@@Ashby_Farms_NC I think he's talkinga about how many of us are looking to learn how to make them, not how to assemble them from precut. If you have a video on how to cut the frame components I think a lot of people would be interested.
I inherited an assortment of old well worn frames and tested them all for strength, It was obvious that I needed to buy a staple gun as staples are stronger than nails and much faster than glue however i admire your enthusiasm, keep up the good work.
Staple or nail is faster, but only serves to hold as a “clamp” while the glue dries. The glue does all the work when it comes to holding the frame pieces together.
For ergonomics, I recommend getting the glue bot or knockoff glue bottle. It has a few different tips, but it feeds from the bottom, so when you squeeze, it feeds effortlessly as liquids find their own level, so you are only usually applying minimal pressure, you don’t have to twist your wrist as much, there’s no tapping or anything. I have been running 2 in my shop for about a year (one for precision, one for bulk glue like laminations) and since titebond 2 is actually stronger and cheaper than 3, it would be my preferred option as well. Tb2 has to really be exposed to moisture for a while to deteriorate in my experience.
I really like the use of conduit for the holding bars! It has two advantages over wood: one you can slide the pieces in easier because of the curve and to it’s dead street which is always a problem with wood bars because they usually have a little bend in them and the uneven tension makes the pieces fall over while you’re trying to install them in the holder
Surprisingly, the plastic conduits have the same bend over time. However, they slide in/out easily....You can call it luck....I call it a happy accident!
Looks well done to me. Something for others to consider if using TB3 instead of a more traditional wood glue is that the open time is a lot shorter, so in hot weather it can be as short as 10 minutes before one starts to lose strength. TB2 is almost as weather resistant and has twice the open time, so if one is not as speedy as this fellow, consider that as a good alternative.
I like the extra finger in the bottom of the side bars, they're not available in Australia, will see if suppliers can oblige...after trying wood, wire and wax foundation, all plastic, wood and plastic foundation, my own preferred standard frame is wood and plastic with my own wax hot rolled onto the plastic, much stronger and way more robust than
wood wire and wax, much quicker to assemble. Great idea on the assembly box, will try a batch as pre assembled frames have too many fails due poor quality control.
The reason the nails offer no support, is because you put them in straight up and down. (Top Bar) They’re supposed to go through the sides to counter the pull of extracting them from the supers.
A well glued frame will be more durable than any method of mechanical fastening. If a person is not inclined to using glue, then yes, nail placement matters.
What would be the downside to placing the Acorn foundations in the grooves during assembly? Like setting them in place right before attaching the bottom bar?
Its not time efficient/effective. Often times the plastic inserts arent straight, but have a slight bow. You'd be fighting it about every 4th/5th frame. Its easier to do the same step repetitively at scale. I can pop in 100 inserts at 4-5 per min just before putting them in the hives.
Enjoying your channel - keep up the excellent work. I'm a new beekeeper looking to expand and have a question: what's your take on all plastic frames (Acorn?)? They seem much cheaper than wooden frames with plastic foundations, not to mention, you don't have to take the time and energy to assemble them. Curious to hear your thoughts.
Those look like Bailey Bee frames. I recently bought some from them and they are tight! I do like that but I'm not a fan of the way the bottom bar is built, but I suppose it really doesn't matter. I'm curious why you designed the jig for 21 frames and not 20. I do like the use of conduit over wood though. Also I heard that firing a horizontal nail/staple from the side bar at a slight angle up and into the top bar is the most important thing in building frames. Any frames prebuild I buy have that so I did it on ones I've made as well. I couldn't imagine making 5k frames let alone 20k.
Why are there holes drilled on the side pieces? I know they would be used to run wires thru for wax inserts but why drill them if you’re using the plastic inserts?
Goodday reader. The question of Randy Hahn "have you ever tried flipping evert other one for assembly"? and you're answer! What does he mean by that. Just clarify it for me please. Thank you,Cobus🐳
@@Ashby_Farms_NC l mostly just said that cuz I didn't have enough time to get wood glue 😂 I had to fix one frame already that broke, but I noticed the bees glued it together wasn't really my plan. I liked your video
For ergonomics, I recommend getting the glue bot or knockoff glue bottle. It has a few different tips, but it feeds from the bottom, so when you squeeze, it feeds effortlessly as liquids find their own level, so you are only usually applying minimal pressure, you don’t have to twist your wrist as much, there’s no tapping or anything. I have been running 2 in my shop for about a year (one for precision, one for bulk glue like laminations) and since titebond 2 is actually stronger and cheaper than 3, it would be my preferred option as well. Tb2 has to really be exposed to moisture for a while to deteriorate in my experience. You joke about the hearing protection, but ignore eye protection. Almost 92% of eye injuries are from mechanical means(not light/radiation/disease) and most of them happen at home and are preventable. In the agricultural sector, most of them occur from low branches surprisingly. Any ear protection helps, but eye protection is no joke. All you need is for a staple to blow the wood out one time and you’re blind in one eye and you have lost depth perception
Why are there holes drilled on the side pieces? I know they would be used to run wires thru for wax inserts but why drill them if you’re using the plastic inserts?
