Kingfly RC ORV Chassis Unbox and Install
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2023
- The Kingfly RC aluminum ORV chassis arrived, and it's TRULY a thing of beauty! In this video, it's unboxed, and installed on my Tamiya Monster Beetle Basher.
Be sure to scope out eBay and support Oliver, and his Kingfly RC brand!
www.ebay.com/itm/285076902400...
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...
www.ebay.com/str/jveshop - Zábava
You can also add spacers under the shock piston to shorten the shock travel. This is what most do to stop dog-bone loss.
Totally did that and it worked great!
That chassis is a work of art. Its main performance enhancement is in your head: it makes you produce more endorphins while you drive ending up with a bigger smile and more fun! Thanks for the video.
Haha well said, pal! It really is a thing of beauty! 🤩
Can you not just drop some spacers in the shocks to stop the dampers travelling so far?
I definitely can, I will likely go this way, as it's much cleaner looking. 🍻
Was my first thought. Would be interesting to know if it works.
That's an awesome chassis. That black will look nice underneath the red body. Excellent video Fil!
Yeah buddy, it sure does look mean! Now today is the test drive day! Woo hoo! 🍻
Excellent video. The chassis looks good. I think you're right about drilling some holes further along for the rear shocks to eliminate the excessive droop. Enjoy your weekend Phil 🙂👍🏼
Thanks for watching, Derek. Hope you have a great weekend as well! 👊
Wow! I did not know there was an aluminum chassis out there for the ORV. That’s awesome!
It's pretty awesome! 😍
That's an awesome looking chassis. I hope it's as awesome as it looks too! Ought to be fun to bash!
Thanks for watching, Cooper. Today is the test run day, fingers crossed! 👊
The Hot Trick Red Prince chassis had the same issue with the rear arms. Install a screw in the extra hole on the outside rear arm pivot, then trim the stop on the arm to limit rear travel. Limiting shock extension would work too.
I'll give that a try, thanks for the tip! 🤙
Put spacers under the piston in the shock to limit suspension droop.
Done and done.
What a fantastic chassis Fil. When I win the lottery this is the first thing I'm going to buy. Great stuff buddy. ATB and stay safe fella.
It's even better when I hold it the correct way! Lol! Thanks for watching, Rob! Have a great day, mate! 🍻
Fit internal spacers on the piston shaft to reduce the overall eye to eye length of the shock absorbers..
Absolutely! Thanks for the tip! 🤙
The stock plastic chassis has tabs that stop the arms drooping quite as far as the metal chassis
After reducing the droop in the rear shocks, it feels so good! Really well planted! 🍻
I dunno how I missed this and the running video. But watching now
Haha some of them sneak by. Dang that YT algorithm! 🤣
You Macgyver that suspension dude!
Haha thanks pal! Gotta make it work, right?!?! 😁
With your dampers maybe you could use spacers inside the dampers that would limit the travel of the piston.
just a thought!!
Absolutely! That's what I did and it works great now. 👍🏻
OH BABY! YES!
Hahaha cheers pal! 🍻
i would put a spacer inside the shock, to prevent it from extend too much
That's exactly what I did, and it works great!
Another way to limit the shocks that might be a little cleaner and more permanent solution is to make up some limiter straps the length you need and mount them to the back side of the shock mounts on the chassis and trailing arm so that the strap parallels the length of the shock between the mount and the chassis.
That's not a bad idea... Back to the drawing board. 😁
Maybe spacers inside shock bodies? Their shocks they sell must be shorter is what I am thinking! Excellent video bro💯
Thanks for watching, Wayne. Yeah I shortened up the shocks and ran the truck this weekend. Zero dogbone pop-outs! Woo hoo! 🍻
I think it’s time for a 4 wheel drive lunchbox. Or Blackfoot. It’s my next project 😊😊😊
I've had a few viewers ask me if I've ever seen a 4WD Lunchie, and unfortunately, I haven't. If you do complete this super sweet mission, email me pics, would ya? I'd love to see how you do it! Poorboysrc78@gmail.com 👊🏼
I have a metal chassis on my Sand Viper. No performance upgrade, but it's cool as hell.
They are definitely 10/10 on the coolness factor! 😉
Nice vid!
Besides the "dogbone situation", the honest guide reviews on aftermarket parts could be a thing for your channel after all, cause we crave for some of those products and it is very informative when someone shows them as you do.
Keep the good work. Cheers from Chile!
Thanks for the great comment, Ian. In the case of this review, I'm fortunate, in that the designer of the chassis INSISTED I reveal any potential weak spots or issues with his designs. He's a really great guy, and I appreciate the fact that he wants honest reviews. I'll stand behind guys Luke this all day! Cheers! 🍻
Excellent chassis upgrade Fil!
I LOVE the ORV..... have 5 in total (restored vintage beetle, restored vintage mud blaster, re re blackfoot, re re monster beetle and a heavily modified beetle that's my go to runner.)
