Yokomo MD1.0 RC drift tuning and setup
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Once again attempting to explain my tuning and setup theory on my Yokomo MD1.0 rwd rc drift car. This really is an awesome drift chassis out of the box but also has some of its own quirks that make it a little more challenging to tune. I’ve made some of my own tuning changes based off the body I run on this chassis and also the surface I drive it on. Just remember that all the tuning and setup is very subjective with your own individual driving style, car weight, electronics setup and body so no one setup will be perfect for every individual user. So many variables come into play with tuning a rwd RC drift car and I think that makes it fun! When you make a simple change and notice a significant improvement in the driving characteristics, really makes this hobby enjoyable for me and I hope some of what I share with you can be beneficial in helping you setup your chassis for some awesome drifting experiences!
Thanks for checking out this video and please subscribe if you enjoy this type of content as I’ll be making more RC drift tuning videos in the future and let me know if you like it with a thumbs up and or a comment, I’ll catch you guys on the next one!
I've been drifting r/c cars for about 10 years now (from awd to cs to rwd currently) but I was never in to tuning. Just driving! But after watching your videos I'm tuning my cars more to make them drive better so I thank you for all the knowledge you've been sharing with the community! 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
I’m so happy to hear that these videos have been helping people! That was the goal, I’m happy to help when I can, thanks for watching. 🤙
Thanks for the video! Definitely learned a lot. Hoping to tune my MD2.0 and get it dialed. Just got it put together as my first build
Glad it helps people out. Md is pretty good out of the box.
Some of the European driver's have a saying "flex chassis are great if you can't tune dampers" lol
Haha! Amazing, I love that!
Lmao dude that’s great I cannot get my dampers right on my d5 outbreak. Wish I had just waited an got a Yokomo. One day I’ll have one lol
Just got one! Time get get sideways with the guys... 1st one I think here at our track. Most guys excited to try it out.
Nice man, have fun 🤙
Hey shred. Let me help ya explain a bit better for your viewer. What you where trying to say, is with the stiff chassis, It creates more kinetic force into the suspension, This allows more weight transfer. The more weight transfer your can generate, The more bite you will gain from that! Nice vid man
🤙
Great content! Love to hear more about your thoughts on the diff. Locked vs Open vs 10K oil, CLSD vs stock vs ball, etc. I'm trying to better understand how the various diff types and configs affect the behavior of the car.
Maybe I’ll do a video giving my theory but a lot comes down to preference and surface you run on. Low traction polished concrete I like a super open diff, the clsd is the best thing on the market and the amount of traction it gives you is unbelievable. Next would be a yokomo gear diff with light oil (3,000cst) after that a ball diff but I haven’t had good luck with them and find them to be inconsistent, after that a spool, I just don’t like how a locked diff drives in RC.
Back in the day I used to race Tamiya F201's, nationally. To combat bump steer I got a set of curved or bent tie rods. There was a slight bend to them to combat bump-steer. A stiffer chassis will give more mechanical grip, or suspension action. It will be more predictible in the weight transfer side to side and front to rear. A flexible chassis is good for road course or rally racing to deal with uneven pavement or gravel. I think for drift some may want that snap oversteer and a stiff chassis will accommodate that.
No, drifting has such little friction that people make a bunch of assumptions as to what they like but have no idea on how to tune. Flexible chassis create more “grip” is the idea but you can create the same “feeling” by tuning the shocks on a stiff chassis. Definitely don’t want snap oversteer. You want smooth predicable transitions and it’s all so subjective that I dont even try to explain my setups anymore.
Really interesting content! I look forward to more!
Nice, make sure to check out my other videos if you like what you see!
@Shred Craft RC I will definitely, thank you for your reply!
@@scaledynasty of course
Awesome content 💯🔥🚗💨
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Great info! I’m about to build some yokomo big bores with the new aluminum tapered 6 hole pistons with 300CST oil.
Everyone local runs 100 and I wanted to do something different so I hope the end result is similar to yours.
I’m assuming you didn’t drill the top caps?
Nope didn’t drill the top caps just drilled the pistons.
Superb upload , thanks for sharing your setup tips , Can you fit a ReveD ST low profile servo into the MD01 ? Or does the servo need to be as low profile as possible ?
I hear the ReveD servo needs to be shimmed up in the MD1.0. I don’t have personal experience with this because I ran a yokomo servo.
I like the bumper may i ask who made it? Thanks
Thanks, I made it.
Do you sell them?
@@lsrteg no I do not.
I have a md 1.0 as well and am new to this drift rc. Everyone told me to run 10 wt front and rear when i argied 9t was too bouncy but idk what im talking about. What wt did you put in the rear is my question
Oil and shock setup are really subjective for the surface you’re running on along with the weight of your electronics and chassis. Everyone will be different, I like a slower shock because I run on polished concrete with a lot of rear weight bias so I’m between 150-300wt in the rear with an 8 hole piston, 4 large holes and 4 small holes.
@@shredcraftrc did you mean 150-300 cst or weight?
@@zachcottrell1618 cst, my bad.