Alex Honnold Breaks Down His 5.15 Training Routine
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- čas přidán 18. 04. 2023
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What's your training program?: Alex: I Climb. What's your workout after you climb?: Alex: Oh, I climb. How do keep a healthy relationship?: Alex: I climb
Oh man "when you want to improve work on your weaknesses and I work on my weaknesses most of the year, and when I want to perform I play to my strengths". This is an incredible advice not only applicable to sports but anything in life really. It works in all areas of life. That is wisdom.
Alex has such a great attitude about progress and achievement, and I think it's what I love about climbing in general. I started climbing regularly at 40, and in my first year struggled sending 5.10a on top rope. Now I'm 44 and working on ~5.12b/c on lead. I doubt I ever approach 5.14 (started too late in life to achieve the necessary finger strength), but I sincerely believe I'll send a 5.13a one day, just through constant, slow progress on technique and strength.
@@thestruggleclimbingshow You never know! If not, I'll be happy enough just to keep enjoying it for years to come. The first outdoor trip of the year with a big crew of fellow middle-aged weekend warriors is coming up in 2 weeks!
So exciting to hear about your progress! I’m 41 now and have been climbing regularly once a week for almost a year now. Slowly improving from 5.9 to 5.10b. Have my eyes set on a 5.11a crag. Hopefully soon! But just so proud of myself to go from 0hr working out anywhere for many years to being active on a regular basis and having so much fun doing it. 😊 So glad I’ve found something I will love doing for many many years to come!
@@saisaivipa Welcome to the club! The best thing for me after year 1 was to start climbing regularly (2-3x/week) with stronger, more experienced climbers who forced me out of my comfort zone. The strength and fitness will come, but technique gains come mostly as they're required to push your grade. For me the necessity of great footwork, keeping hips close to the wall, climbing overhangs, etc. didn't really "click" until I got into the mid-high 5.11s, where efficiency becomes necessary rather than just useful. When you have strong partners you can see how things are done, model your beta on others' success, and good technique will become ingrained. At my current level/plateau, I'm finding I need to develop more fitness (core strength, finger strength, stamina, etc.) to do what I need - just keep pushing through!
My fellow aging bros: I started at 52, and can now lead up to 10a on sport. I'd be happy if I could make it to 11a on sport outside!
@@samirchopra1 Go get it Samir!
If Honnold dropped a video of him sending Jumbo Love I'd be more stoked than I've been for any single film, album, or piece of content in a decade.
Was randomly suggested this video, and in my own life I have been training to lead harder climbs (for me 5.12d-5.13a) so the content was super insightful. The thing that was funny was that years ago I religiously watched Are you the One? and seeing Ryan involved in climbing now as a passion genuinely made me burst out laughing. A very pleasant surprise!
Train aka feed that addiction . Gotta love this guy. he’s amazing
I want to reach V15/8C before my 50s, with exactly this thought process. Slow and steady, one grade a year, or even every other year. Currently 29 yo, on V3 outdoors. I was inspired by Akira Waku.
Expect not to grow a grade per year expect to grow multiple grades in the next few years and then prepare for the long slog of v10-v15
Yeah difficulty gets exponentially harder. It’ll take twice as long to get v11 as it did to get v10 etc etc. also don’t worry too much about the grades! The most important thing is you go home stronger and with better beta. The grade you did or didn’t climb that day is much less important (:
Loved the podcast but having the visual CZcams part is amazing! Keep it up Ryan
the thumbnail is hilarious and I dig the DJ hon-solo one ear Headphone style
Insanely good video from such a small channel. Subscribed.
This podcast seems fun, great questions.
Great interview, thanks!
This is SO RAD👏💚
do the thing you like doing❤️
Nice way to live
Wow, 1.7k likes and 0 dislikes. Much deserved!
Thanks! Working hard over here to make helpful and entertaining content on the pod and YT 🤘
I climb 5.16d
he is a god and he don't no it he to Hubble
@@Jacob0481 I believe it was:
"He is a god and he doesn't know it. He's too humble."
