I really hope you find this tutorial informative. All of the uniform color and gradient color examples are in real time. As always, there is a table of contents in the description and you can click on a time to quickly move around to different parts of the video. Thank you for watching and please let me know what you think of the tutorial. Brenda
I Live in Brescia, Italy, and I visited many woodburning internet sites, in english, italian, portuguese ecc. Dear Brenda, your site is the very very best: I never seen anything similar! You are an excellent teacher. I have no words to express my appreciation for you. Thank You from the bottom of my hart. Ferrero Guido
Hello Ferrero, Thank you so much for watching for video, and taking the time to leave such a nice comment. I really appreciate the feedback and comment. Have a wonderful week!
Thank you Brenda for your tutorial on pyrography. As a beginner pyrographer, the bottom line seem to be patience and practice using all nibs and to keep hand motions consistent. Your a good teacher who explains herself very clearly and are not distracted. Thanks again!
Hi Patricia, glad the video was helpful. Another thing I would add (can't remember if the video mentions it) is to use a light hand pressure. I have an entire video about hand pressure. Here's a link to it: czcams.com/video/q8OGqS5kyHg/video.html
Hi Julie, Thank you for the wonderful comment. I hope the information is helpful. Smooth gradient shading is one of the harder skills to master in pyrography. Heck, sometimes I still have troubles with it. Brenda
Wow!!! This is not only the best wood burning video, it's the greatest instructing video on CZcams, period!!! Great video👍, and thank you so much for teaching us master... Thank You.
Love your work ^^ it is just amazing how wonderfully you explain everything about pyrography techniques!! I learned so much!!! Thank you ^^ wish you a beautiful weekend lovely Brenda ^^
Hello Ozzie, thank you so much for such a wonderful compliment! Really appreciate it and the fact that you take the time to watch and comment! I hope that you are still creating pyrography artwork! Brenda
Brenda, Of all the "teachers" of Pyrography on utube I enjoy your videos the best of all. You speak very clearly and slowly so even an old hard of hearing retired Plumber can happily and easily follow along.. Keep up the excellent work. It is important to a beginner like me. Thank you Brenda. Did I mention that you are very good at what you do? I'm having fun practicing my burning...
Hi! Thank you so much for the wonderful feedback. Also thank you for the lovely compliment. I'm glad to know you're having fun. I'm having a blast and love the artform, so it's great to find others who feel the same! Brenda
Hi Donna, Welcome to the world of pyrography! I hope that you will love the medium. It has become my favorite and I work almost exclusively in pyrography now. Happy burning!
Hi Neeraj, thank you very much. You always have such kind comments. I can't wait until you upload your next piece of artwork as you are a phenomenal artist!!! Brenda
Hi Brenda. This is a priceless video. This is crucial to get good results and the way you explain all of it is perfect. Very clear instructions and the way you talk is very gracious. Have you considered making instructional DVDs? I believe you would have a huge success with them. Richy
Hi Richy, thank you very much. That is such an amazing compliment. My husband says I should, but I have serious doubts about doing that. People have different expectations when they pay money for something vs getting it for free. Maybe one day I will get brave and make a dvd. Brenda
I think people will buy a DVD. It's really handy to have a disc to pop in and watch on TV rather than searching through one's YT favorites for the right video.
Hello Dino King, I'm rather surprised you would watch it as it isn't art centric, but I thank you for doing so and the lovely comment! QoP (queen of pyrography) Not sure I agree with the nickname, but I know you didn't agree with the one I gave you. :)
Thanks again for these excellent tips. I always practice on a spare piece of wood first before starting on my actual piece. I’m now selling quite a few things now. People love plaques of their pets and I’ve found that memory or university graduation boxes are really popular too. Instead of acrylic painting I’m finding myself burning wood all day 😉
HI! That's awesome. I'm glad you're finding your niche in pyrography and I do hope that you are really enjoying the artform. For me there isn't a remote question of which to pick - pyrography or painting..... Hmmmm, I absolutely hate paintbrushes, so pyrography it is. :)
Hello madam, this information is very beautiful. I am one of the followers of your publications in the art of drawing. We have benefited from it. Well, keep spreading art. A wonderful burkraf greetings in order to be healthy
Dear Brenda, excellent videos on your channel. I am a beginner in pyrography and will like to have a suggestion of the best wood (o kind of woods) that are the best to use. Thank you in advance.
