dial it in to your specific weight and riding style and the types of roads you ride on by using "feel". See my other video on Shock Suspension for a deep dive🙂 czcams.com/video/ozQcRkecpHg/video.html Hope this helps. All the best.
@@outtheresomewhere took her out last night with your settings and it's much better. The bike doesn't throw me off the seat now when I go over bumps, it's not so twitchy on the bends and back feels at one with the front in general. Thanks again!
The owners manual on my Racer has a pre-load setting of 11mm so not sure about your stated setting for this model? When I bought mine (ex-demonstrator) I wrongly assumed the setting from the dealer would be correct but every time I hit a bump it tried to fire me off the seat. It must have been set for a much heavier rider but even so it had zero static sag. So I set the rear shock back to standard (good advice) on pre-load and damping and have since made it a bit softer partly because I am probably lighter than average. I suppose varying tyre pressures is something else that could be tried but I have always stuck to the recommended pressures. I’m not sure if I’m a good enough rider to notice a better shock but if wear and tear meant I needed to change I’d probably replace it with an upgrade 🇬🇧
Hi Stewy, thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it 👍. That is interesting and possible. The key is to have a "known" setting as a starting point to work from. The settings I've provided will need adjustment for weight, riding style and even the make of tire as will those in the users manual. So you could use either as a Baseline as you'll be modifying them further as you test each setup due to each of us being all very unique 😁. But it sounds like you have it all nicely tweaked for YOU now😃. Maybe just keep an eye on how your tire is wearing and adjust tire pressure accordingly. Thanks again Stewy, ride safe👊✊👍🏍.
Hello I have a 2021 pure. I weight 77kg. How should I tune it? It looks a bit different compare to the video. What’s the ballpark for my weight. I ride mountain roads and city roads.
Hi @JL-po3dwl it takes a bit of trial and error to dial in not only to your weight, but also to your riding style and preferences. Also the stock shock is rather limited. But the good news is the spring, though not great, should be OK for your body weight of 77kg. As a starting point (baseline) for 77kg weight you could try the following (Assuming your shock is a 2021 OEM Sachs shock) : Note the following will need further adjustment, so it's best to write down the following settings and also any adjustments so that you have a record of what works and doesn't. Turn the Preload knob FULLY COUNTER-CLOCKWISE (anticlockwise), then 1/2 a turn CLOCKWISE. Next turn the Rebound screw FULLY CLOCKWISE, then 2.0 turns ANTI-CLOCKWISE. Take it for a ride over a road you are very familiar with and feel what good or bad changes have occurred, then make small adjustments to dial it in. Be careful when riding after making adjustments as naturally your bike will handle differently to your normal inputs. Note, ideally you would also tweak your forks, but it isn't a must at least to start with. Just get familiar with tweaking your shock first, and how specific tweaks change the bikes feel and handling. Feel free to watch my other video on Shock Terminology czcams.com/video/ozQcRkecpHg/video.html .. and good luck and have fun. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on😀✊️👊👍
Fantastic video, very clear explanation. I’m exactly at the point of deciding what to do with my rear shock, this is a great help. Thank you very much 👍
Thanks Davide, great to hear it was helpful😀. All the best with your decision.
R9T Scrambler - I had my OEM disaster rebuilt by a local Suspension expert at a fraction of the cost of any aftermarket big name replacement; with a replacement spring and damping improvement, this has transformed the bike - just amazing!
@shane60, great stuff !!👍 and good point regarding the spring👊✊️
My Urban GS rear shock was horrible, I set the pre-load for correct sag the day I bought it, ran up and down the range of rebound damping and it was still horrible to the point of dangerous, fitted a Wilbers pronto and an Andreani cartridge conversion to the forks, then all good. Have been modding and replacing suspension BMW boxers for just over 40 years, the BMW's from the 70's left the factory with better suspension.
I did all this on mine soon after getting the bike... 21 Scram.... then gave up and got a Nitron R1.... then some fork work.... springs, emulators and lighter oil.... really nice now.