This video should have been called how I ensemble frames.
I’ll be making another one soon. Might consider this!
@@Ashby_Farms_NC I think he's talkinga about how many of us are looking to learn how to make them, not how to assemble them from precut. If you have a video on how to cut the frame components I think a lot of people would be interested.
I inherited an assortment of old well worn frames and tested them all for strength,
It was obvious that I needed to buy a staple gun as staples are stronger than nails and much faster than glue however i admire your enthusiasm, keep up the good work.
Staple or nail is faster, but only serves to hold as a “clamp” while the glue dries. The glue does all the work when it comes to holding the frame pieces together.
For ergonomics, I recommend getting the glue bot or knockoff glue bottle. It has a few different tips, but it feeds from the bottom, so when you squeeze, it feeds effortlessly as liquids find their own level, so you are only usually applying minimal pressure, you don’t have to twist your wrist as much, there’s no tapping or anything. I have been running 2 in my shop for about a year (one for precision, one for bulk glue like laminations) and since titebond 2 is actually stronger and cheaper than 3, it would be my preferred option as well. Tb2 has to really be exposed to moisture for a while to deteriorate in my experience.
Thanks
Just discovered your channel. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Well son of a gun. 🤦♂️🤦♂️ I feel so dumb for building mine one at a time!!! Haha, thanks for the idea and video!!!
I second that .......ugghhh
Same here! Bet I don't do it one at a time anymore!
I really like the use of conduit for the holding bars! It has two advantages over wood: one you can slide the pieces in easier because of the curve and to it’s dead street which is always a problem with wood bars because they usually have a little bend in them and the uneven tension makes the pieces fall over while you’re trying to install them in the holder
Surprisingly, the plastic conduits have the same bend over time. However, they slide in/out easily....You can call it luck....I call it a happy accident!
Great instructions!!
Glad it was helpful!
Well done! Great video!
Thank you!
Looks well done to me. Something for others to consider if using TB3 instead of a more traditional wood glue is that the open time is a lot shorter, so in hot weather it can be as short as 10 minutes before one starts to lose strength. TB2 is almost as weather resistant and has twice the open time, so if one is not as speedy as this fellow, consider that as a good alternative.
Great advice!!!
TY for your expertise!
Glad to help!
Thank you. Now I know to get jiggy with it (with a jig)
Lol
I like the extra finger in the bottom of the side bars, they're not available in Australia, will see if suppliers can oblige...after trying wood, wire and wax foundation, all plastic, wood and plastic foundation, my own preferred standard frame is wood and plastic with my own wax hot rolled onto the plastic, much stronger and way more robust than
wood wire and wax, much quicker to assemble. Great idea on the assembly box, will try a batch as pre assembled frames have too many fails due poor quality control.
The reason the nails offer no support, is because you put them in straight up and down. (Top Bar) They’re supposed to go through the sides to counter the pull of extracting them from the supers.
Haven’t considered doing it that way. Thanks!
A well glued frame will be more durable than any method of mechanical fastening. If a person is not inclined to using glue, then yes, nail placement matters.
Those thin nails cant hold a good hive tool pull. Still the glue is doing the work.
Nice job man
Thanks!
Very impressive...❤
Thanks for watching
@@Ashby_Farms_NC my pleasure 🙏
I put two extra staples in mine. One at the top of each end bar going in laterally into the top bar.
Love your videos. Please keep them coming.
Thanks for your kind words!
What would be the downside to placing the Acorn foundations in the grooves during assembly? Like setting them in place right before attaching the bottom bar?
Its not time efficient/effective. Often times the plastic inserts arent straight, but have a slight bow. You'd be fighting it about every 4th/5th frame. Its easier to do the same step repetitively at scale. I can pop in 100 inserts at 4-5 per min just before putting them in the hives.
Enjoying your channel - keep up the excellent work. I'm a new beekeeper looking to expand and have a question: what's your take on all plastic frames (Acorn?)? They seem much cheaper than wooden frames with plastic foundations, not to mention, you don't have to take the time and energy to assemble them. Curious to hear your thoughts.
They twist and warp, and are a pain to run through an extractor
Thanks I have a frame jig that I purchased but do not like it . I think your design will be my next jig . Good luck an thanks for the info. THANKS
Absolutely!
nice content subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
@@Ashby_Farms_NC u r welcome :)
Good job I learn
Glad to help
Those look like Bailey Bee frames. I recently bought some from them and they are tight! I do like that but I'm not a fan of the way the bottom bar is built, but I suppose it really doesn't matter. I'm curious why you designed the jig for 21 frames and not 20. I do like the use of conduit over wood though. Also I heard that firing a horizontal nail/staple from the side bar at a slight angle up and into the top bar is the most important thing in building frames. Any frames prebuild I buy have that so I did it on ones I've made as well. I couldn't imagine making 5k frames let alone 20k.
That side nail comes from an automated frame builder. It’s not necessary. No particular reason about the 21 frames. Just extra wood laying around.