This chassis gets a lot of hate, but once it's issues are rectified it is a very tough, great handling fun rig!
On my runner I also have the super stock bz motor and MIP ball diff (which is essential!), upgraded Alluminium shocks, working lights, alloy steering servo saver etc etc.
And, like you so rightly said-
On 2s with that superstock it's an absolute animal!
After trying many different ways to stop it chucking out drive shafts, or even having them splitting through the rubber gators I simply mounted a small nut on the underside of the chassis where the trailing arms make contact on each side. This effectively slightly reduces the travel of the rear arms when fully released.
It works a treat and hasn't spat a dogbone out ever again since!
Trust me, it works a treat, and gives the rear end a slightly lower stance which actually improves the handling.
Anyway bud, great video, I will definitely be looking into one of these chassis, as well as some of those other upgrades!
Keep up the great content mate.
👍 👍 👍 👍
Ah, very interesting. It's so cool how many people have come up with different mods to keep the dogbones in. I ended up shortening my rear shocks with a little fuel tubing. Like yours, with the lower ride height, it's a little more stable now. The BZ and 2S really get this buggy moving, so a little lower COG helps keep the rubber side down! 🍻
@@poorboysrc
Most excellent fella, glad that you have rectified the issue!
Shame on Tamiya for not sorting these issues before re releasing, especially as this platform has been used on multiple re re's.
The original hex shafts popping out was a common issue with my OG blackfoot back in 88,as was the gear casing flex, resulting in that awful clicking and eventual bevel gear destruction!
Both of these problems could have been resolved without having to change any of the fundamental design elements or moldings of the car.
Many of their re releases have had slight tweeks and weak areas improved, just a pity they neglected this platform.
Still, like you say - everyone has came up with their own solutions, which is all part the fun eh dude?
Would love to see a video of your bug running on that new chassis, think that would make great content for sure! 👍 👍 👍 👍
@@yodadarksideGreenHawksRC agreed, a little chapped that Tamiya didn't sort out the clicking diff and the dogbones. Well, CVD's, because if I remember correctly, the rere MB came with CVD's, which were worse for popping out than the dogbones! Lol! -- I'm editing the running video as we speak! I'll have it set to air this Saturday at 12:00 a.m. PST! 👊
@@poorboysrc
Yes mate, the re re cvd's are certainly more prone to escaping in comparison to the hex dogbones in the originals(which used to strip big time!)
Ah cool, looking forward to seeing the running video.... Cheers mate! 🙏
👍 👍 👍 👍
@@yodadarksideGreenHawksRC Just finished editing... :)
Love it
Cheers pal! 🍻
Awesome content! You have a new sub! 👍
Wicked! Thanks for coming on board, Terence! 🍻
G'day mate wow the orv chassis looks great love your cat trying to get in all the shots can't let my cat in my rc room walks over the top they chews parts off bad cat lucky to be alive lol. Wasn't going to say anything about you holding it upside down I knew you'd work it out build time. Love your video's mate and Oliva chassis are are the ducks nuts that's Australia for very nice mate 👍👍
The ducks nuts, yes! I'm gonna use that one! Haha! Thanks again for watching, mate! Cheers! 🍻
Wish I had seen this BEFORE I built my frog.
Got a craving for an aluminum chassis now??? 😋
@@poorboysrc yeah
brotha just put spacers inside the shocks to limit the travel, works great!!
I was being suuuuper lazy and didn't feel like taking my shocks apart, lol! 🤦
Hey that's really cool. With the rear suspension droop, on the original plastic chassis the suspension is limited by a part of the arm hitting a part of the chassis rather than the length of the shocks. What I did was to put extra screws in the chassis to limit the movement further. Difficult to describe but I show it in my video "Tamiya ORV Blackfoot Review and Mods. ORV Chassis Problems and Issues". I'm not sure if it's possible to do such a mod to that metal chassis. If not then it would put me off buying it. Also the body posts are a major weak point so they could do with a mod also. Otherwise, looks great 👍
Hey Pete, thanks for the great comment! I'll check out your video and see how you fixed the rear axle droop. I've got to do the same thing to my Blackfoot rere. 🍻
Just going to echo the rest of the comments. I go to the hardware store and pick up some soft fuel hose for small engines like weedwackers. Cut to length and slip over the shock rod internally. It's a softer stop than spacers and being for fuel it holds up to oil.
I think I might still have some nitro fuel tubing kicking around from my Losi LST2 XXL, lol! That should work. 🍻
I love it! My only gripe is when you go to the music it's just way too loud continuously putting the volume up and down up and down up and down
I've heard that a few times now. When editing it seems good, but apparently not good when viewers are watching. I'm toning it down in my next vid. Appreciate the feedback bro! 👊
Awesome chassis looks killer!
Spacers on the shocks shafts works well to reduce travel but I think a few have said this already probably!