A 21 Scram...VERY NICE! Good job on the upgrade too Noel!!👍
I have a 2017 Pure and cannot afford a new rear shock, but the factory settings were way too soft. So, I experimented with the OEM. I am 90 kg and ride twisty back roads, often a bit on the bumpy side. After about 2 weeks of fiddling, I found the shock was very sensitive to tiny adjustments. Even a 2 mm change to preload makes a difference. I know many will scoff at this, and I've never experienced this on any other bike. I'm just trying to help you guys. So, for what it's worth I settled on Preload on shock = 17 mm of thread exposed at the top. Sag is 15 mm, and with rider = 43 mm, which is about 35% of travel. I found this a very good compromise between handling and comfort.
I know the UGS and Scram have a longer shock and the Classic and Racer may have different spring rates, so I can only vouch for the Pure. I hope that helps.
Hey there Dave, thanks so much for the post!! This is really usefully real world info, especially for those of us riders around the 90kg mark. Thanks for sharing your experience and the exact adjustments that have worked for you👍👊✊
I took my 21 plate classic to Brands Hatch a couple of weeks ago and had it set up by a specialist £70 and the difference is night and day. Completely transformed my ride. Another invaluable video from you sir. Good luck keep on doing what you do 😎
Hey Barry, there's too much in your post that makes me envious.... 21 plate classic and Brands Hatch (its winter in New Zealand and we have the wettest July in history😆). As for the £70, money well spent as you confirmed. Sus Specialists are worth their weight in gold. Good on YOU Barry!! Enjoy the beauty of that transformed bike of yours.......and ill update my Bucket List with "Brands Hatch"😁.
I have a track day booked for Brands in 4 weeks, the last one I done was about 25 years ago. The old girl is gonna love it 🏁👍
Amazing details in the video! Love it!! Love to see more !!
I'm really happy to hear you enjoyed it Weisong Ji😀. Thanks for the nice comment. And I can say there are definitely more coming. The next is already in progress...👊✊🏍👍
love the video. Thanks Matt. i will DM you and ask specific questions. thanks again.
Hey Juni, I'm stoked you enjoyed it!😀. It makes it worth while putting in the many days it takes to make these little videos when I know our R9T community members are getting something out of them. So your comment is very much appreciated. Ride Safe my friend!👊✊🏍
Great video! I just got an Urban GS 23' I'm trying to get it dialed since I would like to drive more on the soft side, the roads I normally ride are bumpy. Any advice? Also is there a way to get the ride height a bit lower? I used to have a Scrambler 19 with the castled nuts but this UGS has a knob only. Regards from Mexico!
Hey there @robertomaldonado5109 , thanks for the question😀. Just between the two of us, I'm a little envious that you have an Urban GS 23'😁. I have a R1250 GS '19 and some days it's just a little bit heavy when off-road. So good on you! The Urban GS is definitely "Urban" but very capable at doing off-road (grades 1 and 2). Then again, I wouldn't take a beautiful new Urban off-road, they are just to beautiful 🤩. But to answer your question, if you want to adjust ride height to anything really noticeable, you'll want to buy a lowering kit. Its not expensive at around USD$400 (E.g HyperPro). If you have money burning in your pocket, you could go "Whole Hog" and replace your entire rear-shock to also gain great adjustability with the additional benefit of Compression Damping adjustability and a lowering kit and upgraded fork catridges. All this can be fitted at home if you have a few basic tools. But normally if you buy from a good local shop, they will install it as part of the price.
I hope this helps. If not, just let me know and I'll point you in the right direction🙂. As for adjusting the bumpiness, have a look at my video on Suspension. Once you understand what each external "dial" adjustment does, you can easily dial in your Suspension for HOW and WHERE you ride.
Ride Safe 👊✊️👍😀
From your experience do you think the spring rate is suitable for 75kg? Might be purchasing the standard r9t soon.