Why are there holes drilled on the side pieces? I know they would be used to run wires thru for wax inserts but why drill them if you’re using the plastic inserts?
The company I buy from does it
Do you make the frames out of raw materials or only together?.
I like the assembly system.
I buy unassembled frame pieces by the pallet(s) load and assemble them myself
What is the power rating of your compressor please, live in the UK and unable to find the model you are using. Thank you.
I upgraded to a 25 gal quiet Kobalt brand. Don’t know the power but it’s 120v
Thank you@@Ashby_Farms_NC
Impressive. Have you tried putting in the foundation while assembling the frame?
That would be a nightmare. I’ve got kids to help with popping in inserts
Don you buy your frames precut or are you manufacturing the pieces too?
No we order frames by the pallet. 5k frames is 20k pieces. So glad I don’t have to cut all those too!
Great video, out of curiosity, who is the manufacturer of those frames?
Beeline Bee supply. Gotta buy in bulk though to make shipping worth it!
Would love if you had a list of products and links in the description.
We order by the pallet load. I’d advise head to your local bee supply store.
@@Ashby_Farms_NC Haha, we live by a town with population 361. There is no local bee store lol. Thanks though!
have you ever tried flipping evert other one for assembly?
No, extraction would be a pain
Great video! How the hell do you work a day job? Sounds like you have enough bees to keep you busy 😊
We’re a little busy!
And he makes CZcams Videos for us 😮
Do you make the frames members or buy them and then assemble them?
I buy the pieces and assemble them myself
Hello, do you attach the frames with staples or nails?
1/4” crown staples
Did you make the side and bottom of the frame with the little slits in them?
Nope they come that way
@@Ashby_Farms_NC where can I order them at?
❤
Thanks!
Where is your country with many beautiful farms?
What?
Muito bom teus quadros de abelha eu sou Apicultor aqui no Brasil
Fantastic!
Where do you buy your frames?
Beeline by the pallet load
Where do you get your parts??
Beeline by the pallet shipped freight
TY
Your welcome
building and assembling different
Where do you buy the unassembled frames from?
By the pallet 5,000 at a time. Company in Michigan.
@@Ashby_Farms_NC what is the company. I can’t find these anywhere. Maybe I’m not searching the right words
@@bradleyadams7957 Beeline Bee Supply
I believe they're in Mendon, MI, correct?
can you tell me , what's your staple gun name , please ?
1/4" Narrow Crown Pneumatic Stapler. I use a Hitachi brand but any manufacturer will do.
@@Ashby_Farms_NC It's very nice, have a beautiful design , in Europe we haven't this kind . Very nice your job ! Thank you !
hosw much dose it cost to make a full hive?
A lot! Depend on your goals. I advise people start with 4 hives and that’ll run you about $2K
@@Ashby_Farms_NC Anhan got it. Thanks Alot !
Where do you get the frame components?
Order by the pallet from Beeline
Fan of Mike Rowe huh? :) Safety Third.
Definitely!
Goodday reader. The question of Randy Hahn "have you ever tried flipping evert other one for assembly"?
and you're answer! What does he mean by that. Just clarify it for me please. Thank you,Cobus🐳
Flipping every other frame would be a pain to remove them from the jig. The current way allows for removal of all of the frame at once from one side
Thank you sir. Have a blessed day. Cobus🐳
Randy, what the type e wood do you use? I’m very I’m pressed with you design. Thanks 😊
That’s a serious amount
Oh yeah!
I just let the bees glue the frames together for me.
They’ll glue them in addition to what I do, and the frames still come apart sometimes
@@Ashby_Farms_NC l mostly just said that cuz I didn't have enough time to get wood glue 😂 I had to fix one frame already that broke, but I noticed the bees glued it together wasn't really my plan. I liked your video
shouldn't be making frames, they are already made, just have to be glued together, which is simple, making them is a little more work.
We order the pieces by the pallet
@@Ashby_Farms_NC still you just assemble them, not make them, head line say making frames, it's a got Tcha title
Where do get your frame materials from? And do you get them in bulk?
Yes we buy them by the pallet from Beeline
For ergonomics, I recommend getting the glue bot or knockoff glue bottle. It has a few different tips, but it feeds from the bottom, so when you squeeze, it feeds effortlessly as liquids find their own level, so you are only usually applying minimal pressure, you don’t have to twist your wrist as much, there’s no tapping or anything. I have been running 2 in my shop for about a year (one for precision, one for bulk glue like laminations) and since titebond 2 is actually stronger and cheaper than 3, it would be my preferred option as well. Tb2 has to really be exposed to moisture for a while to deteriorate in my experience.
You joke about the hearing protection, but ignore eye protection. Almost 92% of eye injuries are from mechanical means(not light/radiation/disease) and most of them happen at home and are preventable. In the agricultural sector, most of them occur from low branches surprisingly. Any ear protection helps, but eye protection is no joke. All you need is for a staple to blow the wood out one time and you’re blind in one eye and you have lost depth perception
Thanks
Why are there holes drilled on the side pieces? I know they would be used to run wires thru for wax inserts but why drill them if you’re using the plastic inserts?
The company I buy from does it