Hello. I wouldn't say there is a wood that is best to use. Sometimes it is a matter of what is available or personal preference. I like basswood which is also called European Linden or Linden because it tends to be pale in color and don't have a lot of grain lines. I also like poplar and maple, but where I live they are a lot more expensive than the basswood is. I also do a lot of work on birch plywood. Plywood tends to be inexpensive and available in larger sizes. Hope that helps.
Hi Linda, I had my before Colwood had the option to bend them, so I bent my own. Keep in mind that doing so voids the warranty. I recently bought a bent tip just to see how they do it. I bent mine right at the thin metal tip where it is the most fragile (not too smart on my part) and Colwood bends them in the middle of the two thick connecting wires. I do think the tip needs to be bent otherwise it's difficult to hold it in a way to comfortably use the flat of the shader. Or at least it was for me. As for polished, that is a personal choice. Polished tips are a LOT easier to clean and they are fantastic for burning on leather. In fact, I highly recommend them for leather. For wood, I didn't notice a huge improvement on burn results. I have a couple of polished tips, but I only use them for leather because they glide over the surface much easier than unpolished ones do. My main reason for not using the polished tips on wood is that I'm lazy and I don't want to learn new heat settings. I have enough experience with my unpolished J shader to know that if I'm burning on basswood, I need the heat set to 2.8. If I'm burning on maple I need 3.3. I might need to adjust a little from there, but I'm in the general ballpark. The polished tip doesn't have the same heat settings and I haven't taken the time to learn them. I hope this helps a little. Brenda
@@PyrographyMadeEasy a very great point was made by this video ill definitely keep watching and catch up and see what all these videos could bring to the table for me
I will also tell you to experiment. I've discovered new textures and techniques by experimenting around. Usually on backgrounds where it won't matter much if it doesn't turn out well. That's also where I like to test out pen tips.
I love doingf this but I am having with when I burn it is like jiggterbugging. I just don't know how to makeit consistance. Can you help me solve this problem?
Mary, I have 2 guesses as to the problem. 1 - inconsistent hand pressure. 2 - inconsistent hand speed You might try working on small things like the petals on a flower. As you get more experienced and comfortable, then increase the size of what you're burning on. Keep in mind that you've been burning for a very short amount of time, so be patient. You will get this.
Hi Gary, Polishing cloth is what Colwood shipped me for cleaning. The backside of the cloth is more rough, so I use that to remove heavy carbon build up....usually happens when I'm burning on leather. The cloth says that it is 800 grit and it is also referred as Crocus Cloth. I don't see why you can use the 1000g. Just keep an eye on the pen tip for wear and tear. I was using a rotary tool with a polishing burr equipped and about 8 mths later I noticed my shader was getting thinner. I quit using the polishing burr and went back to the cloth. Thanks for the question and hope my answer helps. Brenda
@@PyrographyMadeEasy After I posted that, I realized something I was missing: when we solder, the irons get all sorts of cruddy, and we just wipe the hot iron on a wet clothes or sponge and they totally shine up. Dunno why I forgot that; you'd lose no metal that way. What is the best wood to practice on? I just started and bought a 25w iron.
I forgot that about soldering irons too. I'll have to try it. As the for the best practice on wood, it's really more of a question of what's available, but I'd look for birch plywood. Have fun burning!
I'd put a piece of plywood or several layers (4-5) of newspaper down on the table. Also, don't deliberately let hot pen tips touch the plywood or paper. By that I mean that if you're switching out tips, don't place the hot tip on the plywood or paper surface. Instead place the hot tip into a appropriate heat safe container.
Hi Randi, I'm use the J shader by Colwood in this video. I'm flattered that you find my work such that you'd want private lessons, but that is not something I'm set up to. Not to mention that I have zero experience teaching in a live format. Again, I'm flattered and thank you.
There are too many variables for that to be relevant. I wrote a post (145) about this. It can be accessed at: czcams.com/users/postUgzkHVl6Z_oCR-jwgp94AaABCQ Don't pay attention to the heat level. Instead concentrate on the output results. For most of my burning I adjust my burner to get a medium to dark tan burn result. I adjust the heat setting every single time I get ready to burn until I reach the desired result. Then I very seldom adjust it from there.
Yes. It's not fast. Creating realism in pyrography is slow work, and it's not for everyone. That's try of any hobby. I've tried painting and absolutely hated it. Wood working...no thank you. Requires too much precision and lots of sanding. Playing a musical instrument - not even interested. Try enough things and you will eventually find the hobby you love.