Jesus loves you ❣️ great interview
Even one grade a year is not easy
Well if I climb for the next 30 years I’ll be climbing v40 😀
Interesting that honnold said that connective tissue takes a long time to adapt. Hoopers beta actually has a video (I think a recent one) where they mention that this is actually a common misconception and that it can actually take as little as 2-4 weeks to notice significant strength gains
🙄
I don't think honnold has done research on the topic tbh
Depends on the adaptation, the same as with muscles. We can make rather compliant tendons rather stiff in only a few weeks, but recovery rates for connective tissue, especially the fingers, is greatly reduced. Does not take years, as goes the misconception, but does significantly lag behind motor units themselves. There also seems to be less we can do to alter this, basically loading at most every six hours and consuming significant quantities of certain amino acids.
You can make small incremental improvements in tendon strength quickly, but I think he is referring to like end game finger strength/tendon strength. Yea you can put 10 pounds on ur max hang on 20mm fast, but you won't be doing bw monos fast.
Having had at nearly 70 yrs of age multiple injuries and surgeries: I can confirm from experience and multiple orthopedic surgeons and people with Doctorates in PT; that it takes longer for tendons; ligament; and cartilage to recover and get to maximin strength. And all you have to do is look at professional sports to confirm this; the return time from a muscle tear is much quicker than a tendon tear of equal percentage.
Tommy Caldwell's Achilles injury was reinjured because his muscles allowed him to do things his tendon was not ready for; that is what most people mean when they say your tendons are not ready to do what your muscles allow you to do; and especially in people who are good at recruiting strength to the maximum.
For me genetically I was born with incredibly strong hands, for instance I'm only 2.5 years into climbing and I sent my first v8 with a dyno beta break, as well as half crimped 220lbs on 28mm. I realized when I started climbing I was significantly stronger then most and even people who climbed higher grades then me. So I focused on footwork an quickly started getting v6 flash and single session v7s. I found I like to boulder for explosive power and rope for food work. At this point I'm usually able to flash 12a-c.
Wasn’t even humble about it 💀
Those are rookie numbers in this racket
nOiCe
Hi
Wisdoms
seeing alex in a suit is so weird
😂
Someone should stop this man obviusly he has a death wish its not fun any more what he is gona do this till he falls put him in jail or lunny bin and stop him
why does he make it seem like as long as you train hard enough you can do anything lol
a large majority of people on this planet will never be able to even touch 9a no matter how hard they train
remember, adam ondra onsighted 7b+ at the age of 7, a 7 year old cant train on a campus board or something like that he is just build different
But in climbing you can make progress long after you can in most sports. Lots of climbers do their hardest climbing decades after taking up climbing.
@@craigbritton1089 what ?
@@rdtarcade7644 I know people who climbed 5.9/10 in the 60s who decades later climbed 12s and 13s.
I knew people who climbed 5.7 in their youth; who decades later in their late 60s climbed 5.10/11.
For my 60th birthday I climbed 6000 ft of climbing; one teenager did a vertical mile; in third place was a guy turning 80 that year; and no one else accomplished an El Cap day. Including multiple younger climbers; many of whom could boulder above V10/ lead 12/13.
So there are multiple ways one can get better.
@@craigbritton1089 That's good to know. Maybe I can spend the next 20 years going from 5.10 to 5.13.
the issue is limiting yourself; would not disagree that unless you have above average genetics for climbing or started sufficiently early then 9a may be out of reach, but I think enough time for enough dedication can see a climber to 14a or 8A. However, climbing is a much longer game than many folks realize, and consistent progress without injury will usually see climbers progress further than they thought.
He does not need to do 5.15 when he is the only human to free solo El Cap and HD. Alex is the only one to free solo 5.13. Alex has forever made roped climbing boring. Sharma and Ondra no longer impress me because no matter how hard the route a rope removes all the risk.
Does it though? Id argue E10 trad is riskier than most of Honnold's free solos
Sorry, Your Dudeness, but free-soloing translates to instant unavoidable death should one fall. Sharma and Ondra might be pushing the hardest routes but they are FULLY PROTECTED by ropes, bolts, etc. I did a few free solos in my youth (when Alex was in diapers) none of which was above 5.9 but the exposure was radical so had I blown a sequence I would have taken a screamer and been a flaming grease spot on the talus. Once you climb sans protection (and I'm not referring to bouldering with pads under your ass) the mental aspect soars into the stratosphere. Only free soloists understand that.
are you climbing? or doing any sport? doing literally anything without improving long term is really difficult and unmotivating. He's planning on climbing for the next 30 years, ofc he is expecting improvement. Imagine doing something for 30 years and not improving, that would be devastating.