Hi Reneluis04, 75kg for the spring is spot on. After saying that, the stock adjustment is limited with only Preload and basic rebound. But I'd recommend sticking with the stock shock for 12 months just to understand how it works for you on the roads you ride on most frequently, before spending money on an upgrade. I hope my thoughts help you with your decision. Ride Safe and if you do buy the R9T I'm sure you'll love it, especially if your more into short distance sporty riding (in style). 😀👊✊️👍
Thanks for the rebound screw adjustment setting, do you know what the stock Preload knob setting is for the 21> Scrambler?
1. Preload: Turn the adjuster knob counter-clockwise as far as it will go
2. Rebound Damping: Turn the adjuster screw clockwise as far as it will go, then back it off two full turns. (Or only 1 turn for two up).
That's just a basic baseline to find a starting point. You'll need to adjust it to dial it in to your specific weight and riding style and the types of roads you ride on by using "feel". See my other video on Shock Suspension for a deep dive🙂
czcams.com/video/ozQcRkecpHg/video.html
Hope this helps. All the best.
Awesome thanks mate!
@@outtheresomewhere took her out last night with your settings and it's much better. The bike doesn't throw me off the seat now when I go over bumps, it's not so twitchy on the bends and back feels at one with the front in general. Thanks again!
The owners manual on my Racer has a pre-load setting of 11mm so not sure about your stated setting for this model? When I bought mine (ex-demonstrator) I wrongly assumed the setting from the dealer would be correct but every time I hit a bump it tried to fire me off the seat. It must have been set for a much heavier rider but even so it had zero static sag. So I set the rear shock back to standard (good advice) on pre-load and damping and have since made it a bit softer partly because I am probably lighter than average. I suppose varying tyre pressures is something else that could be tried but I have always stuck to the recommended pressures. I’m not sure if I’m a good enough rider to notice a better shock but if wear and tear meant I needed to change I’d probably replace it with an upgrade 🇬🇧
Hi Stewy, thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it 👍. That is interesting and possible. The key is to have a "known" setting as a starting point to work from. The settings I've provided will need adjustment for weight, riding style and even the make of tire as will those in the users manual. So you could use either as a Baseline as you'll be modifying them further as you test each setup due to each of us being all very unique 😁. But it sounds like you have it all nicely tweaked for YOU now😃. Maybe just keep an eye on how your tire is wearing and adjust tire pressure accordingly. Thanks again Stewy, ride safe👊✊👍🏍.
well described mate
Thanks Uncle Long Beard. I really appreciate the feedback.
Hello I have a 2021 pure. I weight 77kg.
How should I tune it?
It looks a bit different compare to the video.
What’s the ballpark for my weight.
I ride mountain roads and city roads.
Hi @JL-po3dwl it takes a bit of trial and error to dial in not only to your weight, but also to your riding style and preferences. Also the stock shock is rather limited. But the good news is the spring, though not great, should be OK for your body weight of 77kg. As a starting point (baseline) for 77kg weight you could try the following (Assuming your shock is a 2021 OEM Sachs shock) :
Note the following will need further adjustment, so it's best to write down the following settings and also any adjustments so that you have a record of what works and doesn't.
Turn the Preload knob FULLY COUNTER-CLOCKWISE (anticlockwise), then 1/2 a turn CLOCKWISE.
Next turn the Rebound screw FULLY CLOCKWISE, then 2.0 turns ANTI-CLOCKWISE.
Take it for a ride over a road you are very familiar with and feel what good or bad changes have occurred, then make small adjustments to dial it in. Be careful when riding after making adjustments as naturally your bike will handle differently to your normal inputs.
Note, ideally you would also tweak your forks, but it isn't a must at least to start with. Just get familiar with tweaking your shock first, and how specific tweaks change the bikes feel and handling.
Feel free to watch my other video on Shock Terminology
czcams.com/video/ozQcRkecpHg/video.html
.. and good luck and have fun. Hope this helps. Let me know how you get on😀✊️👊👍
Thank you!
If you weigh 220 pounds/100kg or more.... Replace it immediately
👍
why instead of saying sEttings, he keeps saying sittings?
😆 ...that Kiwi accent.... ....can't shake it.
Have you been riding that R9T inna quarry?
If I had one chip like that I'd be heartbroken :.(
Hey there @utterstan, that's thanks to New Zealand roads😆