@@PyrographyMadeEasy LMAO! so true. I have 47 years in advertising and graphic design, realism in portraiture but painting oils and colored pencil (tons of layers) and am playing with watercolor now but slowing down in ANYTHING is rough and we joke with others about wanting "instant gratification". "LEARNING" anything seems to be the hobby now and my guitar is the target in this wood burn but i see beautiful work coming from your gallery and a FEW others and i'm still looking for value in this over pencil for the same effect, and the finished product usage but definitely getting my head out of "your mothers wood burning art".! thanks so much for all you put out in helping and training others.
I will be brutally honest with you. If you haven't burned before, I don't recommend burning on your guitar. Pyrography is not one of the more forgiving artforms. The darker the burn marks are the harder they become to remove. Plus, if you're burning at too high of a temperature, you can burn pretty deeply into the wood. I would do a number of test burns before I'd even consider burning on a musical instrument. Then I would test out everything on some cheap guitar. You need to sand to bare wood before you burn on it. Otherwise you risk vaporizing the finish and/or stains they use to color it. Some of the chemicals and/or pigments involved are toxic when heated.
@@PyrographyMadeEasy yes, many sand lightly (mine is all good not veneer) and a bunch like Sacred Arts burn guitars all the time and say it doesn't affect the sound but i will be doing a lot of tests and then go lightly like your videos show. lots of prayer also, lol. thanks for your help! i love the way you work verses more aggressive burners.
I was online and saw you comment, so the subtitles have been added. I also added them to another beginner video: czcams.com/video/PI_U7dXHwRo/video.html I will try to get the rest of the beginner videos added within a week or so.
Hi Oscar, you should burn in a well ventilated room. The higher the heat the more likely smoke will get generated. I don't burn at high heats very often. THanks for the question.
I really hope you find this tutorial informative. All of the uniform color and gradient color examples are in real time. As always, there is a table of contents in the description and you can click on a time to quickly move around to different parts of the video. Thank you for watching and please let me know what you think of the tutorial. Brenda
Thanks this really gives me more confidence
I Live in Brescia, Italy, and I visited many woodburning internet sites, in english, italian, portuguese ecc. Dear Brenda, your site is the very very best: I never seen anything similar! You are an excellent teacher. I have no words to express my appreciation for you. Thank You from the bottom of my hart. Ferrero Guido
Hello Ferrero,
Thank you so much for watching for video, and taking the time to leave such a nice comment. I really appreciate the feedback and comment.
Have a wonderful week!
wow, that part about misting it with water then sanding it again, that is making all the difference on my current project!
I'm so glad that it worked well for you. I find that it really makes a different with the wood surface.
Wow thanks for this. So detailed and informative. Great lesson. You make it look so easy, it's ridiculous.
Glad it was helpful. It just takes time and practice. I sure as heck didn't wake up one day and discover I could do pyrography!
Thank you Brenda for your tutorial on pyrography. As a beginner pyrographer, the bottom line seem to be patience and practice using all nibs and to keep hand motions consistent. Your a good teacher who explains herself very clearly and are not distracted. Thanks again!
Hi Patricia,
glad the video was helpful. Another thing I would add (can't remember if the video mentions it) is to use a light hand pressure. I have an entire video about hand pressure. Here's a link to it: czcams.com/video/q8OGqS5kyHg/video.html
Can't thank you enough for taking the time to share your work, time, and advice Brenda. Truly appreciate it 🙏
Hi David,
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. Really appreciate that. Have fun burning and a fantastic rest of the week!
Thanks for the tutorial. It is the best one I have seen and you explain it all so clearly.
Hi Julie,
Thank you for the wonderful comment. I hope the information is helpful. Smooth gradient shading is one of the harder skills to master in pyrography. Heck, sometimes I still have troubles with it. Brenda
Wow!!! This is not only the best wood burning video, it's the greatest instructing video on CZcams, period!!! Great video👍, and thank you so much for teaching us master... Thank You.
Thank you for the very high praise. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Brenda
Love your work ^^ it is just amazing how wonderfully you explain everything about pyrography techniques!! I learned so much!!! Thank you ^^ wish you a beautiful weekend lovely Brenda ^^
Hello Happy Angel,
thank you so very much. You have a fantastic weekend too!
Many many thousand thanks for this tutorial!!!
Hi Eleni,
you are most welcome. Hope it helps.
