@bbtplumbinstruments they are different. As one other subscribed viewer said, the one up front is for the transmission. The tall one on the side, by the loader arm is the for the hydraulics that allow you to lift and dig. That’s why it’s on the side and easy to get to as it will probably be changed the most.
Thank you! I’ll have to work on that request. Until then it’s a small 1/4” or 3/8” plug on the side of the lift arm. IT’s directly below where the hydraulic oil fill is. This makes it annoying. You have to stop filling from above. Climb down. Then open that small plug to see if hydraulic oil is pushing out. That’s how you know you have the hydraulics filled.
No. That grease zero is impossible to reach from the front with the pump installed.the only way to get to it is between the small opening between the radiator and engine. It would not have helped us to grease it as the shaft splines were totally gone where they were inside of the coupling on the engine side. I greased the splined shaft and coupling prior to installing.
The splined coupling from “broken tractor”$69 + shipping and tax it was $89 engine side coupling (Amazon) link below so you can buy it $47 w/tax filter from Napa $25? new fluid $50 a bucket x2 = $100 Roughly $261 was spent for just this repair. That doesn’t include the time and fuel to get hydraulic oil, filter, grease, nitrile gloves, paper towels. We also had to torch the pin off the an outrigger while the fluid was drained down so we could have it rebuild with a new chrome rod. So our overall cost was higher. JEENDA Hydraulic Pump Coupler... www.amazon.com/dp/B095WPXWWY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The filter in front of the rad is the power shuttle filter. For the trans. The tall filter up by the loader arm is the primary hydraulic filter.
Thank you. I never really knew so I always changed it and the other one on the right side at the same time.
Are both filters thr same??
@bbtplumbinstruments they are different. As one other subscribed viewer said, the one up front is for the transmission.
The tall one on the side, by the loader arm is the for the hydraulics that allow you to lift and dig. That’s why it’s on the side and easy to get to as it will probably be changed the most.
You got my subscribre. Helpful and honest, even when you dont know it all. I do need a video of how to check hydraulic oil
Thank you! I’ll have to work on that request. Until then it’s a small 1/4” or 3/8” plug on the side of the lift arm. IT’s directly below where the hydraulic oil fill is. This makes it annoying. You have to stop filling from above. Climb down. Then open that small plug to see if hydraulic oil is pushing out. That’s how you know you have the hydraulics filled.
Mine just did that today. I'm hoping I have the same problem. Much less than a pump.
Once you pulled everything off the front of the machine with the pump still on and hooked up could you have greased the pump shaft
No. That grease zero is impossible to reach from the front with the pump installed.the only way to get to it is between the small opening between the radiator and engine.
It would not have helped us to grease it as the shaft splines were totally gone where they were inside of the coupling on the engine side. I greased the splined shaft and coupling prior to installing.
What was the cost doing it yourself
The splined coupling from “broken tractor”$69 + shipping and tax it was $89
engine side coupling (Amazon) link below so you can buy it $47 w/tax
filter from Napa $25?
new fluid $50 a bucket x2 = $100
Roughly $261 was spent for just this repair.
That doesn’t include the time and fuel to get hydraulic oil, filter, grease, nitrile gloves, paper towels.
We also had to torch the pin off the an outrigger while the fluid was drained down so we could have it rebuild with a new chrome rod. So our overall cost was higher.
JEENDA Hydraulic Pump Coupler... www.amazon.com/dp/B095WPXWWY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share