Smart looking gear though Fil but will confess I'll be leaving mine standard as way too much for me being a tamiya royalist lol..
Cheers buddy.
That's the beauty of the hobby, build the car to suit your style. :)
@@poorboysrc Yeah its a hobby that has such diversity!
Keep up the great content buddy.
@@mad-beerc3818 absolutely! Some of my collection will remain stock, box art, forever. And others will get modded to the moon. One of the best parts of RC, it's all good! Cheers buddy! 🍻
Why not use a smaller suspension to solve the drooping problem?
I could definitely do that, but I wanted to retain the factory shocks, so.i put some o-rings inside to reduce the travel and it worked great! 💪
I didn't know that about the dog bones dropping out I'm going to look in to that is it only on the big wheel monster trucks not the frog
Yeah it's the rere ORV's with big tires that have the issue. It's a thing. Super annoying! The Frog dogbones are a little longer, so they're actually an improvement over the CVD's that the BF and MB came with. 🤦
Add spacers inside the rear shocks.
You betcha! 👊
Use some fuel tube to internally limit the shocks
Good call, I might try going that route! 🍻
Used to be aluminum parts were changed for nylon for the weight benefits. How much much does this chassis weigh?
I don't have a scale to weigh it on, otherwise I would have earlier. It's definitely heavier than stock, but on this platform, I think that's a good thing. The unsprung weight helps the suspension work a little better and the MB feels more solid and planted than ever before.
@@poorboysrc "More road hugging weight" as they said in the olden days. Low weight I suppose ultimately makes things faster, but not necessarily easier nor funner to drive.
All those option parts available and nothing that addresses the fundamental weakness of the vehicle which is the gearbox. They should definitely consider making some heavy duty gearbox side plates that prevent the diff from spreading/striping
Fair statement, perhaps after reading your comment, they will. I'm sure they'd sell very well. 🍻
@@poorboysrc ya im sure heavy duty side plates would sell great if they could keep the price down! Right now the only out of the box solution is the $80 MIP diff.
@@Norcopunk I've heard of a guy that made carbon Fibre diff plates, but I've never actually seen them. How cool would that be??? 😎
I think if it’s a light as you say and with all the other mods you have on it then it has to make a difference and having the steering servo central to the who chassis again must make a small difference🤷♂️
After a bit of testing I can say that the steering geometry was greatly improved. Had a fun blast on the beach yesterday with it, I'll have the running video set for next Saturday. 🍻
I'm not sure but it looks like maybe the front of the rear suspension mounts might be on the wrong way round, not teaching you to suck eggs but that is what I think the over droop might be happening
I'll take a closer look. Cheers pal! 🍻
Do they make aluminum parts for Tamiya boomerang
Not that I know of. What is it you're looking for, specifically?
Very cool good Job poor boy😂
Thanks dude! 🍻
are the rear front shock mounts installed the right way
Yeah they're part of the chassis, actually. So there's only one way to install them. 🤔
Oh ok. Kinda looked like they could be installed two different ways.
Use shorter shocks?
It's definitely an option. I really wanted to stick with the stock MB shocks, but I might have to make a change. 👊
nice video liked it a lot but the extremly load shreeky music had me turning the volume down and then had to turn it back up to hear what u are saying the whole time
Dang, sorry to hear that pal. Appreciate the feedback, I'm taking steps to dial in better audio. 👍🏻
You should weigh the basic kit before you strip and change the chassis then weigh the finished project and compare
Yeah I really should have. I just don't have one of those little scales, otherwise I would have. 🍻👊🏼
I was so exited when i first saw this on Ebay, only to find out It doesnt work in all orv models, at least It doesnt work on my King Blackfoot, such a shame, as I run It with an 80a esc, and a 3660 3500kv motor, It would have been great!!! P.S. the solution Is to fit smaller shocks on the rear
Is that right, hey? What is it about the Kingfly chassis that doesn't work with the King Blackfoot?
@@poorboysrc they Made It so It can only work with horizontal shocks on the rear, the King Blackfoot uses vertical ones 😢
@@lael1236 oh dang, I wonder if there's a way you could retrofit the rear shock tower to the Kingfly chassis?
@@poorboysrc by the looks of It I dont think so, maybe if I were to get one and try and do some testing but I dont have the money right now to take that risk, so at the moment I wont spend, perhaps later on 🤷
@@lael1236 makes sense to me. I bet you could email the seller on ebay and ask them if they can confirm whether you can make it work or not?
That fingernail is looking better! Must have running video !
It's so gross! Lol! -- Working on the running video today. 🍻
It's called mechanical speedcontroller, not manual!
Roger that. 👊
FIRST,, 🎉. cooles Vid
Congrats! Haha! 🍻
The constant change in loudness gets annoying quite quickly. Especially when using headphones. 😵💫
Appreciate the feedback, I've never listened to my own show with headphones on, I'll give it a whirl and see if I can modify things a bit.