Brenda
Great tutorial Brenda that was Awesome thanks for sharing this with us all, great job
Hello Ozzie,
thank you so much for such a wonderful compliment! Really appreciate it and the fact that you take the time to watch and comment! I hope that you are still creating pyrography artwork! Brenda
Nice! I especially like the uniform color tips.
Thank you so much. Really appreciate your comments.
Very well explained. Thanks for sharing!💛✍️
Hi B&T, thank you.
You are an awesome instructor. 👍
Hi Desiree,
thank you for the compliment!
Very, very, very thank you for you tips!!!!
You are most welcome. I hope the video was helpful.
Thanks Brenda,I will practice those strokes. Good explanations.
Hello Karen,
thank you for the great feedback. I really hope it helps. Brenda
Very informative tutorial. And well explained on détails, i love it
Thank you for the wonderful comment. Glad my video was helpful.
amazing work ...great tips ..big thumbs up
Thank you very much.
Brenda, Of all the "teachers" of Pyrography on utube I enjoy your videos the best of all. You speak very clearly and slowly so even an old hard of hearing retired Plumber can happily and easily follow along.. Keep up the excellent work. It is important to a beginner like me. Thank you Brenda. Did I mention that you are very good at what you do? I'm having fun practicing my burning...
Hi! Thank you so much for the wonderful feedback. Also thank you for the lovely compliment. I'm glad to know you're having fun. I'm having a blast and love the artform, so it's great to find others who feel the same! Brenda
Just starting on my wood burning adventure thanks for the great info. Time to practice
Hi Donna,
Welcome to the world of pyrography! I hope that you will love the medium. It has become my favorite and I work almost exclusively in pyrography now. Happy burning!
Awesome video 👍
Good stuff Brenda and yes, it was definitely easy to understand and follow. I understood it all, so it must've been easy 😁
Hi Pete,
awesome. Thank you so much for the feedback. Brenda
Great tips love your pyrography...
Thank you.
Fantastic thanks for sharing really liked it great tutorial 👍👍👏👏👏👏🙏🙏
Hi Neeraj,
thank you very much. You always have such kind comments. I can't wait until you upload your next piece of artwork as you are a phenomenal artist!!! Brenda
This is fantastic Brenda, the shading is brilliant in this, great tutorial my friend 😁😁👍👌👌👌congrats on the 900followers
thank you so much Jonny.
Congratulations are in order for you too as you've reached 1K subs!! Very happy for you!
@@PyrographyMadeEasy thank you so much Brenda got their finally 😁😁your not far off yourself 😁👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice tips and great information for artist & beginners.. thanks for sharing this video 👍
Thank you for the wonderful comment. Brenda
A very good lesson for me.
Glad to hear that!
Hi Brenda. This is a priceless video. This is crucial to get good results and the way you explain all of it is perfect. Very clear instructions and the way you talk is very gracious. Have you considered making instructional DVDs? I believe you would have a huge success with them. Richy
Hi Richy,
thank you very much. That is such an amazing compliment. My husband says I should, but I have serious doubts about doing that. People have different expectations when they pay money for something vs getting it for free. Maybe one day I will get brave and make a dvd. Brenda
I'm absolutely sure that no one would be disappointed but I understand what you mean.
I think people will buy a DVD. It's really handy to have a disc to pop in and watch on TV rather than searching through one's YT favorites for the right video.
Well thank you for the comment. It is something I've considered, but I'd say that fear holds me back. Maybe one day I'll get brave. :)
This is a fantastic in depth look at Pyrography for the beginner artist..i enjoyed watching this Brenda :)
Hello Dino King,
I'm rather surprised you would watch it as it isn't art centric, but I thank you for doing so and the lovely comment! QoP (queen of pyrography) Not sure I agree with the nickname, but I know you didn't agree with the one I gave you. :)
@@PyrographyMadeEasy There is a lot of work in this one, so i had to re watch it..mainly for the shading your shading is extremely good Brenda :)
This tutorial was very good
Thank you very much.
Very nice tutorial !!
Big like ..
Thank you.
Real good information Brenda 👍 I enjoyed this, very interesting,thanks my friend 👍 ❤️😁💜
Hi Chrissy,
thanks. Not exactly spectacular "art," but hoping it helps answer some of the most common questions I get about pyrography.
@@PyrographyMadeEasy it was very helpful m sure Brenda👍🌼😊
Hola Brenda...gracias por los tips....lo pondre en practica
Hello Fernando,
you are most welcome. I really do hope I was able to provide some useful information. Brenda
Nice shading tips👌👍 best of luck my friend🎉💕
Thanks
Thanks again for these excellent tips. I always practice on a spare piece of wood first before starting on my actual piece. I’m now selling quite a few things now. People love plaques of their pets and I’ve found that memory or university graduation boxes are really popular too. Instead of acrylic painting I’m finding myself burning wood all day 😉
HI! That's awesome. I'm glad you're finding your niche in pyrography and I do hope that you are really enjoying the artform.
For me there isn't a remote question of which to pick - pyrography or painting..... Hmmmm, I absolutely hate paintbrushes, so pyrography it is. :)
Excellent
Thanks
Hello madam, this information is very beautiful. I am one of the followers of your publications in the art of drawing. We have benefited from it. Well, keep spreading art. A wonderful burkraf greetings in order to be healthy
Hi Tamytoto,
I haven't heard from you in a while. Hope you are doing well. Thank you so much for the great comment!
Dear Brenda, excellent videos on your channel. I am a beginner in pyrography and will like to have a suggestion of the best wood (o kind of woods) that are the best to use. Thank you in advance.
Hello.
I wouldn't say there is a wood that is best to use. Sometimes it is a matter of what is available or personal preference.
I like basswood which is also called European Linden or Linden because it tends to be pale in color and don't have a lot of grain lines.
I also like poplar and maple, but where I live they are a lot more expensive than the basswood is.
I also do a lot of work on birch plywood. Plywood tends to be inexpensive and available in larger sizes.
Hope that helps.
Laik 36 Nice vidéo
I want to order the Tight Round J shader and the mini. Do you order them bent to a 45 degree angle? And I'm assuming I want polished?
Hi Linda,
I had my before Colwood had the option to bend them, so I bent my own. Keep in mind that doing so voids the warranty. I recently bought a bent tip just to see how they do it. I bent mine right at the thin metal tip where it is the most fragile (not too smart on my part) and Colwood bends them in the middle of the two thick connecting wires.
I do think the tip needs to be bent otherwise it's difficult to hold it in a way to comfortably use the flat of the shader. Or at least it was for me.
As for polished, that is a personal choice. Polished tips are a LOT easier to clean and they are fantastic for burning on leather. In fact, I highly recommend them for leather. For wood, I didn't notice a huge improvement on burn results. I have a couple of polished tips, but I only use them for leather because they glide over the surface much easier than unpolished ones do.
My main reason for not using the polished tips on wood is that I'm lazy and I don't want to learn new heat settings. I have enough experience with my unpolished J shader to know that if I'm burning on basswood, I need the heat set to 2.8. If I'm burning on maple I need 3.3. I might need to adjust a little from there, but I'm in the general ballpark. The polished tip doesn't have the same heat settings and I haven't taken the time to learn them.
I hope this helps a little. Brenda
I’m a pyro. Welding during the day, and wood burning at night!
Interesting combination.
.... Wow.... I can already see if i just lightened my pressure i could totally transform my burning
Light pressure will give you better results or I should say more consistent, smooth and even burns.
@@PyrographyMadeEasy a very great point was made by this video ill definitely keep watching and catch up and see what all these videos could bring to the table for me
I will also tell you to experiment. I've discovered new textures and techniques by experimenting around. Usually on backgrounds where it won't matter much if it doesn't turn out well. That's also where I like to test out pen tips.
I love doingf this but I am having with when I burn it is like jiggterbugging. I just don't know how to makeit consistance. Can you help me solve this problem?
Mary,
I have 2 guesses as to the problem.
1 - inconsistent hand pressure.
2 - inconsistent hand speed
You might try working on small things like the petals on a flower. As you get more experienced and comfortable, then increase the size of what you're burning on.
Keep in mind that you've been burning for a very short amount of time, so be patient. You will get this.
Polishing paper? What grit is that, and possibly the backside? Can I just use something like my 1000g wet or dry paper?
Hi Gary,
Polishing cloth is what Colwood shipped me for cleaning. The backside of the cloth is more rough, so I use that to remove heavy carbon build up....usually happens when I'm burning on leather. The cloth says that it is 800 grit and it is also referred as Crocus Cloth.
I don't see why you can use the 1000g. Just keep an eye on the pen tip for wear and tear. I was using a rotary tool with a polishing burr equipped and about 8 mths later I noticed my shader was getting thinner. I quit using the polishing burr and went back to the cloth.
Thanks for the question and hope my answer helps.
Brenda
@@PyrographyMadeEasy After I posted that, I realized something I was missing: when we solder, the irons get all sorts of cruddy, and we just wipe the hot iron on a wet clothes or sponge and they totally shine up.
Dunno why I forgot that; you'd lose no metal that way.
What is the best wood to practice on? I just started and bought a 25w iron.
I forgot that about soldering irons too. I'll have to try it.
As the for the best practice on wood, it's really more of a question of what's available, but I'd look for birch plywood. Have fun burning!
If I want to do wood burning in my living room, what can I put on the coffee table to protect it fro accidents?
I'd put a piece of plywood or several layers (4-5) of newspaper down on the table. Also, don't deliberately let hot pen tips touch the plywood or paper. By that I mean that if you're switching out tips, don't place the hot tip on the plywood or paper surface. Instead place the hot tip into a appropriate heat safe container.
Get a silicone baking mat. It is heatproof and has a grip on your piece as well, preventing it from sliding all over the place.
1st like👍
Where I can buy the wire burning ?
The unit I'm using is a Colwood Super pro II. Colwood's website is: woodburning.com
What tip is this? Would you consider private lessons?
Hi Randi,
I'm use the J shader by Colwood in this video.
I'm flattered that you find my work such that you'd want private lessons, but that is not something I'm set up to. Not to mention that I have zero experience teaching in a live format.
Again, I'm flattered and thank you.
what heat level do you use?
There are too many variables for that to be relevant. I wrote a post (145) about this. It can be accessed at: czcams.com/users/postUgzkHVl6Z_oCR-jwgp94AaABCQ
Don't pay attention to the heat level. Instead concentrate on the output results. For most of my burning I adjust my burner to get a medium to dark tan burn result. I adjust the heat setting every single time I get ready to burn until I reach the desired result. Then I very seldom adjust it from there.
What is covering the tip on this tutorial?
There isn't anything on the tip. It's bare metal.
is this for more EVEN shading? I'm so impatient and this looks like it takes forever?
Yes. It's not fast. Creating realism in pyrography is slow work, and it's not for everyone. That's try of any hobby. I've tried painting and absolutely hated it. Wood working...no thank you. Requires too much precision and lots of sanding. Playing a musical instrument - not even interested.
Try enough things and you will eventually find the hobby you love.
@@PyrographyMadeEasy LMAO! so true. I have 47 years in advertising and graphic design, realism in portraiture but painting oils and colored pencil (tons of layers) and am playing with watercolor now but slowing down in ANYTHING is rough and we joke with others about wanting "instant gratification". "LEARNING" anything seems to be the hobby now and my guitar is the target in this wood burn but i see beautiful work coming from your gallery and a FEW others and i'm still looking for value in this over pencil for the same effect, and the finished product usage but definitely getting my head out of "your mothers wood burning art".! thanks so much for all you put out in helping and training others.
I will be brutally honest with you. If you haven't burned before, I don't recommend burning on your guitar.
Pyrography is not one of the more forgiving artforms. The darker the burn marks are the harder they become to remove. Plus, if you're burning at too high of a temperature, you can burn pretty deeply into the wood.
I would do a number of test burns before I'd even consider burning on a musical instrument.
Then I would test out everything on some cheap guitar. You need to sand to bare wood before you burn on it. Otherwise you risk vaporizing the finish and/or stains they use to color it. Some of the chemicals and/or pigments involved are toxic when heated.
@@PyrographyMadeEasy yes, many sand lightly (mine is all good not veneer) and a bunch like Sacred Arts burn guitars all the time and say it doesn't affect the sound but i will be doing a lot of tests and then go lightly like your videos show. lots of prayer also, lol. thanks for your help! i love the way you work verses more aggressive burners.
Now this one I really want to understand, Sada, I really beg you to have Indonesian subtitles, sorry
I was online and saw you comment, so the subtitles have been added. I also added them to another beginner video: czcams.com/video/PI_U7dXHwRo/video.html
I will try to get the rest of the beginner videos added within a week or so.
I am very grateful and grateful for your kindness, I hope your kindness is useful for you and for the audience
But the smok of wood no good for your lungs ?!
Hi Oscar,
you should burn in a well ventilated room. The higher the heat the more likely smoke will get generated. I don't burn at high heats very often. THanks for the question.